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Lead climbing: Difference between revisions

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Aside from the specific risks involved in [[traditional climbing#Risk|placing the temporary protection equipment]] while leading traditional climbing routes (i.e. and making sure that it won't fall out in the event of a fall), the ''lead climber'' needs to manage several other general risk when leading a climbing route, such as:<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref name=RI1/>
 
* [[Glossary of climbing terms#runout|Runout]] is the distance from the ''lead climber'' to the last point of protection. In any fall, the ''lead climber'' will fall ''at least'' twice the distance of the runout (and sometimes more if the climbing rope has to flex, or if the belayer does not immediately grip the rope tight and lets more rope 'pay-out'). The greater the runout, the greater the total distance in any fall, and the greater the mental pressure on the climber. Some leads involve runouts where any fall could result in a "ground-fall" (or the leader "hitting the deck").<ref name=RI1/><ref name=OUT50>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190505230457/https://www.outsideonline.com/2062326/beginners-guide-rock-climbing | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2062326/beginners-guide-rock-climbing | archive-date=May 5, 2019| title=The Noob's Guide to Rock Climbing | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]]}}</ref>
 
* Hitting obstacles during falls. Ironically, extreme climbing routes tend to be very overhanging (e.g. ''[[Realization (climb)|Realization]]'' or ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]''), and thus where a ''lead climber'' falls, they naturally avoid hitting any obstacles on the way down, until the rope holds. In contrast, on easier climbing routes, there is a greater chance of the ''lead climber'' hitting against obstacles on the rock face as they fall, thus causing serious injury.<ref name=RI1/><ref name=OUT50/>
 
* [[Glossary of climbing terms#back-clipping|Back-clipping]] is where the rope is clipped into a [[quickdraw]] in such a way that the leader's end runs ''underneath'' the quickdraw carabiner as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the carabiner gate, causing it to open with catastrophic consequences.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes">{{cite web | magazine=Grippped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/three-common-lead-climbing-mistakes-to-avoid/ | date=1 March 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | title=Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid}}</ref>