Open for: Lunch and dinner

Price range: $$

Outside the historic center, Da Burde is one of the city’s finest family-run institutions for traditional Florentine food. The trattoria has an atmosphere that’s both old-world wine bar and homey banquet, where sincere family recipes are earnestly prepared from scratch. The trek to Da Burde is worth it for diners in search for true Florentine relics, passed-down specialties like minestrone, meatballs, chickpea farinata, and grilled meats.

Best for: Serious wine lovers willing to drop big money, who should ask to pick out a wine from the cellar.

Open for: Dinner 

Price range: $

The Florentine culinary repertoire historically excludes pizza, but the city is still a magnet for exceptional pizza-makers. If you’re craving a well-crafted pie, look no further than Santarpia, which combines new-wave creativity with traditional heart. Pizza chef Giovanni Santarpia hails from Campania and has spent years earning feathers as one of the best pizzaioli in the country. He’s obsessed with dough and ingredient quality, fermentation, and warm hospitality. The craft beer selection is top-notch as well. Santarpia is outside the historic center of town, but worth the detour.

Know before you go: Pick a pie featuring golden Piennolo tomatoes.

Open for: Dinner

Price range: $$$

Cucina is the work of two architects turned cooks (Simonetta Fiamminghi and Giuseppe Bartolini) who teamed up with two bookshop owners (Maddalena Fossombroni and Pietro Torrigiani) to serve vibrant, seasonal takes on traditional dishes sprinkled with global flavors. The menu impresses with fresh seafood from Sardinia and the Tuscan coast, baked Tuscan cabbage spiced with cumin and glazed with chestnut honey, lasagna with duck and apricots, paprika-sprinkled butcher sausages with sweet and sour peppered figs piled on sourdough slices, almondy cheesecake with bitter Sicilian orange, and a concise list of natural wines.

Vibe check: The cozy dining space, with a Scandinavian sense of design, is tucked away in a tree-lined residential enclave far from the chaos of the city center.

Open for: Lunch and dinner 

Price range: $$$

You could throw a rock in any direction and hit a good restaurant in Florence, but it’s a little harder to hit a place with remarkable wine offerings too. Il Guscio has been around since 1986 and has a menu that takes homestyle Tuscan and Italian classics to gourmet status, like gnudi dumplings made with scamorza and spinach pesto, or Maldon-salted sliced sirloin with julienned vegetables. The wine list is heavy on Tuscan wines balanced with an ample selection from around the country and abroad. Portions are hearty, so make sure you order to share, and save room for dessert, which is very much on point.

Must-try dish: If you’re a fan of ‘nduja, split a plate of the paccheri if it’s on the menu.

Open for: Lunch and dinner 

Price range: $$

Ruggero is described by locals as a tuffo nel passato (blast from the past). The time capsule trattoria hasn’t updated its decor since the ’70s, but the affordable local fare has held up. Come for quality options such as pici pasta, roast pork, tender filetto (tenderloin), and seasonal sides (porcini, zucchini flowers, artichokes). The calling card primo dish is spaghetti alla carrettiera, a dense red sauce preparation with a kick of chile, anchovies, breadcrumbs, and herbs. Ruggero isn’t quite in the historic center, but it’s worth the walk past the Porta Romana.

Must-try dish: The chicken liver crostini set the benchmark.

Open for: Lunch and dinner 

Price range: $$

Florence isn’t the ideal destination for seafood lovers, but this is a gem worth seeking out. There isn’t one thing this seafood eatery doesn’t do well: risotto, luscious Sicilian gambero rosso shrimp pastas, tender grilled octopus, and seasonal catches of the day sourced locally and from regional Italian seafood bastions such as Sardinia. Service is hit-or-miss, but the quality of dishes and the location, hidden from tourist droves, more than make up for it. The wine selection is decent too.

Vibe check: The inside is kind of dark, so sit outside if weather permits.

Open for: All day 

Price range: $

Ask any Florentine who truly enjoys schiacciata (Tuscany’s take on focaccia) for a rec and they’ll likely send you to Becagli with a note of nostalgia in their voice. The plain schiacciata is speckled with a healthy dusting of coarse salt and dimpled with wells of olive oil left behind from hand-kneading. The flatbreads make for memorable panini slathered with toppings like stracchino (tangy, jiggly fresh cheese) and soft fennel salami; arugula, tomato, and prosciutto; or mortadella. The sweets don’t disappoint either: Ancient grain crostatas pies are filled with cherry jam or peak-season jammy figs, slices of torta della nonna (custard pie) are topped with almonds or pine nuts, and chocolate-stuffed brioche makes for a great breakfast.

Know before you go: The tiny bakery is best suited for takeaway.

