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3 in 1💰Get Ready to WOW with These Colorful Flower Coasters for Coffee Cups ✔Motif,Coaster,Flower. | 3 in 1💰Get Ready to WOW with These Colorful Flower Coasters for Coffee Cups ✔Motif,Coaster,Flower. | By Crochet | Facebook

101K views · 5.9K reactions | How I turned a men’s button-up into a baby romper so Rickey Lane Jasper II and Maslen could twin for Father’s Day 🥹👔❤️ This easy upcycle was such a fun project and the cutest ever!#diybabyclothes #babyromper #handmadewithlove #fathersdaygift #upcycledfashion #sewingtutorial | Handmade by Karly | Facebook

So Beautiful And So Easy🥰Watch Me Crochet This Stunning Purple Coaster! | So Beautiful And So Easy🥰Watch Me Crochet This Stunning Purple Coaster! | By Crochet | Facebook

403K views · 7.7K reactions | "Jika tidak hari ini mungkin minggu depan... Jika tidak minggu ini mungkin bulan depan..." pasti bacanya sambil nyanyi 🫢😆 Happy #crochet 🥰 | By Miu | Scope white with Maha so Allah every nice Guys.

Wow Wonderful.!💥👏You'll love this one. Crochet Making #knit #knitting #crochet | Wow Wonderful.!💥👏You'll love this one. Crochet Making #knit #knitting #crochet | By Crochet | Facebook

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152K views · 827 reactions | She made her own T-shirt | She made her own T-shirt (parody Hack) | By The Ryan | So that's just glue on there. Yup, Just glue. And it's washable so it doesn't stay on there and it also doesn't dry purple. Okay. Okay. Then we need the vinegar based let's see. And you wanna soak it in this. Close as possible. Amen. Amen. That's pretty good, Okay and then we need to get this in the microwave. you're putting it in the microwave. Absolutely. Okay. see that. Lay it in there. Oh there can you close that for me? close it 30 seconds. It doesn't take 30 seconds, but uh you'll be able to see it go. It's really cool. Okay. Wait wait wait. Okay, it's a bit warm. And it transfers on. It feels like chip bag, It does feel like a chip bag, but it's it's part of it.

Crochet Worry Worm Pattern | Random Acts of Crochet Kindness | Learn how to Crochet a Worry Worm! Super cute and super fast to make. The perfect crochet pocket pal - tell him your worries and he will will share the... | By Hooked | Today I'm going to show you how to crochet these super cute and super fast Worry Worms. So I first noticed these Worry Worms popping up in the random acts of crochet kindness Facebook group. People have been making these little worms and leaving them out for people to find. Now I love doing the Random Acts of Crochet Kindness and when Laurelin from Snuffle Bean Yarn found a Worry Worm herself out in the wild I got totally inspired to some just off the back of how she reacted to finding them. It was adorable. So these little worms are great for that but of course you can use these little chaps for anything that you fancy. Special thanks go to Sam Cloud for allowing me to film her Worry Worm Pattern which is what I'm going to be showing you today and also a special nod to the Random Acts of Crochet Kindness Facebook group and Susan Macon who may these little tags that you can download and include in your packets. So with your chosen yarn and your corresponding hook size pop a slipknot onto your hook. Then we are going to chain thirty. Once you have your 30 chains we're going to skip this very first chain. Remember this loop on your hook does not count as anything. Skip this very first chain and pop a slip stitch into the second chain. Then into the next chain we're going to place four single crochet stitches. All into that exact same chain. One. To three, Four. Repeat that into the very next chain. Four single crochet stitches all into that very same space. One, two, three, and four. Now you'll notice your work is already starting to curl around. That is exactly what you want. So what we're going to do in the remaining chains is pop four single crochet into each one. But stop before that very last chain. So four single crochet in all these chains except this very last one. So that's my last set of four single crochet in the chains and I've got one chain remaining. Now you should have a nice sort of curly cue formed at the bottom. If yours hasn't curled you can give it a bit of a twist or wrap it around your finger. And then we're going to form the head of these little worryworms. So into this very last chain we are going to work ten double crochet stitches. All into that exact same chain. Once you have your ten double crochet we're going to slip stitch into that chain as well. Don't worry if it stretches the hole a little bit. That works quite well as a worried looking mouth. Then chain one. Snip your yarn leaving an end to weave in. Pull that through. Pull it tight and weave in your two ends. Once your ends are woven in you can snip those tails off. Now for the eyes I like to use self adhesive googly eyes. You can of course use whatever you want. French knots or little felt circles or you could just embroider some on with yarn. But I like using these tiny little googly eyes. So I'm just going to go ahead and attach these to the face of the worm. And your little worryworm is complete.

