Travel Guide East Africa
By Trent Holden, Shawn Duthie, Mark Eveleigh and
3.5/5
()
About this ebook
Lonely Planet's East Africa is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the country has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Feel the pounding of hooves as wildebeest stampede across the Serengeti; all with your trusted travel companion.
Inside Lonely Planet's East Africa Travel Guide:
Lonely Planet's Top Picks - a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them
Itineraries help you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs and interests
Local insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - whether it's history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics
Eating and drinking - get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try
Toolkit - all of the planning tools for solo travellers, LGBTQIA+ travellers, family travellers and accessible travel
Colour maps and images throughout
Language - essential phrases and language tips
Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
Covers Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi and more
About Lonely Planet:
Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures Company, is the world's number one travel guidebook brand. Providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973, Lonely Planet reaches hundreds of millions of travelers each year online and in print and helps them unlock amazing experiences. Visit us at lonelyplanet.com and join our community of followers on Facebook (facebook.com/lonelyplanet), Twitter (@lonelyplanet), Instagram (instagram.com/lonelyplanet), and TikTok (@lonelyplanet).
'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)
Trent Holden
Trent Holden, que tiene su base en Geelong, muy cerca de Melbourne, trabaja para Lonely Planet desde el 2005. Ha contribuido a más de 30 guías, de Australia y de países de Asia y África. Siente atracción por las grandes ciudades, y por lo tanto está en su elemento cuando se le encarga visitar capitales de países (mientras más caótica, mejor); le gusta descubrir bares interesantes, arte, buena comida callejera y la cultura underground. También escribe guías de idílicas islas tropicales de Asia; eso cuando no está de safari en los parques nacionales de África. Aparte de viajar, trabaja como editor y crítico freelance, y se gasta todo lo que tiene yendo a conciertos. Su Twitter es @ HombreHolden.
Read more from Trent Holden
Lonely Planet Beijing Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Lonely Planet Southeast Asia on a shoestring Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Russia Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Mongolia Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Shanghai Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Lonely Planet Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Trans-Siberian Railway Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Africa Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Lonely Planet Melbourne & Victoria Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Southern Africa Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Lonely Planet Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Travel Guide Brazil Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Discover China Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Best of Australia Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Related to Travel Guide East Africa
Related ebooks
Travel Guide Madagascar 10 Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Travel Guide Tanzania Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Tanzania - Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsInsight Guides Tanzania & Zanzibar (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Rough Guide to Game Parks of South Africa (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Ethiopia & Djibouti Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTravel Guide Botswana & Namibia Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Lonely Planet Indonesia Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Nepal Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Insight Guides Madagascar (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Travel Guide Kenya Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Rough Guide to Peru: Travel Guide eBook Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet The Joy Of Water Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Southern Africa Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Lonely Planet Greece Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTravel Guide Morocco Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet West Africa Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Insight Guides South Africa (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Lonely Planet Argentina 13 Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet The Travel Book: A Journey Through Every Country in the World Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet East Coast Australia Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsInsight Guides Kenya Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Rough Guide to First-Time Around the World Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Lonely Planet Maldives Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Rough Guide to Chile & Easter Island (Travel Guide with eBook) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Africa Travel For You
West with the Night (Warbler Classics) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsA Primate's Memoir: A Neuroscientist's Unconventional Life Among the Baboons Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Inside the Belly of an Elephant: A Motorcycle Journey of Loss, Legacy and Ultimate Freedom Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsDeath in the Long Grass: A Big Game Hunter's Adventures in the African Bush Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Nine Hills to Nambonkaha: Two Years in the Heart of an African Village Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Yoruba-English/ English-Yoruba Dictionary & Phrasebook Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Kebra Nagast: The Lost Bible of Rastafarian Wisdom and Faith Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Smart Money Woman Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Berlitz Pocket Guide Mauritius (Travel Guide eBook): (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Akomolede: Learn to Speak Yoruba (eBook) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsDeath in the Dark Continent Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Blood River: The Terrifying Journey through the World's Most Dangerous Country Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Walking the Nile Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe 21: A Journey into the Land of Coptic Martyrs Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Lonely Planet Southern Africa Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/53rd Grade History: The Egyptian Civilization: Egyptian Books for Kids Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Insight Guides South Africa (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5A Zoo in My Luggage Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Personal Life of David Livingstone Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The African Adventurers: A Return to the Silent Places Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsCracking the Code: The Confused Traveler's Guide to Liberian English Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Black Rhinos Of Namibia: Searching for Survivors in the African Desert Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Ethiopia & Djibouti Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLove, Africa: A Memoir of Romance, War, and Survival Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Book of Marvels: The Orient Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Spirit of Place: Letters and Essays on Travel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Fodor's Essential Egypt Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsDeath in a Lonely Land: More Hunting, Fishing, and Shooting on Five Continents Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Reviews for Travel Guide East Africa
11 ratings1 review
- Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Got the job done, I guess. Sort of uninspired. (Much like this review, you say? Oh, you!) I do find that for places like Japan and Turkey Lonely Planet is good at providing cultural information and treating them like places with history, whereas for Africa there's a lot of the "safari park fallacy."
Book preview
Travel Guide East Africa - Trent Holden
EAST AFRICA
MapHow To Use This eBookContents
Plan Your Trip
Welcome
East Africa Map
Our Picks
Regions & Cities
Itineraries
When to Go
Get Prepared
Trip Planner: Safari
The Food Scene
The Outdoors
The Guide
Tanzania
Dar es Salaam
Zanzibar Town
South Zanzibar
North Zanzibar
Chake Chake
Beyond Chake Chake
Bagamoyo
Pangani
Beyond Pangani
Usambara Mountains
Pare Mountains
Mt Kilimanjaro
Arusha
Beyond Arusha
Tarangire National Park
Lake Manyara National Park
Ngorongoro Crater
Serengeti National Park
Lake Natron
Dodomoa Area
Lake Victoria
Gombe National Park
Lake Tanganyika
Mahale Mountains National Park
Katavi National Park
Lake Nyasa
Beyond Lake Nyasa
Ruaha National Park
Beyond Ruaha National Park
Udzungwa Mountains
Mikumi National Park
Nyerere National Park
Mafia Archipelago
Kilwa
Mtwara & Mikindani
Kenya
Nairobi
City Centre (CBD)
Kilimani, Milimani & Upper Hill
Karen, Lang’ata & Dagoretti
Westlands & Parklands
Kileleshwa, Lavington & Around
Naivasha
Lake Elementaita
Nakuru
Lake Bogoria
Lake Baringo
Masai Mara
Kisumu City
Kakamega
Beyond Kakamega
Mt Elgon
Mt Kenya & Meru National Park
Nanyuki
Aberdare
Amboseli
Tsavo West
Mombasa
Diani
Beyond Diani
Shimoni
Beyond Shimoni
Kilifi
Samburu & Isiolo Counties
Marsabit
Lake Turkana
Uganda
Kampala
Entebbe
Beyond Entebbe
Jinja
Beyond Jinja
Mbale
Soroti
Beyond Soroti
Kidepo Valley
Gulu
Beyond Gulu
Hoima
Fort Portal
Kasese
Kabale & Beyond
Democratic Republic of the Congo
Goma
Virunga National Park
Rwanda
Kigali
Volcanoes National Park
Beyond Volcanoes National Park
Lake Kivu
Nyungwe Forest National Park
Huye (Butare)
Nyanza
Akagera National Park
Burundi
Toolkit
Accommodation
Family Travel
Health & Safe Travel
LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Food, Drink & Nightlife
Responsible Travel
Accessible Travel
Nuts & Bolts
Language
How to Explore the Arts
Wildlife
Storybook
A History of East Africa in 15 Places
Wildlife of Tanzania
Memory, Myth & Prophecy
A Journey through East African Literature
Communicating in East Africa
An East Africa Playlist
A Snapshot of Modern Uganda
This Book
EAST AFRICA
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
jpgMountain gorilla, Rwanda | Onyx9/Shutterstock ©
In a region of such vast and varied natural attractions and experiences, it’s a tough task to narrow down the one thing I love most about East Africa. Each day produces highlight after highlight – one moment you’re tracking white rhino on foot, and the next you’re brushing shoulders with a silverback in the jungle. Within a few hours’ drive, you can go from lazing on a pristine beach to standing atop a snowcapped volcano. Every day here I feel humbled and awed by nature, but then it has pulsating cities like Nairobi and Kampala, or laid-back Kigali offering great insights into contemporary and traditional culture, and cool, friendly locals. But for me, it’s Lake Bunyonyi that really seals the deal. It’s a legendary hangout with an unhurried pace of life, where you’ll be content to just kick back and be mesmerised by its astonishing views.
