Mission Furniture: How to Make It
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Mission Furniture - H. H. Windsor
Copyright © 2010 by Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.
All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 555 Eighth Avenue, Suite 903, New York, NY 10018.
Skyhorse Publishing books may be purchased in bulk at special discounts for sales promotion, corporate gifts, fund-raising, or educational purposes. Special editions can also be created to specifications. For details, contact the Special Sales Department, Skyhorse Publishing, 555 Eighth Avenue, Suite 903, New York, NY 10018 or info@skyhorsepublishing.com.
www.skyhorsepublishing.com
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Windsor, H. H. (Henry Haven), 1859-1924.
Mission furniture : how to make it / by H.H. Windsor.
p. cm.
ISBN 978-1-60239-786-6
1. Furniture, Mission--Design and construction. I. Title.
TT195.W56 2010
684.1--dc22
2009039985
Printed in China
Publisher’s Note
The three original books by H. H. Windsor were published in 1909, 1910, and 1912. This combined volume has very little repetitive material in it. Obviously the first book was so popular that the author decided to broaden the range to better penetrate the market. The resulting material is as generally applicable today as it was when first printed. The images in this edition have been colorized to give the reader a better sense of how the finished pieces can look.
Full Table of Contents
Title Page
CONTENTS: Part I
HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR
HOW TO MAKE A LAMP STAND AND SHADE
HOW TO MAKE A PORCH CHAIR
HOW TO MAKE A TABOURET
HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR
HOME-MADE MISSION BOOK RACK
HOW TO MAKE A MISSION LIBRARY TABLE
HOME-MADE MISSION CANDLESTICK
ANOTHER STYLE OF MISSION CHAIR
HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH A MAGAZINE STAND
HOME-MADE LAWN SWING
HOW TO MAKE A PORTABLE TABLE
HOW TO MAKE A COMBINATION BILLIARD TABLE AND DAVENPORT
EASILY MADE BOOK SHELVES
A BLACKING CASE TABOURET
HOW TO MAKE A ROLL TOP DESK
HOW TO MAKE A ROMAN CHAIR
HOW TO MAKE A SETTEE
HOW TO MAKE A PYROGRAPHER’S TABLE
MISSION STAINS
FILLING OAK
WAX FINISHING
THE FUMING OF OAK
HOW TO MAKE BLACK WAX
THE 40 STYLES OF CHAIRS
HOW TO MAKE A PIANO BENCH
HOW TO MAKE A MISSION SHAVING STAND
A MISSION WASTE-PAPER BASKET
A CELLARETTE PEDESTAL
A DRESSER
A MISSION SIDEBOARD
A HALL OR WINDOW SEAT
A MISSION PLANT STAND
A BEDSIDE MEDICINE STAND
A MISSION HALL CHAIR
CONTENTS: Part II
AN OAK BUFFET
OAK STAIN
A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK
A ROCKING CHAIR
A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR
A PLATE RACK
TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES
A MAGAZINE TABLE
A WASTE PAPER BASKET
AN OAK WRITING DESK
AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS
ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM
HOW TO BEND WOOD
A SMOKING STAND
A CHINA CLOSET
A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL
ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK
A MUSIC STAND
MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END GRAIN OF WOOD
A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR
A SIDE CHAIR
AN ARM CHAIR
A BOOKCASE
A LAMP STAND
AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE
AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST
A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES
A DRESSER FOR CHILD’S PLAYROOM
CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW
ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP
ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET
AN OAK BEDSTEAD
AN OAK FOOTSTOOL
A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING
A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH
A LADY’S WRITING DESK
A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL
HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL
A MEDICINE CABINET
CONTENTS: Part III
A PIANO BENCH
A LIBRARY TABLE
A PRINCESS DRESSER
A SEWING BOX
A FERN STAND
A WARDROBE
A FINISH
AN OAK TABLE
BOOK TROUGH
AN OAK SERVING TABLE
AN UMBRELLA STAND
A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET
A WRITING DESK
MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND
A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND
A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR
A WALL SHELF
A PEDESTAL
MAGAZINE RACK
A HALL TREE
A TABLE FOR THE DEN
A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT
QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE
A SCREEN
A MISSION BOOKRACK
A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE
AN ARM DINING CHAIR
A HALL BENCH
A SEWING TABLE
A SIDE CHAIR
ANOTHER PIANO BENCH
ANOTHER SCREEN
A FOLDING CARD TABLE
MAGAZINE STAND
A TABOURET
A PORCH SWING
A FOOT WARMER
A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM
A MISSION SIDEBOARD
CONTENTS: Part I
_____
Basket, Mission Waste-Paper
Bench, Piano, How to Make
Billiard Table and Davenport, Combination, How to Make
Blacking-Case Tabouret
Black Wax, How to Make
Bookrack, Homemade Mission
Bookshelf, Easily Made
Candlestick, Homemade Mission
Cellarette Pedestal
Chair, Mission, Another Style of
Chair, Mission Hall
Chair, Mission, How to Make
Chair, Morris, How to Make
Chair, Porch, How to Make
Chair, Roman, How to Make
Chairs, The Forty Styles of
Davenport and Billiard Table, Combination, How to Make
Desk, Roll-Top, How to Make
Dresser
