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Lonely Planet Kauai
Lonely Planet Kauai
Lonely Planet Kauai
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Lonely Planet Kauai

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Lonely Planet's Kauai is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Zip around sea caves on the Na Pali Coast, absorb Grand Canyon vistas in Waimea Canyon, and surf in Hanalei Bay; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Kauai and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet's Kauai:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

Color maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Covers Lihu'e, Kapa'a, Hanalei, Po'ipu, Waimea Canyon and more

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Kauai, our most comprehensive guide to Kauai, is perfect for discovering both popular and off-the-beaten-path experiences. 

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

LanguageEnglish
PublisherLonely Planet
Release dateFeb 15, 2022
ISBN9781838692452
Lonely Planet Kauai

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    Book preview

    Lonely Planet Kauai - Brett Atkinson

    Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

    Kauaʻi

    MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

    Contents

    Plan Your Trip

    Welcome to Kauaʻi

    Kauaʻi’s Top Experiences

    Need to Know

    What’s New

    Accommodations

    Getting Around Kauaʻi

    Month by Month

    Itineraries

    Eat & Drink Like a Local

    On the Water

    Diving & Snorkeling

    Surfing

    On the Land

    Hiking & Biking

    Green Kauaʻi

    Kauaʻi by Air

    Family Travel

    Regions at a Glance

    On The Road

    LIHUʻE

    History

    Sights

    Activities

    Hiking Around Lihu‘e

    Tours

    Festivals & Events

    Sleeping

    Eating

    Drinking & Nightlife

    Entertainment

    Shopping

    KAPAʻA & THE EASTSIDE

    Hiking, Cycling & Kayaking in Eastern Kauaʻi

    Wailua

    Waipouli

    Kapaʻa

    Anahola

    Koʻolau Road

    HANALEI & THE NORTH SHORE

    Hiking on the North Shore

    Road Trip > Kuhio Highway

    History

    Kilauea

    ʻAnini

    Princeville

    Hanalei

    Wainiha

    Haʻena

    Haʻena State Park

    Na Pali Coast Wilderness State Park

    POʻIPU & THE SOUTH SHORE

    Hiking & Cycling on the South Shore

    Road Trip > South Shore Driving Tour

    Koloa

    History

    Poʻipu

    Kalaheo

    WAIMEA CANYON & THE WESTSIDE

    Hiking in Western Kaua‘i

    Road Trip > Waimea Canyon Drive

    Port Allen & Around

    Hanapepe

    Waimea

    Kekaha

    Waimea Canyon State Park

    Kokeʻe State Park

    UNDERSTAND

    Understand Kaua‘i

    History

    People of Kaua‘i

    Hawaiian Arts & Crafts

    Lei

    Landscapes & Wildlife

    SURVIVAL GUIDE

    Directory A–Z

    Accessible Travel

    Customs Regulations

    Discount Cards

    Climate

    Electricity

    Food & Drink

    Health

    Insurance

    Internet Access

    Laundry

    Legal Matters

    LGBTQ+ Travelers

    Maps

    Money

    Opening Hours

    Post

    Public Holidays

    Safe Travel

    Telephone

    Time

    Tourist Information

    Visas

    Volunteering

    Work

    Transportation

    Getting There & Away

    Air

    Sea

    Getting Around

    Bicycle

    Bus

    Car & Motorcycle

    Hitchhiking & Ride-Sharing

    Taxi

    Behind the Scenes

    Our Writers

    COVID-19

    We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

    Welcome to Kauaʻi

    I always love arriving at one of the world’s most laid-back airports – an island-enforced transition to a state of unhurried relaxation. Picking up super-fresh poke at a local market or chatting with easygoing food-truck owners only magnifies my serene vibe, and I’m soon ready to jump into active adventures exploring Kauaʻi’s improbably scenic landscapes. Salty spray enlivens catamaran trips along the Na Pali Coast, while the island’s heritage and rugged interior combine on a tubing trip on historic irrigation channels. Sunset beers and pau hana happy hour snacks reinvigorate me for another supremely relaxing itinerary the following day.

    shutterstockRF_398782045-jpg

    Na Pali Coast Wilderness State Park | MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    By Brett Atkinson, Writer

    brett-atkinson-2012-coljpg

    twitterpng @travelwriternz instagrampng travelwriternz

    For more about our writers

    Kauaʻi’s Top 8

    1HIKING IN PARADISE

    Kauaʻi’s versatile Pacific trails meander through lush mountains and fertile valleys or plummet deep into a red-rock canyon. View-friendly trails take in clifftop vistas from remote and roadless coastlines, while other routes through primordial forests feature the natural surprise of spectacular waterfalls. Hiking opportunities include shorter routes that will have you back in time for a sunset cocktail, or the overnight adventure of a two-day hike.