Trent Holden
@hombreholden
Having written for Lonely Planet since 2008, Trent has travelled extensively across Africa and covered destinations from Zimbabwe and Zambia to Uganda and Rwanda.
jpgMy favourite experience is tracking mountain gorillas. After doing this four times, you’d think the novelty would start to wane, but it’s the opposite. No two experiences are ever alike.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define East Africa.
jpgKatja Tsvetkova/Shutterstock ©
Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo is one of my favourite places: spectacular national parks, streets strewn with bougainvillea, and treasured but deeply threatened wildlife. This area reveals a great deal about the way we need to care for places, people, environment and animals in the years ahead.
jpgKatherina Thomas
@klgthomas
Katherina is a writer and medical anthropologist whose writing explores sense of place and human interconnectedness through the lenses of travel, music and infectious diseases.
jpgAnil Varma/Shutterstock ©
Jinja’s contemporary music and art scenes are second only to its wildlife, waterfalls and other outdoor activities. It’s a top destination for its proximity to forests, wetlands, major East African cities and islands. Its rich history and legends make it an attractive destination everyone can enjoy.
jpgAlia Pathan
@alia_pathan
Alia is an award-winning multimedium artist, musician and writer of Ugandan-Asian heritage, and founder of the IDoc whitetigerproject.co.uk.
jpgVadim Petrakov/Shutterstock ©
I’ll never forget arriving at a Masai Mara village at dusk: it was ringed by thorny branches protecting the cattle, whose neck bells chimed sonorously. The locals’ ornate jewellery chinked in harmony as I was taken into a hut made from earth. The nature walks and warm conversations in the days that followed will always be in my heart.
jpgHelena Smith
Helena is a writer and photographer who grew up in Scotland and Malawi. She is co-founder of Wilder, a social enterprise doing wildlife-friendly urban gardening.
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Shawn Duthie
Shawn has been travelling, studying and working around Africa for the past 17 years. He currently lives in South Africa and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing continent.
Julie Olum
@frameambition
Julie is a travel and culture writer, fan of festivals and almost-architect.
Nasibu Mahinya
@nasibuthevibe
Nasibu Mahinya is a Tanzanian writer and entrepreneur.
Neema Githere
@take.back.theinternet
Neema Githere is a writer whose work explores love and indigeneity in a time of algorithmic debris.
Nanjala Nyabola
@nanjalaone
Nanjala travels regularly, occasionally rides motorcycles, periodically climbs mountains and often writes about it all.
Anthony Ham
@AnthonyHamWrite
Anthony writes for the New York Times and others about wildlife and culture; he is the author of The Last Lions of Africa.
Mwende Mutuli Musau
@tulimusau
Better known as Tuli, she is is a writer who specialises in travel, food and culture. She has written for an array of high-profile publications.
Mary Fitzpatrick
Mary is an Africa-based writer and guidebook author who has been living in, writing about and travelling around Tanzania for years.
Mark Eveleigh
markeveleigh.com
A novelist and travel writer, Mark specialises in wildlife and indigenous cultures. He’s covered assignments for BBC Wildlife, CNN Travel and National Geographic Traveller.
Country MapNATURAL WONDERS
Nowhere encapsulates the drama, beauty and raw power of nature than East Africa, home to the world’s longest rivers, oceanic-sized lakes, mightiest mountains and most epic wildlife encounters. Being among its incredible biodiversity and geographical wonders delivers countless life-affirming moments. Of course, no discussion on Africa’s natural wonders is complete without mention of the true stars of the show, its animals, but equally as impressive is the mesmerising backdrop of the natural environment they live in.
Source of the Nile
In 2006 a Kiwi-British–led expedition claimed to find the true source of the Nile, a trickle from a spring in Rwanda’s Nyungwe Forest National Park.
jpgTetyana Dotsenko/Shutterstock ©
Great Wildebeest Calving
As well as the Great Wildebeest Migration, an equally remarkable event occurs between January and March: some 500,000 calves are born in the Serengeti over three weeks!
jpgKiki Dohmeier/Shutterstock ©
World Heritage Listed Sites
Of the 22 Unesco World Heritage–listed sights in East Africa, 15 of those are natural wonders comprising national parks, conservation areas, mountains and lake systems.
jpgWildebeest in Masai Mara | crbellette/Shutterstock ©
BEST NATURAL WONDERS EXPERIENCES
See the stampede of a million-plus wildebeest making their annual great migration through 1 Serengeti and Masai Mara.
Witness the extraordinary variety of animals deep in the grassy caldera of 2 Ngorongoro Crater.
Discover the start of the 3 Nile River’s 6853km journey through 11 countries to Alexandria, Egypt.
Enjoy sighting 4 Mt Kilimanjaro, not just the continent’s highest peak but also the world’s tallest freestanding mountain.
Experience the 5 Virunga Mountains, a chain of eight volcanoes, two of which are active, and the last habitat of the mountain gorilla.
PLAYFUL WORLD OF PRIMATES
Given humans are part of a subgroup of Hominidae primate known as reat apes (orangutans, gorillas, chimpanzees, bonobos and us…), it’s not surprising that close encounters with our cousins has such resonance. It’s one of the most exciting animal encounters on the planet, and East Africa is the definitive place to see both species. But you can also see exotic arboreal and Old World species of monkey too.
Gorilla Habituation
Habituating gorillas involves trackers spending every day in the jungle with them for up to three years, mimicking their behaviour to win over their trust.
jpgGUDKOV ANDREY/Shutterstock ©
Our Closest Cousins
Sharing 99% of our DNA with chimpanzees and 98% with mountain gorillas means they’re highly susceptible to human airborne diseases. Wear masks and get a PCR test.
jpgSam DCruz/Shutterstock ©
Other Primates
There are almost 40 different species of primates to see, from habituated troops of golden monkey and black-and-white colobus to olive baboons and De Brazza’s monkeys.
jpgGolden monkey | PhotocechCZ/Shutterstock ©
BEST PRIMATE EXPERIENCES
Visit 1 Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda’s southwest, home to over half of the world’s last remaining mountain gorillas.
