Home Improvement Skills & Specialties Carpentry & Woodworking

18 Types of Wood Joinery and When to Use Them

Find the best type of wood joints for different projects at home

By
Kamron Sanders
Kamron Sanders Kamron Sanders
Kamron Sanders
Kamron Sanders is a home improvement expert and writer with over 15 years of hands-on construction, remodeling, woodworking, home repair, and landscaping experience. He has also written for HGTV. Kamron's expertise ranges from troubleshooting saws and lawnmowers to painting kitchen cabinets.
Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process
Updated on 09/28/24
Reviewed by
Deane Biermeier
Deane Biermeier Deane Biermeier
Reviewed by Deane Biermeier
Deane Biermeier is an expert contractor with nearly 30 years of experience in all types of home repair, maintenance, and remodeling. He is a certified lead carpenter and also holds a certification from the EPA. Deane is a member of The Spruce's Home Improvement Review Board.
Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board
Illustration showing the different types of wood joints Illustration showing the different types of wood joints

The Spruce

A wood joint is any direct connection locking together two or more pieces of wood. You can use several methods to join wood pieces, each serving a different purpose. Some are stronger, some are more aesthetically pleasing, some are complex, and some are basic. Read ahead to learn the many common types of wood joints and when to use them.

Types of Wood Joints

Strength Complexity Common Uses
Basic butt joint Low Low Building framing
 Mitered butt joint Low Medium Trim work, furniture
 Dowel joint Medium Medium Picture and mirror frames, chairs, tables
 Biscuit joint High Medium Tabletops, cabinetry
 Dado joint Medium Medium Shelving, cabinetry, drawer dividers
 Rabbet joint Medium Medium Shelving, cabinetry
Mortise-and-tenon joint High High Building framing, tables, beds
Box joint High High Boxes, drawers, picture frames
Through dovetail joint High High Boxes, drawers, tables
 Half-blind dovetail joint High High Boxes, drawers
Sliding dovetail High Medium Drawer dividers, cabinetry, shelving
 Half-lap joint Low Low Tables, building framing
Bridle joint Medium Medium Tables, desks, benches
Tongue-and-groove joint Medium Medium Flooring, tables, wood paneling
Pocket joint Low Medium Cabinet faces, tables, chairs
Mitered blind dovetail joint High High Furniture, cabinetry, drawers
Edge joint Low Medium Table tops
Tambour joint Medium High Furniture
  • 01 of 18

    Basic Butt Joint

    Closeup showing a butt joint

    The Spruce / Chris Baylor

    A butt joint is the most basic kind of wood joint where the end of one piece of material butts up to another without any shaping done to the material. Because this technique utilizes minimal surface area for glue, it's not a strong joint unless supported by additional fasteners such as nails and screws. This simple joint is typical for building framing and other applications that utilize additional fasteners for strength.

    Tip

    To strengthen a basic butt joint, use a pocket hole, which is a hole hiding a screw that fastens the two pieces of material tightly together. Once screwed in, plug the hole using some wood putty to make it virtually invisible.

  • 02 of 18

    Mitered Butt Joint

    Mitered butt joint Mitered butt joint

    The Spruce / Chris Baylor

    A mitered butt joint is similar to a basic butt joint in that the two pieces of wood meet flush against each other, looking more finished. Two angled boards join at the ends to form a compound angle, such as two boards cut at 45 degrees joined to form a 90-degree angle. This joint is also not the strongest if you only use glue, so reinforce it with screws or nails to make it more secure. The mitered cuts hide the end grain of both boards. These joints are often used to join trim pieces in a corner.

  • 03 of 18

    Dowel Joint

    Newly constructed dowel joinery Newly constructed dowel joinery

     AMLBox / Getty Images

    A dowel joint is an improved butt joint that relies on hidden dowels for strength, although this isn't the strongest joint since it doesn't use nails or screws. Create this joint by drilling opposing holes into the two wooden pieces and placing a wooden dowel in the holes, typically with adhesive. The dowel acts as a mechanical fastener by bonding with the glue while also helping to align the pieces. Furniture builders commonly use dowel joints to make furniture. This joint is also used to make mirrors and picture frames.

