Typology of the archaeological textile finds from the Hungarian Conquest Period (10th century AD) in the Carpathian Basin and their historical context

proceedingS 23–29 September 2019 Kislovodsk. Russia LLc «nasledie» (Stavropol) china national Silk museum co-chair: dr. Zvezdana dode, Leading researcher LLc "nasledie" (Stavropol, russia). prof. Zhao Feng, director china national Silk museum. Host: international Association for the Staudy of Silk road textiles. co-organizer: LLc "nasledie" (Stavropol, russia). editor: dale carolyn gluckman (Senior consultant, Queen Sirikit museum of textiles, bangkok). 23–29 September 2019 PRogRam 24.09.19 09.30–10.00 Opening Ceremony: — Tatyana Zagumennaya, Deputy Head of the Administration of the resort city of Kislovodsk. Welcome Speech; — Igor Voronin, Director of LLC «Nasledie», Stavropol. Welcome Speech; — Zhao Feng, President of the International Association IASSRT, Director China National Silk Museum. Opening Speech; — Sergej Savenko, Director Pyatigorsk Local History Museum. Congratulatory Speech; — Sergei Luzin, Director Kislovodsk Museum of Local History «Krepost» Congratulatory Speech. 10.30–12.30 Visiting the market of art crafts and traditional art of North Caucasian masters Territory of Kislovodsk Museum of Local History «Krepost». 13.00–14:00 Lunch. 14.30–15.30 Excursion to Kislovodsk Museum of Local History «Krepost». Exposition and Exhibitions: «The world of the Adyghe woman in the interiors of historical memory»; «History of the Highlands Old Families in Applied Art». 15.40–16.10 Practical lecture «The history of the formation of the traditional Caucasian costume» [Gochiyaeva Rahima, Senior Researcher Kislovodsk Museum of Local History «Krepost»]. 16.10–17.50 Master Class «Technique Caucasian Gold Embroidery» [Saida Pseunova, Head of the Art and Design Department of the National Museum of the Republic of Adygea] / Master Class «Art felt» [Elena Teleshova, Member of the Union of Designers of Russia]. 18.00–19.00 Dinner. The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 25.09.2019 09.00–13.00 1 Section 1. Chair: Presentations Dode Zvezdana Textiles as a historical source. CauCaSuS on ThE SILk Road Maria Menshikova 2 Savenko S.N., Korobov D.S. The Great Silk Road in the North Caucasus. 3 Zhao Feng A Preliminary Study on the Chinese Textiles Found in Northern Caucasus Valley. 4 Muthesius Anna Silks from Moscevaia Balka and from related sites: mirrors of the ‘inter-mingling’ of extended Silk Road textile traditions. Coffee break. Section 2. Chair: TExTILES In mEdIEVaL aRChaEoLogICaL monumEnTS oF EuRoPE Mary M. Dusenbury 5 Türk Attila, Harangi Flórián, Nagy Katalin Typology of the archaeological textile finds from the Hungarian Conquest Period (10th century AD) in the Carpathian Basin and their historical context. 6 Annika Larsson, Karolina Pallin Central Asian Silk Culture in Viking Age Scandinavia. 7 Åse Eriksen With silk for Valhall. 8 Anne Hedeager Krag Byzantine and Oriental silks from a Royal Shrine in Denmark AD 1100. 9 Aki Arponen Asian silk, European fashion and African Saint. 13.00–14.00 Lunch. 4 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT Section 3. 14.00–15.40 Chair: muSEum CoLLECTIonS and nEw aRChaEoLogICaL FIndS FRom EaST aSIa Zhao Feng 10 Maria Menshikova The Examples of Chinese Silk Textiles in the Hermitage collection: the Patterns, woven Characters and cut of the Objects as the historical Source. 11 Betty Hensellek Balalyk Tepe and a Sartorial System of Central Eurasia. 12 Luk Yu-ping Textile borders on paintings from Cave 17, Mogao Grottoes, Dunhuang. 13 Xu Wenyue Yuan and Ming Dynasty’s impact on Joseon Dynasty’s costume: Take costume excavated from BianXiu (邊脩，1447–1524)’s tomb as an example. 14 Wang Le Persian Silks in Chinese Contexts. 15.40–16.00 Coffee break. Section 4. TExTILE TEChnIquES aS hISToRICaL TExT 16.00–18.00 Chair: Anna Muthesius 15 Cai Xin Further Study of the Mechanical Structure of Luo-ji-zi Recorded in Practice of Carpentry. 16 Keum, Da Woon Study on Textile and embroidery of «Embroidered incense pouch on complex gauze» housed by Woljeongsa Museum. 17 Park KiChan A study on the techniques of the making golden threads which is used in the supplementary gold thread from the East Asia. 5 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 18 Mao Huiwei Comparative Study of Nasij and Jin Duan zi in Mongol and Yuan Dynasty. 19 Lee, Hee-Jin The Restoration of Silk used in Kings’ Portraits in the Joseon Dynasty. 