DE19523596A1 - Preparation for the treatment of keratinic fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparations used for treating keratin fibres such as human hair and containing a combination of active substances comprising an anionic homopolymer A and an anionic copolymer B with at least one non-ionogenic co-monomer, have fixing properties. They can be used in the formulation of hair conditioners with pronounced fixing properties and containing none of the standard fixing agents.

Description

The invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations containing a special solidifying active ingredient combination included.

The human hair is used in many ways with hair thickening treated table preparations. This includes, for example, the cleaning the hair with shampoos and shower preparations and the bleaching, dyeing and Deforming hair with waving, toning and styling preparations As a result of almost all hair treatments, it may cause undesirable effects pregnancies of the hair structure. These impairments show For example, in a poor wet and dry combability, a increased electrostatic charge, increased brittleness or un sufficient strength of the hair and in more serious cases in split th, d. H. split hair (end). This deteriorates in many cases also the external appearance of the hairstyle.

A well-known way to mitigate maladministration is the hair a post-treatment with appropriate active ingredients, mostly cationic Surfactants, which are optionally combined with other substances to undergo. An insufficient strength of the hair, for example counteracted with special hair fixatives or hair sprays.

However, it is the hair cosmetic's endeavor to provide such additional treatment avoid steps and instead provide products that Both the actual hair treatment and the aftertreatment in one Perform application step. Furthermore, the cosmetic chemist strives new effects of known cosmetic ingredients, for example synergisti effects of several known components to find and for the To harness application.  

It has now surprisingly been found that preparations with a Combination of certain anionic polymers that do not have hairfastness or only slightly strengthening properties have a To achieve a strong firming effect on the hair.

The invention thus provides preparations for the treatment of kerati nischer fibers, especially human hair, which is a Wirkstoffkombi nation consisting of

• an anionic homopolymer A and
• an anionic copolymer B with at least one nonionic Co-monomer

contain.

The anionic homopolymers are preferably made of an unsaturated C3-C6 carboxylic acid built up. Preferred C3-C6-carboxylic acids are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid. The methacrylic acid and in particular the acrylic acid are very particularly preferred monomers for the anionic Homopolymers.

The homopolymers A can be both uncrosslinked and in crosslinked ter form can be used. Crosslinked polymers are understood in In this context, the reaction products of polymeric polycarboxylic acids with polyhydric alcohols in which a part of the carboxyl groups with reacting these alcohols to form ester bonds. As part of In the present invention, it may be preferable to use the homopolymers A in FIG use crosslinked form.

Furthermore, the anionic homopolymers, in crosslinked and in unver present in the latter form, both in the free acid form as well as in whole or partially neutralized form. For neutralization can customary bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, in particular Na triumhydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, Isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propane diol and 2-aminobutanol are used. Sodium hydroxide, ammonia, 2-  Amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred te neutralizing agent. The neutralization can according to the invention both with a base as well as with a base mixture. When choosing a Base mixture may be preferred, a mixture of ammonia and the to use the above-mentioned alkanolamines.

Compounds of this type are, for example, under the names Carbo pol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940 (Carbopol ETD 2001), Carbopol 941 (Carbopol® ETD 2050), Carbopol® 950, Carbopol® g80, Carbopol® 981, Carbopol® ETD 2020, Hostacerin®PN 73 and 3V Sigma PNC® 400 available.

The homopolymers A are preferred in the preparations according to the invention in an amount of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, contain. Levels of 0.4-5% by weight have proven to be particularly effective proved.

Another obligatory constituent of the preparations according to the invention is an anionic copolymer B. These copolymers are at least ei anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer built.

The anionic monomer of the copolymers contains as anionic group be preferably a -COO⁻- or -SO₃⁻ group.

Preferred anionic monomers having a -COO⁻ group are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acrylamido (C 1 -C 4) alkylcarboxylic acids, maleic acid and maleic mono (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl esters and their physiologically ver suitable salts. Among the physiologically acceptable salts are the Alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, ammonium and Alkanolammonium salts, in particular sodium, potassium and magnesium salts and ammonium salts, preferred.

