Korea is known for many things and that includes beauty. BB creams, sheet masks and cushion compacts are all trendy items that have originated from Korea before becoming popular in the United States. Even if you love skincare, you may not be familiar with the brands, techniques and rituals that are popular there. It is why we reached out to dermatologists and beauty bloggers for some expert insight on Korean beauty. Keep reading for a full guide on K-beauty—from application methods to the key ingredients and popular products you should know.
Meet the Experts
- Dr. Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist specializing in dermatology and dermatopathology at MDCS Dermatology.
- Dr. Hee Jin Koh, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist specialized in cosmetic and medical dermatology, as well as Korean beauty. She practices at Hudson Dermatology and Laser Surgery in New York City.
- Dr. Y. Claire Chang is a board-certified dermatologist specialized in cosmetic and laser dermatology Expert and skin of color. She practices at UnionDerm in Manhattan, New York.
- Charlotte Cho is the founder of the beauty website Soko Glam.
- Sheryll Donerson is a Byrdie contributor who spent two years living in South Korea. She is also the founder of the blog The Wanderlust Project.
Give Yourself a Facial Massage
Facial massages are a popular practice in Korea. They can “help decrease puffiness and improve circulation, potentially improving the appearance of skin and facial structure temporarily,” Dr. Koh says. “However, you have to be very consistent to continue to see visible improvement.” There are several tools and ways to partake in the practice. Dr. Chang notes there is no best method and that you may use your fingers to give yourself a facial massage.
- Gua sha. A type of at-home facial massage, they are a great tool for for targeted massages and sculpting, Dr. Chang says.
- Jade rollers. Another widely used option, jade rollers help reduce swelling and offer a relaxing experience. “It may help with enhancing absorption of skincare products,” although there is limited data on the subject, according to Dr. Chang.
- Ice rollers. This method is an efficient option to quickly reduce swelling, puffiness and offer stress relief.
- Kyung Rak or lymphatic deep tissue massage. This type of facial massage is popular in Korea, says Dr. Koh. It helps “reshape the appearance of facial shape and asymmetry in structure.”
Don't Skip Steps In Your Skincare Routine
Korean skincare is known for its multi-step routine, with products being layered from thinnest consistency to the thickest. “This multi-step approach maximizes absorption of products and focuses on skin health and hydration,” Dr. Chang says.
Toner and serums are popular additions to skincare routines. “Toner can be used to remove excess oils and prepare skin for the application of additional products,” Dr. Camp says. “A serum can then be applied to effectively deliver a high concentration of ingredients, such as a moisturizer or antioxidant. After using a moisturizer, sunscreen is applied last.”
Learn How to Achieve Dewy Skin
Skincare is key to achieving dewy skin. “Dewy skin comes from well-moisturized and healthy skin,” Dr. Koh says. Dr. Chang adds that achieving dewy skin often involves a multi-step skincare routine.
- “Hydrating ingredients can help moisturize and plump the skin to give a more dewy appearance,” she says. She points to ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, snail mucin, panthenol and ceramides. Dr. Koh recommends using Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask, which “are well known for giving you dewy skin the next day,” as well as Torriden Dive-in Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Dive In Soothing Cream for a lightweight moisturizer.
- “Brightening skincare ingredients can also give the appearance of more even, smoother skin,” Dr. Chang adds. She says to look out for ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, licorice root extract, kojic acid and glycolic acid.
Makeup may also be used to give the skin a dewy or glowy quality. Cho suggests starting with a radiance-boosting primer like IPKN Radiant Cream Primer. Donerson recommends using a lightweight foundation or a BB cushion like Missha Magic Cushion Foundation. For an additional glowy effect, she like to apply some shimmer to her cheeks and eyelids. Try using Bobbi Brown Bronze Shimmer Brick Compact Highlighter—although not a Korean beauty brand.
Switch Up Your Application Method
Korean skincare comes with specific application methods, Dr. Chang explains. “Although the scientific evidence behind these applications is not well established, they are commonly used in Korea.”
- Tapping (or patting) skincare products onto the skin is a common application method. “This method is suggested to help absorb the product better and be gentler on the skin, reducing the risk of irritation,” Dr. Chang says. She suggest tapping products such as toners, essences and serums instead rubbing them.
- Spatulas are commonly used to apply both skincare and makeup products. Thicker formulas like creams, balms and masks are often sold with an accompanying spatula. “This helps scoop an appropriate amount and prevents contamination from hand germs,” Dr. Chang says. For makeup, spatulas help measure how much product is being used for a better application. “In Korea, many makeup artists use spatulas when applying makeup, in order to control the amount of product that is being used,” Dr. Koh says.
Byrdie Tip
BB cushions can also be an efficient way to apply products. “I tap the cushion against my skin and use a minimal amount of product,” Dr. Koh adds. “It allows for thin and flawless finish.”
Prevent and Treat Hyperpigmentation
Asian skin typically has more melanin than lighter skin types and is therefore more prone to hyperpigmentation. Preventing the appearance of dark spots and evening out skin tone is a core component of Korean beauty.