    shutterstockRF_605074205-jpg

    Hanakapiʻai Falls | FOMINAYAPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Kalalau Trail

    Kauaʻi’s most popular trail traverses the unforgettable Na Pali Coast. Grab an early start from the cafes of Hanalei to kick off the 22-mile two-day round trip at Ke̒e Beach. Look forward to remote beaches, the spectacular Hanakapi̒ai Falls, and the vertiginous lava rock cliffs of the Kalalau Valley.

    shutterstockRF_184555649-jpg

    Kalalau Trail | PAVEL TVRDY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Mahaʻulepu Heritage Trail

    This trail segues from the popular beaches of Poʻipu to a far wilder stretch of coast, full of secluded coves, snorkeling reefs, blowholes and sea cliffs. Experienced South Shore surfers and kitesurfers carve the shallow reef break offshore.

    Staff-AH_0423-jpg

    Maha‘ulepu Heritage Trail | ALEXANDER HOWARD/LONELY PLANET ©

    Kuilau Ridge & Moalepe Trails

    A wonderful exploration of Wailua’s fertile highlands, the highlights of this scenic and beautiful trail include moss-cloaked glades, tropical ferns, and keyhole views onto Mt Waiʻaleʻale.

    GettyImages-148884533-jpg

    Bridge between Kailua and Moalepe trails | MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Top Experiences

    2BEACHES FOR ALL

    When it comes to finding that ideal stretch of sand, Kauaʻi offers an embarrassment of riches. Whether you crave the rugged and all-natural, or something more easygoing and family-friendly, the island is a spectacular example of the paradox of choice. Thankfully, with time and judicious planning, you can explore many of Kauaʻi’s best. Relaxing, bodyboarding, or the underrated art of beachcombing all await.

    LPT0316_059-jpg

    Hanakapiʻai Falls | MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

    Lydgate Beach Park

    A fun-filled playground for the kids, plus bathrooms, lifeguards, and two safe pools protected by a breakwater make Lydgate Beach a great option for families.

    Hanalei Bay

    Kauaʻi’s preeminent horseshoe bay is the ultimate destination for many travelers, and the global gods of surfing built their reputations on its half-dozen surf breaks. The beach superbly combines a wide sweep of white sand with jade mountain views.

    shutterstockRF_538449664-jpg

    Hanalei Bay | CHASE CLAUSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Polihale Beach

    Ancient Hawaiians thought Polihale was a spiritual beach, and nothing has changed. Sprawled at the base of the Na Pali cliffs, this is the perfect spot to relax and reflect after a lengthy hike or a busy trip. Suitably, it’s at the end of a long, bumpy dirt road.

    GettyImages-530889961-jpg

    Polihale Beach | NSTANEV/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Top Experiences

    3WATERBORNE ISLAND FUN

    You’ve explored the land, you’ve chilled on the beach, now it’s time to get your aquatic adventure on. From boating to paddling, diving to surfing, Kauaʻi offers a multitude of ways to get wet and be happy. And as it’s such a compact island, it’s very practical to schedule a week of exciting adventures at diverse locations.

    River kayaking

    An essential Kauaʻi’ experience is paddling up the sacred Wailua River to secret waterfalls. Getting away in the quiet of early morning is the perfect way to start.

    GettyRF_530274074-jpg

    Kayaking, Wailua River | MICHAEL RUNKEL/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Surfing

    Kaua̒i is a great place to learn how to surf, especially on the more sheltered breaks of the South Shore. Small group sizes and free practice time make Poʻipu a good choice.

    GettyRF_472155748-jpg

    Going surfing | FATCAMERA/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Sea kayaking

    For experienced kayakers, the 12-hour, 17-mile paddle along the Na Pali Coast is a scenic blast of mind-boggling beauty. Beginners can learn to paddle on the more benign waters around Poʻipu.