Crochet Chunky Mesh Scarf | Got a couple of hours? That's all you will need to crochet this chunky mesh scarf! 😍🧶 | By Hooked | Today I'm going to be showing you how to crochet this super easy and super duper fast chunky mesh scarf. Now when I say quick I'm not joking. This entire scarf from start to finish including doing things like weaving in my ends and adding new balls of yarn took a tiny tiny smidgen over two and a half hours. That's it. I even took a screenshot of my stopwatch on my phone to show you how long exactly this thing took. Two and a half hours. That's all I needed. Now if I had made this scarf slightly shorter then it would have been an under two hour make. It's so easy and so fast. So what you're going to need to make this scarf is as follows. You're going to need some chunky proper chunky yarn. Now I used the Scheepjes Namaste yarn. I used just over two and a half balls. So you're going to need approximately 250 metres of nice thick chunky yarn. The colour I used for my scarf is the shade "Plow". You're also going to need a nine millimetre crochet hook. A pair of scissors and a large eye darning needle for dealing with those ends. To begin pop a slip knot onto your hook. Now if you want to change the width of your scarf the pattern multiple is two plus six. Now all that means is that you would chain in multiples of two two two until your project was the width you wanted it to be and then add six chains at the very end. For my scarf with my nine millimeter hook and my chunky yarn I chained twenty-six. Once you have the desired width of your scarf we're going to begin by working into the sixth chain from our hook. Now this loop on your hook does not count as anything. You only want to count the fully formed chains hanging down below. So it's one, two, three, four, five, six. Now for my scarf I also worked into the back bumps. So if you look you have these little V shapes and if you turn your chain over you have these little little bumps at the back. This is the loop I go under for my scarf. However that's completely optional. You just go into whichever bit of the chain you find easiest. But for me it's a back bump. I'm still holding onto that sixth chain. And into that sixth chain as I rotate it round. To find a little back bump there. We're going to work one double crochet stitch. So that's yarn over. Go under the back bump. Or as I say whichever part of the chain you find easiest to get into. Then yarn over pull your yarn back through, you'll have three loops on your hook, yarn over, pull through two, yarn over, pull through the final two and that is your double crochet formed. Now these skipped chains here count as a double crochet and chain one but don't worry about that just yet. We'll come back to that on row two. Now we're going to chain one skip a chain and into the next chain, work a double crochet. Can be a bit tricky working into this chain so if you need to use your fingers like you'll see that I do. That's absolutely fine. Chain one. Skip a chain. Double crochet into the next. We're going to do this all the way along. Chain one, skip a chain, double crochet in the next. Keep repeating this all the way down your chain. Chain one, skip a chain, double crochet in the next. So I've reached the very end of my chain here. You should be ending with a double crochet into that very last chain right by your slip knot. So your first row should look just like this. For row two, row two is the pattern repeat row. But don't worry I'll go over it a couple of times just so you're super confident moving forwards. Alright so we're going to chain three. And turn your work. Just flip it over like the page of a book. Now we're going to skip these spaces in between your stitches. We're not going to work into those at all. We're only going to work into the top of the stitches from the row below. These double crochets. So that chain three at the beginning counts as a double crochet and a chain one. So it's like a mock stitch. So we are going to leap straight into making a double crochet. Now we're going to work our double crochet into the top of the double crochet from the row below. So if you rotate your work just a little you'll see you've got the V of the double crochet for the row below. You'll also have the V from your chain one but we're skipping right over that. And we're going to work under both loops of the V of the double crochet for the row below. So work your double crochet underneath both loops. And just as before, we're going to chain one. Skip a chain. So skipping right over this chain one space and work a double crochet into the next stitch which will be the top of your double crochet from the row below. So your double crochets will be nicely stacking on top of one another. Chain one, skip the chain space and work your double crochet into the top of the double crochet from the row below. And we're going to work this until we have run out of double crochets to work into the top of and then stop when you get to this end one and I'll show you how we work into this end row when dealing with these chains. So chain one, skip the chain one space and work a double crochet into the top of the double crochet from the row below. All the way across until you run out of double crochets to work into. So I have just worked my double crochet into the last full double crochet from the row below and I still have this little chain area at the very end. So I'll show you how we tackle that. We chain one and if you look at your chains we're going to skip one of the chains. Just that first one there right next to your double crochet and we're going to work a double crochet to the second chain along. If it's easier for you to rotate round to see your little Vs skip one and work a double crochet into this chain. Now I tend to try and get two loops