Complete Road Bike Maintenance

01 THE ROAD BIKE

Whether you are an experienced racer or just starting out, knowing how to keep your bike in peak condition is essential to your enjoyment of cycling. Being able to recognise the early warning signs of mechanical trouble – and what to do about them – means less time and money wasted getting your bike fixed and more time in the saddle. Professional team bikes now cost in excess of £8,000 and, if you want the best, keeping a bike of this quality on the road is no easy task.

Whatever rider or mechanic level you are at, we hope that this clearly illustrated book with step-by-step photographs will help. It’s fully up-to-date with the latest bikes and bike technology. In chapter 2 there are also some tips on what to look out for when buying a bike and some basic tool and workshop advice, should you need to start from scratch. Fixing a bike for yourself is hugely rewarding and it’s great to know that you can be miles from home and yet be able to fix your bike in the unlikely event of a mechanical failure.

ROAD RACING BIKE

This is a road bike similar to the ones professional riders use. A bike with top-of-the-range components and lightweight wheels will cost the same as a hatchback car, although it requires far more looking after, and replacement parts and servicing can cost a fair bit. However, a perfectly balanced bike like this one will ride superbly. The component groupsets are usually Shimano Dura-Ace, SRAM Red or Campagnolo Super Record and wheels by Zipp, Mavic and Lightweight are reassuringly expensive and very popular.

Road racing geometry is very aggressive and the position is quite extreme. Professional riders spend a long time in the saddle and are used to an aerodynamic position, so this will not be suited to a rider that only manages to ride a couple of times a week. Be realistic with your aspirations and consider a bike with a more ‘Sportive’ approach. Many manufacturers now offer high-end road bikes with the same technology and componentry as the professional’s bike, albeit with a more relaxed fit and usually a more comfortable ride.

Many of these frames are ideal for long days in the saddle and riding over rough terrain and poor road surfaces. The pro teams sometimes use these bikes for Paris-Roubaix and the Tour of Flanders where they race for many hours over vicious cobbles and poor roads.

CYCLO-CROSS

Every winter, the sport of cyclo-cross means hundreds of road riders pull out their neglected ’cross bikes and head off-road. ’Cross bikes make an excellent second bike, as they can be set up as a commuter or training bike for the rest of the year.

A strong, lightweight, well-built frame is far more important than excellent components – once they’re covered in mud, function level is pretty academic. Wheels and tyres also play a considerable part in cyclo-cross success. Many manufacturers now have a ’cross bike in their range, such is the current popularity of this winter sport. Once, these bikes would have been made up from old touring bikes and junk parts – now they’re state-of-the-art carbon frames and high-end component-equipped race machines. Many mountain bike technologies have drifted into cyclo-cross including disc brakes and tubeless tyres, but cyclo-cross requires skill and control.

The Union Cyclist International (UCI – world cycling governing body) is very anxious to keep cyclo-cross pure and related to road bicycle riding as much as possible, so very often bikes that get too much like their mountain biking cousins are not allowed in sanctioned races. Cyclo-cross is a tough sport and teaches skill and technique that will help your road riding improve.

(See here for more on cyclo-cross bikes.)

ENTRY-LEVEL RACING BIKE

An entry-level bike like this one will be mid-priced and perfect for your first few seasons of road riding, and even a race or two. Many of these bikes will have Compact Drive (see here), which is a good choice for beginners. Components-wise, look out for Shimano 105 or Campagnolo Veloce groupsets.

TOURING

Touring bikes are usually made from steel – it’s not going to be the lightest bike on the market, but it will provide strength for carrying luggage and comfort for long rides. A long wheelbase and a steel fork are worth looking out for.

Some long-distance riders prefer a frame with slightly slacker seat and head tube angles, to provide a more comfortable ride. Often a custom-built bike is a good option so these characteristics are built into the bike. A custom fit is sometimes the best route for many of these riders, but there are several manufacturers now offering a more sedate road bike, perfect for all-day rides and challenge rides.

TRACK

Track bike geometry is generally tight and steep with short rake forks and a high bottom bracket (for pedal and banking clearance). Track bikes also have niche set-ups and types too – sprinters are after power so they prefer stiff, over-built frames with steel handlebars and lower front ends; endurance riders are after aerodynamics and usually use road components; and track pursuit bikes resemble road TT bikes.

Fixed-wheel competition track bikes have one drive option (fixed), no brakes and one gear ratio. Fixed has the main advantage of maintaining momentum (one of the reasons it’s favoured by time-triallists and specialist hill-climbers). After riding fixed, your pedal action will become smoother (which is why track riders always have good pedal actions) and after thousands of kilometres you’ll begin to use more of the pedal stroke to get the power down.

