CN106436000A - Process for manufacturing cotton-polyester interwoven warp knitted fabric - Google Patents
Process for manufacturing cotton-polyester interwoven warp knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN106436000A CN106436000A CN201611028127.XA CN201611028127A CN106436000A CN 106436000 A CN106436000 A CN 106436000A CN 201611028127 A CN201611028127 A CN 201611028127A CN 106436000 A CN106436000 A CN 106436000A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 39
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 abstract description 28
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 210000003746 feather Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 description 4
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 206010020112 Hirsutism Diseases 0.000 description 3
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009825 accumulation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000005611 electricity Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004806 packaging method and process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006052 Chinlon® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241001391944 Commicarpus scandens Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002457 bidirectional effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000988 bone and bone Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
- D04B27/10—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
- D04B27/24—Thread guide bar assemblies
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a process for manufacturing a cotton-polyester interwoven warp knitted fabric. The process is characterized by comprising the following steps: (1), selecting materials, namely, selecting cotton yarns and PBT long yarns; (2) performing warping, namely, performing warping on the cotton yarns and the PBT long yarns on a warping machine; (3) weaving, namely, weaving by using a tricot warp knitting machine, wherein the yarn threading mode of a guide bar is that 1 cotton yarn is threaded and one internal is preserved in one GB guide bar, one cotton yarn is threaded and one interval is preserved in 2 GB guide bars, and 4 GB guide bars are fully threaded with the PBT long yarns; or 1 cotton is threaded and 2 intervals are preserved in one GB guide bar, 1 cotton yarn is threaded and 1 internal is preserved in 2 GB guide bars, 2 cotton yarns are threaded and 1 interval is preserved in 3 GB guide bars, and 4 GB guide bars are fully threaded with the PBT long yarns; and (4) performing aftertreatment, namely, performing singeing, scouring and bleaching, dyeing and shaping on a woven blank fabric, and cooling, thereby obtaining the cotton-polyester interwoven warp knitted fabric. The process is simple in process and low in cost, comfort and elasticity are provided for the fabric due to a warp knitted coil structure, and the elasticity resilience is improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a manufacturing process of a cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric, in particular to a manufacturing process of a comfortable elastic cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted twill fabric, belonging to the technical field of cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabrics and production thereof.
Background
Along with the pursuit of comfort and the return of natural concept, cotton yarn is one of the main natural textile materials, and is more favored by people due to the advantages of softness, moisture absorption, comfort and the like. However, at present, cotton yarn is mainly applied to the field of weft knitting in knitting, and compared with weaving and weft knitting technologies, the wearability of warp-knitted fabrics is between weaving and weft knitting, specifically as follows: has unique style and hand feeling, is softer than woven fabric, and has better body than weft-knitted fabric; longitudinal and transverse elasticity between the woven fabric and the weft knitted fabric; the dimensional stability is better than that of weft-knitted fabrics, and the weft-knitted fabrics are not easy to deform; is not easy to fall apart and has better anti-snagging property. However, warp knitting has relatively poor adaptability to raw materials, and generally adopts synthetic filament yarns with high strength and good extensibility, such as terylene, chinlon, spandex and the like. Because warping is needed before warp knitting and weaving, and the speed of a warp knitting machine is generally high, the requirements of the warp knitting on hairiness, tensile breaking strength and elongation of yarns are high, and the hairiness and flying among yarns which are arranged in parallel during warping and weaving of the warp knitting cannot be too much, otherwise, yarn entanglement, yarn breakage and the like can be caused, the smooth progress of the weaving is hindered, and the production efficiency is reduced. The strength of the staple fiber yarn is generally low, and the staple fiber yarn is easy to break due to the fact that the warp knitting weaving needs to bear the tension fluctuation of the traversing of the front needle and the back needle of the guide bar needle in the looping process; and secondly, the spun yarns have more hairiness, the yarns are easy to adhere to each other, and more flying flowers are generated in warping and weaving. Therefore, the staple fiber yarns of cotton, wool and man-made cellulose fiber are less applied in warp knitting.