if possible. You want to try and find a spot. Generally it's this inside part of the chain here. And that's where you want to work your double crochet. So ideally you want two loops of that chain. It's bit tight. You want two loops of the chain. It's just a bit sturdier. Now if you can't do that don't worry. Just shove it on in there. You can see I caught two loops there. One two. Just shove it into a ever bit works for you. Ultimately this is just going to be a nice super squishy scarf. So if the sides aren't as sturdy as perhaps you'd like for like a blanket. That's fine because like I say it's just a scarf. So you don't need to stress. This is an enjoyable quick project. Not something you need to worry about being absolutely perfect on. Okay so this is how you'll be looking at the end of row two. That was the pattern repeat row and we're going to do this row over and over and over again until your scarf is the length that you want it to be. We'll go over it one more time. So for row 3, row three is simply a repeat of row two. So we're going to chain three Turn your work. And work a double crochet into the top of the double crochet from the row below skipping over these chain one spaces. Then chain one. Skip the chain one space and double crochet into the top of the double crochet from the row below. We're going to work this chain one skip one double crochet all the way along until you run out of true double crochet stitches which will be one from the end over here. Once you've reached the other side and you've run out of double crochet stitches to work into, you'll be left with just these little chains at the end. So to finish, chain one, skip one of these chains, ignore this very first one and work into the second. So now we only have three chains so you're going to be aiming for that middle chain. So skip a chain and work into the second of those three chains from the row below. Again try and catch 2 loops. Take a moment just to ensure all your stitches are stacking up on top of each other. And repeat this row back and forth until you run out of yarn or you need to change to add a new ball of yarn. And I'm going to show you how to do that right in the middle here. So chain three. Turn. Double crochet into that first double crochet stitch. So skip over the chain one space. Chain one, skip the chain space, double crochet into the top of the double crochet stitch. If you were running out of yarn and you needed to bring in your second ball of yarn (I'm going to show you with a separate colour just for some high contrast) This is how you join a new ball of yarn halfway through your project. So you want to make sure that you've still got a decent long amount left because you're going to want a nice long tail for weaving in. So I'm going to chain one and then I'm going to begin my double crochet stitch but I'm going to change to my new yarn and this is exactly the same method for if you were changing colour. So I'm going to yarn over and go into the top of the double crochet. Going to yarn over and pull through the first two and then I'm going to stop. Then I'm going to drop that tail and I'm going to bring in my new ball of yarn. Now again leaving a tail that you can weave in. I'm just going to put the loop over my hook and draw that through those two remaining loops on my hook. Then drop that tail. Keep it at the back of your work for a minute. Chain one. And continue as normal with your double crochets. Now do just a couple of stitches for a second. So that's one. It's chain one. Do another one. Then I'm just going to pause crochet for a minute. And I'm just going to pop in a little knot. Don't pull it too tight because if you pull it really really tightly, you're going to distort your stitches on the front here. But I've just done a gentle knot and then I'm just going to tie it again. Especially when working with a sort of roving type yarn you definitely want a secure knot because it's sort of it wants to come undone. Then those two tails are secure and you can continue crochetting your project with your new ball of yarn attached. Now if you wanted to change colour obviously you don't want to be changing colour midway through a row. The best place to do that is at the end of the row. Now the method is exactly the same. So I've just chained one and I'm going to work my very last stitch into the second of those three chains. But again I'm going to stop before my final yarn over and draw through two. So when I've still got two loops again I'm going to drop the old colour. Snip it leaving a nice long tail for weaving in. Bring in my new colour and the method is exactly the same. Finish the stitch with the new colour. And then continue on to your next row. Work a couple of stitches first. And then gently knot your two tails together. Just a gentle knot so you don't distort things. And then continue crochet. So once your scarf is the length that you want it to be to finish your project you simply chain one after your very final stitch and then we're going to snip our yarn again leaving a nice long tail for weaving in. Then pull that up through and out and pull it tight. And then grab a large eye needle and we can tackle these ends. So to weave in your ends when dealing with chunky yarn it can be very difficult to to thread that needle. So what I like to do is fold the yarn over my needle and pull it and pinch it tight. Then that tight little loop is what I put through the needle. Then it's nicely on your needle and we can go ahead and weave in our ends. Now there's no real science to this. What you want to be doing is working down through your stitches back along up down and weaving them in and out until you run out of yarn. So the first thing I do is just come down great on this roving yarn. You can really see what I'm doing here. I just come down some