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{{short description|Technique of rock climbing}} |
{{short description|Technique of rock climbing}} |
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{{About|a technique in rock climbing|the Olympic and IFSC sport of lead climbing|Competition lead climbing}} |
{{About|a technique in rock climbing|the Olympic and IFSC sport of lead climbing|Competition lead climbing}} |
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[[File:Ainhize Belar eskalatzen.jpg |thumb|A 'lead climber' on the bolted [[sport climbing]] route ''Gezurren Erresuma'' {{climbing grade|8c}}, in Spain.]] |
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{{Climbing sidebar}} |
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'''Lead climbing''' (or '''leading''') is a technique in [[rock climbing]] where the |
'''Lead climbing''' (or '''leading''') is a technique in [[rock climbing]] where the 'lead climber' [[Glossary of climbing terms#clip in|clips]] their rope to the [[climbing protection]] as they ascend a [[pitch (climbing)|pitch]] of the [[climbing route]], while their 'second' (or '[[belayer]]') remains at the base of the route [[belaying]] the rope to protect the 'lead climber' in the event that they fall. The term is used to distinguish between the two roles, and the greater effort and increased risk, of the role of the 'lead climber'. |
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Leading a climb is in contrast with [[top roping]] a climb, where even though there is still a |
Leading a climb is in contrast with [[top roping]] a climb, where even though there is still a 'second' belaying the rope, the 'lead climber' faces little or no risk in the event of a fall and does not need to clip into any protection as the rope is already [[Anchor (climbing)|anchored]] to the top of the route (i.e. if they fall off, they just hang from the rope). Leading a climbing route is a [[Rock climbing#Description|core activity]] in rock climbing, and most [[first ascent]]s and [[first free ascent]]s are from leading. |
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Lead climbing can be performed as [[free climbing]] in a [[traditional climbing]] or a [[sport climbing]] format — leading a traditional climb is a much riskier and physically demanding exercise for the climber. [[Competition lead climbing]] is a sport climbing format that is part of the Olympic sport of [[competition climbing]]. Lead climbing can also be performed as [[aid climbing]]. The term is not generally applied to [[free solo climbing]], as the free solo climber is already alone and thus there is no need to distinguish the role of |
Lead climbing can be performed as [[free climbing]], in either a [[traditional climbing]] or a [[sport climbing]] format — leading a traditional climb is a much riskier and physically demanding exercise for the climber. [[Competition lead climbing]] is a sport climbing format that is part of the Olympic sport of [[competition climbing]]. Lead climbing can also be performed as [[aid climbing]]. The term is not generally applied to [[free solo climbing]], as the free solo climber is already alone and thus there is no need to distinguish the role of 'leader' from the 'second'. |
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== Description == |
== Description == |
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[[File:Vorstieg Zeichnung.jpg|thumb|upright=0.5|left|Leader belayed by the second]] |
[[File:Vorstieg Zeichnung.jpg|thumb|upright=0.5|left|'Leader' (top) belayed by the 'second' (below)]] |
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| ⚫ | When |
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| ⚫ | Leading a route requires a 'lead climbing pair'. When ascending a route, the 'lead climber' of the pair clips their rope into the [[climbing protection]] as they progress up a [[pitch (climbing)|pitch]] on a given [[climbing route]]. If they are leading a [[traditional climbing]] route, the 'lead climber' must arrange and insert 'temporary climbing protection' as they climb. If they are leading a [[sport climbing]] route, the climbing protection is already installed via pre-drilled [[bolt (climbing)|bolts]], into which the 'lead climber' only needs to attach [[quickdraw]]s.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref name=CL2>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/rock-climbing-terms-definitions/ | title=What's A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers. | date=4 May 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | author=Climbing Staff}}</ref> Leading a traditional route is, therefore, a much riskier and physically demanding undertaking than leading a sport climbing route of the same [[grade (climbing)|grade]].<ref name=RI1/> |
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| ⚫ | Aside from the specific additional risks of traditional climbing, every |
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| ⚫ | Aside from the specific additional risks of traditional climbing, every 'lead climber' faces the specific risk of falling ''twice the distance'' to their last point of climbing protection — i.e. if the 'lead climber' was 3-metres above their last point of protection, then in a fall, they will fall over 6-metres, thus the rope starts to brake 3-metres ''below'' their last point of protection.<ref name=RI1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/how-to-climb/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=How to Lead Climb | date=12 September 2016 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref> This aspect makes leading a more physically demanding activity than [[top roping]] where the lead climber is immediately held by the top-rope upon falling.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/> |