20 Ho Zhaohua The Research of Miao “Linx” Weaving Techniques and History among Qingshui River. 18.00–19.00 dinner. 26.09.2019 Section 5. TExTILE PaTTERnS aS modELS oF ThE woRLd 09:00–10:00 Chair: Attila Türk 21 Angela Sheng Textiles as “Pattern Books”: Transmission of Motifs across Inner Asia in the First Millennium. 22 Kosuke Goto Early silk samit and Indian ornaments: a case of bizarre plant composite. 23 Kuang Yanghua The Embroidered Patterns on a Carpet Unearthed from Noin-Ula. 10.00–10.20 Coffee break. 6 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT Section 6 TExTILES aS a maTERIaLIZEd PoLICy: FabRICS In ThE ConTExT oF dIPLomaCy, RELIgIon, InTERnaTIonaL RELaTIonS 10.20–13.00 Chair: Dale Gluckman 24 Orit Shamir and Alisa Baginski Mulham Textiles (silk warp with hidden cotton wefts) as a Historical Source. 25 Juliane von Fircks Gold Rush – Weaving, Giving and Selling Silks in the Rising Mongol Empire. Places of Production, Patterns of Distribution and Transport Routes in the 13th century. 26 Irina Shingiray The Fabric of Diplomacy: A Mamluk (?) Tiraz in a Golden Horde Funerary Context. 27 Morris Rossabi Survival of Silk Roads, Late Ming and Early Qing. Coffee break. 28 Sim, Yeon Ok Tak Ui of Korean Buddhism made out of Chinese Dragon Robe. 29 Su Miao Artistic Features of Chinese Silk used by the Russian Flags. 30 Su Lee Tsai and Zhao Hua Ho A Study of Political, Economical and Societal Influences on Qi-pao’s Materials and Style in Maritime Silk Road. 13.00–14.00 Lunch. 7 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT Section 7. TExTILE TRadITIonS and InnoVaTIonS 14.20–16.40 Chair: Morris Rossaby 31 Celetti David Kazakhstan Traditional Textiles. Tradition, Culture, and Modern Fashion 32 Alisa Saisavetvaree Foreign Textiles and Fashion at the Siamese court during 17th-19th century 33 Masako Yoshida Comparison of the Chinese and Japanese tapestries produced mainly in the 17th through 19th century and handed down in the Gion Festival of Kyoto Coffee break. 34 Shen Jie and Wang Chen Suzhou Jacquard Chiffon Exported to Islamic Region in 20thCentury 35 Fatima K. Dzhigunova A collection of gold embroidery products in the funds of the National Museum of the Republic of Adygea 36 Chamba Rumal Cultural Journey of Indian Textiles 17.00–17.30 Closing of the symposium and summing up 18.00–19.00 dinner. 8 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 23–29 September 2019 attila Turk PhD. archaeologist, Pazma ny Peter catholic university, Department of archaeology, head of Department (Budapest) Katalin E. Nagy Flórián Harangi Textile-restorer, specialist in silk (Budapest) archaeologist, Pazmany Peter catholic university, Department of archaeology (Budapest) Typology of the archaeological Textile Finds from the hungarian conquest Period (10th century aD) in the carpathian Basin and Their historical context It is a fact that organic remains represent only a minute percentage of the archaeological finds from the 10th–11th centuries due to the climatic and soil conditions of the Carpathian Basin. Most of the surviving objects are of small size and poor condition. Mostly due to the poor preservation of the material, archaeologists in Hungary have generally failed to take into consideration the technical features of the textile remnants when identifying contemporary garments and textiles. The first grave that definitely included textile finds was excavated in 1850, but systematic research only began with the analysis of finds from the excavation at Szabadk gyós–P lliget, published by B lint Cs. in 1971. For a 24 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT long time, publications about this site remained the most important reference point regarding textiles from this period. Another groundbreaking step was done in 2009 by a team of some researchers (E. Nagy, Katalin textile restorers and her archaeologist team), who first of all were collected all textile finds originated from the 10th century in the Carpathian Basin and they comprehensively analysed the largest silk textile fragment (a samite) which had been recovered from a grave in site at Fony d. Based on historical data, the authors thoroughly studied the use of silk in the context of the Hungarian population and the period of the Hungarian Conquest and found East European and Byzantine parallels, which was a significant contribution. In regard to materials from the 10th century, two categories of textiles have been identified thus far. Linen, of which there was a more dense (better