Abstract
Recent conversations concerning organic food systems have focused on the conventionalization hypothesis, which posits that the organic food sector has become increasingly bifurcated between “historical” players in the organic movement on one side, and on the other by distributors and industrial operators recently arrived in the sector, who practice a more conventionalized form of organic agriculture which is now on the ascendancy. The most prominent explanations for the growth and dominance of a conventionalized organic food system have been economic, based in the logics of input costs, especially land rent. We use the cases of the Belgian Blue commodity system and the Belgian organic beef commodity system to argue that conventionalization is also cognitive. To understand the role of cognition in the ascendance of the conventional organic food sector, we utilize concept of “référentiel”—or system of cognitive references—as developed by Muller and Jobert. We believe that comparing organic and conventional practices as two systems of cognitive references makes a deeper understanding of conventionalization possible in two ways: first because it makes it clear that the two systems coexist on a cognitive level, understood in a broad sense as tightly knit sets of knowledges, beliefs, standards, and images. Secondly, the concept of référentiel enables one to understand how the conventional system can become irreversible (lock-in effect) and thus incompatible with the development of the organic system.
Similar content being viewed by others
Notes
Muller called this structure of meaning a “référentiel” by analogy with the mathematical concept of a set of elements constituting a reference system and its use in the area of training (référentiel de métier or the trade’s set of references or manual). This notion differs from that of the set of technical references that is used in agricultural science to describe a set of reference data that has come out of experimentation conducted under specified conditions and aimed at production and which is actually a translation of the norms, images, and knowledge that surround practices. (de Bonneval, 1993).
The lean-and-tender norm that applies to Belgian beef is diametrically opposed to, for example, the marbling criterion that prevails in certain markets in English-speaking countries.
In addition to the dominant double-muscled Belgium Blue breed, which accounted for 90.5% of the meat breed in Belgium, there is a marginal Belgian Blue mixed breed with a normal mixed conformation, the purpose of which is to preserve the breed’s originally mixed (beef and dairy) production capacity. This marginal branch accounted for 14% of the Belgian Blue breed in 2002 and is decreasing (Service Public Fédéral Economie, P. M. E., Classes Moyennes et Energie, 2003).
Regulation (EEC) 1208/81 defined a EUROP carcass classification based on the quality of the carcass form, which in turn was based on the development of muscle mass profiles. The grades went from E (most compliant carcasses) to P (least compliant carcasses). Regulation 1026/91 added the S grade of carcasses for “super double-muscled Belgian Blue” carcasses. As a result, EUROP became SEUROP with carcasses in the (super) double-muscled Belgian Blue S grade at the top of the hierarchy.
European Union Organic Regulation has provoked in Belgium an important move to organic conversion among beef stock farmers from 1992 to 2000. They represent today 85% of the converted area to organic production in Belgium. Nevertheless, only a small part, about 15% of the organic stock farmers “finished” their cattle to market them on the organic market. The remaining 85% organic stock farmers sell their cattle on the conventional market that finish the cattle in traditional feed-lot. This is only possible because the EU provides subsidies for organic stock farming but does not require that these cattle remain on the organic market. Moreover, the organic beef market structure is oligopolistic: one of the main Belgium retailers has about 55% of the market share and his food chain is furnished by only 20 Belgium beef stock farmers. The analysis of the organic beef commodity system at national level food chain “référentiel” therefore rests on the data collected on the 20 farmers who sell to the organic market.
References
Aertsens, J., & Van Huylenbroeck, G. (2007). Characteristics of the Belgium organic beef sector. In P. Stassart, M. Mormont, D. Jamar, D. Stilmant, J. Aerstens, & G. Van Huylenbroeck (Eds.), How can organic farming contribute to sustainable production and consumption patterns (pp. 15–21). Brussel: Belgian Science Policy.
Baret, P. (2005). Le Blanc Bleu Belge: Un paradoxe génétique (p. 3). Louvain La Neuve.