Track mountain gorillas in Rwanda’s 2 Volcanoes National Park, and see the exotic golden monkey.
See habituated troops of chimpanzee, red colobus, black-and-white colobus and L’hoest’s monkey in 3 Kibale National Park in Uganda.
Spot 13 species of primates, including 500-plus chimpanzee and gigantic troops of Angolan colobus in Rwanda’s 4 Ngungwe Forest National Park.
Track chimpanzees in Tanzania’s 5 Gombe National Park, home to a group of 100-plus habituated chimps.
GREAT AFRICAN LAKES
Making up part of the Eastern African Rift, these lakes are dotted across 10 countries in the region. Each offers unique charm and character and, as well as being home to an important source of wildlife and a lifeblood to the local economy, they feed into Africa’s two largest rivers, the Nile and the Congo.
jpgLake Victoria | Tykhanskyi Viacheslav/Shutterstock ©
Islands of Lake Victoria
Lake Victoria has close to 1000 islands, of which most interesting are the Ssese Islands, Rubondo Island and Saanane Island national parks, plus Ngamba Island.
Crocodiles
Kenya’s Lake Turkana is home to the world’s largest population of Nile crocodiles, with an estimated 12,000 of these prehistoric beasts living here.
BEST GREAT LAKE EXPERIENCES
See 1 Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa. Sharing a border with Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya, it offers plenty to see and do.
View the world’s largest permanent desert lake, the World Heritage-listed 2 Lake Turkana, with its Central Island National Park home to an active volcano.
Enjoy 3 Lake Tanganyika, not only the world’s longest freshwater lake but also one of the oldest, the second deepest and second largest in volume).
Explore scenic 4 Lake Kivu (forming the natural border between Rwanda and the DRC); it’s a tropical getaway with islands and laid-back beach resorts.
Check out 5 Lake Nyasa, Africa’s third-largest lake, which reportedly has more fish species than any other freshwater lake on Earth.
TREKKING EAST AFRICA
There’s no better way to experience East Africa’s extraordinary nature and beauty than to strap on the boots and tackle its spectacular hiking trails. Treks can be anything from relaxed nature strolls and summiting volcanoes to hard-core multi-week expeditions scaling snowcapped peaks.
Glaciers
Africa is the hottest region on Earth, but its three highest mountains – Mt Kilimanjaro (pictured), Mt Kenya and the Rwenzoris – are home to the continent’s only glaciers.
jpgWestend61 GmbH/Alamy Stock Photo ©
Mt Nyamuragira
Africa’s most active volcano, Mt Nyamuragira last erupted in 2021, causing a mass evacuation in Goma. Trekking is not recommended, due to civil unrest.
jpgRAW-films/Shutterstock ©
Congo Nile Trail
Hiking isn’t all about high-altitude mountain expeditions, and you’ll find similarly epic (but flat) trails, such as the 227km Congo-Nile Trail along Rwanda’s Lake Kivu.
BEST TREKKING EXPERIENCES
Scale 1 Mt Meru, a volcanic cone that’s one of East Africa’s most rewarding treks, rivalling Mt Kilimanjaro in both beauty and challenge of climb.
Hike Africa’s second-highest mountain, 2 Mt Kenya, in a spectacular week-long trek to its summit, for arguably better views than Kilimanjaro.
Explore Uganda’s 3 Mountains of the Moon: its World Heritage–listed snowcapped Rwenzoris are one of Africa’s highest mountain ranges and leads to otherworldly mist-soaked forests.
Head into gorilla country via trails in Rwanda’s 4 Volcanoes National Park, scaling its volcanic peaks to see crater lakes or visit Dian Fossey’s grave.
Wind through pretty villages and even prettier landscapes with 5 Usambara Mountains trails, one of northeastern Tanzania’s delights.
LIFE’S A BEACH
Complementing East Africa’s safari trail beautifully, its long coastline stretches from Kenya to Tanzania along the dazzling Indian Ocean. Its blinding white sands sheltered by palm trees, and exotic island getaways with translucent warm waters are enough reasons to come here – and many do!
The Indian Ocean
East Africa is famous for beautiful beaches, its coastline an historically important centre for trade and commerce, generating an intriguing mix of African, Indian and Arab cultures.
jpgDan Baciu/Shutterstock ©
Pemba
A relaxed alternative to Zanzibar, the island of Pemba (50km north) sees fewer visitors, despite its idyllic coves and some of East Africa’s best diving.
jpgmohd farid/Shutterstock ©
Inland Beaches
Landlocked countries may not have an ocean, but Ssese Islands, Lake Kivu and Lake Tanganyika all feature enticing beaches and palm trees along their shorelines.
jpgMafia Island | Kjersti Joergensen/Shutterstock ©
BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES
Enjoy a choice of Zanzibar’s dazzling bone-white sanded beaches. But for swimming and sunsets, it’s hard to go past 1 Nungwi.
Check out Kenya’s island of 2 Lamu, famed for its 12km-long Shela Beach and its dreamy sweep of pristine sands.
Admire Kilifi’s 3 Bofa Beach on Kenya’s north coast, which offers a blissful beachside escape, with swaying palms and white sands meeting therolling Indian Ocean.
Relax on Tanzania’s southern coastline, which is home to some stunning beaches, but don’t miss its finest patches of sand on 4 Mafia island.
Explore Kenya’s tranquil powdered sands of 5 Tiwi Beach or the resort set-up of Diani Beach with surfable waves.
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
As a cradle of ancient history, culture and civilisation, there’s nowhere better for visitors to experience East Africa’s rich heritage than its world-class museums and galleries. Here you’ll find diverse collections of artworks and its finest artefacts, all showcased under the one roof.
jpgNairobi National Museum | Images of Africa Photobank/Alamy Stock Photo ©
Rock Art Galleries
Predating East Africa’s contemporary galleries by a mere 2000 years or more, Kondoa’s World-Heritage–listed rock-art sites in Tanzania have 200-plus ancient rock paintings.
Freddie Mercury Museum
The Freddie Mercury Museum is dedicated to Zanzibar’s most famous son, who was born here and lived here until he was eight.
BEST MUSEUM & GALLERY EXPERIENCES
Visit Mombasa’s World Heritage–listed 1 Fort Jesus, a museum with relics from Portuguese warships sunk during the Omani Siege in 1697.
Take a sobering journey through Kigali’s 2 Genocide Memorial, detailing Rwanda’s 100 days of madness where 800,000 people were killed in 1994.
Explore Nairobi’s 3 National Museum, showing cultural and natural-history displays, and its nearby National Gallery, exhibiting African artists.
Celebrate the life of conservationist 4 Dian Fossey and her inspirational work with mountain gorillas in a sleek, architecturally designed museum.
Discover the 5 Tingatinga Art Cooperative Society in Dar es Salaam to watch talented artists at work.