of these loops. So I've just put my need right through the centre of that stitch. And I'm just pulling it down nice and snug. Then I'm going to run this yarn tail in up and around. But always sort of going through catching loops as I go. So I'm going through the chain space. Then underneath the base of my stitches. Catch the loops of some of those chains. As you can see there's no massive science to it. Under some more loops at the bottom of a stitch and then maybe I'll go up. I'll pick up some more loops of the stitch itself and pop out at the top. Go through that next chain, catching some loops as I go. And then I'll come back down the stitch. Literally just going in and out. Sometimes I even come through the stitch. Especially with this roving yarn. It's got a real tendency to want to untwist. So just keep going until your ends are woven in. You want to do this with all of them. Where you've changed colour, added new balls of yarn, and your very starting tail over here. Once you've woven in these ends you can go ahead and snip those tiny little excess bits off. Give it a little stretch into shape. And your chunky mesh scarf is complete. So I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial. I hope you go on to make these really lovely quick and fast scarfs for yourself and until next time. Happy crochet. Bye!

Crochet C2C Open Block Stitch | Have you ever tried this fun variation of the standard Corner to Corner Block Stitch before? 😍🧶 | By Hooked | Today I'm going to be showing you how to crochet the corner to corner open block stitch. This is a fantastic stitch for blankets. It's really nice and lightweight and airy. In this video I'm going to show you how to crochet the corner to corner open block stitch itself and then how to prepare your piece so you can go on to add any border that you so wish. To begin pop a slip knot onto your hook. Now every row for the corner to corner open block stitch starts with a solid block. So to form a solid block you want to chain six. One, two, three, four five, six. Now we're going to skip the first three chains. The loop on your hook does not count anything. You only want to count these fully formed chains hanging down below. So one, two, three. We're going to skip those and we're going to work into these last three. So the fourth, 5th and sixth chains. Into those last three chains, we're going to work one double crochet in each. So skip three chains and work one double crochet into the remaining three. So that's one, then into the next chain, a double crochet. And into that last chain, work a double crochet. So we have just formed a solid block. We will start and end every row with a solid block. For row two again we're going to start with a solid block. So chain six just straight from where you are. Chain six. One. Two. Three. Five, six. And just as before, we're going to skip the first three chains and into the fourth, 5th and sixth chains. We're going to work one double crochet in each. So skip the first three and work a double crochet into the last three chains. Two and three. So we formed our first solid block. Now we need to join to this block that we made in the row before. And to do that we're just going to flip it up. Not turn. Flip. So just flip this block up. And then into the chain three space so this very top space here on the block that we flipped if I put it back down you'll see you have double crochet, double crochet, double crochet and then your skipped chains so flip it up and that space of the chains is where we're going to be working so into this gap here at the top of that block from the row below we're going to work a slip stitch so just pop your hook into the space catch the yarn at the bring it through the space and through the loop on your hook to connect them. Now to finish this row we need to form a solid block. So we're going to chain three. One, two, and three and then into this same space work three double crochets. One. Two and three. Every solid block is formed with three chains and three double crochets. So for your very first block of the row your three chains are formed when we skip them and when we're working solid blocks we chain up three and work three double crochets into the same space. For row three row three is where we start forming the open spaces. Now every single row starts with a solid block. It also ends with a solid block. So we always want to have a solid block at the start and finish of each row. So for row three, the open block row. We're going to do the same thing that we're going to do for every single row moving forwards. Chain six, one, two, three, four, five, six, and we're going to form a solid block. So skip the first three chains and work one double crochet into each of those remaining three chains. So the fourth, fifth, and sixth chain from your hook each get a double crochet. Then flip up. So we're just flipping up each time. We're not turning our work. We just flip up. So once we've flipped up into the chain three space of the block directly next to you we work a slip stitch to join it. So we have started with a solid block for row three. Now we are going to form the open block. And the open block is nice and simple. You just chain six. Three, four, five, and six. Then find the next block up. So we're moving up to this next block and we're going to join with a slip stitch into that chain three space right at the top of the block. Just join with a slip stitch. So we now have our open space formed. Now to end the row, we need a solid block. So chain three, one, two, three, and work three double crochets into that same chain space. One, two, and three. Now after every open block row, so the repeat of row three, we need a solid block row. So we're going to be alternating between two different types of row. Open row followed by a solid row. So