DE10121090A1 - New cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise a synergistic combination of sericoside and tetrahydrocurcumin or its derivatives, useful for treating e.g. skin inflammation and aging symptoms - Google Patents

Abstract

New cosmetic or dermatological compositions (I) comprise an active agent combination of: (A) sericoside and/or a plant extract containing sericoside; and (B) tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and/or tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin.

Description

The present invention relates to active ingredients for the production of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations for the care and protection of the skin, in particular the sensitive skin, as well especially emphasized by intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors aged or aging skin, for the prevention and / or treatment of inflammatory Skin conditions and the use of such agents and combinations of such agents on the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Under cosmetic skincare is to be understood first and foremost that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the Loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) strengthened or is restored.

If this function is disturbed, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or for the infestation of microorganisms and as a consequence to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

In old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, in particular the water-binding capacity of the horny layer decreases. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes prone to negative environmental influences, such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result it can even lead to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, barrier damage is a priori. epidermal Intercellular lipids are formed incorrectly or in insufficient quantity or composition. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horny layer and insufficient protection of the Skin from loss of hygroscopic substances and water.  

The barrier effect of the skin may be beyond the determination of transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without the inclusion of water loss during sweating. The Determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extremely informative and can be used for Diagnosis of cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility chemically various built-up surfactants and the like are used more.

For the beauty and nourishment of the skin is the water content in the uppermost skin layer of greatest importance. You can do it to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleansing preparations, can increase the pH value in the horny layer for a long time, which regenerative processes, the Restoration and renewal of the barrier function of the skin serve, severely hampered. In this Case arises in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances by regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium, which the External appearance of the skin and the physiological function of the horny layer decide dend impaired.

Even with a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants, it comes first to a Swelling of the horny layer of the skin, wherein the degree of this swelling, for example, on the duration of the Bath and its temperature depends. At the same time, water-soluble substances, eg. B. water-soluble Dirt components, but also skin-own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the Horn layer are responsible, washed off or washed out. By skin's own, surface-active substances In addition, skin fats are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent. This requires initial swelling a subsequent, significant dehydration of the skin by washing active Additives can be reinforced.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, since the protective mechanisms of the Skin can readily compensate for such minor disorders of the upper skin layers. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, eg. B. by environmental Wear damage or irritations, photodamage, aging skin, etc., is the protective mechanism of Skin surface disturbed. Under certain circumstances, he is then no longer able to do his own thing Task to be fulfilled and must be regenerated by external measures.

In addition, it is known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin younger and derogates from the normal condition in the healthy, normal-hydrated skin same age group is found. At the same time changes in a lipid pattern are very  dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic dermatitis is an extreme case for the Deviations that are found in the dry skin of healthy people.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are strong in their quantity reduced and additionally composed differently. Striking is in a special way that Deficit of the ceramides 1 and 3, wherein in particular for the ceramide 1 it is known that it is in especially increases the order of lipids in the intercellular membrane systems.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the kind described above may be due Unfortunately, this is due to misguided lipid biosynthesis and, in effect, also increases transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes them healthy skin is more sensitive and can cause single-cell eczematous processes in the individual case contribute to the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the horny layer consists in usually not in a restoration or strengthening of physicochemical properties of lamellae from intercellular lipids. A significant partial effect is based on the mere coverage of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying Stratum corneum. Coapplied, hygroscopic substances bind the water, causing it to form a measurable increase in water content in the horny layer comes. This purely physical barrier however, it can be removed relatively easily. After stopping the product, the skin returns then very quickly back to the state before treatment. In addition, the skin can with regular treatment, so that eventually even during the Treatment of the status quo is achieved again. For certain products, the deteriorates Skin condition may be temporary after weaning. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.

To support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and its physiological To strengthen function, topical preparations are increasing in recent times Intercellular lipid mixtures are added by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier should be used. However, these lipids, but especially the Ceramides to very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually much less than hoped.

Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of such agents and preparations, such agents containing, for immune stimulation of the skin, while beneficial also for immune stimulation in the sense a treatment of the injured skin, in particular for the treatment of wounds.

