Long, long ago, when the world was new, Wākea, the Sky Father, looked down and saw the beauty of Papa, the Earth Mother. Her ocean garment flowed about her body, moving gracefully, and the bioluminescence glimmered like the stars above in Wākea’s kīhei of night. From this love was born mountains which rose high above Papa’s waves, touching the face of their father. He placed beautiful lei of clouds on their heads, and Papa placed beautiful lei of sea foam on their necks.
- Keola Magazine, Myths and Legends of Mauna Kea
Mauna Kea is a sacred place. In Hawaiian culture, it is considered to be the realm of Akua (Gods). Translated from Hawaiian, “Mauna Kea” literally means "White Mountain" but it is also known as "Mauna a Wakea". Mauna a Wakea is the first-born mountain son of Wakea and Papa, the progenitors of the Hawaiian islands and people.
At 33,000 ft., Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain in the world if measured from the sea floor where it began forming millennia ago. A massive shield volcano, it last erupted over 4,600 years ago. Located at the center of the Big Island, Mauna Kea is a beloved destination by locals and visitors alike for star gazing, stunning sunrises and sunsets, and the rare “Hawaiian Snow Day” in the winter months. Read on to learn more about visiting Mauna Kea.
To reach Mauna Kea, take Saddle Road to Mauna Kea access road. It’s an approximately 1.5 hour (64 mile) drive from Kailua-Kona to the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station located at 9,200 ft. (2,804 m.) The Visitor Information Station can be reached by regular car. The summit of Mauna Kea is located at 13,796 ft. (4,205 m.) and can only be accessed by 4x4 vehicle. Make sure you have a full tank of gas for the trip.
The Visitor Information Station is currently closed due to COVID-19, however visitor parking and portable toilets are still open to the public. The Visitor Information Station normal hours of operation are from 9 am to 6 pm daily. The station offers an informational film and displays on Mauna Kea as well as a gift shop and cafe with snacks and drinks.
Snow capped Mauna Kea. Image credit at top and here: Andrew Hara.
Mauna Kea is known as a world-class stargazing location. High altitude, no light pollution, and a thin atmosphere contribute to excellent conditions for viewing Hawaii’s night sky with the naked eye. Watch out for shooting stars! Stargazing conditions are best at the Visitor Information Station at 9,200 ft., rather than the summit.
Mauna Kea offers spectacular sunrise and sunset views from its slopes. The best views are from the summit, but if you aren’t able to get there, views are also good from the Visitor Information Station. Check the weather forecast as clear mornings and nights make for optimal conditions and striking colors.
Sunset from Mauna Kea’s summit. Image credit: @andre.frra.
The Hawaiian snow goddess Poli‘ahu visits the summit of Mauna Kea in the winter months, cloaking the mountain in white. When snow falls on Mauna Kea, many island residents head to the summit for a “Hawaiian Snow Day”. Snow revelers make snowmen and go sledding (using boogie boards). Be aware that sledding on Mauna Kea can be dangerous. People have been seriously injured. There are exposed rocks in the snow and you can reach very high speeds.
After a snowfall, the road to the summit is often closed until the driving conditions are deemed safe. Check current weather conditions and summit road access before you go by calling: 808 935 6268.
Be aware that if you plan to go to the summit, a 4x4 vehicle with 4 wheel drive “low” capability is required. The road to the summit is not paved. Most rental car agencies do not permit taking the rental vehicle up to the Mauna Kea summit. Before driving up to the summit, you must check in at the Visitor Information Station. It is advised that you wait at least 30 minutes before ascending to the summit to give your body a chance to acclimate to the altitude. The summit access road closes 30 minutes after sunset and re-opens 30 minutes before sunrise.
The paved Mauna Kea access road up to the Visitor Information Station is open 24 hours.
The website Big Island Hikes offers excellent information on hiking trails on and around Mauna Kea. Find them listed under the “Saddle Road” tab.
If you are going to visit Mauna Kea, make sure to come prepared as it is an extreme environment and very isolated. Temperatures on Mauna Kea can get down to 30-40 ℉ (-1-+4 ℃). It is particularly chilly in the winter months (December to February) and at night. During the day time, it is easy to get a bad sunburn. If you’re venturing up the mountain, here’s what we recommend:
Dress in layers: warm coat, long pants, hat, gloves, socks, boots or shoes
Bring sun protection: sunscreen and sunglasses
Bring an extra blanket or sleeping bag
Bring plenty of water and snacks
Make sure you have a full tank of gas…the nearest gas station is 35 miles away
It is possible to get altitude sickness on Mauna Kea. Watch for signs and symptoms during your visit. Make sure to stop for at least 30 minutes at the Visitor Information Station before ascending to the summit to give your body a chance to adjust. Do not do scuba diving for at least 24 hours before going up the mountain.
Mauna Kea is at the center of an ongoing dispute between Native Hawaiian activists and proponents of the TMT (Thirty Meter Telescope). In 2019, activists camped out at the base of the mountain from June to December, making international headlines and stalling TMT construction, which activists believe to be a desecration of sacred land. Many protestors, including Kupuna (elders) were arrested during the non-violent demonstration. The mountain’s summit is already home to thirteen international observatories.
Remember, Mauna Kea is a Wahi Pana (sacred place). When visiting, be respectful. Stay on all roads and trails. Do not disturb or remove rocks or shrines. Leave no trace. Bring only good energy.