    GettyImages-115571266-jpg

    Sea kayaking, Na Pali Coast | TEDJOHNJACOBS/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Top Experiences

    4NO ONE’S GOING HUNGRY

    You’re sure to be eating local on Kauaʻi, an island with dozens of organic farms, grass-fed beef aplenty and a fishing fleet plying the waters offshore. Establishments across the island range from affordable and convenient food trucks to restaurants that pamper and plate with elegance. Factor in local coffee roasters, Kauaʻi’s very own kombucha and craft beer, and freshly squeezed juices for the ultimate in ongoing island sustenance.

    shutterstockRF_273537182-jpg

    Poke bowl (cubed raw fish mixed with shōyu, sesame oil, salt, chili pepper, ʻinamona or other condiments; Cliquez ici) | EQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    The freshest of seafood

    Poke, sushi and sashimi are all delicious staples on Kauaʻi. The in-store kitchen at Makai Sushi serves up some of the finest, and spiciest, poke on the island

    A diverse culinary menu

    Asian culinary influences fuse with traditional Hawaiian food around the island. The brilliant flavors at Saimin Dojo reflect the island’s social jigsaw.

    Farmers’ market bounty

    Self-catering is easy with the freshest of seasonal produce. Stock up at popular events like Saturday morning’s Kauaʻi Community Market.

    Top Experiences

    5ART & DESIGN

    Kauaʻi has plenty of art galleries and stores with all manner of collectibles. Surprises to discover include 1950s Japanese fishing buoys, heritage maps from all around the Pacific, and contemporary photography. Modern sculpture, oil paintings and carved woodwork all reinforce diverse and contrasting styles, while a new breed of artisan makers are repurposing and reinventing amid compact workshops.

    Warehouse 3540

    This converted warehouse has an eclectic array of out-of-the-ordinary arts and crafts stores – interesting clothing, jewelry and stationery all feature along with a tasty park-up of food trucks.

    shutterstock_1611798781-jpg

    Food truck, Warehouse 3540 | CHARLES LEWIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Browsing in Hanalei

    Head north to Hanalei for interesting shopping, including retro surprises at the Yellowfish Trading Company and stunning collectibles from around Asia and the Pacific.

    shutterstock_603272504-jpg

    Hanalei | JEFF WHYTE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Hanapepe’s Art Night

    Every Friday night, the heritage town of Hanapepe keeps its shops and art galleries open late. There’s also the added attraction of the best book store on the island.

    GettyImages-526232194-jpg

    Talk Story Bookstore | FRANCIS DEAN/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Top Experiences

    6ACTIVE ADVENTURES

    Discover Kauaʻi’s landscapes on a variety of action-packed adventures. Local guides are easygoing but professional, and always equipped with an entertaining sense of humor. It’s a great way to discover the island’s rugged hinterland, and most of the activities are also ideal for adventurous traveling families. You may also learn about the island’s history of movie-making along the way.

    Kipu Ranch Adventures

    Drive an ATV around the ranch from Jurassic Park and learn about other Hollywood blockbusters filmed on the island. If it’s been raining, the slippin’ and slidin’ action on red dirt tracks is even more fun.

    GettyImages-148693717-jpg

    Quad biking, Kipu Ranch Adventures | MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Ke Ala Hele Makalae

    Rent a mountain bike, tandem or beach cruiser to negotiate this shared-use path along the island’s east coast. Kapa̒a’s cafes are a great post-ride treat.

    shutterstock_1726131745-jpg

    Paliku (Donkey) Beach, Ke Ala Hele Makalae Trail | EVERETT ATLAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Kauaʻi Backcountry Adventures

    Drift in an inner tube through tunnels and former irrigation channels amid the forested mountains inland from Lihu̒e. Look forward to a combination of gentle thrills and easygoing relaxation.

    Top Experiences

    7SPELLBOUND BY SPECTACLE

    From the soaring pinnacles and waterfall-adorned valleys of the Na Pali Coast to the red-dirt depths of the Waimea Canyon, Kauaʻi’s reputation as just maybe Hawaii’s most spectacular island is gloriously intact. Opportunities to experience what makes the archipelago’s oldest island so special include catamaran sailing trips, sightseeing by helicopter, or negotiating a Jeep through the twists and turns of a landscape dubbed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.

    Sky-high waterfall views

    There’s nothing like seeing Kauaʻi by air. Twisting through tropical valleys, landing at remote waterfalls, and soaring over the stunning coastline are all possible.

    LPT0316_019-jpg

    Walua Falls | MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

    Cruising the coast

    The Na Pali Coast rises out of the sea with its knife-edge pinnacles and alluring valleys. For a spectacular view, board a comfortable catamaran. A refreshing mai tai is always included.

    GettyImages-176567845-jpg

    Cruise along Na Pali Coast | MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

    Hit the Road

    The island’s signature scenic drive is a long ascent that takes you from one end of Waimea Canyon to another. En route, stretch your legs on a number of spectacular short hikes.