Moreover, the invention relates to preparations for the treatment of sensitive (sensitive) Skin. The problem of "sensitive skin" affects a growing number of adults and children. With  Sensitive skin is a combination of various symptoms, such as hyperreactive and intolerant skin. But also atopic skin can be subsumed under it. These skin conditions are often referred to by those affected, not quite correct, as "allergic" skin. Even though An allergic disease can lead to symptoms of sensitive skin is the appearance sensitive skin "is not limited to allergy sufferers.

The skin, especially the epidermis, is called the barrier organ of the human organism particular degree subjected to external influences. After today, scientific Understanding, the skin represents an immunological organ that functions as an immunocompetent, peripheral compartment plays its own role in inductive, effective and regulatory immune processes of the whole organism plays.

The epidermis is rich with nerves and nerve end apparatus, such as Father Pacini lamellar bodies, Merkel cell neurite complexes and free nerve endings for pain, cold, Heat sensation and itching equipped.

For people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, one with "Stinging" (<engl. <To sting "= hurting, burning, aching), neurosensory phenomenon observed become. This "sensitive skin" is basically different from "dry skin" with thickened ones and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" in sensitive skin are redness, tightness and burning of the skin as well as itching.

As a neurosensory phenomenon is the itching in atopic skin and itching at Skin diseases.

"Stinging" phenomena can be considered as cosmetically treated disorders. Stronger Itching, on the other hand, especially in atopy, severe itching of the skin, can also be described as more serious dermatological disorder.

Typical, disturbing, related to the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" Neurosensory phenomena include redness, tingling, tingling, tightening and burning of the skin and itching. You can by stimulating environmental conditions, eg. Massage, Surfactant effect, weather influence, such as sun, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, Heat radiation and UV radiation, z. B. the sun, are caused.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977), P.J. Frosch and A. M. Kligman a method for estimating the stinging potential of topically administered Substances. As positive substances are here z. As lactic acid and pyruvic acid used.  

When measured by this method but were also amino acids, in particular glycine, as determined neurosensory active (such substances are called "Stinger").

According to previous findings, such a sensitivity to very specific Substances individually different. This means a person in contact with a person Experienced substance "Stingingeffekte", it is likely to contact each additional contact to experience repeatedly. The contact with other "stingers" can just as well without any reaction run.

Many more or less sensitive people also have some when using Deodorizing or antiperspirant preparations with erythematous Hauterschei sufferings.

Erythematous skin manifestations also occur as a side effect in certain Skin disorders or irregularities. For example, the typical rash is when Appearance of acne regularly flushed more or less severely.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remedy.

In particular, active ingredients and preparations containing such active ingredients should be added to the cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive phenomena, in particular dermatoses, but also of erythema picture of the "Stinging".

Furthermore, such active ingredients, or preparations containing such active ingredients should be available which are used for immune stimulation of the skin, while beneficial also for immune stimulation in the sense of the wound healing promoting effect, can be used.

When using the active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or topical, dermatological preparations with an effective content of inventions verwen The combination of active ingredients is synergistically an effective treatment, but also one Prophylaxis of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic dermatitis - and / or Skin protection possible on sensitive, dry skin. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of it However, the inventive active ingredient is also used in a surprising manner to calm down sensitive or irritated skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention act synergistically in all these uses  relative to the individual components.

Under skin care in the context of the present invention is to be understood primarily that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, lipids, Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are in themselves known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited in time.

As already described, the effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the Hydration of the horny layer substantially on the cover (occlusion) of the treated Hautbe so that a sustainable product effect usually not or only in one limited degree is achieved.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin even exists in a selective barrier damage that should allow active ingredients in or through the skin in the body can penetrate. A disturbed appearance of the skin is thereby as a side effect partially accepted.

The effect of nourishing cleansing products is essentially efficient Refatting with sebum lipid-like substances. By the simultaneous reduction of the Surfactant content of such preparations, the damage to the horny layer barrier can continue limit.

However, the prior art lacks of preparations which the barrier function and the Hydration of the horny layer positively influence and the physicochemical properties of the Horn layer and in particular the lamellae from intercellular lipids strengthen or even restore.