Benford, R. D., & Snow, D. A. (2000). Framing process and social movements: An overview and assessment. Annual Review of Sociology, 26, 611–639.
Best, H. (2007). Organic agriculture and the conventionalization hypothesis: A case study from West Germany. Agriculture and Human Values, 25(1), 95–106.
Bourn, D., & Prescott, J. (2002). Critical reviews. Food Science and Nutrition, 42, 1–34.
Buck, D., Getz, C., & Guthman, J. (1997). From farm to table: The organic vegetable commodity chain of Northern California. Sociologia Ruralis, 37(1), 3–20.
Callon, M. (1986). Eléments pour une sociologie de la traduction. La domestication des coquilles Saint-Jacques et des marins-pêcheurs dans la baie de Saint-Brieuc. L'Année sociologique, 36, 169–208.
Campbell, H., & Liepins, R. (2001). Naming organics: Understanding organic standards in New Zealand as a discursive field. Sociologia Ruralis, 41(1), 21–39.
Coopman, F., Van Zeveren, A., & Peelman, L. (2001). Ontstaangeschiedenis van het Belgisch Witblauw Rundvee en de rol van genetica in de verdere ontwikkeling van dit ras. Vlaams Diergeneesckundig Tijdschrift, 70, 88–103.
Cowan, R., & Gunby, P. (1996). Sprayed to death: Path dependence, lock-in and pest control strategies. Economic Journal, 106(436), 521–542.
Darnhofer, I. (2006). Organic farming between professionalisation and conventionalisation. The need for more discerning view on farm practices. Odense: European Joint Organic Congress. http://orgprints.org/7390/. Accessed 24 June 2008.
de Bonneval, L. (1993). Systèmes agraires, systèmes de production: vocabulaire français-anglais avec index anglais. Paris: INRA Éditions.
Fouilleux, E. (2003). La politique agricole commune et ses réformes; une politique à l’épreuve de la globalisation. Paris: L’Harmattan.
Friedland, B. (2005). Commodity systems: Forward to comparative analysis. In N. Fold, & B. Pritchard (Eds.), Cross-continental food chains (pp. 25–34). London: Taylor & Francis Group.
Godard, O., & Hubert, B. (2002). Le développement durable et la Recherche Scientifique à L'INRA. Paris: INRA.
Goodman, D., & DuPuis, E. M. (2002). Knowing food and growing food: Beyond the production-consumption debate in the sociology of agriculture. Sociologia Ruralis, 42(1), 5–22.
Goodman, D., Sorj, B., & Wilkinson, J. (1987). From farming to biotechnology. Oxford: Basil Blackwell.
Grobet, L., Pirottin, D., Farnir, F., Poncelent, D., Royo, L. J., Brouwers, B., Christians, E., Desmecht, D., Coignoul, F., Kahn, R., & Georges, M. (2003). Modulating skeletal muscle mass by postnatal muscle-specific inactivation of the myostatin gene. Genesis, 35, 227–238.
Guthman, J. (2002). Commodified meanings, meaningful commodities: Re-thinking production-consumption links through the organic system of provision. Sociologia Ruralis, 42(4), 295–311.
Guthman, J. (2004a). The trouble with ‘organic lite’ in California: A rejoinder to the conventionalisation. Sociologia Ruralis, 44(3), 301–316.
Guthman, J. (2004b). Agrarian dreams: The paradox of organic farming in California. Berkeley: University of California Press.
Hall, A., & Mogyorody, V. (2001). Organic farmers in Ontario: An examination of the conventionalization argument. Sociologia Ruralis, 41(4), 399–322.
Hanset, R. (1996). Le Blanc-Bleu Belge face à la nouvelle donne économique. Les Elevages Belges, 3, 12–21.
Hanset, R. (2002). Le Blanc Bleu Belge et la Césarienne. Publication Herd-Book BBB, 3, 1–27.