Preferred anionic monomers having an -SO₃⁻ group are the Acrylami do- (C1-4) alkylsulfonic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts. Among the physiologically acceptable salts are the alkali metal salts,  Alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, ammonium and alkanolammonium salts, in particular the sodium, potassium and magnesium salts and ammonium salts, prefers.

The acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid and its salts are particularly preferred anionic monomers for the anionic copolymers B.

Furthermore, the anionic copolymer B contains at least one nonionic Co-monomer. Preferred nonionic comonomers are acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylic acid (C1-C4) alkyl esters, vinyl alcohol and Vinyl alcohol (C1-C4) -alkyl. Acrylamide is a particularly preferred one nonionic co-monomer.

The copolymers B used according to the invention preferably contain at least one at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 70% by weight, of nonionic mono mers.

Common commercial products used as copolymer B according to the invention can be, for example

• - Copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid or esters thereof with C _10-30 alkyl acrylates, such as those sold under the name Pemulen®.
• Polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of Acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers. Connections of this kind are under the brand names Resyn® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset® (BASF) and Gafset® (GAF) in commerce; the products Luviset®CA-66 and Luviset®CAP may be particularly preferred.
• Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, available, for example under the trademark Luviflex® (BASF). A preferred polymer is the vinyl available under the name Luviflex® VBM-35 (BASF) pyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.  
• - Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers, which For example, sold under the name Ultrahold® strong (BASF) as well as methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / t-butyl acrylate terpolymer, which are sold under the name Luvimer® 100P (BASF).

As according to the invention have very particularly suitable copolymers B er meadows that consist of

• 40-95 mol% acrylamide,
• - 5-60 mol% acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt of this acid and
• 0-55 mol% of further anionic and / or nonionic Monomers.

Among these polymers, those may be particularly preferred which

• 80-95 mol% acrylamide,
• - 5-20 mol% acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt of this acid and
• 0-15 mol% of further anionic and / or nonionic Monomers.

Copolymers consisting only of the two monomers acrylamide and acrylic amido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically acceptable Salt of this acid, have in many cases as ge is proven.

Such a polymer in the form of the sodium salt is used as a compound with iso paraffin and an ethoxylated fatty alcohol, from the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel® 305 distributed.

The copolymers B are preferred in the preparations according to the invention in Amounts of 0.1-2 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.3-2 wt .-%, be attracted to the whole preparation, included.

In a preferred embodiment, the erfindungsge proper preparation to a hair treatment agent. The other ingredients  the preparation according to the invention are then of the type of hair hand depending on the agent. In this case, the Wirkstoffkombina invention tion an essential principle of action of the special hair treatment agent his; but the active ingredient combination can also be incorporated into agents who that, primarily for a different purpose, such as cleaning or the Tint of hair, serve.

In principle, however, the formulations according to the invention comprise all be knew types of hair treatment agents such. Hair shampoos, hairspun lungs, hair conditioners, hair conditioners, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair dryers waves, permanent waving agents and hair dyes. Hair treatments and hair conditioning agents are preferred forms of the agents according to the invention, especially those that are applied to the hair in the morning, to give it a certain fortification for the rest of the day give.

Depending on the nature of the hair treatment agent, the erfindungsge mäß preparations all known in such agents active, additive and Excipients included. In many cases, the preparations contain min at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitter ionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants suitable are. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous, the Ten side from the nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. As a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of poly ol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol Propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C Atoms, fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and alkylphenols with 8 up to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• C _12-22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and ge hardened castor oil,  
• - Addition products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters
• - Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide system with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with each because 4 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid erwie sen. Preparations with excellent properties are also he if they are nonionic surfactants fatty acid esters of ethoxylier contain glycerol.

In a further embodiment it may be preferred to select nonionic surfactants as alkylpolyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) _x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear as well as being branched. Preferred are primary linear and in 2-position methyl-branched aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Especially preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using like that called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials predominate compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only have one contain certain alkyl radical R. Usually, these compounds but starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils provides. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to Starting compounds or according to the particular workup of this Connections before.

Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R

• essentially of C₈ and C₁₀ alkyl groups,
• essentially of C₁₂ and C₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Substituted from C₈- to C₁₆-alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C₁₂ to C₁₆ alkyl groups.

As sugar unit Z can be any mono- or oligosaccharides be set. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, Lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Be Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.4.

The alkoxylated homologs of said alkylpolyglycosides can also used according to the invention. These homologs can average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit included.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all suitable suitable for use on the human body anionic oberflä chenaktiven substances. These are characterized by a water-soluble making, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 C- Atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, Ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be included. at games for suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of Natri um-, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• - Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH₂O) x-CH₂-COOH, in the R a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 is
• Acylsarcosides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,  
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• linear alkanesulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH₂-CH₂O) _x -OSO₃H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• - Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ether according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 Double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide Represent fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, Alkylpolyglykolethersul fate and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds denotes in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and carry at least one -COO (⁻) - or -SO₃ (⁻) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N- dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl dimethylammo niumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-one carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarb oxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine known fatty acid amide derivative  

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning surface-active compounds which, apart from a C₈-C₁₈-alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO₃H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-Al kylaminopropionsäuren and Alkylaminoessigsäuren each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acylsarcosine.

Examples of those used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Baren cationic surfactants are in particular quaternary Ammoniumverbindun Preferred are ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distea ryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethyl benzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further inventions cationic surfactants which can be used in accordance with the invention are the quaternized Protein hydrolysates.

Likewise suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils For example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxyl-amino-modified silicone, also called amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Elec tric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil® Quat 3270 and 3272 (Her steller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quater nium-80).

Alkylamidoamines, in particular fatty acid amidoamines such as the Be Tego Amid®S 18 available Stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, are characterized by a good conditioning effect especially by their good biodegradability.  

Also very readily biodegradable are quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as the products Dehyquart® AU-46, Dehyquart®F-30 and Dehyquart®F-75 as well as those sold under the trademark Stepantex® NEN Dialkylammoniummethosulfate and methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkyl methosulfates.

An example of a quaternary addition that can be used as a cationic surfactant ckerderivat represents the commercial product Glucquat®100, according to CTFA nouns a "Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chlorides".

In the compounds used as surfactants with alkyl groups it can each are uniform substances. It is however in the Re gel, in the preparation of these substances of native plant or animal raw materials, so that you substance mixtures with un he different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths he holds.

For the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene represent oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, Both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and can those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. Under "normal" homolog distribution are mixtures of homologs ver which are in the implementation of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide under Use of alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metals koholaten receives as catalysts. Narrow homolog distributions who obtained, however, if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcohol holate be used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Insofar as the preparations according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants they preferably contain these in amounts of 0.01-1.5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.

A further preferred embodiment contains the erfindungsge Proper preparation of a water-insoluble oil. Under water-insoluble oils  are understood to mean those organic liquids which at 20 ° C in What less than 1% by weight are soluble.

Oils which can be used according to the invention are, for example, based on paraffin oils saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, Silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, squalane, squalene, cholesterol fatty acid esters, Lanolin and below 60 ° C melting wool wax alcohols and their lower (1-10 E0) ethoxylates. Paraffin oils based on linear and in particular methyl branched hydrocarbons have proven to be particularly suitable net proven.

The preparations according to the invention contain the water-insoluble oils preferably in amounts of 0.01-8 wt .-%, based on the entire Zuberei tung. Especially for preparations that remain on the keratin fiber, it may be preferred that the water-insoluble oil is not present in amounts above of 4% by weight, based on the total preparation.

In a further preferred embodiment, the erfindungsge In addition, preparations additionally contain a hair conditioning agent. Preferred hair conditioning agents may be those already mentioned above be cationic surfactants.

Another preferred group of hair conditioning agents is Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble be. Both volatile and nonvolatile silo are suitable xanes, understood as nonvolatile siloxanes such compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C at normal pressure. before Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethyl siloxane, polyalkylaryl siloxanes such as polyphenylmethylsilo xan, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes, the amine and / or hydroxy groups.