    LPT0316_024-jpg

    Waip’o Falls | MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

    Top Experiences

    8FESTIVALS & CULTURE

    The people of Kauaʻi love a good festival, and attending one is a great way to learn about traditional Hawaiian culture. There’s usually a decent array of good-value food stalls serving up ono grindz (local food), so it’s a good way to score a well-priced and authentic lunch or dinner. Most festivals run through spring and summer, and popular events focus on traditional music, dance and games.

    shutterstockRF_116405116-jpg

    Hula performance | BOYKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Festival

    The Hawaiian musical style of slack key guitar (ki hoʻalu) is performed by masters at this free annual event. The music’s creative tunings were traditionally secrets only known to extended family.

    Koloa Plantation Days

    A paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) rodeo, traditional Hawaiian games, and Polynesian dancing all reinforce the island’s culture and history at this annual family-friendly South Shore festival.

    Hula Competition

    The three-day Kauaʻi Mokihana Festival Hula Competition provides the opportunity to see dancers perform authentic and traditional routines beyond the sometimes touristy confines of a luau.

    Need to Know

    For more information, see Survival Guide

    Currency

    US dollar ($)

    Language

    English, Hawaiian

    Visas

    Rules for entry to the US keep changing. Confirm current visa and passport requirements for your country at the US Department of State website (www.travel.state.gov).

    Money

    ATMs are available in all major towns. Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted. American Express and Discover are hit or miss.

    Cell Phones

    Cell reception is good except in remote locations. All multi-band GSM phones will work in the US.

    Time

    Hawaiian Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus 10 hours)

    When to Go

    03-climate-kau4

    High Season (Jun–Sep)

    A Accommodations prices are the year’s highest.

    A Beaches are busy with visiting families.

    A North Shore seas are calm and good for swimming.

    Shoulder (Dec–Mar)

    A Winter surf conditions are way up on the North Shore and Westside.

    A Whales arrive and are visible from the land and sea.

    A Prices are highest around the annual holidays.

    Low Season (Apr–May, Oct–Nov)

    A Visitor numbers and accommodations prices are lower.

    A Festivals abound across the island, with popular music festivals in November.

    A Beaches are less crowded, even though the weather is often perfect.

    Useful Websites

    Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/hawaii/kauai) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

    Kauaʻi Surfrider (https://kauai.surfrider.org) Insights on the state of Kauaʻi’s waters and the chance to volunteer with local riders to clean up beaches.

    The Garden Island (www.thegardenisland.com) Good coverage of local events and island-specific issues and current affairs.

    Kauaʻi Explorer (www.kauaiexplorer.com) Great site for ocean reports, trail information and beach tips.

    County of Kauaʻi (www.kauai.gov/visitors) Information on buses, camping, hiking, public safety and links to products uniquely made on the island (www.kauaimade.net).

    Important Numbers

    Hawaii’s area code ( icon-phonegif %808) is optional for local calls and compulsory when calling between islands. Dial icon-phonegif %1 before toll-free or long-distance calls, including to Canada (for which international rates apply).

    Exchange Rates

    For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

    Daily Costs

    Budget: Less than $200

    A B&B or inn within a town: $100–125

    A Grocery shopping and farmers markets: $30–40

    A Kauaʻi Bus: $4–8

    Midrange: $200–350

    A Hotel room, condo or B&B: $125–300

    A Meals at midrange restaurants: $40–50

    A Rental car: $50–60

    Top End: More than $350

    A Hotel, resort or vacation rental: from $300

    A Fine dining with three-course meals: from $50

    A Diving, golf, spa, helicopter tour, sunset cruises: from $200

    A Rental car: $50–60

    Opening Hours

    Banks 8:30am–4pm Monday to Friday, some to 6pm Friday, and 9am–noon or 1pm Saturday

    Bars & Clubs To midnight daily, some to 2am Thursday to Saturday

    Businesses 8:30am–4:30pm Monday to Friday, some post offices 9am–noon Saturday

    Restaurants Breakfast 6–10am, lunch 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner 5–9:30pm

    Shops 9am–5pm Monday to Saturday, some also noon–5pm Sunday

    Arriving in Kauaʻi

    Lihuʻe Airport Almost all visitors to Kauaʻi rent cars from car-rental companies located at the airport.

    Taxis can be found curbside outside the baggage-claim area during the day but can be expensive; book ahead if arriving at night.

    In almost all cases, you are better off renting a car. Average taxi fares are $15 to Lihuʻe, $30 to Kapaʻa, $50–60 to Poʻipu and $100–125 to Princeville.