Heclo, H. (1978). Issue networks and the executive establishment. In A. King (Ed.), The new American political system. Washington DC: American Entreprise Institute.
IFOAM (2005). The principles of organic agriculture. http://www.ifoam.org/about_ifoam/principles/index.html. Accessed 18 November 2007.
Jaffe, J., & Gertler, M. (2006). Victual vicissitudes: Consumer deskilling and the (gendered) transformation of food systems. Agriculture and Human Value, 23(2), 143–162.
Jamar, D., Decruyvenaere, V., Stassart, P., & Stilmant, D. (2006). Reconversion to organic farming, between organic rules and agro-food chain referential: How to fit out the organic fattening referential? In C. B. Andreasen, L. Elsgaard, S. Søndergaard, & G. Hansen (Eds.), Proceeding of European Joint Organic Congress, Odense, May 30–31, Organic Eprint: http://www.orgprints.org.
Jobert, B., & Muller, P. (1987). L’état en action, politique publiques et corporatismes, Paris: PUF.
Kaltoft, P. (1999). Values about nature in organic farming “practice and knowledge”. Sociologia Ruralis, 39(1), 39–53.
Landais, E. (1996). Elevage bovin et développement durable. Courier de l'environnement, 29, 59–72.
Law, J. (1994). Organizing modernity. Oxford: B. Blackwell.
Lips, D., De Tavernier, J., Decuypere, E., & Van Outryve, J. (2001). Ethical objections to cesareans: Implication on the future of the Belgian White Blue. In M. Pasquali (Ed.), EurSafe 2001, food safety, food quality, food ethics (pp. 291–294). The Third Congress of the European Society for Agricultural and Food Ethics, 3–5 October, Florence, Italy, Preprints.
Lockie, S., & Halpin, D. (2005). The ‘Conventionalisation’ thesis reconsidered: Structural and ideological transformation of Australian organic agriculture. Sociologia Ruralis, 45(4), 284–307.
Lockie, S., Lyons, K., & Lawrence, G. (2000). Constructing green foods: Corporate capital, risk, organic farming in Australia and New Zealand. Agriculture and Human Values, 17, 315–322.
Majone, G. (1989). Evidence, argument and persuasion in the policy process. New Haven: Yale University Press.
McMahon, N. (2005). Biodynamic farmers in Ireland. Transforming society through purity, solitude and bearing witness? Sociologia Ruralis, 45(1–2), 98–114.
Micoud, A. (2003). Ces bonnes vaches aux yeux si doux. In F. Dubost, & B. Lizet (Eds.), Bienfaisante nature (pp. 217–236). Paris: Le Seuil.
Mooney, P. H., & Hunt, S. A. (1996). A Repertoire Of Interpretations: Master frames and ideological continuity in U.S. Agrarian mobilization. The Sociological Quarterly, 37(1), 177–197.
Morgan, K., & Murdoch, J. (2000). Organic vs. conventional agriculture: Knowledge, power and innovation in the food chain. Geoforum, 31(2), 159–173.
Muller, P. (1989). Airbus, l’ambition européenne. Logique d’Etat, logique de marché. Paris: L’Harmattan.
Muller, P. (1995). Les politiques publiques comme construction d’un rapport au monde. In A. Faure, G. Pollet, & P. Warin (Eds.), La construction du sens dans les politiques publiques. Débat autour de la notion de référentiel (pp. 153–179). Paris: L’Harmattan.
Muller, P. (2000). L’analyse cognitive des politiques publiques: Vers une sociologie politique de l’action publique. Revue Française de Sciences Politique, 2(50), 189–209.
Mutersbaugh, T. (2005). Fighting standards with standards: Harmonization and social accountability in certified Agrofood networks. Environment and Planning A, 37(11), 2033–2051.
Riedler, J., Braun-Fahrländer, C., Eder, W., Schreuer, M., Waser, M., Maisch, S., & et al. (2001). Exposure to farming in early life and development of asthma and allergy: A cross-sectional survey. The Lancet, 358, 1129–1133.
