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{{Infobox fashion designer
|image =
|caption = Emanuel Ungaro in 2009
|name = Emanuel Ungaro
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|death_place = Paris, France
|label_name = House of Emanuel Ungaro
|awards = [[Legion of Honour|Legion d'Honneur]]
|website = [http://www.ungaro.com/ www.ungaro.com]
|}}
[[File:1968 minidress by Emanuel Ungaro 01.jpg|thumb|1968 minidress by Emanuel Ungaro, ([[RISD Museum]])]]
'''Emanuel Ungaro''' (13 February 1933 – 21 December 2019) was a French fashion designer who founded the
==Early life==
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==The House of Emanuel Ungaro==
At the age of 22, Ungaro moved to Paris. Three years later he began designing for the House of [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]]<ref name="Grdn"/> for three years before quitting to work for [[André Courrèges|Courrèges]]. Four years later, in 1965 with the assistance of Swiss artist Sonja Knapp and Elena Bruna Fassio, Ungaro opened his own fashion house in Paris.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Bergdorf's Shows Its Pick of Paris Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1965-09-13 |page=41 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1965/09/13/archives/bergdorfs-shows-its-pick-of-paris-couture.html |access-date=2023-08-07 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro is this season's successor to Courrèges...}}</ref>
During the mid- to late 1960s, Ungaro was known as one of the [[Space Age#Arts and architecture|Space Age]] designers, along with [[Andre Courrèges]], [[Pierre Cardin]], [[Paco Rabanne]], [[Rudi Gernreich]], Jean-Marie Armand,<ref>{{cite web |title=Jean-Marie Armand |url=http://coutureallure.blogspot.com/2011/03/jean-marie-armand.html |website=Couture Allure |access-date=2021-12-21 |date=2011-03-08}}</ref> and [[Diana Dew]], creating ultra-modern, futuristic clothing of stark simplicity consisting of flaring, [[Miniskirt#1960s|mini-length]] garments<ref>{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |author-link=Jane Mulvagh |title=Vogue History of
His womenswear designs of the 1970s were noted for their exuberant mixing of colorful prints.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Cardin Makes Styles Look Like Fun Again |journal=The New York Times |date=1971-01-27 |page=42 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1971/01/27/archives/cardin-makes-styles-look-like-fun-again.html |access-date=2022-01-23 |quote=He mixes up fast assortments of polka dots, stripes and simple, child‐like flowers in the same outfit, the way Creole women do, or joyful peasants anywhere. It goes like this: flowered shirt, striped pullover, dotted pants.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=From Ungaro – Fashion Show Worth the Wait |journal=The New York Times |date=1972-07-27 |page=36 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1972/07/27/archives/from-ungaro-fashion-show-worth-the-wait.html |access-date=2022-01-23 |quote=Ungaro's compelling interest is fabric design. He likes geometric patterns in multitudinous colors. He used to mix them up so much that you didn't know where to look, but this time, he has put everything together properly.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Ungaro – The Liveliest Styles So Far |journal=The New York Times |date=1973-04-05 |page=56 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1973/04/05/archives/ungaro-the-liveliest-styles-so-far-the-chemise-idea-one-in-velvet.html |access-date=2022-01-23 |quote=He mixes colors and patterns with a painter's eye....Ungaro never misses. His checks, squares and circles go together beautifully.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Couture Scorecard: Good is Quite Good |journal=The New York Times |date=1973-07-28 |page=28 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1973/07/28/archives/couture-scorecard-good-is-quite-good-special-cachet.html |access-date=2022-01-23 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro runs a close second [to Yves Saint Laurent] in interpreting contemporary clothes, playing down intricacy of detailing and playing up remarkable prints that have a modern art look.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Stop Me If You've Heard This |journal=The New York Times |date=1974-01-30 |page=20 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1974/01/30/archives/stop-me-if-youve-heard-this-wide-wide-dresses-slingback-shoes.html |access-date=2022-01-23 |quote=There were all his multitudinous prints, more floral now than geometric, dancing all over everything in sight.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Crahay Turns Paris into a Celebration |journal=The New York Times |date=1977-07-27 |page=55 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1977/07/27/archives/crahay-turns-paris-into-a-celebration-the-designer-raised-his-arms.html |access-date=2022-01-23 |quote=His prints have always been exceptional and, as usual, he alternates between geometric stripes, checks and plaids on the one hand and delicate flowers on the other.}}</ref> He