    Uber is available in Kauaʻi, but there the number of drivers is very limited. For families or groups, it may be more economical to book an airport shuttle with Speedi Shuttle.

    Kauaʻi Bus makes limited runs from 6am–8pm from the airport to Lihuʻe and west to Kalaheo, Waimea and Hanapepe ($2).

    Language & Etiquette

    The island’s locals are a laid-back and friendly bunch and appreciate the use of a few common phrases.

    Aloha! Literally translates to ‘love,’ but used for ‘hello,’ ‘welcome’ and ‘goodbye.’

    Mahalo! ‘Thank you’ – can be used to show gratitude one-on-one, for example, ‘Mahalo for the delicious food,’ but also with groups: ‘A big mahalo to all of the guides today.’

    For information on getting around

    What’s New

    There are many exciting new reasons to visit Kauaʻi. The island’s flavor-packed food scene is growing in diversity, art and design stores are showcasing an increased focus on local influences, and the North Shore’s new parking-permit system has ensured that one of Kauaʻi’s best beaches is protected from overcrowding.

    Haʻena State Park Permits

    Closed following heavy rain and devastat-ing floods on the island’s North Shore in April 2018, Haʻena State Park was reopened in June 2019. A parking permit system – limited to 900 visitors per day – has now been introduced. Available up to one month in advance, the permits are often booked up as soon as they come online at www.gohaena.com, but the new system does mean visitor numbers at glorious Keʻe Beach are now limited.

    LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

    WHAT’S HAPPENING IN KAUAʻI

    Brett Atkinson, Lonely Planet writer

    Chat with another friendly customer at one of Kauaʻi’s juice shacks, beaches or poke spots, and eventually the conversation will turn to how the island is changing. That morning and afternoon tangle of Eastside traffic wasn’t on their minds when they decamped here a decade ago, and they’ll definitely have an opinion on how big land purchases by billionaire island-fans like Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg are impacting on access to the land and beaches.

    They’re probably juggling a few gigs – perhaps balancing painting or sculpture with working on an organic ginger and turmeric farm – and also considering renting a spare room on Airbnb. Housing’s getting pretty expensive on the island, you see, and they definitely understand why the number of homeless people on Kauaʻi is increasing. Visitors are still welcome though, and just before your ginseng-infused acai bowl arrives, they’ll be enthusiastically telling you all about that great new Sri Lankan food truck up at Hanalei.

    New Tours & Experiences

    Exploring beyond the island’s stunning beaches and scenery, new tours by Tasting Kaua̒i visit farmers markets, food trucks, restaurants and small-scale producers all around the island. Expect a strong focus on local and sustainable food experiences, such as the ‘Jam Tasting Room’ at Monkeypod Jam. Another new experience is Kauai Safaris combination of rum tasting and a 4WD tour around Kilohana Plantation. And if you prefer four legs to 4WD, try spending an afternoon exploring with one of the shelter dogs from the Kauai Humane Society near Lihuʻe.

    Marketplace Makeover

    The Eastside’s Coconut Marketplace reopened in 2019 after the completion of a multi-year renovation, and soon became the new home of some well-established restaurants. Nom Kauai specializes in gourmet spins on burgers and waffles, while Sushi Bushido is an energetic fusion eatery. Other marketplace highlights include regular hula shows and live music (Cliquez ici), and a twice-weekly farmers market. Future plans include Munchology, a lounge and eatery specializing in shared plates, to be opened by the switched-on owners of Nom Kauai.

    Stylish Shopping

    Don’t worry, Baby Shark toddler onesies, Barack Obama dashboard dolls and Kauaʻi red-dirt T-shirts are all still available, but the island’s shopping scene also includes hip havens selling interesting locally made art and design. The funky lineup at Warehouse 3540 at Lawaʻi on the South Shore features fashion, jewelry and handmade stationery, while Blü Umi in Hanapepe offers apparel and cool retro graphic prints.

    Food Trucks to Follow

    A tasty and inexpensive option for dining around the island, a number of new food trucks have recently opened to complement old favorites like Al Pastor and Scorpacciata. Check out Kickshaws at Warehouse 3540 in Lawaʻi for upscale takes on comfort food like mac n’ cheese or tuna melts, followed by a dessert of organic artisan shave ice from nearby Fresh Shave. For super-fresh seafood, head north to Hanalei Poke, or east to Lihuʻe for Kikuchi’s ahi (yellowfin tuna) wraps.

