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    The Rough Guide to Sweden: Travel Guide eBook
    The Rough Guide to Sweden: Travel Guide eBook
    The Rough Guide to Sweden: Travel Guide eBook
    Ebook856 pages10 hours

    The Rough Guide to Sweden: Travel Guide eBook

    By Rough Guides

    3.5/5

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    About this ebook

    This Sweden guidebook is perfect for independent travellers planning a longer trip. It features all of the must-see sights and a wide range of off-the-beaten-track places. It also provides detailed practical information on preparing for a trip and what to do on the ground. 


    This Sweden guidebook covers: Stockholm, Gothenburg, around Gothenburg, the southwest, the Southeast, the Bothnian Coast, Central Sweden, Swedish Lapland.

    Inside this Sweden travel book, you’ll find: 

    • A wide range of sights – Rough Guides experts have hand-picked places for travellers with different needs and desires: off-the-beaten-track adventures, family activities or chilled-out breaks
    • Itinerary examples – created for different time frames or types of trip
    • Practical information – how to get to Sweden, all about public transport, food and drink, shopping, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, tips for travellers with disabilities and more
    • Author picks and things not to miss in Sweden – river-rafting (Värmland), swimming in a lake, midnight sun, Gotland beaches, Birka, smorgasbord, Sami culture (Lapland), Gothenburg's Konstmuseum, Icehotel, Gammelstad (Luleå), Visby, Gamla Stan (Stockholm), Stockholm Archipelago, Inlandsbanan, Vasa Warship (Stockholm), Crossing the Arctic Circle, Herring, Bohuslan Coast, Kalmar Slott, Jokkmokk winter market, Europe's last wilderness, Orsa Rovdjurspark, a sauna and a splash
    • Insider recommendations – tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money, and find the best local spots
    • When to go to Sweden – high season, low season, climate information and festivals 
    • Where to go – a clear introduction to Sweden with key places and a handy overview 
    • Extensive coverage of regions, places and experiences – regional highlights, sights and places for different types of travellers, with experiences matching different needs
    • Places to eat, drink and stay – hand-picked restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels
    • Practical info at each site – hours of operation, websites, transit tips, charges
    • Colour-coded mapping – with keys and legends listing sites categorised as highlights, eating, accommodation, shopping, drinking and nightlife
    • Background information for connoisseurs – history, culture, art, architecture, film, books, religion, diversity
    • Essential Swedish dictionary and glossary of local terms 
    • Fully updated post-COVID-19

     The guide provides a comprehensive and rich selection of places to see and things to do in Sweden, as well as great planning tools. It’s the perfect companion, both ahead of your trip and on the ground.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateOct 1, 2024
    ISBN9781835290941
    The Rough Guide to Sweden: Travel Guide eBook
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      Book preview

      The Rough Guide to Sweden - Rough Guides

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      Contents

      INTRODUCTION

      Where to go

      When to go

      Author picks

      Things not to miss

      Itineraries

      Sustainable travel

      BASICS

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Travel essentials

      THE GUIDE

      1Stockholm

      2Day-trips from Stockholm

      3Gothenburg

      4Around Gothenburg

      5The southwest

      6The southeast

      7The Bothnian coast

      8Central Sweden

      9Swedish Lapland

      CONTEXTS

      History

      Swedish architecture

      Geography

      Books

      Swedish language

      Glossary

      SMALL PRINT

      Introduction to

      Sweden

      The mere mention of Sweden conjures up resonant images: snow-capped peaks, reindeer wandering in deep green forests and the 24-hour daylight of the midnight sun. But beyond the household names of ABBA, IKEA and Volvo, Sweden remains relatively unknown. The largest of the Scandinavian countries, with an area twice that of Britain (and roughly that of California), but a population of just under ten and a half million, Sweden has space for everyone: the countryside boasts pine, spruce and birch forest as far as the eye can see and crystal-clear lakes perfect for a summer afternoon dip – not to mention possibly the purest air you’ll ever breathe. The country’s south and west coasts, meanwhile, feature some of the most exquisite beaches in Europe – without the crowds.

      Generally speaking, Sweden is a carefree place where life is lived at a relaxed pace. Indeed, the Swedes’ liberal and open attitude to virtually every aspect of life is certainly one of their most enviable qualities; people are generally left to do their own thing. In Sweden, rights go hand in hand with duties, and there’s a strong sense of civic obligation – you’re very unlikely to see anyone dropping litter, for example – which in turn makes for a well-rounded and generally stable society. Many of the cornerstones of the Swedish welfare state, such as tremendously generous benefits and healthcare perks, were laid down during forty years of unbroken rule by the Social Democrats, and are still held dear by Swedes today.

      Yet, over the years, foreigners have somehow confused the open Swedish attitude to society, including nudity and sexuality, with sex. Contrary to popular belief, Sweden isn’t populated solely with people waiting for any opportunity to tear off their clothes and make passionate love under the midnight sun. It is, though, a country founded on honesty and straight talking – two of Sweden’s most refreshing qualities.

      Where to go

      Sweden is principally a land of forests and lakes. Its towns and cities are small by European standards and are mostly located in the southern third of the country, where the majority of Swedes live. Of its cities, serenely beautiful Stockholm reigns supreme. Sitting elegantly on fourteen different islands, where the waters of Lake Mälaren meet the Baltic Sea, the city boasts some fantastic architecture, fine museums and by far the best culture and nightlife in the country. The 24,000 islands which comprise the Stockholm archipelago are a perfect antidote to the urban bustle, offering endless opportunities to explore unspoilt island villages and to go swimming. On the west coast, Gothenburg, the country’s second biggest city, is also one of Sweden’s most appealing destinations. Gothenburgers have a reputation for being among the friendliest people in Sweden, and the city’s network of canals and spacious avenues is reminiscent of Amsterdam, whose architects designed it.