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| ⚫ | Leading a climb also requires good communication between the |
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| ⚫ | Leading a climb also requires good communication between the 'lead climber' and the 'second' who is [[belaying]]. In particular, the 'lead climber' will want to avoid the 'second' holding the rope too tightly, which creates "[[Glossary of climbing terms#rope drag|rope drag]]" that acts as a downward force on the 'lead climber'. However, where the 'lead climber' feels that a fall is imminent, they will want the 'second' to quickly "[[Glossary of climbing terms#take|take in]]" any slack in the rope to minimize the length of any fall. Once the 'lead climber' has reached the top of the route (or pitch on a [[multi-pitch climbing]] route), they will then create a fixed [[anchor (climbing)|anchor]] and belay the 'second' from above as the 'second' climbs up, removing any temporary climbing protection that the 'leader' had inserted earlier; note that the 'second' is not themselves 'lead climbing' but are in effect, top roping (e.g. if they fall they will just hang from the rope).<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/> |
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===First ascent=== |
===First ascent=== |
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The act, and drive, to ''lead'' a climb is related to the definition of what is a [[first ascent]] (FA), or [[first free ascent]] (FFA) in the traditional and sport climbing formats. The [[grade (climbing)|grades]] assigned to traditional and sport climbing routes are based on the climber ''leading'' the route, and not top roping it. If a climber wants to test themselves at a specific technical grade or set a new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing|grade milestone]], then they must ''lead'' the route.<ref name=CM1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=A |
The act, and drive, to ''lead'' a climb is related to the definition of what is a [[first ascent]] (FA), or [[first free ascent]] (FFA) in the traditional and sport climbing formats. The [[grade (climbing)|grades]] assigned to traditional and sport climbing routes are based on the climber ''leading'' the route, and not top roping it. If a climber wants to test themselves at a specific technical grade or set a new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing|grade milestone]], then they must ''lead'' the route.<ref name=CM1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=23 August 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref><ref name=CN1>{{cite web | magazine=Climber (Magazine) | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-lead-climbing/ | title=What Is Lead Climbing? | date=17 June 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref> |
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Before the arrival of sport climbing in the early-1980s, traditional climbers frowned upon FFAs where the |
Before the arrival of sport climbing in the early-1980s, traditional climbers frowned upon FFAs where the 'lead climber' had practiced the route beforehand on a top rope (called [[headpoint]]ing), or worse still, practiced the [[crux (climbing)|crux]] moves from a hanging fixed rope (called [[hangdog]]ging). The arrival of sport climbing led to the development of the [[redpoint (climbing)|redpoint]] as the accepted definition of an FFA, which includes the practices of headpointing and hangdogging. Where a 'lead climber' can complete a route first-time and without any prior knowledge, it is called an [[onsight]] (or a [[flash (climbing)|flash]] if they had prior knowledge) and this is still considered the most desirable form of ascent, and is separately recorded in [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|grade milestone]]s and [[climbing guidebook]]s.<ref name=Gripped>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | title=Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=5 November 2022 | accessdate=21 December 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/history-headpointing-peak-district-gritstone/ | title=How the World's Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way: How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone | first=Mike | last=Huttom | date=3 November 2022 | accessdate=13 February 2023}}</ref> |
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==Risk== |
==Risk== |
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[[File:Falling lead climber.jpg|thumb|Lead climber falling with a modest [[Glossary of climbing terms#runout|runout]]; the |
[[File:Falling lead climber.jpg|thumb|Lead climber falling with a modest [[Glossary of climbing terms#runout|runout]] from their last point of [[climbing protection]]; the 'belayer' is not visible but has clearly locked the rope so the climber is fulcruming around their last point of protection.]] |
