The golden rule of stardom is always leave your audience wanting more, and no one understands that better than Japanese music star Namie Amuro. Dubbed the Madonna of Japan, Amuro has been making hits since the mid-’90s, delivering a provocative, hip-hop-influenced sound that has proven influential. She has been the reigning queen of the J-pop scene for 25 years, inspiring both the music and the style of the acts that followed her. In a business defined by its revolving door of teenage talent, she is one of a few performers to successfully make the transition from girl group member to solo act and maintain her relevance for decades. Amuro has created songs that have become iconic—her track “Can You Celebrate” remains the top-selling Japanese single by a solo artist more than 20 years after its release—while cultivating an image as a rule-breaker, which makes her latest move all the more fascinating. This past September, on the eve of her 40th birthday, she announced that she’d be stepping away from public life.
The impact of Amuro’s retirement on the music industry is clear. But her songs aren’t the only important aspect of her legacy. Amuro’s influence in the world of fashion was every bit as interesting. She dabbled in modeling after debuting as part of girl group Super Monkey’s back in 1992, and her confidence in front of the camera brought her the attention that would eventually propel her to the position of group leader. When the group rebranded itself as Namie Amuro with Super Monkey’s, it was clear that she was stealing a page from Diana Ross’s playbook. By the time she went solo with “Body Feels Exit” in 1995, Amuro had established herself as an alternative to the typical idol. She spawned the “Amuraa” style, a look focused on tan skin, short skirts, and platform combat boots, inspiring a legion of fans who emulated her every outfit. Avoiding the cutesy school girl looks favored by her contemporaries, Amuro instead sought out pieces that were daring. In an era when idols weren’t yet clad in head-to-toe designer looks, she was influenced by the runways, frequently wearing pieces from Chanel and Versace. She also embraced the bling-y luxury aesthetic of ’90s hip-hop videos, helping to popularize the oversized streetwear look in Japan.
Amuro often challenged Japanese social mores by simply living her life. When she decided to get tattoos in honor of her son and mother, her much-discussed body art broke with tradition. As she was one of the only women in J-pop to sport prominent ink, it was a bold statement. Likewise her status as a performer over the age of 30 who fearlessly sports sexier styles, such as ruffled mini-skirts, corsetry, and thigh-high boots, made her an anomaly within the teen-focused music scene.
Amuro’s influence on fashion is certainly clear at the shows of Tokyo Fashion Week, which are currently in full swing. Labels including DressedUndressed and HARE are doubling down on the elevated streetwear and cool ’90s fashion trends she pioneered. While it has become common for musicians to “retire” only to return shortly thereafter—Jay-Z, Justin Bieber, and Lauryn Hill have all stepped away from music at one point—Amuro has made her intentions clear. Updating her social media with the equivalent of a two weeks notice letter, she gave fans an end date—September 16, 2018—while thanking them for their years of devotion. With a final tour set for early next year, it’s likely that there are still a few great fashion moments in her future, but the legacy she’s created will live on long after she’s sung her last tune.