      Fact file

      Sweden is the third largest country in western Europe – behind only France and Spain – stretching 1600km from north to south. If the country were pivoted around on its southernmost point, the top of the country would reach as far south as Naples in Italy.

      There is no translation for the Swedish word lagom, one of the most commonly used terms in the language. Roughly speaking, it means just the right amount, not too much but not too little, a concept that is the very essence of Swedishness.

      More than half of Sweden’s land surface is covered with forest – mostly coniferous – punctuated by an astonishing 95,000 lakes.

      Sweden is home to the world’s first and largest hotel made entirely of ice and snow. Icehotel is built in December using blocks of ice cut from the local Torne River. The hotel melts back into the river in May.

      In northern Sweden frozen lakes and rivers are used by drivers looking for a shortcut to their destination. The national road agency marks out "ice roads" and decides when the ice is thick enough to support a vehicle.

      iStock

      GOTHENBURG’S COLOURFUL ROOFS

      The south is the most cosmopolitan part of the country, owing to the proximity of Denmark and the rest of the European continent. Here you’ll find the glorious ancient university seat of Lund and, nearby, Sweden’s third biggest city, Malmö, which heaves with youthful nightlife around its medieval core.

      Inland, southern Sweden boasts some handsome lakes, the two largest of which, Vänern and Vättern, provide splendid backdrops to some beautiful towns, not least the evocative former royal seat and the monastic centre of Vadstena, and Karlstad, the sunshine capital of Värmland, a rugged province ideal for river-rafting trips. To the east of the mainland lies Gotland, justifiably raved about as a haven for summer revelry, especially within the medieval walls of its unspoilt Hanseatic city, Visby.

      Central and northern Sweden represent the most quintessentially Swedish-looking part of the country. In the centre lies Dalarna, an area of rolling hills and villages that’s home to Lake Siljan, one of Sweden’s most beautiful lakes. North of here lies some of the country’s most enchanting scenery, home to bears, wolves and reindeer. To the east, the shoreline of the Bothnian coast contains the north’s biggest cities: Sundsvall, Umeå and Luleå are all enjoyable, lively places in which to break your journey north.

      Midsummer mayhem

      An atmosphere akin to Mediterranean joie de vivre takes over Sweden during the midsummer solstice (the weekend closest to June 24), when maypoles are erected as giant fertility symbols in gardens and parks across the country. Midsummer is not a time for staying in towns – everyone heads to the countryside and coasts, with Dalarna, the island of Öland and the shores of the Bohuslän coast being just a few of the most popular spots. Aided in no small part by copious quantities of alcohol, the population’s national characteristics of reserve and restraint dissolve over midsummer weekend. Long trestle tables draped in white cloths and sagging under the weight of multiple varieties of herring, potatoes with dill and gallons of akvavit are set up outside, and parties go on through the light night with dancing to the strains of accordions and fiddles.

      Northern lights

      Also known by their Latin name, aurora borealis, the northern lights are visible all across northern Sweden during the dark months of winter. These spectacular displays of green-blue shimmering arcs and waves of light are caused by solar wind, or streams of particles charged by the sun, hitting the atmosphere. The colours are the characteristic hues of different elements when they hit the plasma shield that protects the Earth: blue is nitrogen and yellow-green is oxygen. Although the mechanisms which produce the aurora are not completely understood, the displays are generally more impressive the closer you get to the poles – low temperatures are also rumoured to produce some of the most dramatic performances. Gällivare and Kiruna, both well inside the Arctic Circle, are arguably the best places in Sweden to catch a glimpse of the aurora, particularly during the coldest winter months from December to February. Although displays can range from just a few minutes to several hours, the night sky must be clear of cloud to see the northern lights from Earth.

      The far north, inside the Arctic Circle, is the home of the Sámi – Sweden’s indigenous people. Known as Swedish Lapland, it is also the land of reindeer, elk and bears, of swiftly flowing rivers and coniferous forest, all traversed by endless hiking routes. Sweden’s northernmost town, Kiruna, makes an excellent base for exploring the region’s national parks and the world-famous Icehotel in nearby Jukkasjärvi. Swedish Lapland is also the place to come to experience the midnight sun: in high summer the sun never sets, whilst in midwinter the opposite is true, though you may be lucky enough to see the sky lit up by the multicoloured patterns of the northern lights, or aurora borealis.

      Shutterstock

      FISKEBÄCKSKIL

      The Winter swede and the Summer swede

      Unsurprisingly, the long, dark winters have a tangible effect on the Swedish psyche. During the winter months, you’ll find that people are generally quieter and more withdrawn, and protect themselves from the rigours of the cold and dark by deliberately socializing indoors, often choosing to light candles throughout the home to create a sense of cosiness. You’ll even see candles burning in public buildings and shops to brighten up the gloomiest time of year.  It’s during winter that Seasonal Affective Disorder, or SAD, causes widespread depression, affecting roughly one in five people – not dissimilar from the statistics in the UK. SAD is caused by a lack of daylight which leads to an increase in the production of the sleep-related hormone, melatonin, secreted from a gland in the brain. Although you’re unlikely to suffer during a short visit, naturally people do all they can to alleviate the effects of winter; for example, during the period of 24-hour darkness in northern Sweden, the Winter Swede creates a semblance of day and night by switching on bright lights during what would be daytime, and using low-lighting during the evening hours. Once spring arrives, there’s a notable bounce in people’s step, and the Summer Swede prepares to emerge from months of enforced hibernation – you’ll see people sitting in lines on park benches in the sunshine, faces tilted to the sky, making the most of the return of the sun. Festivals and revelries are thick on the ground in spring and summer, and outdoor life is lived to the full, including picnics under the midnight sun, beach parties lasting late into the night and an exodus to the countryside as people take up residence in their forest or lakeside log cabins to enjoy the brief yet intense summer months.

