SECTION ONE
INTERFACING THE DIVINE
Otto von Busch and Jeanine Viau
Scholars of fashion, body, and dress recurringly contemplate clothing as a “second skin.”
This conceptual playfulness has analytical and metaphorical consequences, but it is also
grounded in the everyday use of clothes: we change layers of clothing throughout the
day, yet still, what remains underneath, the flesh of our self, remains the same. There is
an immediate experience that clothes only touch the surface of life.
Yet, simultaneously, we feel deeply about our clothes. Even the most confident or
sartorially apathetic person may agonize about what to wear for a certain situation. We can
get uncomfortable in our second skin, the context may not be right, and a stain or fray may
be a nuisance. The image we see in the mirror is at friction with what we see inside. This
membrane between “me” and the world does not do its job. It gets even more complicated
when we think of what it is that is at work “inside” ourselves, of what it is we long to reveal.
One aspect of dressing deeply is interfacing with something within, giving shape to
an experience that is more than the ego or the self. This can take different forms and
meanings across spiritual techniques. Some speak of the feeling of the eternal, a portal
that opens beyond the self, a passage inward that may well open outward. Others call
out for or are possessed by a specific divine presence, such as the Kumārī, young girls
in Nepal who are incarnations of shakti as Liz Wilson describes in her chapter. Fashion
plays a role in such interfacing, whether as a membrane between the inner and outer
realms or as a mode of communion with divine powers. The texture of these connections
is not necessarily smooth but made of tensions, folds, and wrinkles of concrete and
mystical experience.
Theologian Dorothee Soelle (2001: 27) posits, “mystical experience happens when
the I steps forth from its self-imposed and imagined limits. The I leaves the everyday
world and, at the same time, leaves itself as the being defined by that world.” Soelle draws
parallels to the Sufi mystic Rumi’s strophe “Why, when God’s world is so big, / did you
fall asleep in a prison / of all places?” (2001: 30) Soelle places Rumi’s words in relation to
the individualization processes under the modern standardized economic order, with its
limited scope of what it means to be human.
Here we can think of mystical anthropotechnics toward the divine; how the divine
opens itself to draw attention toward something more than the self, a breaking out of the
prison we have fallen asleep in, a doorway opening to the deeper chambers of experience,
or as Fiona Dieffenbacher explores in her chapter, a future ultimate reality. As in many
faiths, this expedition is led by poetic language, in shrouds and robes of vagueness, as
the map cannot be universal. In such poetics of inner wayfinding, we may also think of
the mystical potential of fashion, where dress is so much more than communication and
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conformity; it is a search for depth and meaning in a world of appearances. Deep dress
is a quest to handle attire and adornment as vehicles, waymarkings, or the path itself on
this inner odyssey or toward the infinite horizon. Here, fashion is the magic of glamour
surfacing; as Elizabeth Wilson (2007:100) points out, glamour is sublime, it signifies the
magic and allure of appearances, and it “depends on what is withheld, on secrecy, hints,
and the hidden.”
In everyday language, a wearer’s “style” connotes something deeper, more stringent,
more truthful than the fluctuations of trends or dressing up for a specific occasion. Style
is here a constant, an anchor held fast beneath the currents of the moment. Take, for
example, Nicola Masciandaro’s study in this volume of the affective constancy and charm
of Meher Baba’s silence. To reference someone’s style is a way to speak of a search for
a steadfastness inwardness beyond the oscillations of the everyday. Life is continuous
change, and to be human is to adapt, yet the pursuit for expressing “how I feel inside”
echoes of a desire to keep one room as a source of stability, even if this darkness is in itself
a process of metamorphosis.
The chapters in this section explore how the divine I might use deep dress to move
between the world of appearances and ultimate longings. Fiona Dieffenbacher makes a
direct correlation between a relational Trinitarian theology and the tripart interplay between
fashion-style-dress, a process of subject formation patterned after divine self-articulation.
Her Cartesian I longs for the transfigured body promised in Christian scripture, completed
in and by the resurrected Christ. Fashion-style-dress becomes a process by which the soul
participates in imagining this future body as ultimate dress, lavishly wrought, the clothing
of salvation. In counterpoint to the exuberance of Dieffenbacher’s ultimate dress, Nicola
Masciandaro’s inquiry into the “avataric normcore” of Meher Baba notes the sage’s intent
to blend into the multitude, a style amplified by silence, a clearly monistic utterance.
Masciandaro presents an example of how divine incarnation is recognizable in the style of
Meher Baba, and how paradoxically, the body is only another “clothing” of spiritual reality,
as experientially rich, real, and multifaceted as all other forms of appearance.
Appearances have the power to make divinity real, as with the Kumārī, young
girls in Nepal who are vessels of divine presence on earth. In her examination of
this phenomenon, Liz Wilson shows how surface mediums such as dress, makeup,
comportment, and choice of colors manifest the goddess and signify the worthiness of
her avatar beneath, showing the possibility of divine disclosure in all aspects of human
character and charisma. Here, it is through the surface, through the medium of dress,
that the onlooker gains access to the material embodiments of shakti, the divine force
animating the world.
Finally, for queer Buddhist monk Kodo Nishimura, makeup is part of spiritual
practice and a service entangled with that of the spiritual guidance of the monk. Here,
makeup on the body comes in alignment with the makeup for a deeper sense of self, or
a makeup of the mind, the process of developing beauty for the appearance of a more
true self. Beauty is more than just looks; it is people putting on god. It connotes Madison
Moore’s (2018) notion of the eccentricity of being free from the limitations of selfhood to
finally expand, to blossom as “fabulous.” Across these inquiries, the glamour of fashion
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Section One: Interfacing the Divine
is more than surface. It is a poetics that expands inward, and dressing gives both wearer
and onlooker a glimpse of the divine within.
References
Moore, Madison (2018), Fabulous: The Rise of the Beautiful Eccentric, New Haven, CT: Yale
University Press.
Soelle, Dorothee (2001), The Silent Cry: Mysticism and Resistance, Minneapolis: Fortress.
Wilson, Elizabeth (2007), “A Note on Glamour,” Fashion Theory, 11(1): 95–108.
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