THE BIG FIVE
There’s nothing more riveting than being witness to the dramas that take place on safari. And part of that is the animals that everyone wants to see in Africa – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and big herds of buffalo. While the Big Five is a term coined by hunters for the most difficult and dangerous animals to shoot in Africa on foot, fortunately these days in East Africa shooting the ‘Big Five’ is now about bagging digital trophies instead.
The Ugly Five
Though most are on a mission to see the Big Five, what about the Ugly Five? Try to spot the Marabou stork (pictured), warthog, wildebeest, vulture and spotted hyena.
jpgJMx Images/shutterstock ©
The Small Five
On the other end of the scale are Africa’s Small Five: elephant shrew (pictured), ant lion, rhinoceros beetle, buffalo weaver and leopard tortoise.
jpgleket/Shutterstock ©
The Shy Five
The most elusive is the Shy Five – porcupine, bat-eared fox, aardvark, meerkat and aardwolf. But good luck in seeing any!
BEST ‘BIG FIVE’ EXPERIENCES
Visit Tanzania’s 1 Serengeti National Park, one of Africa’s best places to spot the Big Five after black rhino were introduced here in 2019.
Spot migrating wildebeest in Kenya’s 2 Masai Mara National Reserve alongside good cat sightings, huge herds of buffalo, elephant and black rhino.
Look for all the Big Five in the 3 Ngorongoro Crater, including some of the biggest tuskers you’ll ever see.
Celebrate the return of the Big Five in 4 Akagera in Rwanda, not just with the reintroduction of lions, but black and white rhinos too.
Enjoy the dramatic scenery of Kenya’s 5 Tsavo West National Park, with good predator sightings and, if you’re lucky, black rhino too.
CULTURAL FESTIVALS
Nothing can quite compare to the untapped energy of East Africa’s carnivals and events, whether it’s Afro-beat, jazz, tribal percussion or a celebration of traditional culture. So, if you can time your visit to coincide with one of its varied and fun-filled festivals, it’s definitely worth building a trip around.
jpgNyege Nyege Festival | IAN DUNCAN KACUNGIRA /getty images ©
Running with the Lions
If completing a marathon wasn’t hard enough, try adding lions, elephant and rhino into the mix: precisely what makes the Lewa Safari Marathon so popular.
Kwita Izina
In Rwandan culture the naming of child is a momentous occasion, and this extends to to mountain gorillas when, each September, baby gorillas are officially named in Musanze.
BEST MUSIC EXPERIENCES
Experience Zanzibar’s annual 1 Sauti za Busara, showcasing all music genres – from taarab, and Afro-jazz to bongo flava – over three days in February.
Attend 2 Mombasa Carnival in November for its month-long street festival featuring music, dance and cultural events across Kenya’s coastal hub.
Enjoy Uganda’s pulsating 3 Nyege Nyege Festival, with three days of DJs and electronica along the banks of the Nile.
Celebrate Rwanda’s music festival 4 Kigali Up!, which takes place in the capital around August with local and international acts.
Marvel at the nearly 90-year-old 5 Kenya Music Festival in August, the nation’s longest-running music festival.
OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
With all that warm weather, spectacular scenery and long coastline, East Africa is one giant outdoor-adventure playground. As well as trekking, safaris and the like, a lot of the action happens out on the water, with both world-class whitewater rafting and stunning diving amid a kaleidoscope of colourful corals.
Canopy Walk
A fully immersive experience, Nyungwe Forest National Park’s canopy walk in Rwanda (pictured) has you walking nervously 70m above the canopy over Africa’s most ancient montane forest.
jpgTONY KARUMBA/Stringer/getty images ©
Learn to Run Like a Champion
Producing some of the world’s greatest athletes, Kenya’s High Altitude Training Centre isn’t just for elite sportspeople, but isopen to everyone interested in running.
jpgHolger Leue/getty images ©
Stargazing
There are few more powerful experiences than gazing up towards a galaxy of billion stars in the night skies of East Africa’s national parks.
BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURE EXPERIENCES
Bungee-jump into the Nile in between jet-boating and taming grade V whitewater rapids in 1 Jinja, home of East Africa’s outdoor-adventure scene.
Dive into the temptations of the 2 Zanzibar Archipelago; from Pempa to Mnemba Atoll, it’s a bucket-list destination for divers worldwide.
Pedal or hike through local villages and witness stupendous lake vistas on the 227km 3 Congo-Nile Trail that follows the length of Rwanda’s Lake Kivu.
Snorkel amid bright corals and colourful fish in Kenya’s 4 Kisite Mpunguti, which is also the place for kiteboarding, windsurfing, kayak paddling or SUP.
See the great wildebeest migration from above in a hot-air balloon for an even more spectacular perspective of the 5 Serengeti’s untamed wilderness.
TUNE IN & DROP OUT
With all those long distances and early starts, the rigours of an action-packed travel itinerary can catch up with you. So, when it’s time to slow it down, hit one of East Africa’s legendary scenic hangouts, where it’s all about leisurely days spent among spectacular scenery.
jpgJambiani beach | robertharding/Alamy Stock Photo ©
Forest Bathing
Relax among East Africa’s national parks and forests as you appreciate the sounds and smells, and focus on smaller aspects of its rich biodiversity.
Slow Travel
Aim to stop for a bit, maybe renting a place by the beach in Jambiani to enjoy blissful days while gaining insights into village life.
BEST CHILL-OUT EXPERIENCES
Relax at 1 Lake Bunyonyi, gazing out to its spectacular scenery in between leisurely paddles on the lake.
Chill out with a book, bonfire and hammock in the middle of Lake Victoria on the blinding white sandy beaches of the 2 Ssese Islands.
Spend days swimming, walking through local villages and unwinding in the fresh air at Rwanda’s 3 Twin Lakes, set with a backdrop of towering volcanoes.
Enjoy a unique blend of beachside resort and wildlife safari where the Indian Ocean meets the forest in 4 Saadani National Park.
Recharge among nature at 5 Nanyuki, looking out to Mt Kenya and within easy reach of Laikipia plateau, national parks and wildlife conservancies.
LUXURY ESCAPES
If your budget will stretch, splurge for a night or two in one of East Africa’s famous safari lodges. You’ll get to enjoy not just a rustic brand of luxury, but also be right among nature and wildlife as you relax poolside in between safaris, while indulging in a massage and wonderful views.
In the Thick of It
Whether soaking in a bath overlooking the Nile’s rapids at Wildwaters Lodge or spending a night underwater at Pemba, East Africa has unique accommodation options.
jpgpaula french/shutterstock ©
Wildlife Watching from Bed
As well as the top-end luxury lodges, East Africa’s mobile safari camps bring you front-row views as they move to wherever the animals are.
jpgAriadne Van Zandbergen/Alamy Stock Photo ©
BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURE EXPERIENCES
Head deep into gorilla country amid Virunga’s volcanoes at Rwanda’s 1 Bisate Lodge, with its luxury thatched pod huts integrated into the landscape.
Stay at 2 Nay Palad Bird Nest, a contender for Africa’s most memorable accommodation. its thatched towers jut up among the Laikipia plains, northwest of Nanyuki.