The object of the present invention was thus to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove. In particular, skin-care preparations and preparations should be used for Rei skin are provided, showing the barrier properties of the skin maintain or restore, especially if the natural regeneration of the skin is not sufficient. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage Skin dehydration, such as fissures or inflammatory or allergic pro or atopic dermatitis, be suitable. Object of the present invention was It also provides stable, skin care, cosmetic and / or dermatological agents  which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular the effect of the preparations should be physiological, fast and sustainable.

In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological Skin changes, such. As the unwanted pigmentation, such as local hyper- and Fehlpigmentierungen (for example, liver spots, freckles), but also to the pure cosmetic whitening larger, the individual skin type in itself quite appropriate pigmented skin areas.

Responsible for the pigmentation of the skin are the melanocytes, which are in the lowest layer the epidermis, the stratum basale, in addition to the basal cells as, depending on the skin type either isolated or more or less frequently occurring, pigment-forming cells are to be found. Melanocytes contain as characteristic cell organelles melanosomes, which are stimulated by UV radiation amplifies melanin. This is transported into the keratinocytes and calls one more or less pronounced, brownish or brown skin color.

Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process involving tyrosine of the enzyme tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (Dopa), dopa-quinone, leucodopachromium, Dopachrom, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone is finally converted to melanin.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have many causes or are accompanying symptoms tions of many biological processes, eg. B. UV radiation (eg freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, Fehlpigmentierung of the skin in wound healing or scarring or the Skin aging (eg Lentigines seniles).

Active ingredients and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation. in the Practical uses are essentially preparations based on hydroquinone, which but on the one hand only after several weeks of application show their effect, their exaggerated long Application on the other hand, for toxicological reasons is questionable. Also, the inhibition of Tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and derivatives thereof common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

To remedy these evils, was the object of the present invention.

It is also the aim of skin care to reduce the loss of fat and water caused by daily washing to balance the skin. This is especially important when the natural regenerative ability not enough. In addition, skin care products should protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, protect and delay skin aging.  

The chronological skin aging is z. B. by endogenous, genetically determined. Causes factors. In epidermis and dermis it comes due to aging z. As to the following structural damage and dysfunction, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) diminished fatty acid regeneration (eg after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can be cumulatively effective and z. B. accelerate the endogenous aging processes or supplement them. In epidermis and dermis it comes in particular by exogenous factors z. As to the following structural damage and dysfunction in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage in chronological aging:

• a) Visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);
• b) slack and wrinkle formation;
• c) local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentations (eg age spots), and
• d) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to natural care products aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage of photodamage, in particular under a) to g) listed phenomena.

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain z. B. retinoids (vitamin A Acid and / or their derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on the Structural damage, however, is limited in scope. In addition, there is the product development considerable difficulties, the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative Stabilize decay. In addition, the use of vitamin A acid-containing products often requires strong, erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with an effective Protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for the protection of cosmetic properties preparations themselves or to protect the constituents of cosmetic preparations from harmful effects Oxidation processes.

The present invention furthermore relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are present in skin-care, cosmetic or dermatological preparations. In particular, the Invention also cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants. In  In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and derma tological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as As skin aging, in particular the hervorge by oxidative processes called skin aging.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active ingredients and preparations, such active ingredients containing, for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis erythematous, ent inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive phenomena, especially dermatoses.

The present invention relates in another advantageous embodiment Wirkstoffkom combinations and preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses serve.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is general known. While rays with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm (the so-called UV-C Area), are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, causing rays in the Range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range, an erythema, a simple Sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the narrower range around 308 nm specified.

For protection against UV-B radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are Derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, des Benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole acts.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UV-A range, it is important to have available filter substances, as its rays reactions at can cause light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UV-A radiation leads to damage the elastic and collagenous fibers of the connective tissue leads to premature aging of the skin, and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The harmful influence of UV-B radiation can be enhanced by UV-A radiation.

For protection against the rays of the UV-A range, therefore, certain derivatives of dibenzoyl methane whose photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science, 10, 53 (1988)) is not used in Ausrei is given.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the  Photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism intervene.

Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are free-radical Compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Also undefined, radical Photoproducts, which develop in the skin itself, can be unconcerned due to their high reactivity trolled follow-up reactions to the day. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical, excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur under UV irradiation, as well as short-lived Epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, stands out over the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased Reacti vitality. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the Oxygen molecule.

Furthermore, UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that even ionic Species in UV exposure arise, which in turn oxidative in the biochemical processes to intervene.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological For emulsions additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers are incorporated.

It has already been suggested to use vitamin E, a substance known to have antioxidant activity However, the effect achieved here also remains far behind hoped for back.

The object of the invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical To provide active ingredients and preparations as well as sunscreen formulations, which are used for the prophylaxis and Treatment of photosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD serve.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis include PLD, PLE, Mallorca Acne and one Variety of other designations as described in the literature (eg A. Voelckel et al., "Zentralblatt Haut- and venereal diseases "(1989), 156, p. 2).

Mainly antioxidants are used as protective substances against the spoilage of them containing Preparations used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in the human and animal skin unwanted oxidation processes can occur. Such processes play an essential role at the aging of the skin.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Dekker Inc., New York-Basel-Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and  Lester Packer, Berkeley, California), become oxidative damage to the skin and its nearer causes listed.

Also, for the reason, to prevent such reactions, cosmetic or derma In addition, antioxidants and / or free-radical scavengers can be incorporated into tological formulations.

Although some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. So is already in the US patents 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents have been proposed, Vita use E, a substance with known antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations; Nevertheless, the achieved effect is far behind the hoped for.

Object of the present invention was thus to find ways that the disadvantages of the prior Avoid technology. In particular, the effect of remedy with the endogenous, chrono logical and exogenous skin aging related damage and prophylaxis permanently, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

According to the invention, the drawbacks of the prior art are eliminated by active ingredient combinations of tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and / or tetrahydrobis demethoxycurcumin with sericoside and / or plant extracts containing the same.

As Tetrahydrocurcumoide a mixture of the obtained by hydrogenation of the root extract of Curcuma longa, yellow curcumin and its by-products or one of the essential ingredients tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and tetra hydrobisdemethoxycurcumin alone. The mixture of Tetrahydrocurcumine is colorless in contrast to curcumin. The main ingredients can be described by the following structure formulas:

Tetrahydrocurcumin forms the main constituent of tetrahydrocurcumoids. There are also:

Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and the:

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin in the mixture called Tetrahydrocurcumoide contain.

PCT / US99 / 09006 describes the use of tetrahydrocurcumin as an antioxidant in Preparations for pigment lightening. On further, advantageous effects of such Zuberei tions, in particular an improvement of the barrier function of the skin, is nothing revealed. The use of tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin or tetrahydrobis Demethoxycurcumin is also not disclosed in the cited document.

US 5861415 describes a method for removing free radicals in patients, for Prevention of their formation or protection of body tissues from damage by the Use of curcumins. These act as antioxidants, among others. It is revealed and that in the curcumins extracted from Radix Curcuma longa small proportions of Tetrahydrocurcumin may be included. However, this substance is not advantageous Attributed effects. The use of tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin or tetra hydrobisdemethoxycurcumin is also not disclosed in said patent.

The article "Involvement of the β-Diketone Moiety in the Antioxidant Mechanism of Tetra hydrocurcumin "by Y. Sugiyama and others in the journal" Biochemical Pharmacology ", Volume 52, pages 519-525 of 1996 shows that Tetrahydrocurcuminoide the muta effect of various carcinogenic substances is more effectively inhibited than curcumin, whose main metabolite it is. This is the antioxidant effect of its β-diketonischen Attributed to structure subunit. Other beneficial effects of THC, such as concerning the improvement of the barrier function of the skin, nothing is said.

Sericoside (ie the (D) -glycosyl ester of 2α, 3β, 19α, 24-tetrahydroxy-olane-12-ene-28-oic acid) is characterized by the following structural formula:

and is part of the plant extract from Terminalia sericea. The Termalia are big Trees with hard wood, of which about 150 species occur in the tropics of all continents.

