That this tasting elicited more than 160 samples should have come as no surprise, given the UK’s affinity and penchant for red Bordeaux. It’s a relationship that has been going strong for more than 800 years, starting with the union of Eleanor, Duchess of Aquitaine and Henry Plantagenet, who became King of England just two years later.
Despite a decrease in terms of import volume for Bordeaux wine in the UK (down 19% in 2021 due to various issues relating to, but not exclusive to, Brexit, Covid-19 and recent vintage volumes), it has seen an increase of 31% in terms of value, according to the annual report compiled by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux. Wine lovers may be drinking less, but they’re drinking better.
Bordeaux remains the leader in French exports of AP wines to the UK, representing 20% of the volume and 37% of the value in 2021 (CIVB). In short, Bordeaux is important and very many of us seem to enjoy drinking it. But faced with such an array of bottles on supermarket and merchant shelves, how does one choose? Appellation and stylistic preferences are important, clearly, vintage quality and renown also; but price remains a key motivating factor in consumer purchasing decisions.
Given the breadth of this category, the interest from Decanter readers, and the current economic climate, for this tasting we set the criteria as follows: i) any bottle of the most recent, or widely available vintage; ii) one bottle per producer; iii) must be priced at £20 retail or below.
PLENTY TO ENJOY
Wines were blind tasted in Decanter’s tasting suite in west London. The turnout was astonishing: not only was there a representative spread of regions, but also vintages and price points, with the cheapest wine entered at £6.99.
The final list counted 23 appellations, including Blaye, Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, St-Emilion (including grand cru), Fronsac, Graves, Pessac-Léognan and St-Estèphe, as well as the generic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur categories,
VALUE BORDEAUX
Scores in total from 163 wines
93pts 5 92pts 17 91pts 30 90pts 32 89pts 29 88pts 87pts 86pts