In the late 1970s, fashion journalist [[Michael Roberts (fashion journalist)|Michael Roberts]], when opening a Sunday column in ''[[The Times]]'', said "Emanuel Ungaro has a great charm. He wears it around his neck."<ref>Willian Norwich,▼
Ungaro entered perhaps his most influential period in the 1980s, as he interpreted the era's aggressive, broad-shouldered women's silhouette<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Donovan |first1=Carrie |title=Fashion: Feminine Flourishes |journal=The New York Times |date=1985-03-31 |page=80 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/31/magazine/fashion-feminine-flourishes.html |access-date=2022-03-09 |quote=Karl Lagerfeld..., Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy...continued with their versions of the rather aggressive broad-shouldered silhouette...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=McCall |first1=Patricia |title=Fashion Preview: Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=1983-03-20 |page=60 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/20/magazine/fashion-preview-paris.html |access-date=2021-12-15 |quote=As for Emanuel Ungaro, nothing is quite so seductive as a skinny sheath tucked under a big-shouldered jacket or coat. 'It is this contrast of wide on narrow that I love,' he says.}}</ref> with Edwardian-style<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Affluent Fans Breathe New Life Into Paris Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1984-07-31 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1984/07/31/style/affluent-fans-breathe-new-life-into-the-paris-haute-couture.html |access-date=2022-03-17 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro's updated, sexy Edwardian clothes...}}</ref> shirring, ruching, draping, and his trademark eye-catching prints<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=The Grandeur of Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=1982-08-29 |page=220 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/08/29/magazine/the-grandeur-of-paris.html |access-date=2022-03-16 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro is as responsible as anyone for the current tendency to mix one glorious material with another - or with five or six more - in the same design. His astonishing medleys of satin, lace and wool, or of several different prints in the same outfit, have brought him acclaim. His fabric mixes have also spurred other designers to follow suit.}}</ref> to create a voluptuous, very feminine, even coquettish look<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Paris Pick-Me-Up from Valentino |journal=The New York Times |date=1985-03-27 |page=C1 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/27/garden/paris-pick-me-up-from-valentino.html |access-date=2021-12-04 |quote=[A]t the Emanuel Ungaro show...models sauntered down the runway in short silk satin dresses, in myriad prints, all draped to the body. They were seductive dresses, a bit too suggestive...}}</ref> that was highly popular with the public.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Horyn |first1=Cathy |title=The Fall of the House of Ungaro |journal=The New York Times |date=2010-08-20 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/22/t-magazine/22well-ungaro-t.html |access-date=2021-11-27 |quote=[M]any people know Ungaro because it was prominent in the '80s and '90s. If you were a snooty boutique owner in Dallas or New York and you couldn't sell an Ungaro dress with the drapery pouring over the breasts and thighs like butter on a hot ear of corn, you had no business being in retail. Men loved a woman in an Ungaro dress, it was said, because the style and the vibrant colors made them imagine what she had on underneath in a way that an Armani pantsuit did not and, further, what they might do with this thought.