It’s known as souplesse from the French – literally, a ‘supple’ pedal action. Riding a fixed bike on the road can be a wonderful experience too, but only if the riding in your area is suitable and you remember that you can’t stop pedalling... so riding fixed can be hazardous if you’re not familiar with fixed gear riding (it’s best to go to the track to learn how) or the hardware you’re using isn’t up to the job. The climbing technique is also useful, as a single gear means you have to get up the hill in the only gear you have. It stops you getting lazy and using the gears, but it also teaches you how to squeeze every bit of advantage out of your technique – the momentum gained on the downstroke can easily be transferred to the upstroke, thus allowing all the power in the stroke to be used, and allowing a good pull technique to the stroke.

(See here for more on Track bikes.)

SPORTIVE

It’s not all about racing. Each year, several thousand riders take part in ‘challenge rides’. These are often set out on one of the stages of the Grand Tours. You get to ride a stage of the Tour de France, known as the Etape, and some 10,000 participants are accepted each year with at least as many more being disappointed. Fancy being able to see what the professionals have to do for a living? You will not be disappointed – it’s a very humbling experience. The bikes are often geared according to mountainous terrain and the fit is more relaxed and comfortable than a pure racing bike.

ROAD SINGLE SPEED

Fixed gears are also now popular again, not just for track racing but also for commuting and winter training. They’re a sensible option too, as they don’t wear out very easily and don’t require new chains, cassettes and chainrings. Fitting two brakes is a good idea, although the joy of fixed is controlling your speed with the drivetrain, and many countries only require a front brake by law.

WINTER BIKE

The Northern European weather is hardly the ideal environment for bicycles. Winter bikes are often an entry-level bike or perhaps a retired racing bike. But seeing as most of your long training miles will be on this bike, a specialist bike with mudguards is the best way. Use the same set-up as your race bike, and similar contact points (saddle, bars, pedals), to prevent injury and discomfort.

TIME TRIAL

Time trials are the pivotal stages of big races like the Tour de France and the Giro d’Italia. Many professional teams will spend many hours testing products, frames and set-up to get every second out of the machine.

The essentials are a stiff, stable frame, aero TT handlebars and aero wheels. If you’re taking your time trial riding seriously, you’ll want to get a specific time trial bike. The differences between a standard road bike and a TT bike are not just aerodynamic.

A TT bike will have a steeper head- and seat-angle, thus placing the rider further forwards on the bike and into a more powerful pedalling position.

The frame may be smaller to allow the rider to get lower at the front of the bike. The wheelbase is shorter, and the overall result is a bike that is very responsive and twitchy, so it takes some getting used to. A TT bike may also be a little heavier than a standard road bike, as there are loads of extras added.

BUYING A BIKE

Historically speaking, quality road bikes have always been built from the frame up. More recently, complete bikes from mainstream manufacturers have taken over as the preferred route for most riders. However, many quality bike shops offer the customer a better choice, with the possibility of customising the bike specification and building in personalised options. Complete bikes will, however, probably provide better value for the first-time buyer.

A new bike will come with full instructions for the consumer, details of any special parts (Shimano usually supplies instructions), a PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection) checklist and, lastly, a warranty card. Any bike that can’t supply this information should be avoided – you need to know you’ve done everything possible to prevent potential failures, which are very rare, but it’s far better to use a bike that is up to the job in the first place. This information also signifies that a bike has been professionally assembled and checked from new, which is why your first port of call should be a quality local dealer.

Good entry-level road bikes usually cost around £500 to £800. Because this is a very competitive price point these bikes are often very good value, featuring quality parts and a well-made frame. However, entry-level bikes are not designed and built to be pushed to the limits, so as your riding improves you’ll probably want to upgrade what you ride.

Remember that your main priorities are the frame and forks, then the wheels, then the contact points (saddle, handlebars and pedals), and lastly the components. Components are last on the list because they’ll wear out in time and, should you want to upgrade them, you can do it when they wear out. The frame, forks and wheels are always the most expensive parts of a bike, so look for the manufacturers that put the most effort into these areas. Look for the details and workmanship to see that the manufacturer hasn’t cut any corners.

TIPS FOR BUYING A BIKE

As with most things in life, there will be good and bad points about your new bike, but here are a few tips you should always consider before buying a new bike.

1 Take an experienced cycling friend with you to give you advice. Research the brands you like the look of. Phone the manufacturers for catalogues and take a balanced view, and use the internet – www.road.cc and www.roadbikereview.com both have user review sections, which can provide interesting insights.

2 Buy a range of up-to-date magazines to consider your options. Find back issues of group tests of bikes in your price range, or even e-mail the magazine to ask their opinion.

3 Find out each manufacturer’s best sellers.

4 Ask these questions at each shop you visit:

• What size do I need and, if you haven’t got one in that size, can you order it in? (See here for more information on sizing.)

