Lark in the park
A THEME park without white-knuckle rides! The very idea was a shock for my two daughters.
But my little ride-aholics were swept away by the sheer magnificence of Europe's undiscovered gem - Le Grand Parc Du Puy Du Fou in the Vendée, France.
It's amazing that such a fantastic theme park, which merges high entertainment with a dash of history, should be so little known.
The park stages spectacular shows in its 6,000-seat Gallo-Roman amphitheatre telling the dramatic story of a rebel gladiator.
The gladiator falls in love with a female prisoner who is due to be sacrificed and sets about defending her.
Realistic sword fighting becomes even more true to life as fake blood spurts from the defeated combatants.
A chariot race is staged, then lions are brought in to make a meal of the gladiator and his love. But our hero triumphs when the lions lie down on the job and refuse to provide a gory end.
In another arena there's a brilliant display of falconry. The birds of prey flash above the heads of the audience, so close you feel the air rush past your hair as they swoop.
The last ten minutes of the show are truly incredible. Huge condors and other large birds, including pelicans, fly above in a well-choreographed musical ballet. It left us speechless.
Other amazing things to see include the story of a musketeer who falls in love with a flamenco dancer - but he has a rival for her love, the powerful Cardinal Richelieu.
Spectacular dancing and sword fighting follow on one of the biggest indoor stages I've ever seen. And that's followed by horses trotting around a flooded stage.
If you're feeling peckish, you can join a medieval banquet. We were brought food by serving wenches as we watched a floor show involving contests between our own King Henry and the French King Francois. The restaurant is divided into two groups of supporters to encourage both English and French. It creates a really fantastic atmosphere.
Attached to the Parc is the Cinéscénie which consists of a huge semi-circular stadium facing the rebuilt Renaissance Chateau, a castle built under Francois I in the 15th Century.
The show starts at 10pm at weekends and lasts two hours. It is a massive effort with a cast of 3,000 actors (all volunteers from nearby villages), 100 horses and scores of animals, including ducks, geese, goats and pigs. The show relives the history of the area from the Middle Ages to World War II.
It is all done with a fantastic light, laser and water show with the actors and animals and features spectacular sword fights, equestrian displays and fire eating.
As each part of the story is told, various sections of the stage are illuminated to pick out the scene.
Meanwhile, unseen by the audience in the pitch black, the next scene is set up.
To show the passage of time bright yellow daylight suddenly becomes white light and, incredibly, villagers and their animals then stand stock still for several minutes - until, as daylight returns, they continue on their way.
It is an amazing achievement to get so many untethered animals to stand still.
The finale of the event features a huge fireworks and light show.
Le Grand Parc is about an hour's drive from Nantes. And it's in the perfect position for a trip from a coastal holiday in the Vendée region and would make a fantastic weekend away.
Another good plan would be to break up a drive on the way to a holiday further south.
The Parc now has a hotel - the Villa Gallo-Romaine - with 100 themed rooms right next door.
It is probably best to do as we did and take in the Parc and Cinéscénie on the way home, because it makes such a marvellous ending to your holiday.
But, whatever you decide to do, don't miss it!
FACT FILE
This year Le Grand Parc opens in April to the end of September.
Prices: Adult day passes e25 (£18.70); child e15 (£11.30). See www.puydufou.com/uk for offers.
Where to stay: The Villa Gallo-Romaine. Two adults and two children aged over two pay e334 (£250) for two nights' B&B, including tickets to the Parc for two days and entry to the Cinéscénie.
Getting there: Fares start at £140 return for a car plus two passengers on Brittany Ferries. Book online at www.brittanyferries.co.uk or call 08705 360 360.
Drive: The park is 80km south of Angers on the A87 motorway, exit 28.
Train: St Pancras to Nantes return costs from £50 to £200. Journey time 5hr 47mins. Train from Nantes to Cholet £8 return. Taxi or bus from Cholet to Puy Du Fou. See www.sncf.co.uk
Plane: UK flights to Nantes from £86.