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restaurant review

Eel Bar Has Become a Less Buzzy, Better Version of Itself

The kitchen’s confidence and ambition now match the dining room’s heat.
  1. outbreaks
    Bird Flu Is Wiping Out the City’s Duck SupplyA beloved Long Island farm has been forced to cull its entire flock.
  2. bars
    Who Can Make a Mocktail That Makes Money?Drinking is down. That’s a problem for bars that depend on high-margin booze to pay the bills.
  3. announcements
    Let New York Teach You What We Know BestIn our new subscriber-only newsletter series, New York Night School.
  4. rip
    André Soltner Was the Best Chef in New YorkHe was a titan of French cooking, but after his death this weekend, he’s being remembered for the example he set outside the kitchen.
  5. the grub street diet
    Henry Alford Must Be Supervised While Snacking“I’ll suprême a grapefruit until it looks naked and afraid.”
  6. first taste
    Everything About Gjelina’s Return Is QuietAfter a two-year closure, the California pizzeria is back. Why wasn’t its reopening a bigger deal?
  7. stop the presses
    Inside the Century Club, Elite Media’s Watering HoleWhy are so many journalists pressing to join?
  8. troubled waters
    The Tin Building Is a $200 Million Food-Hall FlopThe Jean-Georges Vongerichten megamarket is reportedly bleeding cash and shedding workers.
  9. underground gourmet
    A Big-Deal Pop-up Makes the Most of Its Tiny New HomeSunn’s is the permanent location for Banchan by Sunny.
  10. openings
    Pitt’s Offers Camp and Comfort in Red HookJeremy Salamon’s follow-up to Agi’s Counter is a “restaurant-themed restaurant”
  11. trendlet
    We’re Doing White Tablecloths Again“We deserve some nice things every once in a while.”
  12. the approval matrix
    The Approval Matrix: Beware Knockoff Bodega ZynOur guide to what’s highbrow, lowbrow, brilliant, and despicable.
  13. the grub street diet
    Broadway’s Helen J. Shen Warms Up Her Voice With Wontons“There are plenty of old wives’ tales about what to avoid eating before singing”
  14. outdoor leisure
    15 of the Very Best Water BottlesAlways be hydrating.
  15. openings
    World-Class Wontons Arrive in ManhattanMaxi’s Noodle is expanding to Mott Street.
  16. restaurant review
    Tao Goes Meat and PotatoesCrane Club has a talented chef, big-money backing, and a whiff of members-only exclusivity. Is that enough?
  17. five lines
    The Sando With a Side of Fried CrustThe new viral foods worth eating (and some that aren’t).
  18. food and drinks
    The Best Hot Sauces According to Cooks and Recipe DevelopersHot, not-so-hot, and everything (zingy, tingly, crunchy, herbaceous) in between.
  19. coming soon
    The Baker Who’s Building His Own Grain Mill in GowanusEinkorn croissants, Redeemer-wheat loaves, and more.
  20. who ate where
    Could 2025 Really Be Lure’s Last Year?The lease is almost up at John McDonald’s teak-lined Soho clubhouse.
  21. year in review
    20 Excellent Moments From a Year of Grub Street DietsFeaturing Vinson Cunningham, Joanna Goddard, Josh Johnson, and more.
  22. restaurant review
    Manuela Is a Farm-to-Table Gallery For Hungry CollectorsHauser & Wirth’s hospitality offshoot lands in Soho, with a Philip Guston on the wall and cream biscuits on the menu.
  23. guides
    Where to Eat in JanuaryThe best restaurants for right now.
  24. the approval matrix
    The Approval Matrix: Good Luck in 2025, Babe!Our guide to what’s highbrow, lowbrow, brilliant, and despicable.
  25. gifts
    The 120 Best E-Gift CardsNot only is it better than nothing, but they get to pick out something they actually want.
  26. underground gourmet