Admire views of Kilimanjaro from your four-poster bed with private plunge pool and your own waterhole at 3 Ol Donyo, one of Kenya’s memorable options.
Live your castaway fantasy on an island off an island at 4 Pemba Lodge’s rustic and remote wooden bungalows by the beach.
Experience views over the Rwenzori mountains at 5 Papaya Lake Lodge’s spacious cottages, set among Uganda’s scenic Great Crater Lakes region.
HISTORY & RUINS
East Africa is a cradle of human civilisation, and with its diverse array of ancient cultures it’s a destination with a fascinating history. Here you’ll find many interesting historical and archaeological sites that offer a glimpse into its past, from precolonial times through to independence.
jpgGede Ruins | Authentic travel/Shutterstock ©
Oldupai Gorge
Oldupai Gorge, near Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania, is known as the cradle of humankind after the remarkable discovery of the 1.8 million-year old hominid skull of Australopithecus boisei.
Old Meets New
Kigali’s striking Conference Centre, built in 2016, is East Africa’s most expensive building. It is designed as a 21st-century version of Nyanza’s royal palace.
BEST HISTORICAL SITE EXPERIENCES
Discover an intriguing fusion of Arabic, Indian, European and African influences in 1 Zanzibar’s Stone Town, one of East Africa’s most atmospheric historical quarters.
Experience the 2 Gede Ruins; dating from the 15th century, they offer a window into this ancient Swahili trading post along Kenya’s north coast.
See Uganda’s World Heritage–listed 3 Kasubi Tombs, a striking thatched structure that’s the final resting place for Buganda kings.
Spot the ruins of Kilifi’s medieval Swahili port city of 4 Mnarani, sitting high on a bluff with a well-preserved mosque amid massive baobab trees.
Admire World Heritage–listed 5 Kilwa Kisiwani, a complex of 15th-century Arabic ruins with an imposing fort and mosque.
TRADITIONAL CULTURE & TRIBES
With some 300 different ethnic groups across the region there’s no better way to get insights into local life than through grassroots eco-culture tours. From pogoing with Maasai warriors and taking artistry workshops to homestays in local villages, don’t miss an opportunity immerse yourself in the everyday beauty, realities and vibrancy of East African life.
The Maasai
The Maasai people are pastoral nomads in Kenya and Tanzania who have actively resisted change and follow the same lifestyle they have for centuries.
jpgKatiekk/Shutterstock ©
Twa & Hadzabe
Having resided in the forests for 10,000-plus years, the hunter-gatherer Twa (Rwanda, Burundi, Uganda and DRC) and Hadzabe (Tanzania; pictured) people are among East Africa’s oldest ethnic groups.
jpgPiu_Piu/Shutterstock ©
The Turkana
Living in the harsh desert country of northwestern Kenya, the pastoralist Turkana people are famous for their distinctive mud-covered heads painted blue and decorated with ostrich feathers.
BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCES
Staying in a Masaai village in 1 Ewangan is a wonderful cultural experience, where you’ll help with daily chores while learning traditional skills.
Pick the coffee berries before roasting them on an open fire in 2 Sipi Falls in Eastern Uganda, where you can have a bean-to-cup experience.
See banana beer being made, with the vigorous pressing of bananas in a wooden tank accompanied by singing and dancing in Rwanda at 3 Red Rocks.
Spend a day with the Hadzabe people in Tanzania’s 4 Lake Eyasi, learning traditional hunting skills and collecting wild honey.
Tak a locally led cultural and historical tour with Afri Roots around 5 Dar es Salaam and rural communities across Tanzania.
REGIONS & CITIES
Find the places that tick all your boxes.
ITINERARIES
Safari, Beaches & Culture
jpgAllow: 7 days Distance: 1644km
If you’re here for animals, stunning scenery, beaches and local culture, then this is the trip for you. Slicing through Kenya’s southern wilderness, it combines all of Africa’s big-name animals and national parks before reaching the ancient Swahili port town of Mombasa, then Nairobi for more culture, food and nightlife.
jpgjpgZebra, Masai Mara | Mongkolchon Akesin/shutterstock ©
1 Masai Mara National Reserve 2 DAYS
Flying in from Nairobi, explore Kenya’s most famous safari destination, Masai Mara National Reserve, with its golden bleached savannah filled with the highlights reel of a David Attenborough documentary. There’s the Big Five, giraffes, zebra and predators aplenty, but it gets even better; come July through to October you’ll be witness to the thunderous stampede of the wildebeest migration at full flight.
1¼ hour flight
jpgMaggy Meyer/shutterstock ©
2 Amboseli National Park 1 DAY
Thanks to Kenya’s handy network of domestic flights, in just over an hour you’ll find yourself at another astounding wilderness area, Amboseli National Park. Famed for both its herds of big-tusked elephants and majestic Mt Kilimanjaro backdrop, it’s a photographer’s paradise. As well as big cats, the park’s also home to 370 bird species and features some of Kenya’s most memorable safari lodges.) 1½ hours to Tsavo West; 2 hours to Tsavo East
jpgGoodFocused/shutterstock ©
3 Tsavo West & Tsavo East National Parks 1 DAY
A 1½ hour drive east will lead you on to more dramatic scenery as you reach Tsavo West National Park and Tsavo East National Park, Kenya’s largest wildlife parks. Tsavo West is also home to the Big Five, while Tsavo East has all the big cats and Kenya’s largest elephant population – so it’s clear you’re just being spoiled now. 5 hours
jpgDan Rata/shutterstock ©
4 Mombasa 1 DAY
After squeezing in one more early morning safari, arrive in Mombasa midafternoon for your first glimpse of the Indian Ocean. An intriguing blending of cultures, this is Kenya’s second-largest city but it’s a world away from Nairobi, as you’ll discover when exploring its old town, with its ornate 19th-century architecture, mosques and spice market, before a sunset dinner on a dhow cruise around the harbour. 1 hour
jpgLaura Klokocnikova/shutterstock ©
5 Tiwi Beach 1 DAY
Just a short drive south of Mombasa are the inviting white sands of Tiwi Beach. One of Kenya’s most attractive coastal destinations, this is where you’ll indulge in doing nothing but relaxing in paradise. Don’t forget to pack a snorkel and mask, as there’s some beautiful coral and marine life to explore underwater here. 4½r hours
jpgAndrzej Kubik/shutterstock ©
6 Nairobi 1 DAY
Having been mesmerised by Kenya’s beautiful wilderness and charmed by its old-world culture and beaches, it’s time to brace yourself and dive head-first into its infamous capital. As East Africa’s most cosmopolitan city, Nairobi gets a bad rap and, despite its grittiness and chaos, once you step foot in its museums, galleries and restaurants, you’ll start to come round.
jpgAuthentic travel/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
Kenya’s Central Highlands
jpgAllow: 6 days Distance: 777km
A loop through one of the most evocative sections of Africa’s Great Rift Valley, this is a wondrous journey through wilderness areas, lakes, ancient landscapes and towering mountains. It’s a trip taking in a string of national parks and conservation areas, which tick the boxes for wildlife sightings and natural beauty.