Along with the appearance of a novel spinning technology, high-quality cotton yarns such as combed high-count cotton yarns, singed mercerized cotton yarns, compact spun cotton yarns, various wrapped cotton yarns and the like can be produced in a large scale, and the varieties of the cotton yarns which can be selected for warp knitting are more and more abundant, so that more possibilities are provided for realizing the development of cotton products on a high-size warp knitting machine, and the interweaving of terylene and cotton enables the fabric to have good body and bone while the moisture absorption is comfortable, and the application field of warp knitting products is expanded.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art, provides a manufacturing process of a cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric, has simple process and low cost, improves the softness of the existing woven cotton-polyester products in the market and the dimensional stability of weft-knitted cotton-polyester products, provides comfortable elasticity for the fabric by utilizing a warp-knitted loop structure, and improves the elastic recovery.
According to the technical scheme provided by the invention, the manufacturing process of the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
(1) selecting materials: 60-85% of cotton yarn and 15-40% of PBT filament;
(2) warping: warping cotton yarns and PBT filaments on a warping machine;
(3) weaving: weaving by a tricot machine, wherein the threading mode of the guide bar is as follows:
GB1 bar 1 threading 1 empty cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-1//,
GB2 bar 1 threading 1 empty cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-1/1-1/1-0/0-1//,
GB4 guide bar full penetration PBT filament, the organizational structure is 1-2/1-0/1-2/1-0//;
or,
GB1 bar 1 threading 2 hollow cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-1//,
GB2 guide bar 1 hollow 1 threading 1 hollow cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-1/1-0/0-1/1-1//,
GB3 bar 2 threading 1 cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-1/1-1/1-0/0-1//,
GB4 guide bar full penetration PBT filament, the organizational structure is 1-2/1-0/1-2/1-0//;
(4) and (3) after finishing: and (3) sequentially singeing, boiling and bleaching, dyeing and sizing the woven grey cloth, and cooling to obtain the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric.
Further, the cotton yarn is 21-60 s cotton yarn; the PBT filament adopts 40-75D filament.
Further, the boiling and bleaching process in the step (4) comprises four stages: the first stage is boiled and bleached at 98 ℃ for 45 minutes, the second stage is washed with hot water at 80 ℃ for 10 minutes, the third stage is washed with hot water at 60 ℃ for 10 minutes, and the fourth stage is washed with cold water at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes.
Further, the shaping process temperature in the step (4) is 150-200 ℃.
Further, the gram weight of the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric is 220-320 g/m2。
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the fabric of the invention has moderate bidirectional elasticity and gram weight: the last guide bar fully penetrating the PBT filament is used for running two needles and warp flattening, so that the cloth cover generates elasticity in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction, and the gram weight of a finished product can be controlled to be 320g/m2The following;
(2) the dimensional stability of the invention is between that of woven products and weft-knitted products: the extensibility of the warp-knitted fabric is superior to that of a woven product because the loop columns and the loop arcs of the warp-knitted fabric can be transferred when being stretched by a longitudinal external force; the wales of the warp knitting structure are connected through the extension lines, so that the warp knitting structure is different from the sinker loop connection of the weft knitting structure, and the warp knitting structure has no sinker loop length release of the weft knitting structure when being stretched by transverse external force, so that the dimensional stability of the warp knitting fabric is superior to that of a weft knitting product;
(3) the invention has soft hand feeling and obvious twill effect: the chain lack-pad composite weave is woven by cotton yarns which are punched in the front comb belt in an empty mode, warp yarns at the pad lack position protrude out of the back face of the process to form twill floating lines, and twill concave points are formed at the looping position of the chain stitch, so that the twill effect is formed;
(4) the invention is comfortable to wear and beautiful: the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted twill fabric is light and comfortable, does not have a bound feeling when being worn, and does not arch and deform.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a guide bar weave lay yarn movement diagram of a cotton polyester interwoven warp knitted twill fabric in the first embodiment.
FIG. 2 is a guide bar weave inlay yarn movement diagram of the second example of the second cotton polyester interwoven warp-knitted second upper twill fabric and lower twill fabric.
Detailed Description
The invention is further illustrated by the following specific figures and examples.
The first embodiment is as follows:
a cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric comprises the following components: 72.3 percent of 32s compact spinning cotton yarn and 27.7 percent of 75D/72F PBT filament, wherein the warp yarn at the position of the fabric lacking the pad protrudes on the reverse side of the process to form twill floating lines, and the twill concave points are formed at the position of the knitted chain loop, thereby forming the twill effect.