      < Back to Intro

      When to go

      In general, May to September is the best time to visit Sweden – north or south. Summer weather in Sweden is similar to that in southern Britain, though there are more hours of sunshine and less rain. By the end of August, the leaves in northern Sweden start to change colour and night frosts are not uncommon; the first snow falls in September. In Stockholm, snow can fall in October but doesn’t generally settle; by November, though, the ground is usually covered in a blanket of snow, which will last until the following March or even April, when there can still be snow showers. Winters in the south of Sweden are often mild while in the north you’re likely to encounter snow until well into May and temperatures can fall to –30C. For more information and a temperature chart.

      < Back to Intro

      Author picks

      Our authors have visited every corner of Sweden – from the sandy beaches of Skåne to the mountains of Swedish Lapland – to bring you some unique travel experiences. These are some of their own, personal favourites.

      Classic journeys Walking part of the Kungsleden trail is a great way to see the wilds of Swedish Lapland, while for the less adventurous the views unfolding from the train window on the Inlandsbanan are equally compelling.

      Best beaches Sjaustrehammaren beach on the east coast of Gotland is the perfect place for a tan, though the turquoise waters of Sandhammaren beach in Skåne are equally sublime.

      Back to nature Be it hiking, river-rafting or wild lake swimming, the unspoilt countryside of the province of Värmland is readily accessible and yours to call your own.

      Winter wonderland It’s hard to beat the sheer range of activities on offer at Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi for a chance to explore the snowy north of Sweden.

      Island idylls Both the Stockholm and Gothenburg archipelagos are perfect for spending long, lazy summer days messing about in boats and swimming.

      Amazing views Mountain scenery to blow your mind from the top of Åreskutan at Åre and Nuolja in Abisko or coastal vistas from the top of Högbonden.

      Favourite place For its combination of handsome towns and villages, gloriously sandy beaches and rolling countryside studded with medieval churches, Gotland is Sweden at its most alluring.

      Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the symbol.

      Conny Fridh/Imagebank.sweden.se

      STEAMER IN THE STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO

      Shutterstock

      ABISKO CANYON LANDSCAPE

      < Back to Intro

      25

      things not to miss

      It’s not possible to see everything Sweden has to offer in one trip, and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a handpicked taste of the country’s highlights, from snowmobiling to sampling a smörgåsbord; you can browse through to find the very best things to see and experience. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight to the Guide, where you can find out more.

      Shutterstock

      1 DOG SLEDDING

      Dog sledding is a magical way to see northern Sweden in winter.

      iStock

      2 River-rafting, Värmland

      Build your own raft and glide down the graceful Klarälven River, taking in some of Sweden’s scenery.

      iStock

      3 Lund domkyrkan

      This twelfth-century cathedral is the finest Romanesque building in northern Europe.

      iStock

      4 Wild swimming

      Amongst Sweden’s 100,000 lakes, you’re bound to find one you can call your own.

      Tomas Utsi/Imagebank.sweden.se

      5 Midnight sun

      From late May to mid-July the sun never sets in northern Sweden.

      iStock

      6 Gotland beaches

      Stretches of white sandy beaches and crystalline, warm waters are perfect places to relax and play in the summer sun.

      Shutterstock

      7 Birka

      Get to grips with Sweden’s stirring Viking past on this Stockholm island.

      Per Erik Berglund/Imagebank.sweden.se

      8 Smörgåsbord

      Feast yourself silly: the smörgåsbord is a perfect way to sample Sweden’s excellent cuisine.

      Shutterstock

      9 Sámi culture, Lapland

      Sights such as Jokkmokk market and Fatmomakke village in Lapland are monuments to the thriving culture of Sweden’s indigenous population.

      Shutterstock

      10 Gothenburg’s Konstmuseum

      Poseidon stands guard outside Gothenburg’s art museum – home to some of Sweden’s finest paintings from the turn of the last century.

      Shutterstock

      11 Icehotel

      One of the most unusual structures in Europe, the Icehotel is a masterpiece of snow and ice sculpture. Bring your thermals!

      iStock

      12 Gammelstad, Luleå

      Proudly listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Gammelstad is Sweden’s largest church town.

      iStock

      13 Visby

      Explore the cobbled lanes and medieval church ruins of this Hanseatic walled city.

      iStock

      14 Gamla Stan, Stockholm

      Enjoy a traditional Swedish fika (coffee and cake) in one of the open-air cafés in Stockholm’s atmospheric Old Town.

      iStock

      15 Stockholm archipelago

      No visit to Stockholm is complete without a trip to one of the 24,000 islands that make up the archipelago.

      Shutterstock

      16 Inlandsbanan

      A serene trip on the Inlandsbanan through northern Sweden is one of Europe’s great train journeys.

      Ola Ericson/Imagebank.sweden.se

      17 Vasa Warship, Stockholm

      After lying in mud for 333 years at the bottom of Stockholm harbour, the mighty Vasa has been restored to her former glory.

      Shutterstock

      18 Crossing the Arctic Circle

      Crossing the magical Arctic Circle, 66° 33’ north, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

      Miriam Preis/Imagebank.sweden.se

      19 Herring

      The quintessential Swedish dish, best enjoyed with a cold beer or a punchy shot of akvavit.

      Andreas Nordström/Imagebank.sweden.se

      20 Bohuslän coast

      Sweden’s most enchanting stretch of coastline with smooth rocky outcrops perfect for sunbathing.

      Shutterstock

      21 Kalmar Slott

      Sign up for a tour around one of Sweden’s finest castles, and marvel at its medieval magnificence.