quality) type, and another, of inferior quality. On the other hand, there has also been a number of silk finds and their different weaving patterns could be also identified. Most of the silk finds recovered thus far were samite. A different type of silk (taquet fa onn ) was first documented at Tarpa (in 2012), and then in 2016, at Derecske which demonstrates that the occurrence of taqueté fabric was not a unique phenomenon in the 10th century. However, there are no examples among the published textile materials from Northern and Western Europe, and it seems that they occur also quite rarely in Byzantium. Parallels of the taquet fabric found in Derecske are known from Iran. Whereas there are evidence of silk finds throughout the whole of Europe, taquet silk remains absent in Western Europe or among the famous Viking finds in Northern Europe. All this suggests that Hungarians in the 10th century had access to different source(s) of silk — as there is no way that this material could be taken as booty from the western raids. REFEREnCES 1. Bollók, Á.T., Knok, M., Langó, P.E., Nagy, K., Türk, A.: “Textile Remnants in the Archaeological Heritage of the Charpathian Basin from the 10–11 century” in Acta Archaeologica Academiae Scientarum Hungaricae 60 (2009) 147−221. 2. Nagy K., Bíró Á., Bollók Á., Költő L., Türk A.: “Byzantine Silk Fragments from a Tenthcentury Grave at Fonyód. New Data on a Garment in the Tenth-century Carpathian Basin” in Ars Decorava 27 (2009) 21–49. 3. Berta N., Harangi F., Nagy K., Türk A.: “New Data to the Research on the 10th — Century Textiles from the Hungarian Conquest Period Cemetery at Derecske-Nagymeződűlő” in Hungarian Archaeology. E-Journal. 2018 Autumn, http://files.archaeolingua. hu/2018O/Upload/Turk_E183.pdf. 25 The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 23–29 September 2019 CoNTENTS PROGRAM 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 dode Zvezdana Textiles as a historical source . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Savenko S.N., Korobov D.S. The Great Silk Road in the North Caucasus . . . . . . . 14 Zhao Feng A Preliminary Study on the Chinese Textiles Found in Northern Caucasus Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 muthesius anna Silks from Moscevaia Balka and from related sites: mirrors of the ‘inter-mingling’ of extended Silk Road textile traditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Türk attila, harangi Flórián, nagy katalin Typology of the archaeological textile finds from the Hungarian Conquest Period (10th century AD) in the Carpathian Basin and their historical context . . . . . . . 24 annika Larsson, karolina Pallin Central Asian Silk Culture in Viking Age Scandinavia . . . . 26 . . . . 30 anne hedeager krag Byzantine and Oriental silks from a Royal Shrine in Denmark AD 1100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 aki arponen Asian silk, European fashion and African Saint . . . 36 ase Eriksen With silk for Valhall . . . . . . . 155 . . . . . . . . . The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. maria menshikova The Examples of Chinese Silk Textiles in the Hermitage collection: the Patterns, woven Characters and cut of the Objects as the historical Source . . . . . . . . 39 Tomomi murakami Study on textiles unearthed from the Tang-style tombs in Mongolia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 betty hensellek Balalyk Tepe and a Sartorial System of Central Eurasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Luk yu-ping Textile borders on paintings from Cave 17, Mogao Grottoes, Dunhuang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 xu wenyue Yuan and Ming Dynasty’s impact on Joseon Dynasty’s costume: Take costume excavated from Bian Xiu (邊脩，1447-1524)’s tomb as an example . . . . . . . . 51 wang Le Persian Silks in Chinese Contexts . . . . 55 Cai xin Further Study of the Mechanical Structure of Luo-ji-zi Recorded in Practice of Carpentry . . . . . . . . . . 59 keum, da woon Study on Textile and embroidery of <Embroidered incense pouch on complex gauze> housed by Woljeongsa Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Park kiChan A study on the techniques of the making golden threads which is used in the supplementary gold thread from the East Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 mao huiwei Comparative Study of Nasij and Jin Duan zi in Mongol and Yuan Dynasty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lee, hee-Jin The Restoration of Silk used in Kings’ Portraits in the Joseon Dynasty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 156 . . . . . . The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. ho Zhaohua The Research of Miao “Linx” Weaving Techniques and History among Qingshui River . . . . . . . . . . 