    This New Year’s Eve, Drink SakeIt’s celebratory, it’s slightly unexpected, and you can definitely find a great bottle with bubbles.
  27. the grub street diet
    Aria Aber Soothes Her Hangover With Mexican Korean Soup“Fountains of alcohol and cigarettes are on the horizon, winking at me.”
  28. reservations
    Can the Restaurant Reservation Anti-Piracy Act Finally Fix Reservations?The new law aims to ban reservation resellers. Enforcement will be difficult.
  29. underground gourmet
    The Rest of the Best Food I Ate This YearOur columnist revisits her old stories and offers a few new suggestions.
  30. year in review
    Grub Street’s 20 Most-Read Stories of 2024Dumplings, diners, a “missing” birthday cake, a wine-world grifter, and more.
  31. drinks
    Why Martinis Keep Getting DirtierThey’re beyond filthy at this point.
  32. the approval matrix
    The Approval Matrix: Are These Your Drones?Our guide to what’s highbrow, lowbrow, brilliant, and despicable.
  33. shondas
    Why Did Absolute Bagels Close?An Upper West Side landmark shutters and locals can’t believe it.
  34. the grub street diet
    Eli Zabar Does Not Scoop His Ice Cream“Keep skimming across the top; you don’t want to compress the air or deflate it. Don’t dig in — ever.”
  35. taste tests
    L&B Spumoni Gardens Is Finally Open in Dumbo. Is It Any Good?How do the Sicilian slices at the five-years-in-the-making expansion compare to the legendary Brooklyn original?
  36. where to eat
    All of Our ‘Where to Eat’ Picks, MappedWhether you’re looking for the Bed-Stuy spot with the great calamari salad, or latke-crusted sea bass in Hell’s Kitchen, we’ve got you covered.
  37. underground gourmet
    There’s a Secret Ippudo in BrooklynAt Ippudo V, expect no line — and no meat.
  38. year in review
    21 High Points From a Year of OvereatingThe best new dumplings, doughnuts, “Cwunch Waps,” and more.
  39. year in review
    The Absolute Best New Restaurants of 2024In a year of great eating, these ten spots got everything right.
  40. the grub street diet
    Youngmi Mayer Is Always Sneaking Bites“90 percent of my job is trying to surreptitiously eat food and drink wine, then being yelled at for it.”
  41. announcements
    Read Grub Street on the Excellent New York AppA new way to read Grub Street — and everything else from New York’s family of sites.
  42. not closing
    Noma Was Supposed to Close in 2024. That’s Definitely Not Happening.The announcement was splashy, but the plans have fizzled. Some doubt René Redzepi planned to close at all.
  43. underground gourmet
    A Mocktail for Wine SnobsCafe Mado cracks the code on “non-alcs.”
  44. closings
    Ugly Baby Is Moving OnIt isn’t just one of the city’s best Thai spots; it’s among its most important.
  45. experts
    He’s Got What It Takes to Make the Best Pizza on Planet EarthDan Richer has spent decades chasing the perfect margherita. At his Jersey City pizzeria, he’s getting closer.
  46. guides
    Where to Eat in DecemberThe best restaurants for right now.
  47. closings
    Buttermilk Channel, a Twee Brooklyn Landmark, Is ClosingThe last day for cheddar waffles and warm lamb salad is December 31.
  48. the approval matrix
    The Approval Matrix: Wicked Legal AdulteryOur guide to what’s highbrow, lowbrow, brilliant, and despicable.
  49. five lines
    Who Wants to Eat Fettuccine Alfredo on the Sidewalk?One discerning critic endures five social-media-fueled crowds to see what TikTok food is actually worth the hype.
  50. openings
    The Big-Money, Big-Macher Restaurant Is BackNew spots like Crane Club and La Tête d’Or take a mid-aughts approach to indulgence.
More Articles

Openings

World-Class Wontons Arrive in Manhattan
World-Class Wontons Arrive in Manhattan

Guides

Where to Eat in January
Where to Eat in January