Another group of hair conditioning agents is cationic butadiene mers.  

The cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention contain internally half of the polymer backbone cationic groups. These groups can be part the polymer chain be; but they can also be located in side chains, which are connected via intermediate links with a main chain. Usual cat ionic groups contain quaternary nitrogen or phosphorus atoms. Grup Quaternary nitrogen atoms are preferred. The quaternary Nitrogen atoms can be both 4 different or z. T. same Wear substituents, as well as be part of a ring system. preferred cationic groups are ammonium and imidazolinium groups.

If the ionic groups are in the side chains, then the poly mers composed of compounds, in addition to at least one cationic Group contain at least one polymerizable group and are free of anionic groups.

The polymerizable group is preferably a vinyl group. It is, however also cationic polymers can be used, in which the polymer main chain for example, is composed of glycosides or has protein character.

Also preferred according to the invention are cationic copolymers, in addition to the cationic monomers at least one nonionic Contain monomer. Suitable nonionic monomers are, for example Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, methacrylamide, methyl acrylate, Ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate. Vinylpyrrolidone is a particularly preferred nonionic monomer.

A number of cationic polymers suitable for hair care are known to those skilled in the art and available as commercial products.

Examples of such polymers are:

• - quaternized cellulose derivatives, as described under the names Cel quat® and Polymer JR® are commercially available. The compounds Cel quat H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quaters ned cellulose derivatives.  
• - quaternized guar derivatives, as they are known under the names Cosmedia Guar® and Jaguar® are commercially available. Preferred guar derivatives Examples are Cosmedia Guar® C-261 and Jaguar® C 13-S.
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dial kylaminoacrylats- and -methacrylats, such as with diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copoly and the vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers. Such compounds are under the designations Gafquat®734, Gafquat®755 and Gafquat® HS100 are commercially available.
• Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with vinylimidazolium methochloride, as offered under the name Luviquat®.
• - Polymers Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the designation Merquat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Mer quatR550 (dimethyldialylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) in Han del products available are examples of such cationic poly mers.
• Cationic derivatized silicone oils, such as those commercially available available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabili trated trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (ent holding a hydroxyl-amino-modified silicone, also called Amodi methicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil® Quat 3270 and 7232 (Her steller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quater nium-80).
• - Chitosan and its derivatives
• - Cationically derivatized protein hydrolysates, for example, by Reaction of alkaline, acid or enzymatically hydrolyzed Pro with glycidyl trialkylammonium salts or 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium salts can be obtained in the sense of this  Invention also cationic polymers. The proteins, called as Aus can serve for the protein hydrolysates, both animal as well as vegetable origin. Usual starting materials are included For example, keratin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, milk protein, Wheat protein, silk protein and almond protein. By the hydrolysis arise substance mixtures with molecular weights in the range of about 100 to about 50,000 daltons. Typical average molecular weights are within a range of about 500 to about 5000 daltons.

Advantageously, the cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates one or two long alkyl chains with 8 to 22 C atoms and correspondingly two or one short alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred.

Preferred protein derivatives are substances of the formula (II),

in the R⁴ for the side chains of the amino acids of the protein, R¹ and R² independently of one another for alkyl chains having 1 to 4 C atoms and R³ for an alkyl chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

A product available on the market is Lamequat® L (Chemische Fa brik Grünau). It has the structure

in which R stands for side chains of amino acids of collagen. A term analogous to CTFA is Lauryldimonium hydroxypropylamino Hydrolyzed collagens.

• - Polymeric condensation resins of polyols and polyamines, as in For example, polyglycol-polyamine condensation resins, which under the CTFA designation PEG-15 cocopolyamine are known. In the trade is at For example, the product Polyquart®H 81 (Henkel) is available.

Another, in hair-conditioning formulations according to the invention Agents useful group constitute nonionic surfactants.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Polyvinylpyrrolidone, as described for example under the name Luviskol® (BASF). Polyvinylpyrrolidones are coming used nonionic polymers in the context of the invention.
• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as described, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF). Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, in each case vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as, for example, among the goods Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON).
• - shellac

Finally, phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg Lecithin and cephalins are used as hair conditioning agents the.