jpgjpgImpala, Hell’s Gate National Park | Matyas Rehak/shutterstock ©
1 Lake Nakuru National Park 1 DAY
Making an early start from Nairobi, head northwest through the Southern Rift Valley to stop at Hell’s Gate National Park, where you can stretch your legs among grazing giraffe, zebra and buffalo. A few hours further ahead and you’ll be in Lake Nakuru, one of Kenya’s finest national parks and famous for its tree-climbing lions, leopard flamingos, and black and white rhinos. 3 hours
jpgjavarman/shutterstock ©
2 Lake Bogoria & Lake Baringo 1 DAY
After an early-morning wildlife drive it’s back on the road, heading further north to beautiful Lake Bogoria for flamingos along its western shore. Further along is Lake Baringo, the most remote of the Rift Valley lakes and Kenya’s premier birdwatching destination that’s home to over 460 species. Take a boat ride, set off on a nature walk or visit local lakeside villages. 5 hours
jpgimageBROKER.com/shutterstock ©
3 Nanyuki 1 DAY
Loop back southeast to pass through the Laikipia plateau, with Africa’s second-tallest mountain, the mighty Mt Kenya (5199m), looming in the distance – a weeklong undertaking if you trek to one of its summits. Here you’ll pass semi-arid plains and acacia-thicket-covered hills among ranches and important wildlife conservancies before arriving at Nanyuki, the lively gateway town for exploring the area. 30 minutes
jpgZoomtraveller/shutterstock ©
4 Ol Pejeta Conservancy 1 DAY
The closest place to Nairobi to see the Big Five, Ol Pejeta is a private wildlife reserve known for its black rhino conservancy. There’s also its Endangered Species Enclosure, home to the last two northern white rhinos in the world. There’s a sanctuary for rescued chimpanzees and many activities here to keep you busy, including guided bushwalks and a night safari to track lions. 1½ hours
jpgAbraham Ochieng/shutterstock ©
5 Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 1 DAY
Leaving behind the Mount Kenya highlands, enter the vast region of open savannah grasslands of Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. This is another important conservation area set up to save Kenya’s rhinos, with some of the finest wildlife viewing in the country; there’s almost guaranteed sightings of all the Big Five. It’s also unusual in that walking and cycling safaris take place inside the wilderness area. 3 hours
jpgWild_about_Safari/shutterstock ©
6 Meru National Park 1 DAY
Drive directly east to Meru National Park one of Kenya’s most underrated parks where, as well as lion, it’s one of the best places to see rhino in the wild. There are twice-daily flights to Nairobi to end this memorable six-day loop.
Detour: Alternatively, drive back via Aberdare National Park, famous for its mountain trails through dense rainforest and home to rare black leopard. 6½ hours from Meru National Park
jpgRichard M Gray/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
Uganda’s Southwest
jpgAllow: 7 days Distance: 1266km
Take an action-packed week of adventure, unforgettable animal encounters and stunning natural beauty through Uganda’s southwest. From whitewater rapids in Jinja to the adrenaline rush of seeing gorillas in the wild, it’s a trip to get the heart pumping. And there’s a stop in Lake Bunyoni built in to soothe.
jpgjpgLake Bunyonyi | Dmitry Pichugin/shutterstock ©
1 Kampala 1 DAY
Downtown Kampala has a pulsating energy, but there’s also more relaxed pockets in the capital with renowned restaurants. As well as a good spot for organising last-minute gorilla permits, Kampala is a great place to learn about its Bugandan Kingdom and the history of its royal family. As well as the fascinating Bulange Royal Building, you’ll find its World Heritage–listed Kasubi Tombs. 2 hours
jpgPecold/shutterstock ©
2 Jinja 1 DAY
Though in the opposite direction to which you’ll be heading, definitely try to squeeze in Jinja, an attractive town set along the shores of Lake Victoria. It’s famous not just as the site of the source of Nile but also as East Africa’s premier destination for outdoor adventure, with a world-class whitewater rafting scene, bungee jumping, horse safaris and sunset boat cruises. 10¾ hours
jpgAnil Varma/shutterstock ©
3 Lake Bunyonyi 1 DAY
It’s a long journey to spectacular Lake Bunyonyi, but the rewards will be well worth it. With its steep tiered terrace hills plunging into reflective waters dotted with islands, it’s a majestic sight lifted out of a Tolkien novel. Days are spent paddling out on the lake in between sitting back with a meal of local crayfish and a cold beer and a sunset. 4 hours 10 minutes
Detour: Head across the border to Rwanda via Kisoro and Mgahinga National Park. 1½ hour from Lake Bunyonyi to Kisoro.
jpgTravel Stock/shutterstock ©
4 Bwindi Inpenetrable National Park 1 DAY
Bwindi Inpenetrable National Park is the reason most visit Uganda – to see its famed mountain gorillas. One of the most humbling wildlife encounters, nothing can quite prepare you for the moment you find yourself face to face with a silverback gorilla in the wild. Here there are 12 habituated groups to visit who live among the steamy jungles of this attractive mountainous scenery. 1 hour 10 minutes
jpgJane Rix/shutterstock ©
5 Queen Elizabeth National Park 1 DAY
Head out on safari to Queen Elizabeth National Park. It’s a big area and, given time is tight, the focus here will lie on the southern Ishasha sector, famed for its resident tree-climbing lions. Though, like with any wildlife safari, seeing them is never guaranteed, if you’re fortunate enough they’re quite the sight. Otherwise, there’s plenty of other big-name animals on offer here. 10 hours
jpgBetti Matteo/shutterstock ©
6 Entebbe 1 DAY
Stop at scenic Lake Mburo National Park for lunch before reaching Entebbe, with its pleasant setting overlooking Lake Victoria. As well as beach bars and botanical gardens, its main highlight is Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, home to around 50 orphaned chimps that have been rescued from across East Africa.
jpgEstela Gil/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
North of Tanzania
jpgAllow: 7 days Distance: 968km
Behind the DRC, Tanzania is East Africa’s biggest country, so if you’ve only got a week or so here, stick to this ‘best hits’ itinerary, focusing on wildlife, Swahili culture and beaches. For wildlife and nature lovers, Tanzania’s northern safari circuit – Serengeti, Kilimanjaro, Ngorongoro Crater – will blow your mind.
