White Mountain National Forest and Great North Woods
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About this ebook
Bruce D. Heald Ph.D.
Bruce D. Heald, Ph.D., has written extensively on New Hampshire�s history. In this book, he has assembled a rare collection of images from the archives of the White Mountain National Forest.
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White Mountain National Forest and Great North Woods - Bruce D. Heald Ph.D.
publication.
INTRODUCTION
The White Mountains are sentinels to the Great North Woods and the silent jewels in the wilderness of the Granite State. The White Mountains have been well described as nature’s mammoth museum since geologists have traced their formation to the last ice floor, which traversed New England, crossed New Jersey and southern New York, and, thus, created the beautiful White Mountain National Forest.
From the earliest settlement of New Hampshire, the White Mountains have been the state’s great natural attraction. The bald summits, white during eight to nine months of the year, were the first lands sighted by homecoming ships in the Atlantic and the last, seen as clouds on the horizon, by ships outward bound. However, the early settlers of the Granite State had little appreciation of the beauties of the Appalachian Mountain Range.
From 1885 to 1910, conservationists crusaded for the preservation of the White Mountains. In 1911, after public outcry forced the passage of the Weeks Act, the White Mountain National Forest Reserve was established, allowing the federal government to purchase private land east of the Mississippi River; the Weeks Act was signed by President Taft on March 1, 1911. In 1918, the White Mountain National Forest was established by a presidential proclamation. Before the establishment of the national forest, the land had been ravaged by uncontrolled logging activities, and fires raged across the landscape.
Today, the White Mountain National Forest covers a total of 784,505 acres (1,225 square miles). It is the only national forest located in either New Hampshire or Maine. Over 100 miles (160 kilometers) of the Appalachian Trail traverses the White Mountain National Forest.
The forest consists of three discontinuous areas. The main region of the national forest included the Presidential Range and several others, including the Franconia, Twin, Bond, Sandwich, Willey, and Carter-Moriah Ranges. Within this region, there exists five designated federal wilderness areas, namely the Presidential Range–Dry River Wilderness, the Great Gulf Wilderness, the Sandwich Range Wilderness, the Caribou-Specked Mountain Wilderness, and the Pemigewasset Wilderness. This book’s journey through the forest wilderness will include the Presidential Range–Dry River, the Great Gulf, the Pemigewasset, and the Sandwich Range Wildernesses.
Central in the forest is the Presidential Range, which runs in a double curve from northeast to southwest. Inclusive in the range from the north are Mounts Madison, Adams, Jefferson, and Clay, all of which sweep up Mount Washington’s southwest side from the Presidential Range known as the noble Franconia Mountains. Like that grouping of the Presidential Range around Mount Washington, those in the Franconia Mountains look up to the high, bare summit of Mount Lafayette.
The Dry River rises in Oakes Gulf and flows southwest through a wooded mountain valley between the southern part of the Presidential Range to its west and the lower Montalban Ridge, including Mount Isolation, to its east.
Between the Franconia Mountains and those that hem in Crawford Notch on the west are the vast highlands, the Pemigewasset Wilderness, which are more than 4,000 feet high.
Southeast of these rugged peaks is the Sandwich Range, which forms a majestic mountain barrier. The pyramidal cone of Mount Chocorua rises conspicuously in the east, flanked by Passaconaway Mountain, sacred Whiteface, Paugus, and the Sandwich Dome.
Because of the natural beauty of the wilderness areas, its 1,200 miles of hiking trails, 23 campgrounds, and large number of ski areas within or near its boundaries, the White Mountain National Forest is one of the most visited natural sites in the country. Thousands upon thousands of tourists from all over the world make seasonal visits to this recreational haven each year to rejuvenate the spirit. Land management of these areas focuses on timber harvesting, livestock grazing, water, wildlife, and recreation. Unlike many federal lands, commercial use of the national forest is permitted and, in many cases, encouraged.
The White Mountain National Forest and Great North Woods is dedicated to preserving and maintaining the significant heritage resources and to sharing the values of these resources with the public.
Return with me to the cloud-haunted north woods (the land up above), the evergreen wilderness of the White Mountains and forest pines. This journey of rare images will take us through the memories of days past, for here we listen to the murmuring mountain streams that have fallen to the meadows and finally to the sea; to the music among the trees swayed by the winds, which rise and fall with the unforgettable past; and to the rustling of leaves that flutter to the ground during the autumn season. The hills are alive in New Hampshire.
Respectfully, we celebrate the 100th anniversary of the passage of the Weeks Act of 1911 being the establishment of the White Mountain National Forest Reserve.
—Bruce D. Heald, Ph.D.
Plymouth State University
WHITE MOUNTAIN’S 4,000-FOOTERS
The following make up the current list of White Mountain’s 4,000-footers, along with their respective elevations (in feet), in alphabetical order:
Adams (5,774), Bond (4,698), Bondcliff The Cliffs
(4,265), Cabot (4,170), Cannon (4,100), Carrigain (4,700), Carter Dome (4,832), East Osceola (4,156), Eisenhower (4,780), Field (4,340), Flume (4,328), Galehead (4024), Garfield (4,500), Hale, (4,054), Hancock (4,420), Isolation