The manufacturing process of the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
1. a preparation process: selecting 21-60 s compact spinning cotton yarn and 40-75D PBT filament;
2. the warping process comprises the following steps: temperature and humidity at the warping site: the temperature is 25 +/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 65 +/-5%, and the high and stable temperature and humidity are favorable for the stability of the twist of the cotton yarn and the softness of the surface of the cotton yarn, so that the cotton yarn is prevented from being entangled with each other and the production of warp knitting products is facilitated;
according to the conventional warping operation flow, the metal rod is used for separating the metal rod into two layers at intervals, the static electricity eliminating device and the photoelectric hair feather detecting device are closed, the oiling device is adopted for coating the liquid wax on the surface layer of the cotton yarn, the hair feather and flying during warping and weaving are reduced, and the softness of the cotton yarn is improved.
And (4) warping the PBT filaments according to a conventional warping operation flow.
Warping process parameters are shown in table 1:
TABLE 1
3. The weaving process comprises the following steps:
the method adopts the following models: tricot machine HKS4EL, model No.: 28 needles/25.4 mm, width: 472.4mm (186 inches);
the warp knitting structure is as follows:
GB1 comb: 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-1//, 1 crosses 1 empty;
GB2 comb: 1-1/1-1/1-0/0-1//, 1 crosses 1 empty;
GB4 comb: 1-2/1-0/1-2/1-0//, full penetration.
Wherein, the GB1 comb, the GB2 comb and the GB3 comb are penetrated with 21 s-60 s compact spinning cotton yarns, and the GB4 comb is penetrated with 40-75D PBT filaments;
inputting the digital number of the tissue lapping, the let-off amount, the drawing density and the like into a computer display screen of a control cabinet, storing, loading a computer file and starting the machine.
Flying cotton accumulation can be generated after cotton yarns are opened for a certain time, a machine station is arranged to be cleaned once after the cotton yarns are produced for 8 hours, and the flying cotton on the four guide bars and the needle bed after the four guide bars are divided into yarns is absorbed; and the filoplume on the cotton yarn can drop in the needle groove of the needle bed and the needle core groove of the knitting needle along with the back-and-forth swing and the left-and-right transverse movement of the guide bar, and the needle groove and the needle core groove are cleaned once after 30 days of production.
And (4) obtaining grey cloth after weaving, weighing the blank according to the required cropping length, bagging and warehousing the blank.
4. The finishing process comprises the following steps:
firstly, singeing;
boiling and bleaching: process stage 1: boiling and bleaching for 45 minutes at 98 ℃; process stage 2: washing with hot water at 80 deg.C for 10 min; process stage 3: washing with hot water at 60 deg.C for 10 min; process stage 4: washing with cold water at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes;
③ dyeing: dyeing cotton yarns and terylene by a conventional one-bath method;
and fourthly, shaping: shaping by using a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, and meanwhile, the required width and gram weight of the cloth are controlled;
cooling;
5. and (5) inspecting, weighing, packaging and warehousing finished products.
Through the process, the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted twill fabric with soft hand feeling can be obtained.
The specific parameters of example one are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Example two:
a cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric comprises the following components: the 32s compact spinning cotton yarn is 83.4%, the 75D/72F PBT filament yarn is 16.6%, the warp yarn at the position where the fabric lacks the pad protrudes on the reverse side of the process to form twill floating lines, and the twill concave points are formed at the position where the knitted chain is looped, so that the twill effect is formed.
The manufacturing process of the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
1. a preparation process: selecting 21-60 s compact spinning cotton yarn and 40-75D PBT filament;
2. the warping process comprises the following steps: temperature and humidity at the warping site: the temperature is 25 +/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 65 +/-5%, and the high and stable temperature and humidity are favorable for the stability of the twist of the cotton yarn and the softness of the surface of the cotton yarn, so that the cotton yarn is prevented from being entangled with each other and the production of warp knitting products is facilitated;
according to the conventional warping operation flow, the metal rod is used for separating the metal rod into two layers at intervals, the static electricity eliminating device and the photoelectric hair feather detecting device are closed, the oiling device is adopted for coating the liquid wax on the surface layer of the cotton yarn, the hair feather and flying during warping and weaving are reduced, and the softness of the cotton yarn is improved.
And (4) warping the PBT filaments according to a conventional warping operation flow.