for row four, row four is a solid row. Now regardless of what row you're on, we start and end with a solid block. So chain six, one, two, three, five, six. Skip those first three chains and into the remaining three chains, work one double crochet in each. To form a solid block. Then flip your work up. So just flip it up and join with a slip stitch into the chain three space of the block from the row below. Be right next to you. So row four, solid row. So we're going to form solid blocks all the way along. So chain three and work three double crochets into that same chain space where you slip stitch to join. Then you'll have your chain six open block right next to you. And to join we're just going to slip stitch into this space. So just slip stitch straight into that chain six space. And now we need to fill in this next solid block. So chain three, one, two, three, and we're going to work into this chain six open space with three double crochets to complete our solid block. So one, three. Then slip stitch into the chain three space of the block next to you. And then to end we need one more solid block as we are increasing so we still want our project to grow by an extra block each row so we're going this way so don't forget to do this very last block so we're going to chain three and into the top of this row that's forming here to the chain three space work three double crochets two, and three. So we're going to keep repeating row three and row four. So open row followed by a solid row. We're going to keep doing this until your project is the width that you want it to be. Now you want to end on a row three. Your open row. So once you've got to the right width you need to be ending on an open block row before the decrease. So those of you that or a dab hand at the corner to corner technique you go ahead and repeat rows 3 & 4; end on a row three when your project is a width that you want it to be and meet me back here for the decrease. For those of you that would like a little bit of extra reminder I'm going to do a recap of row three and four for you now. So to repeat row three again chain six. One two three four and six. We start and end every row with a solid block. So skip the first three chains and work one double crochet into the remaining three chains. So each chain gets a double crochet. One and three. Flip your work up and join with a slip stitch. To the row below. Now we're on an open block row. So chain six. One, two, three, four, five, six. Then slip stitch to the next block. So we're forming that open space. Narrow three goes solid, open, solid. So then after your chain six open block, we need a solid block. So create a solid block by chaining three and working three double crochets into that same chain space. Then slip stitch to join. So solid, open, solid. Next is an open. So chain six. One, two, three, four, five, six. And join with a slip stitch. Solid, open, solid, open and we end with a solid. So chain three and work three double crochets into that chain space. After an open row we follow with a solid row. This is how we're going to work until we have the width we want. Remembering when you get to the width you want you want to be ending on an open row before we start decreasing. So every row regardless of whether it's solid or open starts and ends with a solid block. So chain six and then skip the first three chains and work one double crochet into the remaining three. One, two and three. Flip your work up and slip stitch to join. Now as this is a repeat of row four, it's solid blocks all the way along. And remembering your solid block is three chains and three double crochets into the same chain space. Then once we've formed our solid block you slip stitch to join. And then you form a new solid block. Chain three and three double crochet. Slip Stitch to join. And form a new solid block. Slip Stitch to join. New solid block. Slip Stitch to join. And work one more solid block. If you are ever in doubt as to which row you are currently on, we've just completed row number six. And the reason I know that is these blocks along the side, I have six of them. And the blocks going up the top. One, two, three, four, five, six. So if you're ever stuck as to which row you are on, count your side blocks and that will tell you which row you're on. So we're going to keep repeating open row followed by a solid row. Keep going until the project is the width you want it to be and end on an open row. Do not end on a solid row. We're going to end on an open row. Really quick recap for you just one more time of these two rows. We've just done a solid row so now we need to do an open row. Chain six. And because every row starts with a solid block, we're going to skip the first three chains and work one double crochet into those remaining three chains. Flip your work up and slip stitch to join. So we started with a solid block. Now we're on the open row. So we're going to do open block, solid block. Open block, solid block. So the open block is six chains. And slip stitch to join. So open followed by a solid block. Solid block is three chains and three double crochets. Slip stitch to join, and then create an open block. So six chains. Open block followed by a solid block. So chain three and three double crochet. Then chain six for your next open block. And end with a solid block. This is the row you want to end on once your project is the width you want it to be. If your project isn't the width you want it to be yet we follow with a solid row. Which is a repeat of row four. So we always start with chain six. And forming a solid block at the very start of every single row. Flip your work up and slip stitch to join. We're on a solid row so every block we make will be solid. So keep repeating an open row followed by a solid row and end on an open row once