Open for: Dinner 

Price range: $$$

This natural wine bar and bistro opened with a built-in following; brother-and-sister duo sommelier Nicola and talented chef-baker Irene Schirru had already gained the city’s respect after years of pouring and cooking at Coquinarius near the Duomo. In this space of their own in the Oltrarno, they showcase artisanal wines (French and Italian) paired with cheeses and cured meats from Slow Food presidias, baccalà mantecato (whipped salt cod) with caramelized onions on toasted brioche, game meat ragu in fresh tagliatelle, hand-folded agnolotti stuffed with francesina (Tuscan beef slow cooked in red wine and onion), and flakey quiche baked with seasonal vegetables such as asparagus or beet greens.

Know before you go: Stick around for Nicola’s stories about the producers of the unique wines he’s spent years selecting.

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Adventurous eaters, Il Magazzino is your jam. Sample gourmet versions of Florence’s street food lampredotto in a sit-down osteria setting: fried meatballs of the gutsy stuff, lampredotto-filled ravioli topped with Tropea onion sauce, and even tempura-fried lampredotto sushi, which nods to chef Luca Cai’s stint in Japan. Everything on the menu is pretty stellar, except the steak. Stick to the pastas and organ meats, and you’ll land a one-of-a-kind meal.
Know before you go: Dining with a squirmy eater or vegetarian? Have no fear — non-offal options are also available.

Open for: Morning through evening 

Price range: $

Procacci is a cornerstone of Florence’s aperitivo scene. In operation since 1885, the cafe catered to King Vittorio Emanuele III, and it has displayed a royal coat of arms from the House of Savoy since 1925. The truffle den is now owned by Antinori, Tuscany’s most historic wine-producing clan (30-plus generations strong), who supply all the wine. Dive into the decadent menu for options like foie gras, mortadella soaked in alchermes (an Italian liqueur), or egg with sliced truffle. Pick up a few gourmet souvenirs too, including truffle salts, truffle-infused anchovies, white truffle honey, aged balsamic vinegars, and fine chocolates.

Vibe check: These days, it’s a good spot for people-watching during fashion trade shows, when global fashionistas flock for dainty mini paninos and glasses of sparkling Franciacorta (Lombardy’s equivalent of Champagne).

Open for: Midday until evening

Price range: $$

Tucked away off the Ponte Vecchio is one of the most revered wine bars in the country. Part shop, part bar and local hangout, Le Volpi pours and sells bottles that uniquely represent the Italian wine landscape, highlighting passionate producers. A crack team of winemakers, sommeliers, and wine educators staff the bar, and if they hook you up with a wine you love, you can join the wine club or ship bottles abroad. The bar serves choice meat and cheese plates and warm crostini toasts to accompany tastings. If you see wild boar fennel salami, snag a plate. And you can’t leave without having the crostino with melted lardo and asiago, or the finger panini with cured duck breast and butter.

Know before you go: The tables outside tend to get booked up in advance, but the (cramped) bar seating is first come first serve.

Open for: Dinner 

Price range: $$$

One of the few consistent, vintage trattorias left in Florence’s city center, this cherished basement wine cellar-turned-restaurant off the Ponte Vecchio is small on space but big on soul. Dive deep into true Florentine cuisine with mainstays like ribollita soup, braciole rifatte (breaded and fried Florentine veal re-cooked in tangy tomato sauce), artichoke or porcini tortino (frittata), panzanella, maltagliati pasta, Fiorentina steaks, monk’s beard (agretti) and fennel orange salads, and fried cow brains — all with a great wine list. Overlook the hit or miss service, and you’ll find one of the best meals Florence has to offer.

Must-try dish: The butter knife-tender rump steak with crispy aromatic herbs and pecorino.

Open for: Lunch 

Price range: $

If the chaotic, crowded local trattorias aren’t your thing, head to 150-plus-year-old Sergio Gozzi for a similar slice of ambiance and culinary history — but with more space and less waiting. A true Florentine trattoria, Sergio Gozzi changes up its renowned fried offerings based on the seasons: fried zucchini flowers in the summer and artichokes in the winter. Also keep an eye out for porchetta, peposo (beef stew slow-cooked in wine and whole peppercorns), and one of the best pappa al pomodoro soups in town.

Best for: An early lunch after visiting the nearby Medici chapels but before the lines build up in the afternoon.

Open for: Gelato 

Price range: $

Veteran gelato makers, who have been crafting exceptional scoops for decades, have sustained Florence’s gelato cred in the face of an onslaught of tourist traps serving mountains of artificially produced gelato. But, one of the newer gelato shops is a noteworthy example of the younger generation bravely carrying the torch in the city considered to be the birthplace of gelato. Run by a husband-wife duo, My Sugar meticulously churns out classic flavors like bittersweet chocolate and Bronte pistachio, seasonal fruit like kid-approved strawberry and watermelon, and more worldly flavors including green tea, pure peanut, and dark chocolate spiked with local chianti.

