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    How to Make Dolls' Houses
    How to Make Dolls' Houses
    How to Make Dolls' Houses
    Ebook173 pages48 minutes

    How to Make Dolls' Houses

    By Audrey Johnson

    2.5/5

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    About this ebook

    This vintage book is a comprehensive and accessible manual for the building of dolls houses and furniture.

    How to Make Dolls' Houses provides detailed, step-by-step instructions for building a variety of houses, beginning with a simple model schoolhouse that could be made cheaply and by children, and going on to more complicated tasks that eventually lead to the construction of a nineteenth century draper's shop and flat.

    The contents include:
      - A School A Confectioner's Shop and Café
      - A Late Victorian Draper's Shop
      - A Westmorland Farmhouse
      - A Tall Villa
      - A Sweet Shop
      - A Hunting Lodge
      - A Miniature Doll's House
      - A Public House
      - A Cabinet in the Form of a Doll's House

    Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on dolls.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 6, 2016
    ISBN9781473350885
    How to Make Dolls' Houses

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    2.5/5

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    • 1/5
      For beginners. Not very good illustrations. Not recommended to anyone professional.

    Book preview

    How to Make Dolls' Houses - Audrey Johnson

    SECTION A:

    A School

    See photographs 1 and 2 between pages 40–41

    1. THE IDEA

    When you want to make something, it is always a great help if you can start by trying to draw it, however simply. Plans, elevations and perspective drawings are a necessary beginning for all but the most barbaric buildings. Once you have decided what type of dolls’ house you want, make a little sketch of it. As an example, I chose a school, just a one-room building, but there are many shapes to choose from—such as these:

    Fig. 1

    Having decided, not necessarily on the easiest, but I hope more wisely on the one that appeals to your imagination, the one that you think you can really make something of, different from everyone else’s, then try more elaborate drawings from different angles—like those on the next page.

    Fig. 2

    2. CONSTRUCTION

    How big is it to be? It should be small enough to fit easily into a real household, or, if it is to be made in school, on a desk, yet large enough to furnish and decorate without a magnifying glass or special tools.

    First, decide on the measurements of the base, then estimate the height (which should be of taller proportions than a real room, so that you can see into it). I would suggest that it be about 14″ long by 8″ wide, with walls 10″ high. If you have 1/4″ softwood available (grocery boxes perhaps?), you will need two pieces each 14″ × 8″ (A and B) and two pieces each 8″ × 10″ (C and D)—see Fig. 3.

    These can be glued and/or nailed together to form a box open at both ends. For the more elaborate front, you can use a material that is easier to cut windows out of, such as Balsa wood, stiff cardboard or plywood, depending on what materials and tools you have. The hardest, plywood, needs a fretsaw; Balsa wood and cardboard can be cut with a sharp knife or scissors. Lay the box, one of the open ends down, on to the piece of board chosen for the front and mark out its shape, then draw on the pointed top (Fig. 4A) and the windows and doors (Fig. 4B). Cut them out carefully and save the odd pieces for use later on.

    Fig. 3

    Fig. 4A

    Fig. 4B

    Tack and/or glue this ‘façade’ on to one end of the box.

    Fig. 5

    If you like, you can elaborate this by adding a hinged door to the back, a roof of stiff card and a flag-pole.

    Little brass hinges and catches can be bought at the ironmonger’s and screwed on, as in the drawing (Fig. 6A). The roof can be made of stiff cardboard, overlapping the walls slightly. To bend it, make a careful incision with a knife along the centre, cutting only halfway through the card; after bending along this line, strengthen the roof top with sticky tape. Then cut out a triangular piece of wood or card (A) to support the roof at the back and glue and/or tack it into place.

    A flag-pole made from a paintbrush handle or a meat skewer can be stuck with gum strip or tape or tacks to the façade before the roof is put on and a little hole cut in the roof to let it through.

    Fig. 6A

    Fig. 6B

    3. INTERIOR DECORATION

    As with a real house, you must start with the essential things first, such as the doors and windows, before you lay out the ornaments.

    Windows

    From a sheet of thin transparent plastic or celluloid, cut out the ‘glass’ of your windows, but make them all 1/2″ larger all round than the window openings. Lay these window panes on to Sellotape strips (or other sticky cellulose tape) sticky side up, as shown in diagram 7A, leaving half the width of each strip showing. Press the whole on to the inside of the wall across the window opening and secure the four corners with ‘bayonet’ tacks, unless the front of the house is too thin to take them.

    Fig. 7A

    Fig. 7B

    Door

    This may be hinged by gluing tape along one edge, or by screwing on to tiny hinges if the façade is thick enough to hold the screws (Fig. 7B).

    Papering

    It is advisable to paper the walls and ceiling of the school as this gives a much better surface than merely colouring the wood. You can use thin coloured paper—or colour your own. Cut the pieces to fit the inside walls, allowing the paper to overlap the plastic right up to the window openings. Any paste may be used, such as cold water paste sold for paperhanging or one of the new plastic pastes.

    To imitate a boarded floor, you can colour a piece of paper with brown paint, or use brown paper, and draw strong pencil lines to imitate the joins between the boards. To obtain a more realistic effect the ‘floor’ can be varnished before being glued into position. Tiny tins of varnish can be bought and a tin goes a long way, as it should be well brushed out.

    4. EXTERIOR DECORATIONS

    The outside walls may be painted with powder colours, poster colours or distempers, but much to be preferred is undercoat (ordinary household paint) in whatever colour you like. Two coats are needed. White undercoat may be coloured with ‘stainers’ (tubes of powerful, bright colours which can be mixed gradually into the basic white undercoat to achieve the colour you desire). After leaving overnight to dry, you may paint on to this all manner of decorations, not necessarily realistic. Rather than a lot of bricks drawn with a ruler, you could paint on gay floral designs, ambitious architectural features,

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