      Shutterstock

      22 Jokkmokk winter market

      The Jokkmokk winter market sells everything from bearskins to candlesticks.

      Shutterstock

      23 Europe’s last wilderness

      Explore the wild, rugged and remote far north on the Kungsleden hiking trail to catch glimpses of isolated natural beauty.

      iStock

      24 Sandhammaren beach

      Part of the Hagestad Nature Reserve, the miles of fine white sands and turquoise waters of Sandhammaren aren’t what comes to mind for most people when they think of Sweden.

      Helena Wahlman/Imagebank.sweden.se

      25 A sauna and a splash

      The perfect end to a long day, a Swedish sauna traditionally finishes with a roll in the snow or a plunge into cold water. The instant feeling of euphoria that follows is unparalleled.

      < Back to Intro

      Itineraries

      Sweden is a vast country, and as such, it’s impossible to cover all of it in a single trip. Our Grand Tour concentrates on Sweden’s main sights, while our other suggested routes focus on two fascinating regions, one in the south, one in the north. Each itinerary will take a packed two weeks to cover; if you only have a week at your disposal, you could cover part of one to get a flavour of the country, or one of the regions that make Sweden special.

      GRAND TOUR OF SWEDEN

      Two weeks in Sweden and no idea where to start? Our Grand Tour puts you on the right track.

      Stockholm The vibrant heart of Sweden is one of Europe’s saner capitals, with everything from style-conscious bars and restaurants to world-class museums and galleries.

      Lund Awash with students and bikes, likeable Lund boasts the country’s greatest cathedral set amid its compact, cobbled centre.

      Malmö Sweden’s gateway to Europe, Malmö is linked by frequent trains to the Danish capital, Copenhagen, and is accordingly cosmopolitan.

      Gothenburg Sweden’s second city and Scandinavia’s biggest port, handsome Gothenburg is reminiscent of Amsterdam with its canals and gabled houses.

      Dalarna The Swedes think of Dalarna as the most Swedish part of Sweden – probably due to all the rolling hills, flower meadows and log cabins.

      Östersund Charming lakeside town in the centre of the country which makes a perfect rest stop on the long journey north.

      Jokkmokk Tucked just inside the Arctic Circle, Jokkmokk has a strong Sámi identity and is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s indigenous population.

      Luleå Probably the most attractive of Sweden’s northern cities, Luleå provides ready access to the fascinating UNESCO-listed church town at Gammelstad.

      Sundsvall Grandiose stone architecture immediately sets Sundsvall apart from its neighbours. The biggest city in the north, it has plenty of good restaurants and bars to sample too.

      THE BEST OF THE NORTH

      Östersund Go hunting for Sweden’s answer to the Loch Ness monster on Lake Storsjön, which provides a magnificent backdrop to this laid-back town.

      Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

      Vildmarksvägen For a taste of wild Sweden, take this switchback route through some of central Sweden’s most remote and hauntingly beautiful landscapes.

      Vilhelmina A handy stop on the way north; book into one of the sturdy wooden cottages of the church town for a traditionally Swedish night’s accommodation.

      Arvidsjaur Take a trip on an old-timey steam train or visit the traditional Sámi dwellings of the Lappstaden in the town centre.

      Jokkmokk In addition to a fascinating Sámi museum, there’s also a delightful alpine flower garden.

      Abisko The starting point for the 500km Kungsleden hiking trail, as well as the best place in Sweden to see the northern lights.

      Kiruna Gateway to the famous Icehotel in nearby Jukkasjärvi; get here before the whole town sinks into the ground – it’s currently being slowly relocated, building by building!

      Luleå Visit the UNESCO-listed church town at nearby Gammelstad or ride the boat out into the stunning archipelago.

      High Coast The most beautiful stretch of the northern Swedish coast lies north of Härnösand and is best seen from the ferries which serve the offshore islands.

      SOUTHERN SWEDEN

      Malmö The perfect gateway to southern Sweden, Malmö enjoys some of the country’s warmest weather and features a string of city beaches ideal for kicking back and topping up your tan.

      Lund Enjoy the atmosphere in southern Sweden’s prettiest city, renowned for its lively bars and restaurants which cater to the huge student population.

      Kalmar One of southern Sweden’s most under­rated destinations, Kalmar is home to the fasc­ina­ting Kronan exhibition.

      Gotland The Swedish destination, Gotland’s charms are legendary: cobbled medieval streets and alleyways, superb sandy beaches and a party atmosphere that lasts all summer long. Skål!

      Karlstad Bustling and playful city strung along the shores of Sweden’s biggest lake – sign up for a tour of the city by boat or enjoy the beaches.

      Vadstena With its moated castle and stunning abbey, historically significant Vadstena is Sweden at its most grand and imposing.

      Gothenburg The Gothenburgers are said to be the friendliest people in the whole of Sweden – pull up a chair in one of the city’s many great cafés and strike up a conversation.

      Varberg People have been coming to Varberg to take the waters for generations – join them and leave your clothes behind!

      < Back to Intro

      Sustainable travel

      Sweden is setting a fantastic example when it comes to sustainability, making it relatively easy to ensure your travels are as good for the planet as they are for you.

      When it comes to sustainability, Sweden has a lot to offer; in fact, the country was ranked as the world’s most sustainable travel destination in Euromonitor International’s 2023 Sustainable Travel Index. Easy access to nature and organic produce are part of a traditionally Swedish lifestyle, and the country is famous for its natural wonders and progressive politics.

      Getting there

      Start your trip on the right foot and travel to Sweden in the most eco-friendly way that you can. If you’re coming from Europe, an easy and comfortable way to get to Sweden is by train. If you’re travelling from the UK, for example, you can hop on the Eurostar from London, change in Brussels and take a sleeper train. For long-distance travellers, though, flying may be the only option. If that’s you, check out Travel & Climate ( travelandclimate.org), a useful Swedish platform that allows travellers to calculate the carbon footprint of their trip – thereby helping you to choose the most sustainable route to Sweden.