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=The Ultimate Luxury |journal=The New York Times |date=1981-08-30 |page=206 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1981/08/30/magazine/the-ultimate-luxury.html |access-date=2022-03-06 |quote=The hot collection of the season is that of Emanuel Ungaro...Americans are now flocking to his salon, not only to see the clothes, but to buy them. Even the French agree that his are the most satisfactory...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Cunningham |first1=Bill |title=To the Future Through the Past |journal=Details |date=1989-09-01 |volume=VIII |issue=3 |page=219 |publisher=Details Publishing Corp. |location=New York, NY |ISSN=0740-4921 |quote=...Ungaro was continuing to drape dresses and cut suits, giving his designs an international influence greater than any other Paris couturier.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Luther |first1=Marylou |title=Fashion |journal=The Washington Post |date=1985-10-24 |url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1985/10/24/fashion/d5a70038-eac5-4e43-880c-e3bdbfeccd4e/ |access-date=2022-03-09 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro, who started the bodice-shirring trend two years ago, continues to refine this look that's now being copied all over the world. As anyone who's ever worn one of these drape-front dresses can tell you, the shirring allows freedom of movement in even the narrowest of dresses.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Cunningham |first1=Bill |title=Fashionating Rhythm |journal=Details |date=1988-03-01 |volume=VI |issue=8 |page=120 |publisher=Details Publishing Corp. |location=New York, NY |issn=0740-4921 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro['s]...designs display a burning desire for draping the body in search of perfect beauty.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Saint Laurent Dominates Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1984-01-31 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1984/01/31/style/saint-laurent-dominates-couture.html |access-date=2022-03-17 |quote=Ungaro's draped Proustian look, updated with above-the-knee hemlines, looked sexy or old-fashioned, depending on the point of view...}}</ref>▼
[http://observer.com/1998/03/michael-roberts-author-of-the-jungle-abc/ Michael Roberts, Author of The Jungle ABC], ''Observer.com'', 23 March 1998</ref>▼
▲Ungaro entered perhaps his most influential period in the 1980s, as he interpreted the era's aggressive, [[Shoulder pads (fashion)#1980s|broad-shouldered]] women's silhouette<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Donovan |first1=Carrie |author-link=Carrie Donovan |title=Fashion: Feminine Flourishes |journal=The New York Times |date=1985-03-31 |page=80 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/31/magazine/fashion-feminine-flourishes.html |access-date=2022-03-09 |quote=Karl Lagerfeld..., Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy...continued with their versions of the rather aggressive broad-shouldered silhouette...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=McCall |first1=Patricia |title=Fashion Preview: Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=1983-03-20 |page=60 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/20/magazine/fashion-preview-paris.html |access-date=2021-12-15 |quote=As for Emanuel Ungaro, nothing is quite so seductive as a skinny sheath tucked under a big-shouldered jacket or coat. 'It is this contrast of wide on narrow that I love,' he says.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Ungaro's Bright Palette Lights Up Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1986-01-29 |page=C1 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1986/01/29/garden/ungaro-s-bright-palette-lights-up-couture.html |access-date=2022-04-04 |quote=...[J]ackets tend to have large rippling lapels as well as very broad shoulders and peplums over the hips.}}</ref> with Edwardian-style<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Affluent Fans Breathe New Life Into Paris Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1984-07-31 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1984/07/31/style/affluent-fans-breathe-new-life-into-the-paris-haute-couture.html |access-date=2022-03-17 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro's updated, sexy Edwardian clothes...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Saint Laurent Dominates Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1984-01-31 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1984/01/31/style/saint-laurent-dominates-couture.html |access-date=2022-03-17 |quote=Ungaro's draped Proustian look, updated with above-the-knee hemlines, looked sexy or old-fashioned, depending on the point of view...