It is inventively advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological Preparations 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, especially 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, of sericoside and the total amount of the present invention used Tetrahydrocurcuminoiden in the finished, cosmetic or dermatological Preparations advantageously from the range of 0.01-10 wt.%, Preferably 0.02-5.0 wt. %, in particular 0.05-2.5 wt .-%, is selected, based on the total weight of Preparations. It is advantageous, pure individual substances selected from the group Tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin or tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, to use, or optionally, drug combinations with weight ratios between the three tetrahydrocurcuminoids tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxy curcumin and / or tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin from the range of 60-100 to 0.01-30 to 0.01-10, preferably 70-100 to 5-25 to 0.01-8, especially 80-100 to 15-20 to 1-4 choose.

The inventive combination of at least one of the three tetrahydrocurcuminoids Tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and / or tetrahydrobisdemethoxy curcumin, in particular all three tetrahydrocurcuminoids with sericoside and / or plants Extracts containing the same is also collectively referred to in this document as "inventions active ingredient "or" active ingredient used in the invention or "according to the invention Used combination of active ingredients "designated or assigned with related names.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations to containing such drug combinations are extremely satisfactory in all respects de preparations. It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention:

• - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,  
• - better counteract skin dehydration,
• - better against pigment disorders,
• - Act better against aging skin and
• - protect the skin better from environmental influences,

as the preparations of the prior art.

When applying the active compound combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active compound combinations used according to the invention, an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis, is surprisingly effective:

• - of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive states of skin appendages,
• - of signs of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the skin appendages,
• - of environmental factors (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-induced, negative changes in the skin and the skin appendages,
• - of light-induced skin damage,
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• Dry skin conditions and corneal barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth,
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrhoeic eczema, polymorphic photodermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. However, the active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also surprisingly serves:

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin,
• - to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis,
• To stimulate ceramide synthesis of the skin,
• - To stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficit or hypoactive skin conditions,
• - to increase the cell renewal and regeneration of the skin,
• - To increase the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (for example for dys functional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins),
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasion treatments that z. B. the reduction of skin folds and scars serve to the resulting skin irritation and counteract the regeneration processes in the promote injured skin.

According to the invention, therefore, the use of active substance combinations of tetrahydro curcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and / or tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin with sericoside and / or plant extracts, comprising the same:

• For the cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of unwanted skin stands,
• - for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - also the atopic Eczema,
• - for skin protection of sensitive, dry skin,
• For the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders,
• - to protect the skin from photoreactions,
• - for the treatment and prophylaxis of sensitive skin conditions,
• For the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging tion,
• - for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the Skin,
• To prevent wrinkling of the skin,
• - to protect the skin from loss of elasticity,
• - to prevent skin dehydration,
• To increase the ceramide biosynthesis of the skin,
• - to strengthen the barrier function of the skin,
• - to strengthen the deoxidative skin protection,
• To prevent the binding of harmful photoproducts to lipids, DNA and proteins
• - and / or to improve the protection of the skin from environmental influences.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention act synergistically in all these uses relative to the individual components.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active substance combinations according to the invention contained in common antioxidants.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D Carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthonium sulfones, penta, hexa). , Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg., Citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their Derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (Eg, vitamin E acetate) and Koni ferylbenzoat the benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, Bu tylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajarethsäure, Tri hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, Trans-Stilbe noxid) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the invention used active ingredient or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used in the invention takes place in the usual Manner, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical, dermatological preparations with an effective content of according to the invention used agent is applied to the affected skin.

Advantageously, the active ingredient used in the invention can be incorporated in conventional kos metabolic and dermatological preparations, which may be in various forms. So can you z. For example, a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water type emulsion (O / W) or a multiple emulsion, for example, the type of water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or Oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or also constitute an aerosol.

According to the invention emulsions, z. B. in the form of a cream, a Lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for Such a type of formulation can be used.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the invention  used active ingredient in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and the Insert hair.