      Green accommodation

      If you’re looking for unique places to stay that get you up close and personal with nature, Sweden is the place for you; rural areas scattered with sustainable eco-lodges and glamping tents ( visitsweden.com). Even Swedish hotel chains are brilliant at communicating their sustainability efforts: Strawberry, Swedish Scandic Hotels and Elite Hotels all have green initiatives and are certified by some of the many Swedish sustainability labels. You’ll spot many of these hotels recommended throughout this guide.It’s also great to know that generally speaking, Sweden has very good working conditions – so you can rest assured that wherever you choose to stay, the staff working have positive working environments.

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      SWEDEN IS SERIOUS ABOUT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

      Public transport

      Most Swedish cities are extremely walkable (and picturesque), making travelling on your own two feet the best option most of the time. When this isn’t possible, Sweden is also serious about public transport. For example, the Stockholm underground system (known as the T-Bana) is accessible, efficient, clean and safe. There’s also the added bonus of being an attraction in its own right – it’s home to the world’s longest gallery of public art, with some stations featuring mesmerizing murals and installations ( visitstockholm.com/see-do/attractions/art-in-the-subway).

      Sustainable Swedish food

      When it comes to sustainable food, Sweden is world leading. The Michelin Guide’s Green Star currently includes seven Swedish restaurants ( guide.michelin.com/en/se/restaurants/sustainable_gastronomy), and the 360°Eat Guide, which ranks restaurants by social and environmental sustainability, recognized 48 restaurants in Sweden in 2023 ( 360eatguide.com/restaurant-guides/sweden-europe). Wherever you eat, though, there are still sustainable choices to be made: at the popular lunchtime buffets, choose more vegetables and don’t take more food than you can eat (as tempting as it can be!), and when shopping in a Swedish supermarket, look out for the KRAV label which means that the food has been produced in an environmentally friendly and ethical way. Additionally, there’s no need to buy any single-use plastic water bottles here – Sweden’s tap water is consistently ranked among some of the best in the world, and filling your reusable bottle straight from the tap is the norm.

      Make your visit count

      One of the best ways to ensure a sustainable visit to Sweden is to maximize your positive impact by patronizing local businesses, peoples and cultures. A great way to do this is by investing in the sustainability initiatives that already exist: for example, Nature’s Best ( naturesbestsweden.com) is Europe’s first eco-tourism label that verifies ethical, nature-based tours including dog sledding in the Arctic Circle, timber-rafting in Värmland, and whale watching in Skåne. In West Sweden, check out ‘Hållbarhetsklivet’ ( hallbarhetsklivet.se), a joint initiative for a sustainable tourism industry that gathers around 60 companies in the region. Or you could choose to visit Sweden’s largest island, Gotland ( visitsweden.com), where an EU project called ‘Sustainable Plejs’ ( gotland.com/sustainableplejs) gathers companies from all over the island – including hotels and restaurants – to make Gotland a living and sustainable place year-round.

      Leave no trace

      Everyone is free to roam wherever they please thanks to the Swedish Right of Public Access (‘Allemansrätten’). This unique right means that everyone can enjoy the country’s immense natural beauty by camping in forests or on mountains, swimming in lakes and rivers, and foraging as many berries and mushrooms as you can stomach. It exists alongside the expectation that you will respect the land; don’t disturb animals, destroy plants, and never, ever leave any litter. This last one will be particularly easy, as you’ll see recycling bins wherever you go – with separate containers for plastic, paper, glass, metal and food waste.

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      SWEDEN IS LITTERED WITH CAMPSITES

      < Back to Intro

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      CELEBRATING SWEDISH NATIONAL DAY

      Basics

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Travel essentials

      Getting there

      The main gateways to Sweden are Stockholm and Gothenburg, as well as Copenhagen in neighbouring Denmark, just a twenty-minute train ride from Malmö.

      Air fares are generally cheaper when booked as far in advance as possible. Midweek travel tends to be less expensive than weekend departures.

      Flights from North America

      The main two airlines operating between North America and Sweden are SAS ( flysas.com) and Norwegian ( norwegian.com). At certain times of year there are also flights with Delta, American Airlines and United, though this situation changes from year to year. Timetables also change frequently, though generally there are direct flights to Stockholm from New York, Chicago and San Francisco. Less expensive tickets can sometimes be found on European airlines routing via their home hub, for example British Airways ( ba.com) via London or Icelandair ( icelandair.net) via Keflavík, the latter very often being a source of reasonable fares to Sweden.

      Direct flights to Sweden from Canada have been introduced in the last few years, but although on the increase, they remain relatively few and limited to the summer months. The most common route is from Toronto Pearson International Airport to Stockholm Arlanda Airport. Outside of direct flights, the best way of reaching Sweden is generally from Toronto or Vancouver to a European hub, then flying from there to Stockholm.

      Flights from the UK and Ireland

      Flights for Stockholm, Gothenburg and Copenhagen leave from several UK airports; in winter there are also direct flights from London Heathrow to Kiruna. Flying to Sweden with Ryanair ( ryanair.com) is usually the cheapest way of getting there. The other main airline serving Sweden is SAS ( flysas.co.uk). The Scandinavian low-cost operator, Norwegian ( norwegian.com), is also an option. For southern Sweden, try easyJet ( easyJet.com) who fly into Copenhagen. From Ireland, there are services from Dublin.

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      There are no direct flights to Sweden from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa, and by far the cheapest option is to find a discounted air fare to London then arrange a flight to Sweden from there. Alternatively, some airlines such as Air China and Thai Airways offer competitive fares to Stockholm via their hubs in Beijing and Bangkok respectively.