jpgjpgWildebeest, Serengeti National Park | DongDongdog/shutterstock ©
1 Arusha 1 DAY
Fly into Arusha, which is the gateway to some of Africa’s most iconic sights. This relaxed, scenic town is where many tourists book their safari, but also leave time for cultural tours, and to head out to enjoy views of both Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m) and Mt Meru’s (4566m) perfect volcanic cone. 4 hours
jpgColinmthompson/shutterstock ©
2 Ngorongoro Crater 1 DAY
Strap yourself in for one of the true natural wonders of Africa: Ngorongoro Crater. This lost world is home to a staggering display of wildlife living deep within the crater of this ancient volcano. The views from its rim are mind-blowing, but it’s down below where the real drama takes place, as prey and predators graze and stalk their way around its open grassland. 1¼ hours
jpgMagdalena Paluchowska/shutterstock ©
3 Serengeti National Park 1 DAY
For wildlife viewing, there’s no more famous name than Serengeti National Park. Between July and August the extraordinary wildebeest migration takes place here, as herds of some 1.5 million thunder through, running the gauntlet of predators along the way. But the Serengeti is very much a year-round destination. Home to the Big Five, it yields some of the best animal sightings in Africa. 6 hours; 1 hour 20 minutes
jpgevenfh/shutterstock ©
4 Zanzibar Stone Town 1 DAY
Looping back to Arusha, jump on a flight to Zanzibar. There are few more evocative names in travel than this legendary destination, and in Zanzibar Town you’ll be charmed by its historic quarter. Known as Stone Town, it’s a delight to get lost among its labyrinth of narrow streets lined with atmospheric architecture, combining Arabic, Indian, European and African influences. 1¼ hours
jpgScott Biales DitchTheMap/shutterstock ©
5 Jambiani 2 DAYS
There’s no shortage of options for beaches among the Zanzibar Archipelago. The best are generally up north and along the east coast, but down south is also memorable. Paje is the perfect choice for those seeking a lively beach holiday, but for somewhere really relaxed try Jambiani, where carefree days overlooking translucent waters and blinding white sands can easily merge into weeks. 1¼ hours from Jambiani to Zanzibar Stone Town; 25 minute flight to Dar es Salaam
jpgBecker Stefan/shutterstock ©
6 Dar es Salaam 1 DAY
Back on the mainland, Tanzania’s biggest city won’t win beauty awards, but Dar es Salaam has an alluring tropical vibe and energy to make it worth a night or two. Head to its National Museum to learn about the Shirazi civilisation of Kilwa and the Zanzibar slave trade, before strolling along the atmospheric waterfront and lively fish market and enjoying a waterfront dinner.
jpgAboubakar Malipula/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
Rwanda’s Gorillas, Lakes & Culture
jpgAllow: 4 days Distance: 566km
Rwanda is somewhere you cover a lot of ground in a short time. Within a few hours’ drive from Kigali you’re in Volcanoes National Park for mountain gorillas, before moving on to massive Lake Kivu. This leads on to wild chimpanzees in Nywange before looping around back to the capital.
jpgjpgGorilla, Volcanoes National Park | siyasanga mbambani/shutterstock ©
1 Kigali 1 DAY
Hands down East Africa’s most attractive capital, Kigali offers a relaxed and green first glimpse of the country. As it’s enclosed entirely by hills, there’s plenty of good views to take in while enjoying its cosmopolitan food scene. A visit to its genocide museum makes for a sombre but important stop, but is balanced by vibrant art galleries and engaging walking tours. 2 hours 20 minutes
jpgStephanie Braconnier/shutterstock ©
2 Volcanoes National Park 1 DAY
Lying within easy reach from Kigali is Rwanda’s most famous residents, the mountain gorillas. Volcanoes National Park is one of the best places in the world to see these extraordinary creatures, a close encounter like no other. Making up part of the Virunga massif are Rwanda’s five volcanoes that share the border with Uganda and the DRC and offer amazing trekking among its wildlife-filled jungles. 1¼ hours
jpgVadim_N/shutterstock ©
3 Lake Kivu 1 DAY
Another short drive west takes you to Lake Kivu, Rwanda’s largest lake and a tropical getaway among palm trees and sandy beaches. Rubavu is the region’s biggest town and sits on the border alongside Goma in the DRC. From here you can tackle the Congo-Nile Trail, but otherwise continue south to Karongi for island-hopping and Rusizi for its lakeside atmosphere. 4½ hours from Rubavu to Nyungwe
jpgLMspencer/shutterstock ©
4 Nyungwe 1 DAY
From Rusizi head east to reach Nyungwe Forest National Park, home to some of Africa’s most ancient montane forests. You’ll find 13 species of primate, including habituated troops of chimpanzee and Angola colobus. Continuing east, you’ll pass Huye and its Ethnographic Museum. 5 hours
jpgRobin Nieuwenkamp/shutterstock ©
5 NYANZE & KIGALI
Continue on to reach Nyanza to learn about Rwanda’s former monarchy. Finish off by continuing north back to Kigali (pictured).
jpgJennifer Sophie/shutterstock ©
WHEN TO GO
East Africa’s can be visited year-round; however, the rainy season, despite its low-season discounts, can put a dampener on things.
Regardless of whether you’re in the steamy jungles of Rwanda, the snowcapped mountains of Uganda, the grassy plains of Tanzania or on the sultry coastline of Kenya, there are only two seasons here in East Africa: the wet and the dry, though they each appear twice every year.
From December to mid-March you have the ‘short dry season’, where rainfalls are minimal and weather is pleasant. Then there’s the ‘long wet season’ – mid-March to the end of May – which, though you can still do all the activities, is extremely muddy, and wildlife watching is more difficult. June to August brings the ‘long dry season’, which is peak season and brings the masses for the wildebeest migration. Come October to the end of November you have the ‘short wet season’, characterised by short bursts of rain lasting no more than an hour or so.
Accommodation Lowdown
Definitely book well ahead for the months of the peak season: July to August.
jpgMwaka Kogwa festival | Robin Batista/shutterstock ©
I LIVE HERE
Mountain gorillas
Prosper Uwingeli is Chief Park Warden at Volcanoes National Park
From the visitor’s perspective there are several factors involved in deciding the time to visit Rwanda. As the Chief Park Warden for the last 16 years, I find it false to say that the dry months (June to September) are the best period to visit gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Less busy months like November and March offer the authentic experience, with most gorilla families easily accessible, and amazing landscape views.
GREEN SHOOTS
Though it’s best to avoid safaris during the long rainy season, come the tail-end in May, East Africa’s parks are lush shades of green. While wildlife can still be harder to spot due to longer grasses, if you’re a photographer this is the peak time.
THE DISAPPEARING SNOWS OF KILIMANJARO
To marvel at Mt Kilimanjaro’s famed icecapped peaks, the best months are from December to April, before it starts to melt. However, in the past century, its ice coverage has shrunk by a staggering 90%, leading scientists to fear snow could disappear altogether by 2040.