    New Restaurants

    Local, sustainable and fusion flavors all feature in the island’s parade of recent restaurant openings. Saimin Dojo on the Eastside combines Hawaiian, Japanese and Korean flavors, while Ama in Hanalei is a similarly well-priced spot for Asian-inspired noodles and soups. Kauaʻi Ono in Princeville offers five-course alfresco gourmet feasts featuring the freshest produce from Kauaʻi’s farms, while Kiawe Roots barbecue restaurant in Poʻipu is one of the island’s best-value eateries. For great baking, there’s Midnight Bear Breads in Hanapepe.

    Accommodations Options

    There are two new standout places to stay on the island, for travelers at opposite ends of the vacation-budget spectrum. Timbers Kauai Ocean Club & Residences near Lihuʻe is the island’s newest and most luxurious resort, with its clifftop location including a spectacular infinity pool. Local and sustainable ingredients underpin the menu at the resort’s Hualani’s restaurant. Considerably cheaper, and definitely more mobile, are the 4WD expedition vehicles – including rooftop tents and compact kitchens – available to hire from Kauai Overlander.

    LISTEN, WATCH AND FOLLOW

    For inspiration, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/hawaii/articles.

    twitter.com/ForKauaiMag Regularly updated Twitter feed of the For Kauaʻi online publication.

    Insta @kauaidiscovery official Instagram page for the Kauai Visitors Bureau.

    Facebook www.facebook.com/KauaiVisitorsBureau A good place to see which island events are scheduled during your visit.

    Tasting Kauaʻi (www.tastingkauai.com/blog) Occasional updates on the island’s food and dining scene from Kauaʻi’s best food-tour company.

    FAST FACTS

    Food trend Island-grown and sustainable.

    Movies & TV series filmed in Kauaʻi More than 70 (and counting).

    Home ownership 63% of Kauaʻi residents own their own home.

    Pop 71,780

    kauai-infographic_red

    Drinking in Eastside Views

    Until recently it wasn’t really an option to combine pau hana (happy hour) cocktails with oceanfront Eastside views, but a couple of new bars have changed that. The Lava Lava Beach Club at Wailua’s Kauai Shores hotel is a true sand-between-the-toes experience, while just down the coast at the Hilton Garden Inn, Mamahune’s Tiki Bar combines bay vistas with a wonderfully fake mini-volcano.

    Accommodations

    Find more accommodations reviews throughout the On the Road chapters

    Accommodations Types

    Vacation Rentals Stand-alone vacation homes to rent range from simple plantation-style cottages to spacious five-bedroom affairs.

    Condos Located in larger, multiunit complexes but still featuring full kitchens and other facilities like laundries and pools. A good option for families.

    Resorts & Hotels Range from hotel-style bedrooms to self-contained apartments. More on-site facilities, including pools, bars, restaurants, spas and kids’ clubs.

    B&Bs Surprisingly underrepresented on Kauaʻi. Home-style accommodations in a private room with breakfast provided.

    Hostels Focused on a younger budget-conscious market with cheaper rooms and dorms, often with shared bathroom facilities.

    Cabins Basic forest cabins are available in Kokeʻe State Park.

    Campgrounds Both state and county campgrounds are available and must be booked in advance. Locations include Na Pali Coast Wilderness State Park, Kokeʻe State Park and various county beach parks around the island. Note that some of these parks are regularly frequented by the island’s homeless population.

    PRICE RANGES

    The following price ranges refer to a high-season, double-occupancy room with private bathroom but no breakfast, unless otherwise specified. Rates do not include the 13.41% accommodations tax.

    $ less than $150

    $$ $150–250

    $$$ more than $250

    Best Places to Stay

    Best on a Budget

    Budget accommodations are relatively limited in Kauaʻi, but worthwhile options include lodging on an orchard, a well-kept motel and rustic forest lodges. Private rooms listed on Airbnb are also often well priced.

    A Green Acres Cottages , Kilauea

    A Coco’s Kauaʻi , Waimea

    A Rosewood Kauaʻi , Wailua

    A Kokeʻe State Park Cabins , Kokeʻe State Park

    Best for Families

    Scattered around the island are some excellent options for families. Self-catering and stocking up at farmers markets is the recommended option – all of the following have well-equipped kitchens, and in most cases outdoor barbecues as well. Wailua and Poʻipu are conveniently located for access to good beaches and excursions.