your project is the width that you want it to be. Once your project is the width that you want it to be and we have ended on an open row you're ready to begin the decreasing. For my blanket I made mine rectangular so I'm going to show you in this video how we make a rectangle. For these decreased rows it's handy to have a stitch marker just so you can easily identify which side is the side that you're decreasing on. This will make more sense in just a moment. So when forming a rectangle what we want to do is now we have the width. We want to maintain the width whilst growing the length. So we need to keep one side short and flat whilst the other side continues to grow. The short flat side is going to be your decreased side. And that's the side you're going to want to mark with a stitch marker. So the very first decrease row is chain one. And then we are going to turn our work. So we're not flipping upside down anymore. We are simply turning like the page of a book. Then under these three stitches, your three double crochets, the tops of them, we're going to work a slip stitch under each one. So one, just creeping along. Two, with little slip stitches so I don't add any height. And three. Because this is going to be my short flat side. Then I'm going to slip stitch into the chain space. So I've worked four slip stitches. Now this would be the side to pop your stitch marker in. You can pop it in wherever under one of those slip stitches you made or the very end of it. Really doesn't matter. This is just a visual guide for you. So that you know this is the decreased side. So every row begins with a solid block and the decreasing sections no different. So we're going to form our first solid block. So chain three and work a three double crochet into that chain space. Then slip stitch into your open block. Now because we are following an open block every single one of these blocks is going to be solid. As we always alternate between open and solid rows. So all we've done here is we have just crept up not added any more length and we're just going straight in to a normal solid row. So we're going to chain three. Work three double crochets into the chain space below to form our solid blocks. Slip stitch to join and form your next solid block. Form solid blocks all the way up the row and meet me when you're ready to finish this first decrease row. So I've worked my way across the project and I'm over to the other side I've just formed my last solid block into the space of my last open block below and because we're forming a rectangle this is where this stitch marker is super handy this is the decrease side and to form a rectangle we want to keep going in this direction not adding any length on one side but continuing to grow it on the other so we have a decrease side and then we have an increase side. If you were forming a square this would be the point at which you stop. Because for a square you want to keep both sides the same length. So if you were doing a square you would stop at this end joined block and then do exactly what we did on this decrease row, chain one, slip stitch across and then form your blocks, stop, turn, slip stitch like that. So you'd be filling in this section. However for a rectangle we want to keep going. So to finish your first decrease row of the solid blocks we're going to form a new block here. So we're going to keep working just as you did in all these other rows and work one more solid block into this outside edge to continue growing the length. So when you look at your project and you count these side blocks along your decreased side, for me it's one, two, three, four, five, six, 7, eight, nine on this small little sample. Nine is the width. That's what I want to maintain. But because I'm making a rectangle I'm growing it I actually have one, two, three, four, five, six, 7, eight, nine, ten. I'm continuing to grow the length. So this side remains at nine whilst this side continues growing. For the second row we have just done a solid block so now we need an open block. So we're going to chain six and start with a solid block just as you have every other row. Flip your work up. And join with your slip stitch. Now we're going to create our open rows with our chain six followed by a solid block. Chain six solid block. Just as you did on these increased rows. You're now going to be working back across your project making your open rows. So chain six That's your open block followed by a solid block. Work this all the way across until we get to the other side. So I've just wiped my weight along the side. I've just done a chain six open block here and I have one space left to fill in. Now we end every row with a solid block. So this is my solid block and I'm slip stitching to join. And this little stitch marker and the fact it's an open row tells me I am on the decreased side. So I do not want to go on and build another block. I'm done. This is the decreased side. Over here this is the increased side. So again for the next set of rows we're going to do the same thing that we did in the last one. We're going to chain one. We're going to turn our work like the page of a book. And then you're going to slip stitch under the top of these three double crochets. So just work a slip stitch. One. Two. Three. Then slip stitch into the chain space. So we're now ready to do our next row. So we're going to be repeating those last two rows over and over as your project grows. So we start every row we've slip stitched into the chain space on this decreased side with a solid block regardless of which row it is always start with a solid block. And then we're going to form solid blocks all the way up as we work over to the increased side. Once you've filled in your last open block You want to end by forming a new block. This is the length side. So