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Eating and drinking in ancient Iran

A gallery talk at a BM Open Evening on the general theme of 'Feasts and Festivals'. Food and drink are life essentials and abundance symbolises wealth and generosity. Under royal or imperial patronage, eating and drinking are elevated to the higher arts, creating a distinction between high and low cuisine. Ferdowsi's 'Shah-Nameh' lists wine drinking, feasting and hunting among royal pursuits of Ardashir (Levy ed., XXII,255), and pleasure is defined as "wine, music and players" (XXII, 256). The celebrated medieval "Baghdad Cookery Book" cites eating as the highest of the six pleasures, the others being drinking, clothes, sex, scent and sound. Popular European concepts of Middle Eastern cookery are based on street food (eg kebabs and chicken) or exotic sweetmeats (eg Turkish Delight or baklava) but Oriental cuisine is far richer and deeply varied, anf had dramatic effects on medieval European dishes with the introduction of rosewater, orange blossom essence, tamarind and other spices, mince pies, Christmas pudding, marzipan, rice pudding, brown sauces and mint sauce! This talk looked at the types of evidence for reconstructing ancient food and drink at different periods in Iran. Excavated environmental evidence offer the raw ingredients. Food processing equipment shows how it was prepared. Ovens and other fire installations suggest how bread was baked but they also were used in stewing, steaming and grilling judging by medieval accounts. Pottery is sadly rarely informative in detail although organic residue analyses might throw some light in some cases. However, almost all pottery vessels were intended to hold or serve food or drink, and some were specialised such as churns, colanders, pilgrim flasks and rhyta. Relevant written sources from Iran date from the Achaemenid period onwards, especially contemporary Greek accounts of life at the Persian Court or ration lists from Persepolis. Middle Persian ostraca, the later 'Shah Nameh' and early Islamic cookery books offer rich evidence, and the preponderance of dishes with Persian names in the Baghdad Cookery Book is instructive. Sadly much more is lost and the Baghdadi author al-Nadim mentions as many as eleven 8th-10th century "Books Composed about Cooked Food", none of which survive. Finally, representations - whether on Persepolis reliefs or Sasanian silverwares - show how vessels were carried or sometimes used. Writing about the Persians, Herodotus stated that their "main dishes are few, but they have many sorts of dessert, the various courses being served separately. It is this custom that has made them say that the Greeks leave the table hungry, because we never have anything worth mentioning after the first course: they think that if we did, we should go on eating". Recipes attributed to the Sasanian period include the "Dish for the King" (hot and cold meats, rice jelly, stuffed vine leaves, marinated chicken, sweet date puree); a "Khurasan Dish" (spit-grilled meat with meat fried in butter with a sauce); a "Greek Dish" (eggs, honey, milk, butter, rice and sugar, i.e. a type of rice pudding) and a "Dehkan's Dish" (slices of salted mutton with pomegranate juice, served with eggs). Young kid, beef served with spinach and vinegar, spit-grilled hens fed on chenevis (the lower part of the chicken's back, known today as the mother-in-law's morsel, was a delicacy), almond pastries, quince jam and dates stuffed with almonds and wanuts were also popular.

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