    A Fern Grotto Inn , Wailua

    A Nihilani , Princeville

    A Kiahuna Plantation Resort Kauaʻi by Outrigger , Poʻipu

    A River Estate , Wainiha

    Best Hotels & Resorts

    On Kaua̒i, many bigger hotels and resorts also offer spas, water parks, multiple restaurants and children’s programs. On-site amenities could also include a golf course, beachfront barbecues and lazy days hammocks. Many Kaua̒i properties offer beachfront views, but swimming in their manicured and often extravagant pool complexes is usually preferable to the ocean.

    A Timbers Kauai Ocean Club & Residences , Lihuʻe

    A Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa , Poʻipu

    A Hanalei Colony Resort , Haʻena

    A Hotel Coral Reef , Kapaʻa

    A Waimea Plantation Cottages , Waimea

    Best Vacation Rentals

    Vacation rentals are the best option to fully transition into an island-vacation frame of mind. Smaller properties, often a stand-alone house or a scattering of cottages, reinforce a local vibe, and there are usually lush gardens to relax and recharge in. Amenities include kitchens for self-catering.

    A 17 Palms , Wailua

    A Hanalei Dolphin Cottages , Hanalei

    A Hanalei Surfboard House , Hanalei

    A Kauai Paradise House , Wainiha

    A Anini Lani Kai , ʻAnini

    shutterstock_1641019936-jpg

    Timbers Kauai Ocean Club & Residences | CLAUDINE VAN MASSENHOVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

    Booking

    Be sure to book Kauaʻi accommodations well in advance, especially during the peak season of June to September. A good time to come is from April to May or October to March, when beaches are quieter, the weather is often excellent and many festivals take place.

    Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/hotels) Find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay – and then book them online.

    Kauaʻi Vacation Rentals (www.kauaivacationrentals.com) Condo-rental listings across the island.

    Garden Island Properties (www.kauaiproperties.com) A locally owned, island-wide rental agency with affordable condos and houses for rent.

    Parrish Collection Kauaʻi (www.parrishkauai.com) Good collection of house and condo rentals.

    Poʻipu Beach Resort Association (www.poipubeach.org/places-to-stay/condominium-resorts) Overview of South Shore rental options.

    Where to Stay

    A Lihuʻe Most skip this commercial hub and head to the North or South Shore.

    A Kapaʻa & the Eastside Anahola and Kapaʻa have some nice places, fun beach scenes and good snorkeling, but it lacks the drama of the scenery further north. Good restaurants are a plus.

    A Hanalei Bay & the North Shore It rains more up north, but it’s also more verdant. The areas around Hanalei are the accommodations center.

    A Poʻipu & the South Shore The beaches are gorgeous, and you’ll get way more sun than up north, as the area around Poʻipu is the driest on Kauaʻi.

    A Waimea Canyon & the Westside There are a few good beach houses and inns in towns like Waimea and Kekaha. There are fewer restaurants, practically no nightlife and a cool zen quiet here that may just be perfect.

    Getting Around Kauaʻi

    For more information, see Transportation

    How to Get Around

    Car Rental Recommended, unless on a very tight budget. Well-maintained highway provides access to most of the island. Free parking widely available.

    Bus Goes through all major towns; limited runs, especially on weekends.

    Taxi Flag-fall fee is $3.50, plus 35¢ per additional 0.1 miles or up to 45 seconds of waiting. Plan on calling for a taxi.

    Resort Shuttle Complimentary; run regularly within most major resort areas.

    Bike Good option if staying in one town. In general, if on the Eastside or North Shore expect some rain.

    Traveling by Car

    A Renting a car often costs more on Kauaʻi than on the other major Hawaiian Islands. Normally, a rock-bottom economy car from a major rental company will cost you around $250 per week, with rates doubling during the peak periods. Rental rates will generally include unlimited mileage.

    A To minimize costs, comparison shop; differences of 50% between suppliers are not unheard of.

    A Cars are sometimes prohibited by contract from traveling on dirt roads. That said, most roads are passable by regular car, if you go slow.

    A Another strategy for cost saving is to use a local rental agency. These mom-and-pop firms, which generally operate from home, rent used vehicles that may be 10 years old, but can be had for around $25 per day.

    A For motorcycle rentals, the go-to place is Kauaʻi Harley-Davidson , which has a 20-bike fleet in Puhi, just outside Lihuʻe. For smaller scooters and mopeds contact Kauai Mopeds ( icon-phonegif % 808-652-7407; www.kauai-mopeds.com ; per day from $90) .

    A Rates for 4WD vehicles average $70 to $100 per day (before taxes and fees). Agencies prohibit driving off-road; if you get stuck they’ll slap a penalty on you.