- Prevention. Sunscreen is essential to preserve skin health and prevent hyperpigmentation. Dr. Koh says Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence is one of her favorites, while Round Lab Birch Moisturizing Sunscreen is hydrating and doesn’t leave a white cast. According to Cho, it is also popular to cover up in order to avoid UVA/UVB rays. “They’re careful to avoid direct sunlight by using hats, umbrellas and gloves whenever necessary,” she says.
- Treatment. There are several methods to fade dark spots and even out skin tone. It is popular to use “natural skin brighteners such as rice extracts, vitamin C and licorice, as well as exfoliators,” Cho says. She recommends using Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin C Drop, while Dr. Koh suggests trying Celimax Pore+Dark Spot Brightening Serum, which features niacinamide and tranexamic acid. Cho adds that the use of laser to help fade brown spots is also a popular option.
Treat Blemishes with Pimple Patches
Pimple patches are an enduring and popular method to treat blemishes. “When I taught at a middle school in Korea, all my girls would wear these pimple patches on their skin to help with their spots,” Donerson shares. “They are absolutely genius! I only wear them at night, but if you’re looking for a way to get rid of a blemish fast, I swear by them.” She like to use COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch.
Double Cleanse
Double cleansing is a big part of Korean skincare. Although everyone doesn’t have to double cleanse, it is recommended for those who wear makeup and sunscreen, as well as those with oily or acne-prone skin. “Double cleansing allows for a thorough cleanse, removing both oil-based and water-based impurities,” Dr. Chang says. “Thorough cleansing will help prevent clogged pores and breakouts.” Cho adds that a clean base is key to achieving flawless and long-lasting makeup.
- Start with an oil-based cleanser. It will help “emulsify makeup, oil, and residue from skincare products to facilitate their removal,” Dr. Camp says. Try Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil or Hanskin Pore Cleansing Oil.
- Follow with a water-based cleanser. It will help remove all remaining impurities on the skin such as dirt and sweat. Try Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Foam or Etude SoonJung pH 6.5 Whip Cleanser.
Byrdie Tip
Donerson says she loves to use powder cleansers, a big trend in Korea. “I love them! They are great to travel with or throw in your gym bag, as you don’t have to worry about it spilling everywhere or any liquid restrictions at the airport” she says. Try using Hanskin Vitamin C Glow Powder Cleanser or DHC Face Wash Powder.
Use Rice-Based Products
Ingredients derived from rice—such as rice bran extract, fermented rice bran extract and rice water—are known for their moisturizing, antioxidant, brightening and well-aging properties. Although rice water in particular has become a popular skincare ingredient, there is a lack of scientific studies on its benefits, Dr. Koh notes. She recommends using Numbuzin No.3 Super Glowing Essence Toner for hydration.
Rice water has been used in in Asian beauty rituals for centuries, Dr. Chang says. “Rice water is rich in vitamins, amino acids, antioxidants and starches, which can improve skin health,” she shares. “Potential skin benefits of rice water include improving skin brightness, fighting free radical damage to prevent premature aging, reducing inflammation and calming the skin, and increased skin hydration.”
Incorporate Essence In Your Routine
Essence water (or essence) is a lightweight, hydrating liquid used to moisturize the skin. It helps “replenish moisture and enhance absorption of subsequent products,” Dr. Chang says. Essence is applied after cleanser, toner and before moisturizer. They often have a thicker formula than toners. Although applying essence water is a popular step in Korean skincare, it isn’t an essential product, according to Dr. Koh. “There are so many hydrating toners out there, in which case, I don't find that it's necessary to use essence,” she says.
Use Hydrating Sheet Masks
Hydrating sheet masks are a Korean beauty product that have become increasingly popular in Western countries. “The use of sheet masks is widespread in Korea. The sheet masks are soaked in serums and essences to provide intense nourishment and hydration to the skin,” Dr. Chang says.
The occlusive nature of sheet masks is what makes them so effective. “The occlusive properties of a sheet mask traps moisture in the skin, which can help skin stay hydrated and improve the appearance of fine lines,” Dr. Camp says.
Hydrating sheet masks vs. overnight masks
Both products are similar in that they both help moisturize the skin. Dr. Chang notes that single-use hydrating sheet masks remain more popular in Korea because they are versatile and easy to use. However, she says that overnight masks have recently been gaining in popularity.
Use Products with Snail Mucin
The popularity of skincare products containing snail mucin peaked a few years ago but remains well-loved on the beauty market. The ingredient is featured in a wide range of Korean products such as essences, toners, masks and creams. “Snail mucin is rich in hyaluronic acids, glycoproteins, copper peptides, antioxidants and antimocrobial peptides,” Dr. Chang says. “Snail mucin has multiple potential benefits to the skin, including skin hydration, skin repair, soothing effects, and improved skin texture.”
“If I had to choose a Korean product, it would be the COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence,” Donerson says. “It’s literally 96 percent snail mucin and it does an amazing job of getting rid of any skin irritation, while being extremely hydrating. It makes my skin glow like no other.”
Byrdie Tip
Mucin comes from the slime excreted by snails when they are stressed. Most studies are lab, animal and small human studies, Dr. Chang says.