• Can I have a test ride? (See right for more information on test rides.)

• Do you provide a free first service?

• Within reason, can I swap parts (saddle, stem, handlebars and so on) to get the exact fit I want? The answer to all of these questions should be ‘yes’.

5 Consider that you’ll need after-sales support, so you’ll need to build loyalty with the shop. Don’t just buy cheaper elsewhere and then expect a local dealer to fix or deal with the warranty on your new bike for free. It’s always worth thinking about buying some extras (helmet, clothing, tools and so on) when you’re at the shop buying your bike. This is probably the most you’ll spend in the shop at one time, so they may well offer you a few incentives, even if it’s just a free bottle and an inner tube.

6 Don’t be lured by discounted bikes, special offers or ex-demonstration bikes unless you’re absolutely sure it’s the bike for you and it’s the right size.

7 If the shop doesn’t have your size, wait until they can get one. It’s better to leave it a little longer and have the right bike.

8 Always ask local cyclists for recommendations and ask them about the local shops – for example, which one is good for advice and which one specialises in particular brands? It’s always better to go to a dealer who has a good reputation. Ask lots of questions in the shop and make sure they have a good mechanic and a well-equipped (preferably tidy) workshop. As discussed, they should also offer you a free first service and warranty back-up.

THE TEST RIDE

You may have to leave your credit card (or your car keys, other half, friend, dog, whatever) as security in the shop before they’ll let you out on a test ride. When you leave the shop, relax and take the bike for a gentle spin. Stop somewhere quiet and have a good look over what you’re about to buy. Try adjusting the saddle height so that you feel comfy. If you aren’t happy, don’t feel pressurised to buy – try something else instead.

SELF-BUILD BIKES

In time you may want to have a go at building your own bike. Frame-only deals can offer excellent value, but be aware that using second-hand or used parts can create problems as you build. Things like front mechs and seat posts often vary in size and, unless you have all the right tools, you can easily make an expensive mistake.

SECOND-HAND BIKES

Like self-build, buying a second-hand bike can be a bit of a hornet’s nest. You may think you have a bargain, but if the bike has had any serious crash damage it could be a very bad move. Ideally, you should only buy a bike that has had little use.

If the drivetrain and brakes show signs of wear, the chances are that these parts are about to need replacing. If this is the case, you’ll need to factor it into the bidding process, or reconsider the purchase if it will cost you more than the bike is worth to replace the worn-out parts. This is where taking an experienced riding friend is invaluable, as they’ll be able to spot the telltale signs of misuse immediately. As with all second-hand purchases, be careful not to give out any personal details to people, unless you know who they are.

THE FRAME

GEOMETRY AND FRAME ANGLES

Whole books have been written on the subject of bicycle frame geometry – bike magazine articles, tests and features will provide much opinion on the subject too. What’s here is an overview of road bike geometry, rather than an in-depth review. Good shops will have people with experience and sensible opinions, so ask around and be prepared with questions, so that you get the bike that suits you the best.

FRAME TYPES

The ‘diamond pattern’ frame with a front and rear triangle is still the most versatile approach for a bicycle frame.

Generally speaking, standard geometry (with a flat top tube parallel to the ground) allows for a more stable frame, and most experienced riders (and professionals) will prefer the predictable handling and comfort a standard geometry frame will offer. Compact geometry refers to bikes with a sloping top tube that allows for a smaller rear triangle and, therefore, a slightly lighter frame. The result is a stiffer rear triangle but also, usually, a less forgiving ride.

FRAME ANGLES

Essentially you can have a seat or head angle that varies from 75–68 degrees (this is the angle measured behind the tube’s centre line and the floor), so 75 degrees is steep and 68 degrees is slack.

HEAD TUBE ANGLE

This will play a major part in how the bike handles. A steep head angle will make the steering lighter and twitchy, yet at high speeds still quite stable for sprinting. A slacker head angle will provide stability at all speeds but heavier steering and a tendency to wallow a bit at sprinting speeds.

SEAT TUBE ANGLE

Seat angle has a major influence on your weight distribution and position over the pedals. It’s a grey area, as saddle choice and seat post layback can also play a part in the overall picture. Time trial bikes usually have a steep seat angle to allow the rider to place themselves further forward, which provides a more powerful pedalling position and allows them to reach lower-set bars and triathlon-style armrests without a big stretch. A slacker angle is generally for a more relaxed rider and sometimes preferred by cyclo-cross riders, as they can force their weight further over the rear wheel to provide better traction in slippery conditions. However, don’t compromise your fit for an over-slack or steep seat angle – fitting the bike accurately to your body is far more valuable.

Generally speaking (and depending on frame size), road bike manufacturers will go for a neutral 72–74