    RESOURCES

    American Automobile Association (AAA; icon-phonegif %808-593-2221, from Neighbor Islands 800-736-2886; www.hawaii.aaa.com; 1130 N Nimitz Hwy, Honolulu; icon-hoursgif h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Provides 24-hour emergency roadside assistance, free maps and discounts on car rentals and accommodations. AAA has reciprocal agreements with automobile associations in other countries, so bring your membership card from home. The Hawaii office is in Honolulu.

    Department of Transportation (https://hidot.hawaii.gov/highways/roadwork/kauai) Updates on traffic conditions and roadworks around the island.

    GuideofUS Hawaii (www.hawaii-guide.com/kauai/kauai-driving-times) Estimates on how long trips around the island could take. Note that morning and afternoon rush-hour traffic on the Eastside will impact on these estimates.

    No Car?

    Bus

    The county’s Kauaʻi Bus stops approximately hourly on weekdays in towns along major highways, with limited services on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. Routes run islandwide, but don’t reach the Na Pali Coast Wilderness, Waimea Canyon or Kokeʻe State Parks. Schedules are available online. Check the website for where to buy monthly passes ($40).

    Buses are air-conditioned and equipped with bicycle racks and wheelchair ramps. A few caveats: drivers don’t give change; surfboards (except for boogie boards), oversized backpacks and luggage aren’t allowed on board; stops are marked but might be hard to spot; and schedules do not include a map.

    DRIVING FAST FACTS

    A Drive on the right.

    A All vehicle occupants must wear a seatbelt.

    A The maximum speed limit is 50mph (25mph in built-up areas).

    A The minimum age for a full license is 18 years.

    A Blood alcohol limit of 80mg per 100mL (0.08%) for drivers 21 years and older.

    distance-chart-kau4-4c-jpg06-getting-around-kau4-jpg

    Bicycle

    Cycling all the way around the island isn’t much fun, due to heavy traffic and narrow road shoulders. But it’s a convenient way of getting around beach resorts, and the Eastside has a recreational paved bicycle path running through Kapaʻa. The best bike ride on the island is down the winding road of Waimea Canyon.

    Bicycles can be rented in Waipouli, Kapaʻa, Poʻipu and Hanalei. Tourist resort areas and specialty bicycle shops rent beach cruisers, hybrid models and occasionally high-end road and mountain bikes. Rental rates average $25 to $40 per day (easily double that for high-tech road or mountain bikes).

    Generally, bicycles are required to follow the same rules of the road as cars. Bicycles are prohibited on freeways and sidewalks. State law requires all cyclists under the age of 16 to wear helmets. For more bicycling information, including downloadable cycling maps, search the website of the Hawaii Department of Transportation (http://hidot.hawaii.gov/highways).

    Kuhio Highway This road trip on the island’s North Shore begins at the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and travels for 15 miles via Princeville and Hanalei to Haʻena State Park and Keʻe Beach. To park at Haʻena State Park, apply for a parking permit up to a month in advance.

    South Shore Driving Tour Excellent beaches, good eating and drinking, and the heritage plantation architecture of Old Koloa Town are all highlights on this meandering 30.7-mile exploration of the island’s South Shore. Along the way, book for a guided tour of the National Tropical Botanical Garden.

    Waimea Canyon Drive This most spectacular drive on the island follows the entire length of Waimea Canyon into Kokeʻe State Park, ascending 19 miles from the coast to Puʻu o Kila Lookout. Stop at scenic lookouts and take short hikes along the way for the quintessential Kauaʻi driving adventure.

    Month by Month

    TOP EVENTS

    Waimea Town Celebration, February

    Prince Kuhio Celebration, March

    Koloa Plantation Days, July

    Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Festival, November

    Kalo Festival, December

    January

    As the mercury dips a bit and the holidays float into the rearview, Kauaʻi experiences a mild tourist exodus and hotel prices drop, even as humpback whales continue to dazzle.

    z Art Night in Hanapepe

    Hanapepe’s deservedly popular weekly Art Night is held every Friday of the year. Galleries and shops keep their doors open late, food vendors descend and there is music in the air. It’s the best time and place to experience this historic little town.

    3 Kapaʻa Art Walk

    On the first Saturday of every month from 5pm to 8pm, Old Town Kapaʻa celebrates and showcases island artists and artisans during the Kapaʻa Art Walk. Expect live music, food trucks and a block-party atmosphere.

    z Princeville Night Market

    The first monthly Princeville Night Market offers original art and handicrafts, tasty snacks, locally roasted coffee and live music. It’s held on the second Sunday of every

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