      By train

      Getting to Sweden by train can be a gorgeously picturesque and interesting alternative to flying. It may well be worth buying a rail pass; a global InterRail pass or Eurail pass are great options. From London, trains to Sweden go via Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg and Copenhagen. A typical journey will involve changing trains four or five times and take around 24 hours. For a dependable summary of the options of getting to Sweden by train, check out seat61.com/sweden.

      Rail Contacts

      Swedish Railways (SJ) sj.se

      Voyages-sncf.com uk.voyages-scf.com

      Package holidays

      Don’t be put off by the idea of an inclusive package, as it can sometimes be the cheapest way of doing things, and a much easier way of reaching remote areas of northern Sweden in winter. City breaks are invariably less expensive than if you arrange the same trip independently. There are also a number of operators offering special-interest holidays to Sweden.

      A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

      At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage all our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

      Specialist operators

      Bentours International Australia bentours.com.au. The leading Australian specialist to Sweden offering air, ferry and rail tickets and a host of (often upmarket) escorted and independent tours throughout Scandinavia.

      Contiki Tours contiki.com. Budget tours of Scandinavia for 18- to 35-year-olds.

      < Back to Basics

      Getting around

      The public transport system in Sweden is one of Europe’s most efficient. There’s a comprehensive train network in the south of the country; in the north travelling by train isn’t quite so easy, as many loss-making branch lines have been closed. However, it’s still possible to reach the main towns in the north by train, and where train services no longer exist, buses generally cover the same routes.

      Look out for city and regional discount cards, which often give free use of local transport, free museum entry and other discounts.

      By train

      Other than flying, train travel is the quickest and easiest way of covering Sweden’s vast expanses. The service is generally excellent and prices are not that high. At holiday times and between mid-June and mid-August, trains are often heavily booked; it’s worth making reservations (often compulsory) as far in advance as you can. The national train operator is Swedish Railways (SJ; sj.se) which runs an extensive network across the whole of Sweden. For train and connecting bus information visit resrobot.se. Many station names in Sweden carry the letter C after the name of the city, for example: Stockholm C; this is a railspeak abbreviation of Central.

      Tickets

      Individual train tickets are rarely cost-effective and visitors doing a lot of touring by train may be better off buying a train pass such as InterRail. A one-country InterRail pass ( interrail.eu) for Sweden allows up to eight days’ travel in one month. If you do need to buy an individual ticket, it’s worth knowing that the sooner you buy it the cheaper it will be. The cheapest tickets, limited in number, are available up to ninety days before departure. Reserved seats on Swedish trains are not marked, so although it may appear that a seat is free it may not be so.

      The Inlandsbanan

      If you’re in Sweden for any length of time, travelling at least part of the summer-only Inlandsbanan (Inland Railway; inlandsbanan.se), which runs through central and northern Sweden, is a must. The route takes in some of the country’s most unspoilt terrain – kilometre after kilometre of forests, and several lakes (the train usually stops at one or two of them for passengers to take a quick dip), and offers a chance to see real off-the-beaten-track Sweden. For more information,. The length of the operating season varies from year to year, but trains generally run from some time in June through to August; check the website for the latest details.

      By bus

      Although bus travel is a little less expensive than going by train, long-distance buses are generally less frequent, and so much slower that they aren’t a good choice for long journeys. Most long-distance buses are operated by one of two companies, Swebus ( flixbus.se) and Nettbuss ( nettbuss.se). Departures on Friday and Sunday cost more than on other days.

      Regional buses are particularly important in the north, where they carry mail to isolated areas. Several companies operate daily services, and their fares are broadly similar to one another’s. Major routes are listed in the Destinations sections within each chapter, and you can pick up a comprehensive timetable at any bus terminal.

      By plane

      The main players in the Swedish domestic airline market are: SAS ( sas.se), BRA ( flygbra.se), Norwegian ( norwegian.se) and Air Leap ( airleap.se).

      By ferries and boats

      In a country with such an extensive coastline and many lakes, it’s only natural that domestic ferry services in Sweden are many and varied. The main route is between Visby, on the Baltic island of Gotland, and Nynäshamn, on the mainland near Stockholm. Departures are very popular in summer and you should try to book ahead.

      Many of the various archipelagos off the coast – particularly the Stockholm archipelago with its 24,000 islands – have ferry services which link up the main islands in the group. There’s also an extensive archipelago off Luleå which is worth visiting.

      By car

      As far as road conditions go, driving in Sweden is a dream. Traffic jams are rare (in fact in the north of the country yours will often be the only car on the road), roads are well maintained and motorways, where they exist, are toll-free. The only real hazards are reindeer (in the north), elk and deer, which wander onto the road without warning. It’s difficult enough to see them at dusk, and when it’s completely dark all you’ll see is two red eyes as the animal leaps out in front of your car. If you hit an elk or deer, not only will you know about it (they’re as big as a horse), but you’re bound by law to report it to the police.

      Rules and regulations

      To drive in Sweden, you’ll need your own full licence; an international driving licence isn’t required. Speed limits are 110kph on motorways; 70kph, 80kph or 90kph on main roads; and 30kph, 40kph or 50kph in built-up areas. For cars towing caravans, the limit is 80kph. Fines for speeding are levied on the spot. You must drive with your headlights on 24 hours a day. Studded tyres for driving on snow and ice are allowed between October 1 and April 30, longer if there’s still snow on the ground; when in use they must be fitted to all wheels.

      Swedish drink-driving laws are among the strictest in Europe, and random breath tests are commonplace. Basically, you can’t have even one beer and still be under the limit; the blood alcohol level is 0.02 percent. If you’re found to be over the limit you’ll lose the right to drive in Sweden, face a fine (often) and a prison sentence (not infrequently).