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Aside from the specific risks involved in [[traditional climbing#Risk|placing the temporary protection equipment]] while leading traditional climbing routes (i.e. and making sure that it won't fall out in the event of a fall), the |
Aside from the specific risks involved in [[traditional climbing#Risk|placing the temporary protection equipment]] while leading traditional climbing routes (i.e. and making sure that it won't fall out in the event of a fall), the 'lead climber' needs to manage several other general risks when they are leading a climbing route, such as:<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref name=RI1/> |
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| ⚫ | * [[Glossary of climbing terms#runout|Runout]] is the distance from the |
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| ⚫ | * Hitting obstacles during falls. Ironically, extreme climbing routes tend to be very overhanging (e.g. ''[[Realization (climb)|Realization]]'' or ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]''), and thus where a |
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| ⚫ | * [[Glossary of climbing terms#runout|Runout]] is the distance from the 'lead climber' to the last point of protection. In any fall, the 'lead climber' will fall ''at least'' twice the distance of the runout (and sometimes more if the climbing rope has to flex, or if the belayer does not immediately grip the rope tight and lets more rope 'pay-out'). The greater the runout, the greater the total distance in any fall, and the greater the mental pressure on the climber. Some leads involve runouts where any fall could result in a "ground-fall" (or the leader "hitting the deck").<ref name=RI1/><ref name=OUT50>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190505230457/https://www.outsideonline.com/2062326/beginners-guide-rock-climbing | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2062326/beginners-guide-rock-climbing | archive-date=May 5, 2019| title=The Noob's Guide to Rock Climbing | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]]| date=16 March 2016 }}</ref> |
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| ⚫ | * Hitting obstacles during falls. Ironically, extreme climbing routes tend to be very overhanging (e.g. ''[[Realization (climb)|Realization]]'' or ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]''), and thus where a 'lead climber' falls, they naturally avoid hitting any obstacles on the way down, until the rope holds. In contrast, on easier climbing routes, there is a greater chance of the 'lead climber' hitting against obstacles on the rock face as they fall, thus causing serious injury.<ref name=RI1/><ref name=OUT50/> |
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* [[Glossary of climbing terms#back-clipping|Back-clipping]] is where the rope is clipped into a [[quickdraw]] in such a way that the leader's end runs ''underneath'' the quickdraw carabiner as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the carabiner gate, causing it to open with catastrophic consequences.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes">{{cite web | magazine=Grippped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/three-common-lead-climbing-mistakes-to-avoid/ | date=1 March 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | title=Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid}}</ref> |
* [[Glossary of climbing terms#back-clipping|Back-clipping]] is where the rope is clipped into a [[quickdraw]] in such a way that the leader's end runs ''underneath'' the quickdraw carabiner as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the carabiner gate, causing it to open with catastrophic consequences.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes">{{cite web | magazine=Grippped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/three-common-lead-climbing-mistakes-to-avoid/ | date=1 March 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | title=Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid}}</ref> |
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* [[Glossary of climbing terms#z-clipping|Z-clipping]] is where the 'lead climber' grabs the rope below an already clipped [[quickdraw]] and clips it into the next quickdraw, resulting in a "zig-zag" shape of the rope on the wall, which can create immense [[Glossary of climbing terms#rope drag|rope drag]] making further progress impossible until it is fixed.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes" /> |
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* |
* Turtling is where one of the 'lead climber's' limbs is ''behind'' the rope when they fall, which can result in the climber being "flipped" upside down (i.e. like a turtle on its back), which can then eject the climber from their harness, which is a serious event.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes" /> |
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* Turtling is where one of the ''lead climber's'' limbs is ''behind'' the rope when they fall, which can result in the climber being "flipped" upside down (i.e. like a turtle on its back), which can then eject the climber from their harness resulting in a more serious event.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes" /> |
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==Equipment== |
==Equipment== |