East Africa’s Best Festivals
Loyangalani’s fascinating Lake Turkana Cultural Festival celebrates the colourful tribal groups of Kenya’s otherworldly desert lake region. June
Arguably East Africa’s premier cultural event, the Zanzibar International Film Festival (aka Festival of the Dhow Countries) is held over two weeks in July, with film, live performances and literary events focusing on the Indian Ocean region. July
Held on the small island of Lamu in Eastern Kenya, the Lamu Cultural Festival takes place at its World Heritage–listed Old Town. Expect anything from donkey and dhow races to poetry, live music and fashion shows. November
Held in Kenya’s second largest city, the colourful Mombasa Carnival is a month-long street party celebrating the region’s diverse tribal cultures. November
On the Quirkier Side
Saddle up for Maralal’s International Camel Derby in northern Kenya, where professionals and amateurs take part in this camel race, that’s equally serious as it is fun. August
Along the shores of Lake Victoria is Kampala’s Royal Ascot Goat Races, a day of fun, colour and fancy dress. September
Celebrating the Shirazi new year, the Mwaka Kogwa Festival takes place in Zanzibar’s southern town of Makunduchi. Held over four days, it’s most famous for locals bashing each other with banana stalks in a mass ‘play fight’ that marks the end of all the resentments, misunderstandings and bitterness. Colourful clothes are worn and traditional songs sung, and a hut is lit on fire as a symbol of beginning the year anew. July
In September is Rwanda’s Kwita Izina festival, where the nation gathers to celebrate the naming of the newborn gorillas. September
I LIVE HERE
The Serengeti
Waziri Jori is a guide for &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge
Many think the best time to visit Serengeti’s Western Corridor is July and August, when the herds of the Great Migration can be seen braving the huge crocodiles of the Grumeti in the famous river crossings. However, I prefer the months just before. The herds of wildebeest are close enough that it’s possible to drive out from the lodge to see them, but you don’t experience the higher numbers of vehicles.
jpgWildebeest and crocodile, Mara River | Luis Jimenez Benito/getty images ©
THE EQUATOR
East Africa has a foot in both northern and southern hemispheres, as the equator slices through the tropics of DRC, Uganda and Kenya. It’s all pretty hot and steamy but, interestingly, it’s also where you’ll find the glacial peaks of the Rwenzoris and Mt Kenya.
Weather Through the Year
jpgJANUARY
Avg daytime max: 30°C
Days of rainfall: 7
jpgFEBRUARY
Avg daytime max: 30°C
Days of rainfall: 7
jpgMARCH
Avg daytime max: 30°C
Days of rainfall: 12
jpgAPRIL
Avg daytime max: 30°C
Days of rainfall: 16
jpgMAY
Avg daytime max: 28°C
Days of rainfall: 12
jpgJUNE
Avg daytime max: 28°C
Days of rainfall: 5
jpgJULY
Avg daytime max: 28°C
Days of rainfall: 4
jpgAUGUST
Avg daytime max: 28°C
Days of rainfall: 4
jpgSEPTEMBER
Avg daytime max: 28°C
Days of rainfall: 6
jpgOCTOBER
Avg daytime max: 29°C
Days of rainfall: 10
jpgNOVEMBER
Avg daytime max: 29°C
Days of rainfall: 12
jpgDECEMBER
Avg daytime max: 29°C
Days of rainfall: 10
GET PREPARED FOR EAST AFRICA
Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain
jpgRonnie Kaufman/getty images ©
Manners
Take time to greet the other person with a polite ‘How are you?’ before asking a question.
Always ask before photographing people. Never photograph someone if they don’t want you to.
Impatience will get you nowhere, always try to be patient, friendly and considerate.
Avoid criticising any country’s local government.
Avoid public displays of affection.
Don’t eat or pass things with the left hand.
Clothes
Trekking/Outdoors Quick-dry hiking pants and long sleeve shirts are handy; presoaking them in permethrin will help keep the mosquitoes away. For safari, pack light neutral tones, along with a rain jacket, sun hat and sunglasses. Take good walking shoes (preferably waterproof) and hiking boots for treks, while flip-flops are useful for showering.
Everyday Loose-fitting, lightweight, casual wear is best. Cotton or linen is recommended for the heat, and a fleece or wool sweater for cooler nights. Long sleeves help prevent mosquito bites. Bring smarter clothes for nights out in cities. In some conservative religious areas, such as the Swahili Coast, go with more modest attire; away from the beach women should cover arms and legs, while men should avoid shorts and singlets that show the shoulders.
READ
jpgThe Perfect Nine (Ngũgĩ wa Thiong’o; 2021) Kenya’s most celebrated writer’s Booker-nominated novel tells the story of the Gikuyu people.
jpgParadise (Abdulrazak Gurnah; 1994) Tanzania’s Nobel Prize–winning author’s book about a young boy’s journey from East Africa to the UK.
jpgWaiting (Goretti Kyomuhendo; 2007) Novel by one of Uganda’s pioneering female writers about a family’s life during Idi Amin’s fall.
jpgCockroaches (Scholastique Mukasonga; 2006) Memoir about the 1994 genocide, in which 37 members of the writer’s family were killed.
Words
Swahili
Jambo is a pidgin Swahili word used to greet tourists.
Habari (ha·ba·ree) is a common greeting used to ask ‘What’s going on?’
Shikamoo (shee·ka·moh) is a more respectful greeting used to show reverence for elders or someone in a position of authority.
Hakuna Matata (hah·koo·nah mah·tah·tah) is the most famous Swahili phrase among visitors, meaning ‘no worries’.
Afya! (ah·fyah) is used to say cheers when toasting a drink.
Pole pole (polay polay) means ‘slowly’, a term to use with speeding bus drivers.
Sina pesa (see·nah peh·sah) ‘I don’t have any’; used for kids asking for money, pens or sweets.
Kinyarwanda (Rwanda)
Muraho (moo·ra·ho) is the most common way to say ‘hello’ in a general everyday setting, while Mwaramutse (mwa·ra·moot·seh) is ‘good morning’ and Mwiriwe (mwe e·ree·way) is ‘good afternoon’, a way of generally saying ‘how is your day?’.
Amakuru? (a·ma·koo·roo) is ‘how are you?’, to which one replies Ni meza (I’m fine) or simply yeho (yes). Bite (bee·teh) is a more informal greeting used with younger people, meaning ‘Hi, how’s it going?’
Murakoze (moo·rah·koh·zeh) is ‘thank you’.
Luganda (Uganda)
Wabula (wa·boo·la) is used to say ‘hello’ in a more formal setting or to elders or those of authority, while Oli otya (oh·lee oh·tyah) is more casual to people of your own age or younger.
Oli otya (oh·lee oh·tyah)? is ‘how are you?’
Webale Nyo (weh·bah·lay nyoh) is ‘thank you very much’.
Nedda is ‘no thanks’.
WATCH
Maangamizi: The Ancient One (Ron Mulvihill, Martin Mhando, 2001) Shot in Tanzania, about a psychiatrist who moves there with her boyfriend.
Rafiki (Wanuri Kahiu; 2018; pictured) First Kenyan film screened at the Cannes Film, it’s about a female same-sex couple in Nairobi.
The Queen of Katwe (Mira Nair; 2016) Film based on true story of a young chessplayer turned Woman Candidate Master.
Sometimes in April (Raoul Peck; 2005) This film about the 1994 genocide, starring Idris Elba, offers a powerful story.
Gorillas in the Mist (Michael Apted; 1988) Moving account of Dian Fossey’s inspiring life spent among Rwanda’s mountain gorillas.
jpgLifestyle pictures/Alamy Stock Photo ©
LISTEN
Virunga Volcano (Orchestre Virunga; 1984) Samba, sublime guitar licks, a bubbling bass and rich vocals from Samba Mapangala.
Nairobi Beat: Kenyan Pop Music Today (1989) Regional sounds, including Luo, Kikuyu, Akamba, Luhya, Swahili and Congolese.
Amigo (Les Wanyika; 1998) classic Swahili rumba from one of Kenya’s most influential bands.
Olugendo (Bernard Kabanda, 1999) By prestigious Kampala kadongo street