don't forget to add that extra solid block on the top every time we come back. So you can see we're maintaining the width. The width is the same. One, two, three, four, five, six, 7, eight, nine blocks. One, two, three, four, five, six, 7, eight, nine blocks. If we count these open rows, we've got one, two, three, four, five, six, 7, eight, nine. So you're maintaining the width with your decreased side. But the length is growing. One, two, three, four, five, six, 7, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12. So keep repeating these two rows. Your open row followed by your solid row. Your solid row on the way back up. We'll always end with that extra block on the increased side. For the open row working our way back over to this decreased side. We start by forming a new block. So we're going to chain six. Form your new solid block Cos if we're still on the increased side so we're still forming new blocks along this side. Flip your project up. And then form your open row with your chain six spaces. So you have your chain six open block followed by a solid block. So we've got a chain six followed by a solid block all the way back over to the decreased side. So work this all the way back over to the decreased side. We're going to continue these two rows until your project is the length that you want it to be. Once it is the length you want it to be again we're going to end on this open row before we begin the next set of decreases to bring your rectangle back down. So keep alternating between your solid row up to the increased side and then your open row with your chain sixes back to the decreased side. Once it is the length that you want it to be and we will have ended again on an open row. Now you're ready to start filling this in to get it to meet back at a point. So from this point on once you have the length that you want we're going to treat both sides as a decreased side because we do not want to add length on either side. So you've got the right length of your project that you want and you have ended on this open row. Now we can begin decreasing on both sides. So as we're on a decreased side and we're going to be on decreased sides for both moving forwards we chain one turn like the page of a book and slip stitch under the tops of those three double crochets. Trying to keep your yarn on your hook. Try that one again. There we go. One three slip stitches and slip stitch into the chain three space. You can go ahead and remove your stitch marker now if you want to. Because from this point on both sides will be decreased sides. So we're going to start the same way as we have been. We're going to chain three and create a solid block into that chain three space. Slip stitch into the chain six and then we're going to form solid blocks all the way back up to the top now stop when you have filled in that very last open block we do not want to continue adding any length we're going to stop at this point So I'm working my final solid block into the open block from the row below. Slip stitch to join and then stop. We do not want to continue adding any more blocks. Both sides are now decreased sides. So for the next row we're going to chain one. Turn our work. We're treating both sides as decrease sides. So we're going to slip stitch under the three double crochets. I'm just slip stitching into the top of them. One I three and into the chain three space. Every row starts and ends with a solid block. So we're going to fill in this solid block here by chaining three and working three double crochets. Just as you did on the other side. Now we're doing it on both. So now this side also becomes a short side like the other one. We're now on an open row. So we started with a solid block. Now we form our open blocks with chaining six. We always follow an open block with a solid block. And we're going to work this across. For this end decreasing section when we're meeting both sides back together it gets much much faster. It's very satisfying doing these rows. Once you reach the other side just be mindful not to accidentally add another block because we now have a nice flat short row here and we do the same thing again we're going to chain one turn our work like a book slip stitch into the top of those three double crochets that you just made and returning back along those stitches into the chain three space and again start with a chain three and forming of a solid block and then slip stitch into your open block. And this row is then a solid row. So we're going to be always stopping now with the final slip stitch to join because we don't want to add an errand extra box up here. We want to keep them now flat coming in together. So solid row. So you can see we are now filling in this little section so keep alternating between your open row and your solid row with each side being a decrease. As you work your way down, eventually you will reach the point where you have just one solid block, one open block, one solid block on your decrease. So as you're working your way back. That's absolutely fine. Don't panic. The next row you work would be the solid row as normal. So you start with your first solid block. Join it to the last open block that we're going to be making and create a solid block into that open block. So that will be your very last open block formed. We still have one little space to fill in here. We want to be working our way down to just one block. So for this very very last row. We're going to slip stitch into the top of the three double crochets you just made. And into the chain three space. And then we form just one solid block. So you can see we have one two blocks here. We're working our way back down to one. So chain three and work your Double Crochet. Into that chain space. And then slip stitch to join. You will have come all the way back