Must-try dish: Stick to the unique flavors, since the rest of Florence’s gelaterias will have all the classics.

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
International food offerings are growing at a modest pace in Florence, and the city’s Iranian population is well represented by Ristorante Persiano Tehran. Situated in Piazza dei Cimatori, aka “Dante’s Neighborhood,” this restaurant proudly serves Iranian specialties, like ground beef koobideh, marinated spiced joojeh chicken kebabs, hearty herb and lamb stew ghormeh sabzi, Persian bastani, and rose-, saffron-, or pistachio-flavored ice cream. The decor pays homage to the owners’ home country and offers a Persian escape in the midst of Florence’s Renaissance-heavy center.
Best for: Lunch after a morning visit to the Uffizi, which is a stone’s throw away.

Open for: Lunch and dinner

Price range: $$

A short walk from the Uffizi Gallery, this tiny eatery makes its intentions clear on the handwritten menu outside: no pizza, no ice, no cappuccino, and no spritz. This osteria serves traditional Tuscan food, and is known for its pappardelle in duck ragu, ribollita soup, fragrant saffron pasta tossed with zucchini flowers and a touch of cream, and mains like tomato-stewed cod, fried chicken and zucchini flowers, peppery peposo (beef stew dating back to the Renaissance, served with seasonal beans), and a few grilled red meat options.

Know before you go: The wine list is overpriced and full of unremarkable labels, so bring your own wine and pay for corkage.

Open for: Lunch and dinner

Price range: $$

Tucked off a hidden street in the Santa Croce zone, Libreria Brac is equal parts cafe, restaurant, and modern art gallery with an eclectic library of books, vintage magazines, and choice music. The vegetarian menu shows influences from the chef’s travels around the world (he’s especially fond of cities like San Francisco); expect microgreen salads with avocado and almond lemon dressing, and tangy tomato and buffalo mozzarella-layered casseroles topped with crispy pane carasau, a traditional wafer-thin flatbread from Sardinia. Locals go for the mixed platters, which include a pasta — such as the ginger- and potato-filled tortelli with arugula pesto or radicchio risotto — a salad, and a slice of savory pane carasau, all for less than 25 euros. Brac is also a coveted spot for weekend brunches of pancakes and scrambles.

Best for: Planners. If you haven’t booked a week in advance, forget about it.

Open for: Lunch and dinner

Price range: $$

Tuscan cuisine is the foundation at this “culinary club,” but diners revel in finding specialties from across the boot on the menu. The owner and head chef inspires memories from nonna’s kitchen, using obscure regional ingredients and materie prime (raw materials) from the most idyllic producers in the country, like one that supplies cheese aged in Etruscan-era caves. The fried polpette di bollito (beef croquettes) are must haves, as are charcuterie boards, rabbit and olives, and the potato-filled tortelli with various options of ragu (the goat is a win).

Best for: Diners missing seasonal vegetables after a few of the city’s meat-heavy Tuscan menus. 

Open for: Morning to night

Price range: $

Savvy Sicilian chef Carmelo Pannocchietti is a fixture in Florence. His Sicilian street food outposts can satisfy a cannoli craving, but Arà also makes notably generous ragu-filled arancini, slabs of Sicilian pizza, granitas, and arguably the best Bronte pistachio gelato in town. Pannocchietti has expanded his venture into a bit of an empire, with pop-up stands along the river in the summer, an outpost on the top floor of the Mercato Centrale food hall, and a sit-down fast-casual deli (similar to a tavola calda).

Know before you go: Don’t sleep on the natural wine list, which has some mind-boggling options sourced from the restaurant’s eponymous island.

Open for: Lunch and dinner

Price range: $$$

In the heart of San Niccolo, just below the steps leading up to the panoramic Piazza Michelangelo square, is one of tastiest carb bars on the planet. Fresh cappellaci is the specialty at this mother-and-son operation, where it’s offered with a myriad of stuffings, like winter squash and ricotta, and toppings, like green kale pesto sauce or freshly shaved truffles, when in season. You’ll also find tavola calda-type offerings, like sliced roasted meats and caramelized vegetables, all with a unique Champagne and natural wine selection.

Know before you go: Don’t ask too many questions and put your phone away if you want to stay in the good graces of your hosts.