Filling Oak
Fuming of Oak
Hall Chair, Mission
Hall or Window Seat
Lamp Stand and Shade, How to Make
Lawn Swing, Homemade
Library Table, Mission, How to Make
Magazine Stand, How to Make and Finish
Medicine Stand, Bedside
Mission Stains
Morris Chair, How to Make
Oak, Filling
Oak, Fuming of
Pedestal, Cellarette
Piano Bench, How to Make
Plant Stand, Mission
Porch Chair, How to Make
Pyrographer’s Table, How to Make
Roll-Top Desk, How to Make
Roman Chair, How to Make
Settee, How to Make
Shaving Stand, Mission, How to Make
Shelf, Easily Made Book
Sideboard, Mission
Stains, Mission
Stand, Bedside Medicine
Stand, Magazine, How to Make and Finish
Stand, Mission Plant
Stand, Mission Shaving, How to Make
Swing, Homemade Lawn
Table, Billiard, and Davenport, Combination, How to Make
Table, Mission Library, How to Make
Table, Portable, How to Make
Table, Pyrographer’s, How to Make
Tabouret, Blacking Case
Tabouret, How to Make
Waste-Paper Basket, Mission
Wax, Black, How to Make
Wax Finishing
Window Seat, Hall or
THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company.
Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it.
The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects.
The text and illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.
HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR
A mission chair suitable for the dining room can be made from any one of the furniture woods to match the other articles of furniture. The materials can be secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the tenons and mortises. The material list can be made up from the dimensions given in the detail drawing. The front legs or posts, as well as the back ones, are made from 1¾-in. square stock, the back ones having a slope of 2 in. from the seat to the top. All the slats are made from ⅞-in. material and of such widths as are shown in the detail. The three upright slats in the back are ¾-in. material. The detail drawing shows the side and back, the front being the same as the back from the seat down. All joints are mortised in the posts, as shown. The joints, however, can be made with dowels if desired. If making dowel joints they must be clamped very tight when glued and put together. The seat can be made from one piece of ⅞-in. material, fitted with notches around the posts. This is then upholstered with leather without using springs. Leather must be selected as to color to suit the kind of wood used in making the chair. The seat can also be made with an open center for a cane bottom by making a square of four pieces of ⅞-in. material about 4 in. wide. These pieces are fitted neatly to the proper size and dowelled firmly together. After the cane is put in the opening the cane is covered over and upholstered with leather in the same manner as with a solid bottom.
Suitable for Dining Room Use
Details of Chair Construction
HOW TO MAKE A LAMP STAND AND SHADE
A library light stand of pleasing design and easy construction is made as follows: Square up a piece of white oak so that it shall have a width and thickness of 1¾ in. with a length of 13 in. Square up two pieces of the same kind of material to the same width and thickness, but with a length of 12 in. each. Square up two pieces to a width and length of 3 in. each with a thickness of 1⅛ in.
If a planing mill is near, time and patience will be saved by ordering one piece 1¾ in. square and 40 in. long, two pieces 1⅛ in. thick and 3 in. square, all planed and sandpapered on all surfaces. The long piece can then be cut at home to the lengths specified above.
The 13-in. piece is for the upright and should have a ½-in. hole bored the full length through the center. If the bit is not long enough to reach entirely through, bore from each end, then use a red-hot iron to finish. This hole is for the electric wire or gas pipe if gas is used.
The two pieces for the base are alike except the groove of one is cut from the top and of the other from the under side, as shown. Shape the under sides first. This can best be done by placing the two pieces in a vise, under sides together, and boring two holes with a 1-in. bit. The center of each hole will be 2½ in. from either end and in the crack between the pieces. The pieces can then be taken out, lines gauged on each side of each, and the wood between the holes removed with turning saw and scraper steel.
The Completed Lamp
The width of the grooves must be determined by laying one piece upon the other; a trysquare should be used to square the lines across the pieces; however, gauge for depth, gauging both pieces from their top surfaces. Chisel out the grooves and round off the corners as shown in the sketch, using a ¾-in. radius.
These parts may be put together and fastened to the upright by means of two long screws from the under side, placed to either side of the ½-in. hole. This hole must be continued through the pieces forming the base.
The braces are easiest made by taking the two pieces which were planed to 1⅛ in. thick and 3 in. square and drawing a diagonal on each. Find the middle of this diagonal by drawing the central portion of the other diagonal; at this point place the spur of the bit and bore a 1-in. hole in each block.
Saw the two blocks apart, sawing along a diagonal of each. Plane the surfaces on the saw cut smooth and sandpaper the curve made by the bit. Fasten the braces in place by means of roundhead blued screws.