}}</ref> shirring, ruching, draping,<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Cunningham |first1=Bill |author-link=Bill Cunningham (American photographer) |title=Fashionating Rhythm |journal=Details |date=1988-03-01 |volume=VI |issue=8 |page=120 |publisher=Details Publishing Corp. |location=New York, NY |issn=0740-4921 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro['s]...designs display a burning desire for draping the body in search of perfect beauty.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Ungaro's Bright Palette Lights Up Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=1986-01-29 |page=C1 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1986/01/29/garden/ungaro-s-bright-palette-lights-up-couture.html |access-date=2022-04-04 |quote=Ungaro is responsible for this season's dominant dress shape: tightly draped through the torso and flounced a bit at the hem.}}</ref> and his trademark eye-catching prints<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=The Grandeur of Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=1982-08-29 |page=220 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/08/29/magazine/the-grandeur-of-paris.html |access-date=2022-03-16 |quote=Emanuel Ungaro is as responsible as anyone for the current tendency to mix one glorious material with another - or with five or six more - in the same design. His astonishing medleys of satin, lace and wool, or of several different prints in the same outfit, have brought him acclaim. His fabric mixes have also spurred other designers to follow suit.}}</ref> to create a voluptuous, very feminine, even coquettish look<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=Paris Pick-Me-Up from Valentino |journal=The New York Times |date=1985-03-27 |page=C1 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/27/garden/paris-pick-me-up-from-valentino.html |access-date=2021-12-04 |quote=[A]t the Emanuel Ungaro show...models sauntered down the runway in short silk satin dresses, in myriad prints, all draped to the body. They were seductive dresses, a bit too suggestive...}}</ref> that was highly popular with the public.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Horyn |first1=Cathy |author-link=Cathy Horyn |title=The Fall of the House of Ungaro |journal=The New York Times |date=2010-08-20 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/22/t-magazine/22well-ungaro-t.html |access-date=2021-11-27 |quote=[M]any people know Ungaro because it was prominent in the '80s and '90s. If you were a snooty boutique owner in Dallas or New York and you couldn't sell an Ungaro dress with the drapery pouring over the breasts and thighs like butter on a hot ear of corn, you had no business being in retail. Men loved a woman in an Ungaro dress, it was said, because the style and the vibrant colors made them imagine what she had on underneath in a way that an Armani pantsuit did not and, further, what they might do with this thought.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |author-link=Bernadine Morris |title=The Ultimate Luxury |journal=The New York Times |date=1981-08-30 |page=206 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1981/08/30/magazine/the-ultimate-luxury.html |access-date=2022-03-06 |quote=The hot collection of the season is that of Emanuel Ungaro...Americans are now flocking to his salon, not only to see the clothes, but to buy them. Even the French agree that his are the most satisfactory...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Cunningham |first1=Bill |author-link=Bill Cunningham (American photographer) |title=To the Future Through the Past |journal=Details |date=1989-09-01 |volume=VIII |issue=3 |page=219 |publisher=Details Publishing Corp. |location=New York, NY |
Ungaro launched his first menswear collection, Ungaro Uomo, in 1973, and his first [[perfume]], ''Diva'', 10 years later in 1983. Ungaro was a participant in [[The Battle of Versailles Fashion Show]] held on 28 November 1973. Later followed the perfumes ''Senso'' (1987), ''Ungaro'' (1991) and ''Emanuel Ungaro For Men'' (1991). In 1996, he formed a partnership with [[Salvatore Ferragamo]].<ref name="Grdn"/><ref>Amy Barrett,▼
▲Ungaro launched his first menswear collection, Ungaro Uomo, in 1973, and his first [[perfume]], ''Diva'', 10 years later in 1983. Ungaro was a participant in [[The Battle of Versailles Fashion Show]] held on 28 November 1973. Later followed the perfumes ''Senso'' (1987), ''Ungaro'' (1991) and ''Emanuel Ungaro For Men'' (1991).