Preferably, the hair conditioning agents in amounts of 0.1-5 % By weight, based on the total preparation.  

Further constituents of the agents according to the invention can be, for example his:

• - structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates and xanthan gum,
• - Protein hydrolysates, especially elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates whose condensates onsprodukte with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• - dyes,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climba zol,
• - other substances for adjusting the pH,
• - active substances such as panthenol, nonionic and cationic derivatives of Panthenols such as those under the name Panthequat® distributed compound, allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their Salts, plant extracts and vitamins,
• - sunscreen,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and Fatty alcohols,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, EDETA, NTA and phosphonic acids,
• - Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ethers, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and pri mary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,
• - Propellant such as propane-butane mixtures, N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂ and Air as well
• - antioxidants,
• - direct dyes,
• - So-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye Fast food products,  
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thio lactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - Oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and Natriumbro mat.

The agents which can be used according to the invention can be used as solution, lotion, emuls sion, microemulsion, cream or gel. The formulation as Solution, emulsion or microemulsion having a water content of 50 to 90 % By weight, based on the total agent, may be preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment, the means in the form be made up of foam aerosols. Here is both the formula tion with a liquefied gas as propellant and in the form of soge called pump sprays possible, where the pressure required for spraying is constructed by mechanical pumping. Nitrogen, air, carbon dioxide, Propane, butane, isobutane, pentane and dimethyl ether are preferred propellants medium. Although chlorofluorocarbons and chlorinated hydrocarbons in terms the aerosol properties achieved are excellent propellants, so is but their use as blowing agents in the compositions of the invention Because of the known ozone problem less preferred.

The invention also provides the use of the invention Agent for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The invention also relates to a method for the treatment of Hair in which a composition of the invention applied to the hair will and remains there.

Finally, the subject of the invention is a method of treatment of hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair rinsed and rinsed out again after an exposure time (0.5 to 40 minutes) becomes.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.  

1. Determination of Curl Retention Test

To determine the curl retention capacity (the so-called curl retention value), the procedure was as follows:
A 15 cm long strand of hair (Alkinco 6634, strand weight: 2 g) was treated with 0.3 g of the test preparation and wound on a glass tube of 2.0 cm outside diameter, fixed and dried. A measure of the stability of the curl obtained after pulling out of the glass tube is the curl retention value which is defined as [II _x ) / (II _o )] * 100%, where l is the length of the hair strand (15 cm), l _o is the length of the hair curl un indirectly after drying and l _x is the length of the hair curl after x stündi ger contiguous storage in a drying cabinet at constant conditions (25 ° C, 60% relative humidity).

The values found, each of the mean values from several measurements are listed in Table I. All amounts in Table I are wt .-%.

Table I

2. Application examples

All quantities are in wt .-%.

2.1 cure pack (remaining on the hair) Cetiol®OE³ 0.6 Eumulgin®05⁴ 0.4 D-panthenol 0.6 Luviquat®FC-370⁵ 0.2 ethanol 10.0 glucose 0.1 Sepigel®305 0.6 Carbopol®ETD 2001⁶ 0.6 triethanolamine q.s. water ad 100

3 dioctyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (HENKEL)
4 oleyl alcohol + 5 ethylene oxide (INCI name: Oleth-5) (HENKEL)
5 Vinylimidazolium methochloride-vinylpyrrolidone (30:70) copolymer (40% active in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)
6 crosslinked polyacrylic acid (INCI name: Carbomer) (GOODRICH)

2.2. shampoo Texapon®N 70⁷ 21.0 Plantaren®-1200⁸ 8.0 Genamin®DSAC⁹ 1.2 Cutina®EGMS¹⁰ 0.6 3V Sigma PNC®400 0.6 Sepigel®305 1.0 sodium chloride 0.2 water ad 100