To make a shade such as is shown in the illustration is rather difficult. The shade is made of wood glued up and has art glass fitted in rabbets cut on the inner edges. Such shades can be purchased ready to attach. The sketch shows one method of attaching. Four small pieces of strap iron are bent to the shape shown and fastened to the four sides of the upright. Electric globes—two, three or four may be attached as shown.
The kind of wood finish for the stand will depend upon the finish on the wooden shade, if shade is purchased. Brown Flemish is obtained by first staining the wood with Flemish water stain diluted by the addition of two parts water to one part stain. When this is dry, sandpaper the whiskers
which were raised by the water and fill with a medium dark filler. Directions will be found on the filler cans. When filler has hardened, apply two coats of wax.
Construction of Shade
Details of Construction of Library Lamp Stand
The metal shade as shown in the sketch is a layout
for a copper or brass shade of a size suitable for this particular lamp. Such shades are frequently made from one piece of sheet metal and designs are pierced in them as suggested in the layout.
This piercing is done by driving the point of a nail through the metal from the under side before the parts are soldered or riveted together. If the parts are to be riveted, enough additional metal must be left on the last panel to allow for a lap. No lap is needed when joints are soldered.
A better way, and one which will permit the use of heavier metal, is to cut each side of the shade separately and fasten them together by riveting a piece of metal over each joint. The shape of this piece can be made so as to accentuate the rivet heads and thus give a pleasing effect.
For art-glass the metal panels are cut out, the glass is inserted from the under side and held in place by small clips soldered to the frame of the shade.
Pleasing effects are obtained by using one kind of metal, as brass, and reinforcing and riveting with another metal, such as copper.
Details of Home-Made Porch Seat
HOW TO MAKE A PORCH CHAIR
The illustration shows a very comfortable and attractive porch chair that can be made with few tools and easily procured material. Most any kind of wood will answer, says the American Carpenter and Builder, but if open grained wood, such as oak or chestnut, is used, the parts should be filled with a paste filler. If the natural color of the wood is not desired, the wood may first be stained, the filler being colored somewhat darker than the stain.
Procure enough lumber to make all the pieces shown in the detail drawing and finish to the dimensions shown, being careful to make the corresponding pieces exactly alike in order to preserve the perfect symmetry which is necessary in work of this kind. In boring the holes care must be taken to keep both edges of the holes sharp and clean. The holes should each be bored until the spur shows; the bit should then be withdrawn and the rest of the boring be done from the other side. The semicircular notches are made by placing the two pieces edge to edge in the vise and placing the spur of the bit in the crack. The 1-in. bit is used. As it will be difficult to finish the boring of these blocks from the second side, the parts remaining may be cut out with the knife after the pieces have been separated.
Five ½-in. dowel rods are needed. It is possible to get these in one long piece if you happen to live near a mill and then all you will have to do is to saw off the desired lengths. However, if they cannot be got easily you can make your own. Two rods each 18¼ in. long; two rods each 20¼ in. and one rod 22¼ in. give the exact lengths. It is well to cut each piece a little longer than required so that the ends which are imperfectly formed may be cut off. These rods should fit tight and may be fastened in addition with a small screw or nail from the under or back side.
Porch Chair Finished
The hand rests should be nailed to the arms with small nails or brads before the arms are bolted. The illustration of the assembled chair shows the relative position.
The bolts should be ¼ in. and of the following lengths: 4 bolts 2¼ in. long; 2 bolts 2 in. long; 2 bolts 3 in. long. Washers should be placed between adjacent pieces of wood fastened together with bolts and also at both ends of the bolts. This will require 26 washers in all. While the size of the chair may be varied, it will be necessary to keep the proportions if the parts are to fold properly.
_____
HOW TO MAKE A TABOURET
Secure from the planing mill the following pieces and have them planed and sandpapered on two surfaces: For the top, one piece ⅞ in. thick and 17 in. square. For the legs, four pieces ⅞ in. thick, 4¾ in. wide and 18½ in. long. For the lower stretchers, two pieces ⅞ in. thick, 2¾ in. wide and 15¾ in. long. For the top stretchers, two pieces ⅞ in. thick, 2¼ in. wide and 13¼ in. long. No stock need be ordered for the keys, as they can be made out of the waste pieces remaining after the legs are shaped.
Begin work on the four legs first. While both sides of each leg slope, it will be necessary to plane a joint edge on each leg from which to lay out the mortises, grooves and to test the ends. It will be necessary to have a bevel square to use in marking off the slopes and for testing them. To get the setting for the bevel square, make a full sized lay out
or drawing of the necessary lines in their proper relation to one another and adjust the bevel to those lines.
From the joint edge layout the mortises, grooves and the slopes of sides and ends of the legs. Cut the mortises and grooves first, then shape up the sides. Saw the sides accurately and quite close to the lines, finishing with the steel cabinet scraper.
Next make the bottom stretchers. In laying out