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{{see also|Rock-climbing equipment}} |
{{see also|Rock-climbing equipment}} |
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{{multiple image |
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[[File:Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 3.jpg|thumb|''Lead climber'' on a [[traditional climbing|traditional climb]] carrying their [[climbing protection]], and ''second'' [[belaying]] from below.]] |
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| ⚫ | Regardless of the particular type of format that the |
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|direction= horizontal |
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|footer='Lead climbers' on [[traditional climbing|traditional climbing routes]] carrying their [[climbing protection]] on their [[climbing harness]] whilst being [[belaying|belayed]] by their 'Second' who is standing below. |
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|image1=Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 3.jpg |
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|image2=Traditional rock climbing red river gorge.jpg |
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}} |
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| ⚫ | Regardless of the particular type of format that the 'lead climber' is undertaking (i.e. traditional, sport, or aid), they will require a [[climbing harness|harness]] attached to one end of a [[Dynamic rope|dynamic]] [[kernmantle rope]] (usually via a [[figure-eight knot]]). Their 'second'—who will be [[belaying]]—will use a mechanical [[belay device]] that is clipped into the climbing rope and which 'pays-out' the rope as needed as the 'lead climber' ascends the route, but which can immediately grip the rope tightly in the event that the 'lead climber' falls.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/> |
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Where the |
Where the 'lead climber' is following a traditional climbing format, they will need to carry an extensive range of protective equipment (often referred to as a 'climbing rack' and is usually worn around the waist being attached to the [[climbing harness]]) such as [[Nut (climbing)|nuts]], [[Hex (climbing)|hexcentrics]] and [[tricam]]s (known as "passive" protection), and/or [[spring-loaded camming device]]s (or "friends", and known as "active protection"). Where the 'lead climber' is following a sport climbing format, they only need to carry [[quickdraw]]s (which they will also attach to their climbing harness) that they will clip into the pre-drilled bolts along the sport route.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190427152340/https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/traditional-climbing-basics.html | url=https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/traditional-climbing-basics.html | title=Trad Climbing Basics | publisher=rei.com | archive-date=Apr 27, 2019}}</ref> |
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Some [[indoor climbing]] walls provide in-situ mechanical [[lead auto belay]] devices |
Some [[indoor climbing]] walls provide in-situ mechanical [[lead auto belay]] devices enablig the climber to lead the route but belayed by the device. Typical versions belay the lead climber from above so the climber is essentially [[top roping]] the route, and does not need to carry any climbing protection.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/caught-by-the-machine-lead-autobelays-to-hit-the-market/ | title=Caught by the Machine: Lead Autobelays to Hit the Market | first=Delaney | last=Miller | date=30 November 2021 | accessdate=1 October 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/lead-climbing-auto-belay-prograde | date=2 December 2021 | first=Sam | last=Anderson | title=Arrested by Machines: Europe's Lead Climbing Auto-Belay Targets US Gyms | magazine=GearJunkie | access-date=1 October 2023}}</ref> |
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== Multi-pitch leading== |
== Multi-pitch leading== |
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{{see also|Multi-pitch climbing}} |
{{see also|Multi-pitch climbing}} |
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Longer climbing routes (e.g as in [[big wall climbing]]), are usually led in series of multiple [[pitch (climbing)|pitches]] of circa {{Convert|35-50|m|ft|adj=off}} in length. In multi-pitch leading, the two climbers can swap the roles of |
Longer climbing routes (e.g. as in [[big wall climbing]]), are usually led in series of multiple [[pitch (climbing)|pitches]] of circa {{Convert|35-50|m|ft|adj=off}} in length. In multi-pitch leading, the two climbers can swap the roles of 'lead climber' and 'second' on successive pitches. The 'second' needs to be comfortable working from a [[Glossary of climbing terms#hanging belay|hanging belay]], and both need to be familiar with the process for swapping between roles safely and efficiently.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-multi-pitch-climb-efficiently/#_pay-wall | title=How to Multi-pitch Lead Climb Efficiently | first=Sara | last=Garlick | date=20 May 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref> Given that average pitch length will be longer, and that the weather potentially poorer, both climbers need to communicate clearly, and know the [[Glossary of climbing terms#climbing command|climbing command]]s.<ref name=CL5>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-to-climb-trad-leading-and-following/ | date=16 November 2016 | first=Julie | last=Ellison | title=Learn to Climb Trad: Leading and Following}}</ref> |