7 sodium lauryl ether sulfate (about 72% active ingredient) (HENKEL)
8 C 12 -C 16 -alkyl glucoside with degree of oligomerization 1.4 (about 50% active substance, INCI name: lauryl polyglycoside) (HENKEL)
9 dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (HOECHST)
10 ethylene glycol monostearate (about 25-35% monoester, 60-70% diester, INCI name: glycol stearate) (HENKEL)

2.3 cure pack (rinsable) Stenol®1618¹¹ 3.0 Eumulgin®B1¹² 0.5 Eumulgin® B 2¹³ 0.5 Cutina®CP¹⁴ 1.0 Eutanol®G1 5 1.5 Dow Corning®929 emulsion¹¹ 2.9 Celquat®L200¹⁷ 2.0 Sepigel®305 0.4 Carbopol®ETD 2050¹⁸ 0.7 Sodium hydroxide solution (25%) q.s. water ad 100

11 C16 / C18 fatty alcohol (HENKEL)
12 cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 12 mol EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (HENKEL)
13 Cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 20 mol E0 (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)
14 esters of saturated, long-chain fatty alcohols and fatty acids, in particular palmitic acid cetyl ester (INCI name: cetyl palmitate) (HENKEL)
15 Condensation product of saturated liquid fatty alcohols, mainly decyl alcohol, prepared according to the Guerbet reaction (INCI name: octyldodecanol) (HENKEL)
16 amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (35% active) (DOW CORNING)
17 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Diallyldimethylammonium Chloride Copolymers (95% Active Substance, INCI Name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT-NATIONAL)
18 modified polyacrylic acid (INCI name: carbomer) (GOODRICH)

Claims (19)

1. A preparation for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human Licher hair, characterized in that it consists of a Wirkstoffkombina tion consisting of

• an anionic homopolymer A and
• an anionic copolymer B having at least one nonionic co-monomer

contains. 2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the anioni homopolymer A is a polymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, which is optionally crosslinked with a polyol. 3. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic homopolymer A wholly or partly neutralized with a base is siert. 4. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized that the homopolymer A in an amount of 0.1-5 wt .-%, in particular 0.4-5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation is included. 5. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized the anionic copolymer B is an anionic monomer having a Contains -COO⁻- or -SO₃⁻ group. 6. Preparation according to claim 5, characterized in that the anioni is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, meth acrylic acid, crotonic acid, acrylamido (C 1 -C 4) alkylcarboxylic acids, acrylic amido (C1-4) alkylsulfonic acids, maleic acid, maleic acid mono (C1-C4) - formed alkyl esters and their physiologically acceptable salts becomes.   7. Preparation according to claim 6, characterized in that anionic Monomers an acrylamido (C1-4) alkylsulfonic acid or a salt thereof Acid is. 8. Preparation according to claim 7, characterized in that anionic Monomeric acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a salt thereof Acid is. 9. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized that the anionic copolymer B ent a nonionic co-monomer which is selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, vinylpyr rolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylic acid (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl esters, vinyl alcohol and Vinyl alcohol (C1-C4) -alkyl ethers is formed. 10. Preparation according to claim 9, characterized in that the not ionic co-monomer acrylamide. 11. A preparation according to claim 10, characterized in that the anio African copolymers B consists of

• 40-95 mol% acrylamide,
• - 5-60 mol% acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt of this acid and
• 0-55 mol% of further anionic and / or nonionic monomers.

12. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized that the copolymer B in an amount of 0.1-2 wt .-%, in particular 0.3-2 wt .-%, based on the total preparation is included. 13. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized that it additionally contains a nonionic surfactant. 14. A preparation according to claim 13, characterized in that the not ionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated glycerol mono-, di- and triglycerides.   15. A preparation according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant in amounts of 0.01-1.5 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation is included. 16. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized that they 0.01 to 8 wt .-% of a water-insoluble oil, based on the entire preparation contains. 17. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized that they contain 0.1-5% by weight of a hair-conditioning agent, be attracted to the whole preparation, contains. 18. A method for the treatment of hair, characterized in that a Agent according to one of claims 1 to 17 applied to the hair and remains on this.