in. So at this point we've now finished the main body of your project. If you wanted to end it right here you would chain one cut your yarn leaving a nice long length and then you've got your two tails to weave in and you're done. However if you are making a blanket it's quite nice to sort of clean up these raggedy edges and have a nice foundation which you can then go ahead and put a border onto like this. So we just have one more little foundation row to go just to neaten this up and we're going to use the same yarn that you have worked your whole project in. So we're not going to cut our yarn for working this little foundation border row around the project. We're just going to continue from this point. So we're going to chain one and into this space in between your blocks. We're going to work a single crochet. So if you pull your little blocks apart you've got solid blocks all the way around, there's a little gap in between them. Into this space work a single crochet. So just reach down and work a single crochet. Now if you would like to mark the top of that single crochet with a stitch marker so you don't lose it on the way back round you're absolutely free to do so. Then we're going to chain two. One. And find the next space in between your blocks. So if you just pull them apart there's a really obvious spot here and work a single crochet into that space. Chain two. Find the next gap in between your solid blocks and work a single crochet. Chain two, find the next space, and work a single crochet. So we're creating chain edges along the side which gives it a nice flat edge and little spaces where you can work whatever border you fancy into. So we're going to repeat this keep going down the side. We're going to chain to find the space in between the next set of blocks and work a single crochet just into that gap. Do this all the way along the side of your project. Once you get all the way along the side and you've got to your sort of end block on the corner going to chain two we're going to form a corner into this corner now this is a little bit of a fudge it and see mentality for these corners because there isn't really a clear set space on each corner where to work into for this very first one here I like to personally work into the top of this stitch this double crochet here but you can work into just the gap if that's easier for you. There's no right or wrong. You work your corners for coming around wherever you wherever you want. Wherever they work for you. Your corners will be formed with a single crochet. Chain two and a single crochet back into that exact same space. So you are forming a little corner chain space here to come around around the corner. So we've got chain two spaces all the way along the sides here for working your border stitches and we have a little chain two space in the corner for the same purpose. So we're going to work this all the way around your project. Along the sides you're going to chain two and work a single crochet in between your blocks. So your solid blocks. Chain two, find the next space in between the solid blocks and work a single crochet. Work this along each side. When you get to the last block and the corner of your project chain 2 if you hadn't already and we form the corner into wherever you are most comfortable forming the corner it can be into the stitch or it can be into the space around in between these two stitches totally up to you over here I worked into the top of the stitch here are probably because this is my slip knot and it's a little bit gappy I'll work in between the stitches themselves so in here just a single crochet chain two and a single crochet back into the same space to form a corner. And then continue working around with your chain two and your single crochet in between the blocks. As I say you work your corners wherever they fit for you really. This is how it looks if you work into the top of the stitch and this is how it looks if you work around and in between a couple of the stitches. It's a very very minimal difference and once you have worked a border into all these chain two spaces around you will not notice. So work this all the way around. Once you've worked your final two chains here and you're right back to that very first single crochet that you made To end we're simply going to slip stitch into the top of that single crochet. Now at this point what you go on to do is entirely personal preference. On my blanket I went on to form my border using an entirely different yarn. I find that that really highlights the corner to corner nature of the project when you have a separate colour border. So for me personally this was the point at which I cut my yarn and ended. So to do that we're going to chain cut your yarn leaving a nice long length for weaving in afterwards pull it up out and tight and then you have your two ends to weave in and your corner to corner open block stitch project is complete as is this little foundation row for working your border stitches. Now my personal border was very very simple into the chain two spaces that I formed on that foundation row I worked two single crochet stitches When I got to the corner I worked one single crochet, chain two and one single crochet. Nice and simple. Then I worked three rows of half double crochet stitches. I worked another row of single crochet stitches and then I finished with a round of crab stitch. So I kept it super simple. You can of course add far more elaborate borders if you so wish. But that's it. That's it. For this video. Good job for sticking around for so long! I really hope you enjoyed this Corner to Corner Open Block Stitch. Please do let me know what you think of this stitch down in the comments below and until next time. Happy crocheting. Bye!

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