Over the past two or three years the South Korean capital has seen a boom in designers, all hell bent on bringing their unique viewpoint on dressing to an international audience in the traditional fashion capitals of the world. The result is an incredibly dynamic and varied selection of labels, all vying for dominance in an emerging menswear market.
Cementing its position as a fashion capital, from 20-21 April, the Shilla Hotel in Seoul will also play host to the second annual Conde Nast International Luxury Conference, curated by the legendary Suzy Menkes, who described the city as luxury’s newest and hottest hub.
With that in mind, we took the 11 hour plane journey this season to see what was going down out there. Not only did we find one of the most well-dressed male populations we’ve ever seen in attendance at the shows (think American workwear meets denim meets streetwear), but also a whole swathe of labels that should be on the radar of any bona fide menswear fan.
After a week of shows, we’ve picked out five of the most exciting menswear brands at Seoul Fashion Week and what makes their collections stand out.
1) Blindness
Designers: Kyu Yong Shin and Jong Taek Lee Founded: 2013 Good for fans of: JW Anderson, Matthew Miller, Dior Homme Vibes: If you’re the kind of guy who loves anything leather, Blindness is the brand for you. From the ragged-hem trousers to the slimline leather jackets slipped under coats as an extra insulating layer, the material was the collection’s anchor fabric. Judging by the rapturous applause after the show (a rarity in super-polite Korean society) there was a lot of love for this brand from the audience - expect this brand to burst out internationally soon. Website: en.blindnessshop.com
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2) Ordinary People
Designer: Jang Hyeong-Cheol Founded: 2013 Good for fans of: Lanvin, Berltui, Salvatore Ferragamo Vibe: The gentleman’s choice on the Seoul Fashion Week catwalks, Jang Hyeong-Cheol’s Ordinary People is known for its sense of relaxed sophistication. While we saw the sort of beautiful silk pyjamas and dressing gowns the hero wearing in an old Hollywood film would wear in this most recent collection, there’s nothing staid about the clothes on offer: light leather blouson jackets, slouchy suits with contrast piping and faux fur teddy bear coats. Website: ordinarypeople.kr
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3) 87MM
Designers: Wonjoong Kim, Chan Kim and Jiwoon Park Founded: 2013 Good for fans of: Public School, Alexander Wang, Agi & Sam Vibe: Founded by three of Korea’s biggest male models (they’ve walked internationally for big name brands such as Prada and Etro), it’s no surprise that this trinity’s collections are packed with the sort of easy-to-wear looks you’d see on models rushing between shows at fashion week. Yes there’s a tux or two, but you’ll mostly find relaxed formal trousers, block colour rollnecks, and big statement coats thrown over everything from tracksuits to tailoring. Website: 87mm.co.kr
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4) Kim Seo Ryong
Designer: Kim Seo Ryong Founded: 1996 Good for fans of: John Varvatos, Richard James, Bottega Veneta Vibe: Kim Seo Ryong’s eponymous line brings a rock ‘n’ roll attitude to traditional tailoring: suits worn with deep V-neck T-shirts, shearling splashed coats and slimline leather trousers (with a zip at the hem incase you want to flare them out). While it’s generally a mix of earthy, neutral colours with black, there’s a pattern pop or two for those who want to add a rebellious edge to their outfit. Website: kimseoryong.com
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5) Heich Es Heich
Designer: Sanghyuk Han Founded: 2013 Good for fans of: Ami, Burberry, Hentsch Man Vibe: Bringing laid-back luxe to the Seoul fashion scene, Heich Es Heich specialises in streetwear-vibing slouch. The most recent collection was dominated by relaxed casual suits, oversized outerwear and sporty zip-ups splashed with colourful metallics and contrasted against blue, green and pink pastels, as well as black and camel. Website: heichesheich.com
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