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On long but easier routes, the climbing pair may use [[simul climbing]], whereby both climbers ''simultaneously'' ascend the route. The |
On long but easier routes, the climbing pair may use [[simul climbing]], whereby both climbers ''simultaneously'' ascend the route. The 'lead climber' acts like on a normal lead climb, however, the 'second' does not remain belaying in a static position, but instead also climbs, removing/unclipping the protection equipment of the 'lead climber'. Both climbers are tied to the rope at all times, and both make sure that there are several points of protection in situ between them. Simul climbing is performed on terrain both climbers are comfortable on, as any fall is serious; often the stronger climber goes second.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | title=Advanced Climbing Techniques: Simul-Climbing and Short-Fixing | first=Miranda |last=Oakley | date=23 December 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 |url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/advanced-techniques-simul-climbing-and-short-fixing/#_pay-wall}}</ref> |
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== Competition lead climbing == |
== Competition lead climbing == |
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{{main article|Competition lead climbing}} |
{{main article|Competition lead climbing}} |
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[[File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Garnbret 04.jpg|thumb|[[Janja Garnbret]] in the [[2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships]]]] |
[[File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Garnbret 04.jpg|thumb|[[Janja Garnbret]] in the [[2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships]]]] |
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The |
The arrival of the safer format of [[sport climbing]] in the early 1980s led to a rapid development in the related sport of [[competition lead climbing]].<ref name=GR1>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/events/a-history-of-climbing-competitions-since-1985/ | title=A History of Climbing Competitions Since 1985 | date=15 July 2019 | accessdate=24 February 2023}}</ref> The first major international lead climbing competition was held in Italy at [[Sportroccia]] in 1985.<ref name=GR1/> By the late 1990s, competitive lead climbing was joined by [[competition bouldering]], and [[competition speed climbing]] in what was to become the annual [[IFSC Climbing World Cup]] and biennial [[IFSC Climbing World Championships]].<ref name=GR1/> Competition lead climbing first appeared as an event in the [[2020 Summer Olympics]] for [[Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined|men's]] and [[Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined|women's]] medal events; it was structured in a format consisting of a single "combined" event of lead, bouldering and speed climbing.<ref name=CN2>{{cite web | website=Climber | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-sport-climbing/ | date=6 April 2021 | accessdate=2 March 2023 | title=What Is Sport Climbing? – Everything You Need To Know}}</ref><ref name=GR3>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/olympic-competition-climbing-explained/ | title=Olympic Competition Climbing: Explained | first=Noah | last=Walker | date=26 July 2021 | accessdate=26 February 2023}}</ref> |
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== See also == |
== See also == |
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Latest revision as of 11:22, 19 October 2024
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Lead climbing (or leading) is a technique in rock climbing where the 'lead climber' clips their rope to the climbing protection as they ascend a pitch of the climbing route, while their 'second' (or 'belayer') remains at the base of the route belaying the rope to protect the 'lead climber' in the event that they fall. The term is used to distinguish between the two roles, and the greater effort and increased risk, of the role of the 'lead climber'.
Leading a climb is in contrast with top roping a climb, where even though there is still a 'second' belaying the rope, the 'lead climber' faces little or no risk in the event of a fall and does not need to clip into any protection as the rope is already anchored to the top of the route (i.e. if they fall off, they just hang from the rope). Leading a climbing route is a core activity in rock climbing, and most first ascents and first free ascents are from leading.
Lead climbing can be performed as free climbing, in either a traditional climbing or a sport climbing format — leading a traditional climb is a much riskier and physically demanding exercise for the climber. Competition lead climbing is a sport climbing format that is part of the Olympic sport of competition climbing. Lead climbing can also be performed as aid climbing. The term is not generally applied to free solo climbing, as the free solo climber is already alone and thus there is no need to distinguish the role of 'leader' from the 'second'.