▲In the late 1970s, fashion journalist [[Michael Roberts (fashion journalist)|Michael Roberts]], when opening a Sunday column in [[The Times]], said "Emanuel Ungaro has a great charm. He wears it around his neck."<ref>Willian Norwich,
▲ [http://observer.com/1998/03/michael-roberts-author-of-the-jungle-abc/ Michael Roberts, Author of The Jungle ABC], ''Observer.com'', 23 March 1998</ref>
By 1989, Ungaro was producing two haute couture collections a year, two women's ready-to-wear (labelled "Parallèle", begun in 1971), as well as lower-priced labels "Ter" (1988 to 1991) and "Solo Donna".<ref>{{Cite web |date=1989-04-30 |title=STILL `SENSUOUS` AFTER ALL THESE YEARS |url=https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1989-04-30-8904100941-story.html |access-date=2023-11-23 |website=Chicago Tribune}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Kellogg |first=Ann |date=2002 |title=In an influential fashion : an encyclopedia of nineteenth-and twentieth-century fashion designers and retailers who transformed dress {{!}} WorldCat.org |url=https://search.worldcat.org/title/47216469 |access-date=2023-11-23 |website=search.worldcat.org |language=en}}</ref> That year a scholarship was funded in his name at the [[Art Institute of Chicago|School of the Art Institute of Chicago]], endowed by [[Marshall Field's]] in recognition of his legacy as a designer.
In 2005, Ungaro retired and sold the label to internet entrepreneur Asim Abdullah for US$84 million.<ref name="Vogue"/><ref name="Ungaro">{{cite web|url=http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2010/04/26/giles-at-ungaro---it-s-official.htm|title=Giles at Ungaro – It’s official!|date=26 April 2010|work=[[Grazia]]|publisher=[[Arnoldo Mondadori Editore]]|access-date=26 April 2010}}</ref><ref name="Grdn"/>▼
Menswear lines included "Classics by Ungaro" and "Ungaro pour l'Homme Paris".<ref name=":2" /> Lines not designed by Ungaro himself included "Emanuel by Emanuel Ungaro", a women's line introduced specifically for the US market in 1991, "Emanuel Petite" in 1994, and "Ungaro Woman", a plus-size line added in 1996.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Howard |first=Robert |date=1991-09-01 |title=The Designer Organization: Italy's GFT Goes Global |work=Harvard Business Review |url=https://hbr.org/1991/09/the-designer-organization-italys-gft-goes-global |access-date=2023-11-23 |issn=0017-8012}}</ref><ref name=":2" />
After the sale, the label languished with a revolving door of designers, the last of which, [[Esteban Cortazar]], who was appointed in 2007, was fired two years later after his refusal to work with actress [[Lindsay Lohan]]. Subsequently, Lohan was appointed Artistic Director, working with new head designer [[Estrella Archs]], who was hired hastily to replace Cortazar. The introduction of Lohan, which was meant to give the label publicity, was received with shock and dismay in [[Paris Fashion Week]] 2009.<ref name="nytimes.com">{{cite news| url=https://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/05/fashion/shows/05lohan.html?_r=1&hp | work=The New York Times | title=A Controversial Debut for Lohan in Paris | first=Eric | last=Wilson | date=5 October 2009 | access-date=1 May 2010}}</ref> In 2010, during [[Paris Fashion Week]], [[Lindsay Lohan]] announced that she was no longer working for or with Ungaro, and that she could not comment on the matter because of legal issues. Her work was heavily criticized<ref>[https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/7402793/Lindsay-Lohan-ends-collaboration-with-fashion-designer-Emanuel-Ungaro.html Lindsay Lohan ends collaboration with fashion designer Emanuel Ungaro], ''Telegraph.co.uk'', 9 March 2010</ref> and soon after the fashion house was looking for a buyer.<ref>James Covert, [https://nypost.com/2010/03/25/emanuel-ungaro-abandons-boutique-eyes-buyer/ Emanuel Ungaro abandons boutique; eyes buyer], ''Nypost.com'', 25 March 2010</ref>▼
In 1996, he formed a partnership with [[Salvatore Ferragamo]].<ref name="Grdn" /><ref>Amy Barrett,