Open for: Aperitivo through late night 

Price range: $$

A treasure trove for natural wine lovers, Vineria Sonora combines a vinyl record store with a bar-bistro setting, featuring both DJs and winemakers. Nowhere else in Florence houses such an immense selection of minimal-intervention Italian wines, including plenty of obscure garage-based makers and cult favorites. The food features artisanal specialty ingredients from across the country, with a sprinkling of Calabria where owners Laura Giovinetti and Andrea Marsico hail from. Simple yet adventurous small plates include wild game tartares, roasted porchetta, rustic lasagna with wild boar, Calabrian chile ’nduja crostini, and seasonal accouterments like baked squash and artichokes. Giovinetti and Marsico also run a spillover bar across the street, Lato B (B-Side), which serves aperitivo with bar bites, vinyl records, and zines for sale.

Know before you go: Keep an eye on the calendar for DJ nights and wine producer pop-ups.

Open for: Lunch and dinner

Price range: $$$$

Among Florence’s Michelin-starred darlings, Saporium is worth celebrating. The restaurant, which also has a green Michelin clover, looks like a mix between a Renaissance palace and an arboretum, while the food consists of various memorable tasting menus by chef Ariel Hagen. Combining the chef’s passions for fermentation and Italian biodiversity, dishes include taglioni dressed with sambuca flowers and fermented koji crema, risotto with sheep milk kefir and preserved lemon, and squab-filled agnolotti in eel broth. It’s all made with organic ingredients and wild botanicals sourced from Borgo San Pietro’s flagship resort in Chiusdino, a once abandoned Medieval family estate turned luxury villa on several acres of converted farmland.

Know before you go: The speakeasy-style lounge next door offers cocktails accented with items like smoked juniper and fermented orange along with snacks like saffron bone marrow arancini.

Open for: Morning through the afternoon

Price range: $

While Florentines debate about the best lampredotto stand, family-run Pollini is the most iconic option. Not to be conflated with tripe, lampredotto is cow stomach classically cooked in a savory broth and served chopped, stuffed in bread, and topped with a green herb and chile sauce. Across from the ancient Sant’Ambrogio church and in view of the stunning Synagogue of Florence, Tripperia Pollini (aka “Da i’ babbo e figliolo” or “by pop and son”) prepares the dish in a notable range of sauces — tomato with artichoke, beef cheek guanciale, chard, porcini in season — plus classic tripe in tomato sauce. All are best washed down with a goblet of wine or a beer on the corner, while the proprietor hollers out orders into the hustle and bustle.

Vibe check: Pollini has garnered quite a following, especially after Stanley Tucci visited.

Open for: Lunch 
Price range: $
Young Florentines are molding the dining scene into something more refined and international, and there are few places left in the city where you can experience an old-fashioned, family-run greasy spoon, complete with the staff hollering at each other as if they were in their own living room. For that, head to this trattoria inside the Sant'Ambrogio market. Beat the crowds by going before 1 p.m., or join them in the small booths for dirt-cheap plates of panzanella in the summer, pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread soup) in the spring, and everything else in between, like simple pastas, meat and potatoes, and hearty desserts of caramelized pears.
Know before you go: Grab a Campari soda from the adjacent bar kiosk while you wait for a table.

Open for: Lunch
Price range: $
For the best sandwich in the world, according to obviously biased owner Marco Paparozzi, head to his tiny panino stall perched on the curb of the Sant'Ambrogio market. Fillings here break the usual meat-and-cheese mold, drawing from Tuscan-inspired flavors and dishes: Think stewed donkey, pear, pecorino, and truffle; wild boar sausage and broccoli rabe; and, at times, carb-on-carb taglierini pasta panino. Select your filling from the rotating chalkboard menu and Paparozzi or his nephew will promptly whip up a flavorful panino and insist it be washed down with a small glass of wine.
Know before you go: Keep your phone in your pocket if you don’t want to invite the ire of the charismatic but surly owner.

Open for: All day

Price range: $

On the lip of Sant’Ambrogio in Piazza Beccaria, you’ll find the fanciest pastry spot in the historic center. The decor is like being in a ballroom, colored old-school with teal and featuring classic ceramics and glassware. This spot is beloved for its dedication to artisanal raw ingredients, such as Valrhona cacao for its flourless chocolate cake and cherry-picked figs and forest fragoline (wild strawberries) from the local markets for its mini seasonal fruit tartlets. The cafe also procures Florentine classics like puff pastry sfoglia and budino di riso (rice pudding in shortbread crust). It’s tiny inside, with a few tables on the curb, but it’s worth it to squeeze in. It also has an espresso machine in what appears to be a closet, but within is specialty coffee from Cafe Piansa, an institutional craft roaster. This is the ideal place for Italian breakfast, and if you insist on having a cornetto and cappuccino, this spot does them properly.

Know before you go: Save room in your luggage to take back some cookies and savory pastries.