Description
[edit]
Leading a route requires a 'lead climbing pair'. When ascending a route, the 'lead climber' of the pair clips their rope into the climbing protection as they progress up a pitch on a given climbing route. If they are leading a traditional climbing route, the 'lead climber' must arrange and insert 'temporary climbing protection' as they climb. If they are leading a sport climbing route, the climbing protection is already installed via pre-drilled bolts, into which the 'lead climber' only needs to attach quickdraws.[1][2][3] Leading a traditional route is, therefore, a much riskier and physically demanding undertaking than leading a sport climbing route of the same grade.[4]
Aside from the specific additional risks of traditional climbing, every 'lead climber' faces the specific risk of falling twice the distance to their last point of climbing protection — i.e. if the 'lead climber' was 3-metres above their last point of protection, then in a fall, they will fall over 6-metres, thus the rope starts to brake 3-metres below their last point of protection.[4] This aspect makes leading a more physically demanding activity than top roping where the lead climber is immediately held by the top-rope upon falling.[1][2]
Leading a climb also requires good communication between the 'lead climber' and the 'second' who is belaying. In particular, the 'lead climber' will want to avoid the 'second' holding the rope too tightly, which creates "rope drag" that acts as a downward force on the 'lead climber'. However, where the 'lead climber' feels that a fall is imminent, they will want the 'second' to quickly "take in" any slack in the rope to minimize the length of any fall. Once the 'lead climber' has reached the top of the route (or pitch on a multi-pitch climbing route), they will then create a fixed anchor and belay the 'second' from above as the 'second' climbs up, removing any temporary climbing protection that the 'leader' had inserted earlier; note that the 'second' is not themselves 'lead climbing' but are in effect, top roping (e.g. if they fall they will just hang from the rope).[1][2]
First ascent
[edit]The act, and drive, to lead a climb is related to the definition of what is a first ascent (FA), or first free ascent (FFA) in the traditional and sport climbing formats. The grades assigned to traditional and sport climbing routes are based on the climber leading the route, and not top roping it. If a climber wants to test themselves at a specific technical grade or set a new grade milestone, then they must lead the route.[1][2]
Before the arrival of sport climbing in the early-1980s, traditional climbers frowned upon FFAs where the 'lead climber' had practiced the route beforehand on a top rope (called headpointing), or worse still, practiced the crux moves from a hanging fixed rope (called hangdogging). The arrival of sport climbing led to the development of the redpoint as the accepted definition of an FFA, which includes the practices of headpointing and hangdogging. Where a 'lead climber' can complete a route first-time and without any prior knowledge, it is called an onsight (or a flash if they had prior knowledge) and this is still considered the most desirable form of ascent, and is separately recorded in grade milestones and climbing guidebooks.[5][6]
Risk
[edit]
Aside from the specific risks involved in placing the temporary protection equipment while leading traditional climbing routes (i.e. and making sure that it won't fall out in the event of a fall), the 'lead climber' needs to manage several other general risks when they are leading a climbing route, such as:[1][2][4]
- Runout is the distance from the 'lead climber' to the last point of protection. In any fall, the 'lead climber' will fall at least twice the distance of the runout (and sometimes more if the climbing rope has to flex, or if the belayer does not immediately grip the rope tight and lets more rope 'pay-out'). The greater the runout, the greater the total distance in any fall, and the greater the mental pressure on the climber. Some leads involve runouts where any fall could result in a "ground-fall" (or the leader "hitting the deck").[4][7]
- Hitting obstacles during falls. Ironically, extreme climbing routes tend to be very overhanging (e.g. Realization or Silence), and thus where a 'lead climber' falls, they naturally avoid hitting any obstacles on the way down, until the rope holds. In contrast, on easier climbing routes, there is a greater chance of the 'lead climber' hitting against obstacles on the rock face as they fall, thus causing serious injury.[4][7]
- Back-clipping is where the rope is clipped into a quickdraw in such a way that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw carabiner as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the carabiner gate, causing it to open with catastrophic consequences.[4][8]
- Z-clipping is where the 'lead climber' grabs the rope below an already clipped quickdraw and clips it into the next quickdraw, resulting in a "zig-zag" shape of the rope on the wall, which can create immense rope drag making further progress impossible until it is fixed.[4][8]
- Turtling is where one of the 'lead climber's' limbs is behind the rope when they fall, which can result in the climber being "flipped" upside down (i.e. like a turtle on its back), which can then eject the climber from their harness, which is a serious event.[4][8]
Equipment
[edit]
'Lead climbers' on traditional climbing routes carrying their climbing protection on their climbing harness whilst being belayed by their 'Second' who is standing below.