78 angela Sheng Textiles as “Pattern Books”: Transmission of Motifs across Inner Asia in the First Millennium . . . . . . . . 81 kosuke goto Early silk samit and Indian ornaments: a case of bizarre plant composite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 kuang yanghua The Embroidered Patterns on a Carpet Unearthed from Noin-Ula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Poliakova Ekaterina Oriental motifs in Russian silk textiles of the second half of the 19th century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 orit Shamir and alisa baginski Mulham Textiles (silk warp with hidden cotton wefts) as a Historical Source . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Juliane von Fircks Gold Rush – Weaving, Giving and Selling Silks in the Rising Mongol Empire. Places of Production, Patterns of Distribution and Transport Routes in the 13th century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Irina Shingiray The Fabric of Diplomacy: A Mamluk (?) Tiraz in a Golden Horde Funerary Context . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Morris Rossabi Survival of Silk Roads, Late Ming and Early Qing . . . . . 108 Sim, yeon ok Tak Ui of Korean Buddhism made out of Chinese Dragon Robe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Su miao Artistic Features of Chinese Silk used by the Russian Flags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Su Lee Tsai and ho Zhaohua A Study of Political, Economical and Societal Influences on Qi-pao’s Materials and Style in Maritime Silk Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 157 . The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. Celetti david Kazakhstan Traditional Textiles. Tradition, Culture, and Modern Fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 alisa Saisavetvaree Foreign Textiles and Fashion at the Siamese court during 17th-19th century . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 masako yoshida Comparison of the Chinese and Japanese tapestries produced mainly in the 17th through 19th century and handed down in the Gion Festival of Kyoto . . . . . . . . 133 Shen Jie and wang Chen Suzhou Jacquard Chiffon Exported to Islamic Region in 20th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Fatima k. dzhigunova A collection of gold embroidery products in the funds of the National Museum of the Republic of Adygea . . . . . 138 Rakhima k. gochiyaeva History of Generation of Traditional Caucasian Costume. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Larisa gumova The basics of gold-embroidery art. Gold Sewing art of Circassians . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Sudha dhingra Cultural Journey of Indian Textiles: the Chamba Rumal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 aCKNoWLEDgmENTS The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT International Association «The Silk Road Textile Research» expresses its sincere gratitude to all those who provided material and humanitarian sponsorship support in organizing and conducting the 4th IASSRT Symposium: zagumennaya Tatyana anatolyevna, Deputy Head of the Administration of the resort city of Kislovodsk luzin sergej stepanovich, Director Kislovodsk Museum of Local History «Krepost» haji-Murat elkanov, Director of State Karachay-Cherkess Historical-Cultural and Natural Museum-Reserve Mussa Botashev, Head of the “Honey Falls” tourist complex Budarin yuri Pavlovich, Chairman of the Union of Designers of Russia, Stavropol Branch lebed elena Vladimirovna, Director of the “Secret weapon” Fashion Studio, Stavropol Doroshenko svetlana alekseevna, Director of “ART Tex” Design Studio, Stavropol 159 aCKNoWLEDgmENTS The 4th Symposium of IaSSRT igor akimovich lachinov, Deputy Director for Research of Kislovodsk Museum of Local History «Krepost» Golovanova elena Vladimirovna Deputy Director of the sanatorium "Krepost", Kislovodsk Polevich oleg Grigorievich Printing and Layout Designer hiteeva Madina Muratovna Artist LLС "Nasledie" Malyavko anton Valerevich Researcher LLС "Nasledie" imasheva Tatyana Dmitrievna, Accountant LLС "Nasledie" Babenkova Galina Pavlovna, Accountant LLС "Nasledie" Подписано в печать 15.05.2019. 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