  • 04 of 18

    Biscuit Joint

    Biscuit Joint Biscuit Joint

     Flickr

    A biscuit joint is like a dowel joint but relies on a hidden material within the joint that adds strength and surface area for glue. Screws or staples do not hold it together. An oval-shaped compressed beechwood biscuit and glue are inserted into slits in the wood; it has a medium strength capacity. The moisture in the glue causes the biscuit to swell, strengthening the glue's bond. This joint is popular in furniture making, particularly for joining wood to make tabletops.

    Continue to 5 of 18 below
  • 05 of 18

    Dado Joint

    Cutting a Dado Cutting a Dado
    JSABBOTT / Getty Images

    A dado is a three-sided, U-shaped groove cut into a piece of stock for another piece to fit into, forming a right angle. This simple joint is often utilized for furniture building, such as shelving, cabinetry, and drawer dividers. It uses glue to secure the two wood pieces in the joint, requiring no nails or screws. It holds with a medium strength capacity.

  • 06 of 18

    Rabbet Joint

    Rabbet joint Rabbet joint

    seen by hotshot / Getty Images

    A rabbet joint is similar to a dado cut at the edge of a piece of material. Although, instead of being U-shaped, it's L-shaped. This type of joint is similar to a basic butt joint, hiding the other stock's end grain. The removed material adds additional rigidity and surface area for gluing. It still holds at a medium-strength capacity since it does not use screws or nails. This joint is popular in cabinetry and furniture building.

  • 07 of 18

    Mortise-and-Tenon Joint

    Mortise and tenon corner joint timber frame Mortise and tenon corner joint timber frame
    John Burke / Getty Images

    A mortise-and-tenon joint is one of the strongest joints created when a tenon is fitted within a mortise. A mortise is a removed section of material within a piece of stock, while a tenon is a projection cut at the end of a piece of stock. This strong connection can be friction-fitted, glued, or reinforced with nails and screws. This joint is often utilized in furniture making to join bed frames and table legs. It is also used in traditional barn building and home framing.

  • 08 of 18

    Box Joint

    Closeup of a box joint Closeup of a box joint

    The Spruce / Chris Baylor

    A box joint (sometimes called a finger joint) is made by cutting a sequence of equidistant square notches in a piece of stock and then cutting opposing notches in a second piece. The two sets of notches, known as fingers, are then laced together. When supported with glue, these joints boast superior strength due to the joint's immense surface area. You can also reinforce these joints with nails. This simple yet effective joint is perfect for boxes and drawers.

    Continue to 9 of 18 below
  • 09 of 18

    Through Dovetail Joint

    Painted open drawer in Oak showing dovetail Joints Painted open drawer in Oak showing dovetail Joints
    JuanMuino / Getty Images

    A through dovetail joint is a more complex, self-locking iteration of a finger joint that utilizes tapered notches with corresponding tenons that lace together. The tapered design creates a beautiful visual visible on both sides of the joint and is the strongest joint due to its interlocking qualities. It can also be reinforced with glue and does not require nails or screws. This popular joint is a great option for general furniture building, drawers, and boxes requiring above-average strength.

  • 10 of 18

    Half-Blind Dovetail Joint

    Closeup of half blind dovetail joint Closeup of half blind dovetail joint
    Ingram Publishing/Getty Images

    A half-blind dovetail joint is an even more complex iteration of the standard dovetail joint. It allows one side of the joint to be hidden while maintaining the superior strength of the tapered dovetail joint. This joint can also be reinforced with adhesives and requires no other fasteners. A common use case for this joint is in drawer construction, where visibility of the joint at the drawer front isn't desired.

  • 11 of 18

    Sliding Dovetail

    The Spruce / Chris Baylor

    A sliding dovetail is a combination of a dovetail and a dado joint. This joint features a three-sided channel, much like a dado, with a tapered shape, like a dovetail. This design offers more strength and locking qualities than a standard dado and can be used similarly.

  • 12 of 18

    Half-Lap Joint

    Half-lap joint Half-lap joint

    The Spruce / Chris Baylor

    A half-lap is a joint with a removed section of wood equal to half the depth of another piece. The two notched pieces fit flush together; however, removing the wood weakens the joint. To strengthen the joint, reinforce it with glue or physical fasteners. The joint is more rigid if placed in the middle of the wood. When placed at the end of the wood, it's called an end lap and is significantly weaker. This joint is often used in building framing and furniture building.