      Parking

      Be attentive when it comes to parking. Under Swedish law you can’t park within 10m of a road junction, be it a tiny residential cul-de-sac or a major intersection. Parking is also prohibited within 10m of a pedestrian crossing, and in bus lanes and loading zones. In city centres, parking isn’t permitted on one night each week to allow for cleaning (see the rectangular yellow signs with days and times in Swedish, below the no stopping sign on every street). In winter the same applies to allow for snow clearance.

      Petrol

      The cost of petrol (bensin) tends to stay in line with the European average. At filling stations, you either pay at the pump with a credit card or inside at the till – choose the pumps marked Kassa for this.

      Car rental agencies

      Avis avis.com

      Europcar europcar.com

      Hertz hertz.com

      SIXT sixt.com

      Cycling

      Some parts of the country were made for cycling: Stockholm, the southern provinces and Gotland in particular are ideal for a leisurely bike ride. Many towns are best explored by bike, and tourist offices, campsites and youth hostels often rent them out by the day. There are a lot of cycle paths in towns, which are often shared with pedestrians.

      < Back to Basics

      Accommodation

      Finding somewhere cheap to stay in Sweden isn’t difficult. There’s an extensive network of youth hostels (of an exceptionally high standard) and campsites, while hotels and guesthouses are common in towns and cities. Self-catering accommodation is generally restricted to youth hostels and campsites, where cabins are often equipped with kitchens.

      Youth hostels

      Youth hostels in Sweden (vandrarhem) turn up in the unlikeliest of places. There are over three hundred of them dotted across the country, in converted lighthouses, old castles and prisons, historic country manors, schoolrooms and even on boats. Quite simply, they offer some of the best accommodation in the country. Forget any preconceptions about youth hostelling: in Sweden, dormitories are few, and most hostels only rent double rooms.

      The majority of hostels are run by STF (Svenska Turistföreningen; svenskaturistforeningen.se). Apart from the STF hostels there are a number of independently run hostels, usually charging similar prices; we’ve mentioned the most useful ones in the text, and tourist offices will have details of any other local independent hostels. Generally, the rental of linen and towels is not included in the price of a room or bed; we have noted any exceptions in the book.

      Fell stations and cabins

      Fell stations (fjällstationer), or mountain lodges, provide top-notch, hostel-like accommodation along mountain hiking routes. They’re usually better equipped than the average youth hostel: rooms are usually private, and each fell station has a sauna, a shop and a kitchen.

      Accommodation price codes

      The price categories used in this book are based on two people sharing a double room in peak season, including breakfast, sales tax (Moms) at 12 percent for accommodation, and service charges. However, there are usually substantial discounts for weekends and during summer.

      €

      = below 1000kr

      €€

      = 1000–1500kr

      €€€

      = 1500–2200kr

      €€€€

      = over 2200kr

      Mountain cabins (fjällstugor), of which there are around ninety in the country, are often no more than simple huts out in the wilds and are wonderful for getting away from it all. Run by the STF, they are generally located at convenient intervals along popular walking routes. Both fell stations and mountain cabins allow you to use a sleeping bag without a sheet underneath.

      Hotels and guesthouses

      Hotels and guesthouses (usually family-run bed and breakfast establishments) needn’t be expensive. You can often find good-value hotel rooms in summer, especially between mid-June and mid-August, when business people who would otherwise fill the hotels during the week are on holiday. The only parts of the country where summer discounts don’t apply are in some of the popular holiday destinations in southern Sweden such as Gotland, where prices can actually go up in summer. Nearly all hotels include a huge self-service buffet breakfast in the price, which will keep you going for much of the day.

      Campsites, cabins and self-catering

      Practically every town or village has at least one campsite, and they are generally of a high standard. To pitch a tent at any of them you’ll need the Camping Key Europe card, which is issued at the first site you visit; contact the Swedish Camping Site Owners’ Association ( camping.se). Most sites are open from June to August. For details on camping rough,.

      Many campsites also boast cabins, which are usually equipped with bunk beds, a kitchen and utensils, but not sheets. Sweden also has a whole series of cabins for rent in spots other than campsites, often in picturesque locations such as in the middle of the forest, by a lakeshore or on the coast. Self-catering in cabins is a good way to keep costs down, and as usual, it’s wise to book ahead to secure one. For information and to make a booking, contact the local tourist office.

      < Back to Basics

      Food and drink

      From meatballs to marinated herring, cloudberries to cinnamon buns, Swedish food is always tasty. There’s no escaping the fact, however, that eating and drinking is going to take up a large slice of your budget in Sweden – though no more so than in any other northern European country.

      Eating well and eating cheaply needn’t be mutually exclusive aims, however the best strategy is to fuel up on breakfast and lunch, both of which offer good-value options. Breakfast is often included in the cost of a night’s accommodation, and most restaurants have lunchtime specials (dagens rätt) that time and again are the best-value meals you’ll find. When eating out, resist the temptation to order a starter – throughout Sweden portions are generous and most main dishes are large enough to fill even the emptiest stomach.

      Note that although tipping in Swedish restaurants is not expected, it is customary to round the bill up to the nearest 20kr or so.

      Food

      Swedish food – based largely on fish, meat and potatoes, and very varied in preparation – is always tasty and well presented and, at its best, is delicious. Unusual specialities generally come from the north of the country and include reindeer, elk meat and wild berries, while herring and salmon come in so many different guises that fish fiends will always be content.

      Sweden’s various salmon dishes are divine either warm or cold, and a mainstay of any Swedish smörgåsbord worth its salt. Herring is mostly served marinated, but don’t let that put you off as it tastes surprisingly good. Sauces feature prominently in Swedish cooking, often flavoured with dill or parsley; alternatively, there are many delicious creamy concoctions too.