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated, cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. The invention, Cosmetic preparations may therefore contain cosmetic adjuncts as commonly used in such preparations are used, for. B. preservatives, bactericides, deodorant active substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, means of preventing the Foaming, dyes, coloring pigments, thickening agents, emollients Substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or others, usual ingredients of a cosmetic formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Schaumstabi separators, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Medicinal, topical compositions according to the present invention contained in the Usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, the clean distinction between cosmetic and medical use and appropriate Referred to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which Absorb radiation in the UV-B range, wherein the total amount of the filter substances z. B. 0.1% by weight % to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, available to cosmetic preparations to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire range of ultraviolet radiation protect. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UV-B filter substances, these may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageously according to the invention, oil-soluble UV-B filters are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzyl idencampher;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxy zimtsäureisopentylester;
• - esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid (4-iso propylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester,  
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous, water-soluble UV-B filters are z. B .:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or trietha nolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts as well as the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the corresponding the 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or tri ethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid be records.

The list of said UV-B filters used in combination with the active ingredient according to the invention Combinations can be used, of course, should not be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to use UV-A filters commonly used in cosmetic applications preparations are included. These substances are preferably derivatives of di benzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. It can be used for the UV-B combination used quantities.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O) ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and blends from such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention, although not mandatory, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, d. h., that they superficially wasserabwei are treated. This surface treatment may consist in that the pigments after known methods are provided with a thin, hydrophobic layer.  

Such a method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction according to:

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will; R and R ' the desired, organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 shown, hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, For example, inorganic micropigments incorporated in the preparations of the invention are also anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water.

The hydrophilic portions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar, functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts are usually un polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• Amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants have as functional groups usually carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged, orga African ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged, organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^- ,

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7),

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg. Na ⁺ .

Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants form in aqueous Medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

Advantageously used, anionic surfactants are:
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as:

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium Caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydro lysed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoylsarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate,
• 6. alaninates.

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as:

• 1. Carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6-citrate and sodium PEG- 4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13-carboxylate and sodium-PEG-6 Cocamide-carboxylate.

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate.
Sulfonic acids and salts, such as:

• 1. Acyl-isethionates, z. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as:
Sulfuric acid esters, such as:

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA-laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 -pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Advantageous cationic surfactants are:

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. Alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants,
• 5. esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalent with 4 alkyl or aryl groups connected is. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Are advantageous Alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The invention cationic surfactants used can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, Alkyldimethylhydro xyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkyl amidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyri midinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and cationic compounds, such as amine oxides, for example, alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Are advantageous in particular to use cetyltrimethylammonium salts.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageous, amphoteric surfactants are:

• 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodi propionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, Sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nonionic surfactants

Advantageously used nonionic surfactants are:

• 1. Alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. Esters obtained by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols are formed,  
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated Polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside,
• 6. sucrose esters, ethers,
• 7. polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters,
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric Surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surfactant may be in a concentration between 1 and 95 wt .-% in the Preparations according to the invention are present, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the inventive, cosmetic or dermatological emulsions can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes;
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, further natural oils, such as. B. Castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of Fatty acids with low C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoate;
• - Silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and Mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of Esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acid ren a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils may then be present be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isoprene pyloleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononone noate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, Oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.  

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unreacted branched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid tri For example, glycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, Almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in terms of to use present invention. It may also be advantageous, waxes, For example, cetyl palmitate to use as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Mi mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 -Alkylben zoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in terms of to use present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are usually characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones having a plurality of siloxy units which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2 to 200,000.

Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (eg decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is used according to the invention used dendes silicone oil. But other silicone oils are advantageous in the context of the present Invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat and such Cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

However, it is also advantageous to use silicone oils of similar constitution to those mentioned above Select compounds whose organic side chains derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).  

Furthermore, mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous Cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, Propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or - monoethyl ethers and analogous products, furthermore lower C number alcohols, e.g. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain, in particular, advantageously or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the group gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or others Polymers.

Hydrogel preparations according to the invention contain one or more Hy drocolloide. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the aforementioned group.

The gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and form resins or Extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can be advantageous in the sense of the present Er For example, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, Guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum.

Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums, such as. B. hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are z. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, Chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are z. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

Among the phyllosilicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such. B. Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates, such as Veegum®. these can be used as such or in modified form, such. Stearylalkonium hectorites.

Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels.  