Ruttan, V. W. (1997). Induced innovation, evolutionary theory and path dependence: Sources of technical change. The Economic Journal, 107, 1520–1529.
Sabatier, P. A., & Jenkins-Smith, H. (1993). Policy change and learning and advocacy coalition approach. Boulder: Westview Press.
Smit, A., Driessen, P. P. J., & Glasbergen, P. (2006). Constraints on the conversion to sustainable production: The case of the Dutch potato chain. Business Strategy and the Environment. http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/abstract/112773392/ABSTRACT?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0. Accessed 17 November 2007.
Sonnet, R. (1982). Analytical study on retail cuts form the double muscled animal. In J. W. B. King & F. Ménissier (Eds.), Muscle hypertrophy of genetic origin and its use to improve beef production (pp. 565–574). The Hague: Martinus Nijhoff
Stass, S. (2007). «Tant que Piétrains et sélectionneur collaborent». Departement of Environmental Sciences and Management. Arlon, Université de Liège. DEA Environmental Sciences and Management, 152 p.
Stassart, P. (2003). Produit Fermier: Entre qualification et identité. Brussels: Presses Interuniversitaires Européennes Peter Lang.
Stassart, P. (2005). Construction d’un marché alternatif de viande bovine fermière. Economie Rurale (286–287), 28–43.
Stassart, P., & Jamar, D. (forthcoming). Conventional dynamics: Missing protocol and legitimacy systems, relationship between organic stock farmers and retailers in transition towards sustainability. Sociologia Ruralis.
Stassart, P., Mormont, M., & Jamar, D. (in press). Recherche Intervention pour une Transistion vers le Développement Durable. Economie Rurale, 308.
Stassart, P., Mormont, M., Jamar, D., Stilmant, D., Aerstens, J., & Van Huylenbroeock, G. (2007). How can organic farming contribute to sustainable production and consumption patterns (p. 182). Brussel: Belgian Science Policy.
Stassart, P., & Whatmore, S. (2003). Metabolizing risk: Food scares and the un/re-making of Belgian beef. Environment and Planning A, 35(3), 449–462.
Tovey, H. (1997). Food, environmentalism and rural sociology: On the organic farming movement in Ireland. Sociologia Ruralis, 37(1), 21–37.
Thrift, N. (2003). Qualification de l'origine des viandes bovines selon les manières de produire. Dissertation in Zootechnic Sciences, Departement Animal Sciences. INAP-G, Paris, 442 p.
Van der Aa, W. (1992). Manuel du boucher charcutier. Deurne: MIM.
Vos, T. (2000). Visions of the middle landscape: Organic farming and the politics of nature. Agriculture and Human Values, 17(3), 245–256.
Whatmore, S., & Thorne, L. (1997). Nourishing networks: Alternative geographies of food. In D. Goodman and M. Watts (Eds.), Globalising food (pp. 287–304). London: Routledge.
Wilkinson, J. (2006). Fish: A global value chain driven onto the rocks. Sociologia Ruralis, 46(2), 139–153.
Acknowledgments
We want to thank the Agrofood Studies Research Working Group at the University of California, Santa Cruz for a period of fruitful exchange in Fall 2007, and especially E. Melanie DuPuis and David Goodman who encouraged us to introduce the concept of referential and lock-in to the discussion about the broader societal meaning of organic agriculture. We also would like to thank the editor of this special issue Daniel Niles, for his continuous encouragements and the two anonymous referees. This research has been funded by the ANR—“National Agency for Research” in the “Agriculture and Sustainable Development Program,” project ANR 05 PADD-0602 called “Consumers Collective and Sustainable Consumption.” It continues work started in the project on organic agriculture in the “Program of Support for Sustainable Development” (Belgium Federal Service of Scientific Policy).
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Stassart, P.M., Jamar, D. Steak up to the horns!. GeoJournal 73, 31–44 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10708-008-9176-2
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10708-008-9176-2