      Fika: coffee and cake

      Coffee is to the Swedes what tea is to the British and there’s seemingly no part of the day which isn’t perfect for a "fika": a cup of coffee, accompanied by a pastry or piece of cake. Unsurprisingly, coffee is something the Swedes excel at, and it’s always freshly brewed, strong and delicious; Sweden is one of the world’s nations that drinks the most coffee, even more than Italy! Head for the local konditori, a coffee and cake shop of the first order. Swedes all over the country cease all activities and work twice a day at around 10am and 3pm in order to take fika. It’s not just a sweet snack but functions as a social gathering, a break from work, a catch-up with colleagues, or even a first date. Some of Stockholm’s biggest companies hold scheduled, company-wide fika breaks, and it’s even been known to appear in job contracts.

      Wild berries appear in many dishes, especially the lingonberry, which is something like a cranberry, and makes a good accompaniment to Swedish meatballs, a combination praised by many a Swede as a delicacy of the country. You’ll also be able to taste orange-coloured sweet cloudberries, which grow in the marshes of Lapland and are delicious with ice cream.

      One Swedish speciality to keep an eye out for is surströmming, which is Baltic herring fermented for months until it’s rotten – something of an acquired taste, even to most Swedes.

      Vegetarians should have no problems, with plenty of non-meat options available, especially in the bigger towns; elsewhere the choice may be limited to pizzas and salads.

      Breakfast

      Breakfast (frukost) is invariably a help-yourself buffet in the best Swedish tradition; you can go up to the serving table as many times as you like and eat until you’re fit to explode. Youth hostels charge for breakfast; if you stay in a hotel, it’ll be included in the price of your accommodation.

      Snacks and light meals

      For snacks and light meals you’re really looking at the delights dished up by the gatukök (street kitchen). A gatukök is often no more than a hole in the wall – generally conspicuous by the snaking queue and gaggle of teenagers it attracts – serving sausages, burgers, chips, soft drinks and sometimes pizza slices or chicken pieces.

      For the cheapest eating it’s hard to beat the supermarkets and market stalls. Of the supermarket chains, ICA and Coop have the biggest range of produce but most supermarkets in Sweden are small local affairs selling just the basics and a few other bits and pieces. Alternatively, head for the indoor or outdoor markets, which often have fresher produce than the supermarkets, and at lower prices.

      Fish is always excellent value, especially salmon. Pork and beef aren’t too bad either, but chicken is slightly more expensive. Sweden is a country rich in cheeses, all of which are reasonably good value and make great sandwich fillers; the range runs from stronger ripened cheeses such as Västerbotten and Svecia to milder types like Grevé and Herrgårdsost. Prästost, a medium-strong cheese akin to a mature Cheddar, is also a particular favourite here.

      Restaurants

      Swedes eat their main meal of the day at lunchtime; do likewise and you’ll save lots of cash. However, you don’t have to restrict yourself to eating out at lunchtime; many restaurants also offer special deals in the evening, and even if they don’t, you’re bound to find something on their menu that will fit your pocket. Remember that Swedish portions are generous and that, accordingly, you may not have room for a starter as well.

      Bear in mind that Swedes eat early; lunch will be served from 11am, dinner from 6pm. It’s always a good idea to book a table to avoid disappointment, particularly during the summer months of June to August when tables can be at a premium. Smoking is not allowed in restaurant or pubs.

      At lunchtime, go for the dagens rätt or set dish of the day, which is a good way to sample Swedish husmanskost (home cooking). You’ll also find various pizza and pasta dishes on offer in Italian restaurants, and basic meals in Thai and Chinese restaurants (sometimes a buffet-type spread). Most cafés also offer some sort of dagens rätt but their standard of cooking is often not as good as in restaurants.

      While you’re in Sweden you should sample a smörgåsbord – an array of small dishes, both warm and cold. It’s available in the larger restaurants and in hotels, and can be expensive, but good for a blowout. If you’re a traditionalist you should start with akvavit, drink beer throughout and finish with coffee. Coffee will be included in the price, but alcohol won’t.

      Drinks

      Drinking in Sweden can be expensive, but there are ways of softening the blow. Either forgo bars and buy your booze in the state-run liquor shops, the Systembolaget, or seek out the happy hours (usually called After Work in Swedish) offered at many pubs and bars. The timing of happy hours is usually set to coincide with people finishing work, so keep your eyes peeled for signs either in bar windows or on the pavement outside. Drinking outdoors is frowned upon and you’re not allowed to take alcohol onto a train or the street for your own consumption (drinking alcohol purchased on trains or in pavement cafés is permitted).

      What to drink

      Beer is the most common alcoholic drink in Sweden, although it can be expensive. Whether you buy beer in a café, restaurant or a bar, it’ll cost roughly the same. Unless you specify otherwise, the beer you get in a bar will be starköl (also referred to as storstark), with an alcohol content of 5.6 percent by volume. Low-alcohol beers are available for sale in supermarkets.Wine in restaurants is pricey. It’s also worth trying the akvavit or schnapps, which is made from potatoes, served ice-cold in tiny shots and washed down with beer. It comes in dozens of weird and wonderful flavours, from lemon to cumin-and-dill. If you’re in Sweden at Christmas, don’t go home without having sampled glögg: mulled red wine with cloves, cinnamon, sugar and more than a shot of akvavit.

      Where to drink

      You’ll find pubs and bars in all towns and some villages. In Stockholm and the larger cities the trend is towards British- and Irish-style pubs, although the atmosphere inside never quite lives up to the original. Elsewhere – particularly in the north of the country – you’ll come across more down-to-earth drinking dens. Drink is no cheaper here, and the clientele is predominantly male and usually drunk.

      In the summer, café-bars spill out onto the pavement, which is a

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