    Continue to 13 of 18 below
  • 13 of 18

    Bridle Joint

    closeup of a bridle joint closeup of a bridle joint

    Banalities / flickr / CC BY 2.0

    A bridle joint is a stronger alternative to a half-lap joint. Rather than two laps joining together, the bridle joint features a tenon on one piece of stock and an open-ended mortise on the second piece of stock. Each tenon side has a gluing surface, which strengthens the joint by increasing the surfacing gluing area. This joint doesn't use metal fasteners. Bridle joints are popular in framing tables, desks, and benches.

  • 14 of 18

    Tongue-and-Groove Joint

    Tongue and groove joint Tongue and groove joint

    The Spruce / Chris Baylor

    A tongue-and-groove joint is a popular option in flooring and wood paneling. One piece of wood has the tongue side, while the adjoining piece has a groove that fits into it. The two pieces lock tightly together, although they only have a medium strength capacity. To strengthen the joinery, use glue or nails.

  • 15 of 18

    Pocket Joint

    Pocket Joint Pocket Joint

    A pocket joint is a type of joinery that involves cutting a slot and pre-drilling a pilot hole between two boards before connecting them with a screw. This task requires high accuracy, achieved with a commercial jig. Pocket joints are ideal for the face frames of cabinetry and other projects requiring minimal strength.

  • 16 of 18

    Mitered Blind Dovetail Joint

    A mitered blind dovetail joint is a blind joint, meaning you can't see the joinery. It uses interlocking dovetail-shaped notches and is mitered so the outer edge of the joint comes to a 45-degree angle. This complex joint is often used for refined woodworking. Although dovetail joints don't need adhesives, they do strengthen the joint. These joints are primarily used for cabinetry, drawers, and furniture making.

    Continue to 17 of 18 below
  • 17 of 18

    Edge Joint

    Edge joints create a more extended wood surface by joining planks along the long edge, like a butt joint. You can use a strong adhesive or more elaborate techniques like tongue-and-grooves or biscuit joints to strengthen the bond. It's not too difficult to do with glue and a good planer. However, the planning and matching up of the edges will need to be precise. Nails and screws are not usually used with edge joints, so they are not the strongest and can buckle with too much weight.

  • 18 of 18

    Tambour Joint

    A tambour joint is made with a ball and socket for joinery that allows movement between wood pieces, such as a roll-top desk or breadbox door. This joinery does not require glue or fasteners. The interlocking joint allows the joined pieces to move, flex, and move along a track. It's complex to create, requiring good millworking equipment to get it right.

How to Choose the Best Wood Joint

Once you've narrowed the joint types, deciding which you need or want will be about striking a balance between complexity, beauty, and strength. For example, if you need the strongest joint for a project, you might gravitate toward the mortise-and-tenon joint. However, if you want the easiest joint, you might join wood using a butt joint.

Modifying Wood Joints

Many wood joints above feature a handful of modified varieties that can increase their strength, beauty, and complexity. Additionally, these wood joints can be paired with mechanical fasteners in some applications, adding to their strength and saving time during construction.

FAQ
  • What is the strongest way to join two pieces of wood together?

    While there are many adequately strong ways to join wood, a properly executed mortise-and-tenon joint is the strongest option.

  • What is the simplest form of wood joint?

    The easiest wood joint to execute is the butt joint, as it requires no special shaping of the wood before joining. However, many stronger and more attractive options require minimal prep work.

  • How do you make seamless wood joints?

    There are many beautiful ways to join wood, each appealing to a different application. Non-visible connectors can keep your project sturdy and attractive and make it appear seamless. Some common types of non-visible connectors are biscuit and hook connectors. Choose the correct one to ensure your project turns out as you envisioned.

  • Which wood joint is most versatile?

    Mortise-and-tenon joints are among the most versatile because they are solid and durable and can be used for all sorts of things, such as furniture and framing structures that can hold weight. It's also easy to see how the two pieces fit together.