Among the polyacrylates are z. Carbopol grades from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are z. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain one or more Emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are:

• a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (eg. Glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates),
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids,
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides,
• d) Alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (eg Triton X).

Among the anionic emulsifiers are:

• a) soaps (eg sodium stearate),
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates,
• c) mono-, di- and Trialkylphosphorsäureester and their ethoxylates.

Among the cationic emulsifiers are:

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds having a long chain aliphatic radical, e.g. B. Distearyldimonium chlorides.

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are:

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren,
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines,
• c) imidazoline derivatives.

Furthermore, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols belong.

For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:

• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,  
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula:
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula:
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula:
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester,
• The ethoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates,
• - ethoxylated triglycerides,
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
  nd n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates:
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula:
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula:
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropyleneglycolglycerol fatty acid ester,
• The propoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - cholesterol propoxylates,
• The propoxylated triglycerides,
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids based on these sulfates of the general formula:
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃₎ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula:
  ROX _n -Y _m H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula:
  ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula:
  R-COO-X _n -Y _m R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula:
  RCOO-X _n -Y _m H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypro used are particularly advantageous polyoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, most advantageously having HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. Do the O / W Emulsifiers unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'on or are Isoalkylderivate, so may preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), poly ethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) )
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17). cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, poly ethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium laureth-11- be used carboxylate.

As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth-1-4-sulfate can be advantageously used.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether may be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative become. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.

As ethoxylated triglycerides may advantageously be the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

It is also advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group Polyethy lenglycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) - glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate choose.  

It is also convenient to use the sorbitan esters from the group of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms; Monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unreacted branched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms; Diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarbon acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms; Monoglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms; Diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms; Propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, and Sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carbon acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, Glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The numbers are by weight, unless otherwise specified.  

Examples

1. PIT sprays

2. O / W creams

3. W / O emulsions

4. Hydrodispersions

5. Gel cream

Mass content (%) Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 12:40 Carbomer 12:20 Xanthan gum 12:10 Cetearyl alcohol 3:00 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 4:00 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 3:00 cyclomethicones 5:00 dimeticones 1:00 tetrahydrocurcumin 12:10 sericosides 12:30 glycerin 3:00 sodium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 AL = L <pH value, set to 6.0

6. W / O cream

Mass content (%) Lameform TGI 3:50 glycerin 3:00 Dehymuls PGPH 3:50 tetrahydrocurcumin 12:20 sericosides 12:10 preservative q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demin. ad 100.00 magnesium sulfate 0.60 Isopropyl stearate 2:00 Caprylyl ether 8:00 Cetearyl Isononanoate 6:00 am

7. W / O / W cream

Mass content (%) Glyceryl stearate 3:00 PEG-100 stearate 0.75 behenyl 2:00 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 8:00 octyldodecanol 5:00 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 3:00 tetrahydrocurcumin 12:50 sericosides 1:00 Magnesium sulphate (MgSO ₄ ) 0.80 EDTA 12:10 preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 AL = L <pH value, set to 6.0

Claims (8)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations Sericoside and / or plant extracts containing the same, in combination with Tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and / or tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin. 2. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 10% by weight, very particularly 0.1 to 2% by weight of sericoside and / or plant extracts containing the same, as well as tetrahydrocurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and / or Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin in a Gesamtkon concentration of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.02-5.0% by weight, in particular 0.05-2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. 3. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1-2 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders. 4. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1-2 for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions, for Protection of the skin from photoreactions and / or skin protection in susceptible, dry skin. 5. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1-2 for the treatment and prophylaxis of sensitive skin conditions. 6. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1-2 for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or ex trinsic skin aging, for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects ultravio letter Radiation on the skin, to prevent the wrinkling of the skin, to protect the skin against loss of elasticity and / or to prevent skin drying out. 7. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1-2 for increasing ceramide biosynthesis. 8. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1-2 to strengthen the barrier function of the skin, to strengthen the deoxidative Skin protection, prevention of the binding of harmful photoproducts to lipids, DNA and proteins to improve the protection of the skin from environmental influences and / or the Prevention of skin dehydration.