Warping process parameters are shown in table 3:
TABLE 3
3. Weaving process
The method adopts the following models: tricot machine HKS4EL, model No.: 28 needles/25.4 mm, width: 472.4mm (186 inches);
the warp knitting structure is as follows:
GB1 comb: 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-1//, 1 crosses 2 holes;
GB2 comb: 1-1/1-0/0-1/1-1//, 1 empty 1 through 1 empty;
GB3 comb: 1-1/1-1/1-0/0-1//, 2 empty 1 punch;
GB4 comb: 1-2/1-0/1-2/1-0//, full penetration;
raw materials and a threading mode:
GB1 comb, GB2 comb, GB3 comb: compact spinning of cotton yarn for 21 s-60 s, GB4 comb: 40-75D PBT filament;
inputting the digital number of the tissue lapping, the let-off amount, the drawing density and the like into a computer display screen of a control cabinet, storing, loading a computer file and starting the machine.
Flying cotton accumulation can be generated after cotton yarns are opened for a certain time, a machine station is arranged to be cleaned once after the cotton yarns are produced for 8 hours, and the flying cotton on the four guide bars and the needle bed after the four guide bars are divided into yarns is absorbed; and the filoplume on the cotton yarn can drop in the needle groove of the needle bed and the needle core groove of the knitting needle along with the back-and-forth swing and the left-and-right transverse movement of the guide bar, and the needle groove and the needle core groove are cleaned once after 30 days of production.
And (4) obtaining grey cloth after weaving, weighing the blank according to the required cropping length, bagging and warehousing the blank.
4. Finishing process
Firstly, singeing;
boiling and bleaching: process stage 1: boiling and bleaching for 45 minutes at 98 ℃; process stage 2: washing with hot water at 80 deg.C for 10 min; process stage 3: washing with hot water at 60 deg.C for 10 min; process stage 4: washing with cold water at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes;
③ dyeing: dyeing cotton yarns and terylene by a conventional one-bath method;
and fourthly, shaping: shaping by using a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, and meanwhile, the required width and gram weight of the cloth are controlled;
cooling;
5. and (5) inspecting, weighing, packaging and warehousing finished products.
Through the process, the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted twill fabric with soft hand feeling can be obtained.
The data ranges given in the above process parameters are all data ranges obtained by specific practices, all of which have certain feasibility, and the present invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples.
Specific parameters of example two are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4
The principle of the invention is that a front comb belt is arranged on a tricot machine, cotton yarns are woven and knitted in a way of being penetrated in the air, a pad missing composite structure is formed, warp yarns at the pad missing position protrude out of the reverse side of the process to form twill floating lines, and twill concave points are formed at the looping position of a knitted chain, so that a twill effect is formed; the last guide bar fully penetrating the PBT filament is used for walking two needles and leveling the warp, so that the cloth cover generates comfortable elasticity in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction; the technical back side is used as the front side of the fabric for clothes.
Claims (5)
1. A manufacturing process of a cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) selecting materials: 60-85% of cotton yarn and 15-40% of PBT filament;
(2) warping: warping cotton yarns and PBT filaments on a warping machine;
(3) weaving: weaving by a tricot machine, wherein the threading mode of the guide bar is as follows:
GB1 bar 1 threading 1 empty cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-1//,
GB2 bar 1 threading 1 empty cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-1/1-1/1-0/0-1//,
GB4 guide bar full penetration PBT filament, the organizational structure is 1-2/1-0/1-2/1-0//;
or,
GB1 bar 1 threading 2 hollow cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-1//,
GB2 guide bar 1 hollow 1 threading 1 hollow cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-1/1-0/0-1/1-1//,
GB3 bar 2 threading 1 cotton yarn with weave structure of 1-1/1-1/1-0/0-1//,
GB4 guide bar full penetration PBT filament, the organizational structure is 1-2/1-0/1-2/1-0//;
(4) and (3) after finishing: and (3) sequentially singeing, boiling and bleaching, dyeing and sizing the woven grey cloth, and cooling to obtain the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric.
2. The process for manufacturing the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the cotton yarn is 21-60 s cotton yarn; the PBT filament adopts 40-75D filament.
3. The process for manufacturing the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the boiling and bleaching process in the step (4) comprises four stages: the first stage is boiled and bleached at 98 ℃ for 45 minutes, the second stage is washed with hot water at 80 ℃ for 10 minutes, the third stage is washed with hot water at 60 ℃ for 10 minutes, and the fourth stage is washed with cold water at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes.
4. The process for manufacturing the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the process temperature for shaping in the step (4) is 150-200 ℃.
5. The process for manufacturing the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the gram weight of the cotton-polyester interwoven warp-knitted fabric is 220-320 g/m2。
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