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Ceramic evidence for sugar production in the ‘Akko plain Typology and provenance studies. By A. Shapiro, E.J. Stern, N. Getzov, S.Y. Waksman

2020, S.Y. Waksman ed. Multidisciplinary Approaches to Food and Foodways in the Medieval Eastern Mediterranean. Lyon

Excavations and surveys at five sites in the ‘Akko plain revealed evidence of sugar production from the 11th to the 17th centuries. Three of these are the subjects of a multidisciplinary study within the POMEDOR project. The results show typo-chronological development of the sugar molds, and the transfer of workshops from the coastal area under Crusader rule farther inland during the Mamluk period. This change coincides with the transfer of government from ‘Akko to Safed, and archaeological and archaeometric investigations provide clear indications of the active involvement of the central government in sugar production.

ARCHÉOLOGIE ( S ) // 4 MULTIDISCIPLINARY APPROACHES TO FOOD AND FOODWAYS IN THE MEDIEVAL EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN edited by Sylvie Yona Waksman MULTIDISCIPLINARY APPROACHES TO FOOD AND FOODWAYS IN THE MEDIEVAL EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ARCHÉOLOGIE ( S ) // 4 This volume brings together archaeologists, archaeological scientists and historians contributing different specialisms to an emerging field of research: food and foodways in the medieval Eastern Mediterranean. It presents the output of the POMEDOR project “People, pottery and food in the medieval Eastern Mediterranean” funded by the French National Research Agency. POMEDOR focused on changes in transitional periods, such as the Crusades and the Turkish conquests, as viewed through archaeological and archaeometric studies of pottery. The volume offers a wider scope, with research based on archaeobotany, archaeozoology, biological anthropology, and the study of archaeological structures, texts and iconography. Last but not least, it reveals the recipes conceived for a “Byzantine” dinner, held at the Paul Bocuse Institute during the final conference of the POMEDOR project. Dans ce volume, archéologues, archéomètres et historiens contribuent par différentes approches à un domaine de recherche émergent : les pratiques alimentaires en Méditerranée orientale médiévale. Il présente les résultats du programme ANR POMEDOR « Populations, poteries et alimentation en Méditerranée orientale médiévale », qui abordait l’évolution de ces pratiques lors de périodes de transition, telles que les croisades ou les conquêtes turques, principalement au travers d’études archéologiques et archéométriques de céramiques. Cet ouvrage couvre un champ plus large, incluant l’archéozoologie, l’archéobotanique, l’anthropologie biologique, l’étude des structures archéologiques, des textes et de l’iconographie. Enfin, il dévoile les recettes conçues pour un dîner « byzantin » clôturant le programme POMEDOR, organisé à l’Institut Paul Bocuse. © 2020 – Maison de l’Orient et de la Méditerranée – Jean Pouilloux 7 rue Raulin, F-69365 Lyon Cedex 07 ISBN 978-2-35668-070-9 ISSN 2724-8933 65 € Contents Sylvie Yona Waksman Foreword Elli Tzavella Corinth: beyond the forum. Use of ceramics, social implications and settlement pattern (12th‑13th centuries) INTRODUCTION Joanita Vroom Eating in Aegean lands (ca 700‑1500): Perspectives on pottery Sally Grainger Recipe: Pickle de légumes with oinogaron Sylvie Yona Waksman Introduction. The POMEDOR project “People, pottery and food in the medieval Eastern Mediterranean” Andrew Dalby The making of the Byzantine dinner, by a participant observer CYPRUS AND THE LEVANT Sally Grainger Recipe: Bouillon léger de poissons et fruits de mer (monokythron) Philippe Trélat Du lac de Limassol aux tables de Nicosie : pêcheries et consommation de poisson à Chypre sous la domination latine (1191‑1570) Gilles Grivaud Les tavernes (canutes) comme instruments de contrôle économique et social dans le royaume de Chypre aux xiiie‑xvie siècles Iryna Teslenko The composition of church festive meals in a medieval Christian community in the southern Crimea, based on ceramics and faunal materials Zeynep Mercangöz A pottery production for whom and for what target? Thoughts on pottery finds from Kadıkalesi (Kuşadası) excavation Michel Balard L’approvisionnement des villes d’Orient par les marchands italiens (xiiie‑xve siècle) Vedat Onar Animals in food consumption during the Byzantine period in light of the Yenikapı metro and Marmaray excavations, Istanbul Anna Elena Reuter Food production and consumption in the Byzantine Empire in light of the archaeobotanical finds Nicholas Coureas Food, wine and the Latin clergy of Lusignan Cyprus (1191‑1473) Chryssa Bourbou The biocultural model applied: Synthesizing research on Greek Byzantine diet (7th‑15th century AD) Ruth Smadar Gabrieli, Sylvie Yona Waksman, Anastasia Shapiro, Alessandra Pecci Archaeological and archaeometric investigations of cooking wares in Frankish and Venetian Cyprus Jacques Burlot, Sylvie Yona Waksman, Beate Böhlendorf‑Arslan, Joanita Vroom Changing people, dining habits and pottery technologies: Tableware productions on the eve of the Ottoman Empire in western Anatolia Edna J. Stern, Sylvie Yona Waksman, Anastasia Shapiro The impact of the Crusades on ceramic production and use in the southern Levant: Continuity or change? Filiz Yenişehirlioğlu Ottoman period sources for the study of food and pottery (15th‑18th centuries) Elisabeth Yehuda Between oven and Tannur: “Frankish” and “indigenous” kitchens in the Holy Land in the Crusader period Anastasia Shapiro, Edna J. Stern, Nimrod Getzov, Sylvie Yona Waksman Ceramic evidence for sugar production in the ‘Akko plain: Typology and provenance studies Richard Jones, Anthony Grey Some thoughts on sugar production and sugar pots in the Fatimid, Crusader/Ayyubid and Early Mamluk periods in Jordan TRADING GOODS, TRADING TASTES Sally Grainger Recipe: Omelette soufflée & Sweet salad Evelina Todorova One amphora, different contents: The multiple purposes of Byzantine amphorae according to written and archaeological data Alessandra Pecci, Nicolas Garnier, Sylvie Yona Waksman Residue analysis of medieval amphorae from the Eastern Mediterranean Sally Grainger Recipe: Quail pie & Mixed pulses Yana Morozova, Sylvie Yona Waksman, Sergey Zelenko Byzantine amphorae of the 10th‑13th centuries from the Novy Svet shipwrecks, Crimea, the Black Sea: Preliminary typology and archaeometric studies Ilias Anagnostakis “What is plate and cooking pot and food and bread and table all at the same time?” George Koutsouflakis The transportation of amphorae, tableware and foodstuffs in the Middle and Late Byzantine period: The evidence from Aegean shipwrecks Béatrice Caseau Dogs, vultures, horses and black pudding: Unclean meats in the eyes of the Byzantines Valentina Vezzoli Food habits and tableware in Venice: The connection with the Mamluk Sultanate BYZANTIUM AND BEYOND Nikos D. Kontogiannis, Stefania S. Skartsis, with contributions by Giannis Vaxevanis, Sylvie Yona Waksman Ceramic vessels and food consumption: Chalcis as a major production and distribution center in the Byzantine and Frankish periods 2020 – 508 pages, 153 illustrations ISBN 978-2-35668-070-9 65 € CONCLUDING REMARKS Johannes Koder Multidisciplinary approaches to food and foodways in the medieval Eastern Mediterranean: Concluding remarks to the POMEDOR symposium