In 2009, the label had sales of about $200 million from fragrance and less-expensive lines sold in Asia, but the runway collection has been losing money for years.<ref name="nytimes.com"/> In April 2010, it was announced that Archs had been dismissed and British designer [[Giles Deacon]] would be taking over as creative director.<ref name="Ungaro"/><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/hilaryalexander/7614095/Giles-Deacon-for-Emanuel-Ungaro.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100424225653/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/hilaryalexander/7614095/Giles-Deacon-for-Emanuel-Ungaro.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=24 April 2010|title=Giles Deacon for Emanuel Ungaro?|last=Alexander|first=Hilary|date=21 April 2010|work=The Daily Telegraph |location=UK |access-date=25 April 2010 }}</ref>▼
[https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB868486541517534000 Ferragamo's Expansion Will Test Family Values], ''Wsj.com'', 10 July 1997</ref> In Ungaro's obituary, ''The Guardian'' notes that his 30 years without outside investment ending in 1996 made him "the last independent in Paris":<ref name=":0">{{Cite news |last=Horwell |first=Veronica |date=2019-12-25 |title=Emanuel Ungaro obituary |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/25/emanuel-ungaro-obituary |access-date=2023-11-23 |issn=0261-3077}}</ref> <blockquote>Lack of funding shaped his own business. In 1968, he added ready-to-wear, sold at first from his salon on the Avenue Montaigne, then distributed in the US and Japan, for a reliable revenue stream to help support his couture without pursuing the licensing deals that had become standard for couturiers. He profited only from what his house directly made, not from selling the name to producers whose output quality he could not control.<ref name=":0" /></blockquote>In 1997, Ungaro, Ferragamo and [[Bulgari]] created a new company: Emanuel Ungaro Parfums. The new perfumes to follow were ''Fleur de Diva'' (1997), ''Desnuda'' (2001) and ''Apparition'' (2004).
===Giambattista Valli, 1998–2004===
In 2012, the Italian company [[Aeffe]] took over the production and distribution of Ungaro products.<ref>Suzy Menkes, [https://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/25/fashion/25iht-fungaro25.html Ungaro's Latest Revival], ''Nytimes.com'', 24 September 2012</ref> In September 2012, Fausto Puglisi was named creative director of Ungaro, and the brand announced its comeback to the [[Paris Fashion Week]].<ref>Sarah Karmali, [http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/emanuel-ungaro-names-creative-director-fausto-puglisi-return-to-paris-fashion-week Emanuel Ungaro Names Creative Director], ''Vogue.co.uk'', 24 September 2012</ref> In 2015, Ungaro launched a [[smart device|smart]] ring that, connected to a phone, dimly lights up when a selected few contacts call.<ref>Sophie Charara, [https://www.wareable.com/smart-jewellery/emanuel-ungaro-smart-ring-omate-vip-alerts-1513 Emanuel Ungaro smart ring, powered by Omate, takes care of VIP alerts], ''Wareable.com'', 11 August 2015</ref> In March 2017, Fausto Puglisi was replaced by Marco Colagrossi (formerly women's wear at [[Giorgio Armani]]) as creative director of Ungaro.<ref>Joelle Diderich, [http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/emanuel-ungaro-switches-designer-takes-production-in-house-10836634/ Emanuel Ungaro Switches Designer, Takes Production In-house], ''Wwd.com'', 6 March 2017</ref>▼
[[Giambattista Valli]] worked as Creative Director for Ungaro from 1998 to 2004.<ref>{{Cite news |date=2020-03-02 |title=Giambattista Valli celebrates Parisian attitude in catwalk show |language=en-US |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.comarticle/idUSKBN20P2G5/ |access-date=2023-11-23}}</ref> Ungaro credited Valli with revitalizing the house, and named him as his successor.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Wilson |first=Eric |date=2012-03-21 |title=Catering to the Valli Girls |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/22/fashion/giambattista-valli-designing-for-women-in-the-know.html |access-date=2023-11-23 |issn=0362-4331}}</ref> In a tribute after Ungaro's death, Valli was quoted by ''Vogue'' as saying "He was one of the big masters of haute couture, with a very personal kind of universe.... We worked in parallel a lot, he on the haute couture, and me on the ready-to-wear. For seven years I learned a lot from him. He was not listening to critics, just his own dreams and obsessions."<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-12-24 |title=Emanuel Ungaro, Remembered by His Protégé and Successors |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/emanuel-ungaro-remembered-by-his-protege-and-successors |access-date=2023-11-23 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref>