Regardless of the particular type of format that the 'lead climber' is undertaking (i.e. traditional, sport, or aid), they will require a harness attached to one end of a dynamic kernmantle rope (usually via a figure-eight knot). Their 'second'—who will be belaying—will use a mechanical belay device that is clipped into the climbing rope and which 'pays-out' the rope as needed as the 'lead climber' ascends the route, but which can immediately grip the rope tightly in the event that the 'lead climber' falls.[1][2]
Where the 'lead climber' is following a traditional climbing format, they will need to carry an extensive range of protective equipment (often referred to as a 'climbing rack' and is usually worn around the waist being attached to the climbing harness) such as nuts, hexcentrics and tricams (known as "passive" protection), and/or spring-loaded camming devices (or "friends", and known as "active protection"). Where the 'lead climber' is following a sport climbing format, they only need to carry quickdraws (which they will also attach to their climbing harness) that they will clip into the pre-drilled bolts along the sport route.[1][2][9]
Some indoor climbing walls provide in-situ mechanical lead auto belay devices enablig the climber to lead the route but belayed by the device. Typical versions belay the lead climber from above so the climber is essentially top roping the route, and does not need to carry any climbing protection.[10][11]
Multi-pitch leading
[edit]Longer climbing routes (e.g. as in big wall climbing), are usually led in series of multiple pitches of circa 35–50 metres (115–164 ft) in length. In multi-pitch leading, the two climbers can swap the roles of 'lead climber' and 'second' on successive pitches. The 'second' needs to be comfortable working from a hanging belay, and both need to be familiar with the process for swapping between roles safely and efficiently.[12] Given that average pitch length will be longer, and that the weather potentially poorer, both climbers need to communicate clearly, and know the climbing commands.[13]
On long but easier routes, the climbing pair may use simul climbing, whereby both climbers simultaneously ascend the route. The 'lead climber' acts like on a normal lead climb, however, the 'second' does not remain belaying in a static position, but instead also climbs, removing/unclipping the protection equipment of the 'lead climber'. Both climbers are tied to the rope at all times, and both make sure that there are several points of protection in situ between them. Simul climbing is performed on terrain both climbers are comfortable on, as any fall is serious; often the stronger climber goes second.[14]
Competition lead climbing
[edit]
The arrival of the safer format of sport climbing in the early 1980s led to a rapid development in the related sport of competition lead climbing.[15] The first major international lead climbing competition was held in Italy at Sportroccia in 1985.[15] By the late 1990s, competitive lead climbing was joined by competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing in what was to become the annual IFSC Climbing World Cup and biennial IFSC Climbing World Championships.[15] Competition lead climbing first appeared as an event in the 2020 Summer Olympics for men's and women's medal events; it was structured in a format consisting of a single "combined" event of lead, bouldering and speed climbing.[16][17]
See also
[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Lead climbing.
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e f g Potter, Stephen (23 August 2022). "A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ a b c d e f g "What Is Lead Climbing?". Climber (Magazine). 17 June 2021. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ Climbing Staff (4 May 2022). "What's A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ a b c d e f g h "How to Lead Climb". Rock & Ice. 12 September 2016. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (5 November 2022). "Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
- ^ Huttom, Mike (3 November 2022). "How the World's Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way: How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone". Climbing. Retrieved 13 February 2023.
- ^ a b "The Noob's Guide to Rock Climbing". Outside. 16 March 2016. Archived from the original on May 5, 2019.
- ^ a b c "Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid". Grippped Magazine. 1 March 2021. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ "Trad Climbing Basics". rei.com. Archived from the original on Apr 27, 2019.
- ^ Miller, Delaney (30 November 2021). "Caught by the Machine: Lead Autobelays to Hit the Market". Climbing. Retrieved 1 October 2023.
- ^ Anderson, Sam (2 December 2021). "Arrested by Machines: Europe's Lead Climbing Auto-Belay Targets US Gyms". GearJunkie. Retrieved 1 October 2023.
- ^ Garlick, Sara (20 May 2022). "How to Multi-pitch Lead Climb Efficiently". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ Ellison, Julie (16 November 2016). "Learn to Climb Trad: Leading and Following". Climbing.
- ^ Oakley, Miranda (23 December 2022). "Advanced Climbing Techniques: Simul-Climbing and Short-Fixing". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
- ^ a b c "A History of Climbing Competitions Since 1985". Gripped Magazine. 15 July 2019. Retrieved 24 February 2023.
- ^ "What Is Sport Climbing? – Everything You Need To Know". Climber. 6 April 2021. Retrieved 2 March 2023.
- ^ Walker, Noah (26 July 2021). "Olympic Competition Climbing: Explained". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 26 February 2023.
