Making Wooden Fishing Lures: Carving and Painting Techniques that Really Catch Fish
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About this ebook
Rich Rousseau
Rich Rousseau was an award-winning woodcarver of fish and lures, who resided in Michigan.
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Book preview
Making Wooden Fishing Lures - Rich Rousseau
CHAPTER 1
Getting Started
Making wooden lures is easy—you don’t need a shop full of tools, a barn full of paint, or a Ph.D. in science to create a fine fishing lure. Heck, you don’t even have to mortgage the house for material purchases! This section will show you what you need to create the wooden lures in this book. Tools, hardware—it’s all here! You’ll also learn about the different types of lures and how they work.
Lure Types
Lures are categorized by the action they perform while in the water and being retrieved (when you reel them back in). There are four general types of lures: surface, floating-diving, sinking, and keel-weighted. Let’s take a look at precisely what these lures do and why.
IllustrationSurface lures
A surface lure floats and continues to float as it is retrieved. A popper has a cupped flat face and splashes water as it is retrieved in short, sharp jerks. A jitterbug has an angled flat face that produces a rhythmic plop-plop
as it is retrieved steadily. A surface prop bait has propellers that slap the water. And heck, there’s even a lure that has arms sticking out on the sides that grab water and wiggle the lure back and forth—that’s a crawler.
A surface lure attracts fish by making noise and surface disturbance that fish sense from a long distance. Surface lures are effective regardless of water depth and can be used in both shallow areas as well as the middle of the lake.
IllustrationFloating-diving lures
Floating-diving lures float while at rest and dive below the surface when retrieved. This type can have a diving lip or a cupped and angled face. The angle of the diving plane determines the depth to which the lure will descend. If the plane of the lip is nearly parallel to the lure, it will dive very deep; as the lip approaches 90° to the body, it will not dive as deeply. Keep in mind that the speed of the retrieve will affect depth as well—the faster the retrieve, the deeper the dive. Nearly all floating-diving lures wiggle back-and-forth when retrieved because the flat face is unstable when pulled through the water. The wiggle attracts fish by both creating a sound-pulse or pressure wave and making the color pattern flash. If you crank it back fast, it will wiggle fast; if you retrieve it slowly, it will wiggle slowly. Normally these lures will run from about 2 feet (610mm) deep to about 20 feet (6,096mm) deep.
IllustrationSinking lures
As the name implies, sinking lures are heavier than water and sink. This type of lure includes some wooden lures, as well as metal spinners and spoons. Just because they sink, don’t think these lures can’t wiggle, produce sound and flash, and include propellers, spinner blades and the like. These lures are effective when the fish are feeding at depth. Most sinking lures have a sink-rate of about 1 foot (305mm) per second and can, therefore, be counted down. When the lure hits the water, start counting thousand and one,
thousand and two,
etc. and before you start your retrieve, you will have a fair idea of how deep the lure is running. You can even let the lure sink to the bottom before retrieving it, which is effective for any bottom-hugging predator species, such as freshwater walleye.
Note that propellers and spinner blades generate lift. This fact can help you design certain features into the lure, as well as allow you some creative retrieve patterns—i.e., retrieve quickly (the lure rises), then slow down or pause (the lure will sink).
IllustrationKeel-weighted lures
If you wish to make a lure that will resemble a real bait fish, realize that a flat board will not float on its edge. You need to add weights inside the belly to make it float (or sink) belly down. In the case of a cupped-face floater-diver, you may wish to keel weight the very front to ensure that the cupped face will dig into the water and start working immediately. Where you place the keel weights is important because they affect the action of the lure. Basically, if the keel weight is toward the rear of the lure, the action slows down. This means that if you made a lure that wiggles way too fast, you can add a small keel weight toward the rear end, and the lure’s action will slow down. The keel weights also affect the attitude of the lure in the water, i.e., you can make a lure run head-down or head-up or neutral simply by where you place the weights. A secondary use for the keel weight is in a lure you wish to retrieve very quickly—the keel weight will not allow the lure to turn over. In other words, it will remain belly down no matter how fast you bring it back.
IllustrationDispose of waste properly when fishing—take it home with you.
Modifying lures for species
There is no such thing as a fish-specific lure. Generally, you try to use a lure of a certain size, color, and action to entice the species you are trying to catch. However, I have caught blue-gills on bass baits, and large Northern pike on tiny trout baits. I have even had large pike attack other fish I’ve already hooked. Basically, color pattern and size are what determines the species, not the lure type. By selecting the correct size, any type of lure can be effective on all species. Nobody knows for sure what a fish wants on any given day—that’s why there are so many types, sizes, and colors of lures. My advice is start with a lure you think might be right and keep changing lures until the fish tell you what they want! Otherwise, you may wind up scratching your head and imbibing a wee bit too much of your favorite