▲In 2005, Ungaro retired and sold the label to internet entrepreneur Asim Abdullah for US$84 million.<ref name="Vogue"/><ref name="Ungaro">{{cite web|url=http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2010/04/26/giles-at-ungaro---it-s-official.htm|title=Giles at Ungaro –
===Various artistic directors, 2005–2010===
▲After the sale, the label languished with a revolving door of designers – [[Vincent Darré]] and Peter Dundas –,<ref>Joelle Diderich (25 May 2010), [https://wwd.com/feature/emanuel-ungaro-taps-giles-deacon-as-creative-director-3085462-1318720/ Ungaro Taps Giles Deacon] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.</ref> the last of which, [[Esteban Cortazar]], who was appointed in 2007, was fired two years later after his refusal to work with actress [[Lindsay Lohan]]. Subsequently, Lohan was appointed Artistic Director, working with new head designer [[Estrella Archs]], who was hired hastily to replace Cortazar. The introduction of Lohan, which was meant to give the label publicity, was received with shock and dismay in [[Paris Fashion Week]] 2009.<ref name="nytimes.com">{{cite news| url=https://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/05/fashion/shows/05lohan.html
In 2009, the label had sales of about $200 million from fragrance and less-expensive lines sold in Asia, but the runway collection has been losing money for years.<ref name="nytimes.com"/>
===Gilles Deacon, 2010–2012===
▲
===Fausto Puglisi, 2012–2017===
▲In 2012,
==Fragrance==
In 2008, [[Avon Products|Avon]] and Emanuel Ungaro collaborated to launch a new duo of fragrances, ''U by Ungaro for Her'' and ''U by Ungaro for Him''. Actress [[Reese Witherspoon]] served as the scents' spokeswoman.
* '''''Avon U by Ungaro For Her''''' was developed by [[perfumer]]s [[Jean Marc Chaillan]] and [[Loc Dong]], and the "fresh, woody floral" includes notes of [[bergamot orange|bergamot]] blossom, [[freesia]], [[Capsicum|pepper]] blossom, [[acacia aura]], [[lotus (plant)|lotus]] flower, [[osmanthus]], [[iris (plant)|iris]], [[sandalwood]] and [[musk]].
* '''''Avon U by Ungaro For Him''''' was developed by [[Yves Cassar]] and [[Pascal Gaurin]], and the "woody aromatic watery blend" features green [[Mandarin orange|mandarin]] leaf, ruby red [[grapefruit]], [[pomegranate]], [[immortelle (disambiguation)|immortelle]], [[cardamom]], [[Cedar wood|cedar]] leaf, [[vetiver]], [[patchouli]], [[sandalwood]], [[tonka bean]] and [[Balsam of Peru]].
==Personal life==
In 1988, Ungaro married Laura Bernabei. He has a daughter, Cosima Ungaro, born in [[Neuilly-sur-Seine]], but her birthdate has been kept a secret.<ref>Susan Heller Anderson, [https://www.nytimes.com/1990/06/26/style/chronicle-193390.html Chronicle], ''Nytimes.com'', 26 June 1990</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite
Ungaro died in December 2019, at the age of 86.<ref name=":0" /> He had reportedly been ill for two years previous.<ref name=":1" />
==References==
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==Further reading==
*Morris, Bernadine. "Review/Design:When America Stole The Runway From Paris Couture".''The New York Times'', 10 Sep 1993.
==External links==
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*[http://www.ungaro.com/ Official website]
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[[Category:People of Apulian descent]]
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[[Category:French brands]]
[[Category:Businesspeople from Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur]]
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